Satellite
Show on map
  • Day 28

    Rabal del Camino to Molinaseca

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After so much time on the meseta, it is hard to imagine hills again, but today on our 25 km walk there were no shortage of hills.

    The day began with a steady climb for about 7 km to Cruz de Ferro followed by a 15km + descent into Molinaseca. While we climbed 400 meters in the morning, by the time we arrived in Molinaseca we have lost nearly 1000 meters. Though it was over at least 15 km, in many spots it was steep, and for the most part a rough trail of granite/slate rocks. A wee bit tricky. For those of you who know the Outlook hike at Predator, as you reach the top and then the first part of the descent, it is very similar but for 15 km! Very hard. I feel a bit beat up after today's hike, combined with quite a bit of sun/heat. I am thankfully no worse for wear, but I have to be so vigilante about me feet. I stopped about 3 km in, and retaped, and reset my socks etc. because it wasn't quite right, and I knew I would pay dearly if I didn't deal with it sooner rather than later. You would all be very surprised how it is possible to hike in the same shoes, and be four weeks in, and still be combatting new blisters, and healing old ones.

    Today is a special day though. Cruz de Ferro began its life a pagan temple where because it is the highest point on the pilgrimage Frances, for 2500 years people have been leaving a rock token at this oak tree stump that in later years was adorned by a cross having been adopted as a Christian rite. Today, there are many opinions of the Cruz de Ferro ranging from it is an eyesore and a dump to a significant ritual on the passage of the Camino. Last night at church at 9:30 pm, the priest blessed the rocks that were to be left. (9:30 is definitely my bed time, so my sacrifices are not blessed), but it was regardless of whether this is only a pagan ritual, I felt rewarded when I left my stones.

    I carried my two stones for over 500km with the sole purpose of leaving them. I was reluctant. As I stood before this ancient monument surrounded by the stones of the others who left their mark, a person is reminded of the burdens carried by all people. The people 2500 years ago carried their burdens and left them to their god in this spot. Today, the steady stream of pilgrims arrive in this place, all having brought and sought freedom from the burdens they carry. When you stand upon this small mountain, and you add to it your burdens, I like to believe that the prayers and faith all who crossed this mountain path, pray with you and you pray for them.

    I am lighter because I acknowledged that which burdens me, and even, if for a day, with God's love, I felt a moment of reprieve. It lasted all day...and for that I am thankful.
    Read more