Thukla back to Pheriche

Elevation - 4240 m

Unfortunately, the toxic air brew wreaked havoc on my lungs and I spent most of the night coughing. Between the coughing and the trips to the toilet, I got very little sleep. I developed a headache and it hurt to take a breath. I was out of breath just getting dressed and tying my boots.

I only had one more night to get through before I saw base camp but I just didn't think I could do it. I was worried about getting really sick in the middle of the night when nothing could be done. I had read information on altitude sickness and you can get sick really quickly. When I weighed it all out, I decided to give up on making it to base camp, go back to Pheriche and see the doctor again.

It was a very difficult decision and I cried when I said goodbye. This has been a dream of mine since I was in my 20s and it was very hard to let it go but I didn't think it was fair to let myself get so sick that I would now be a problem for the rest of the group. I had said to myself before the trip that I would try not to pin the success of the trip solely on making it to base camp. I wanted to appreciate all the experiences along the way so that if I didn't make it, the trip wouldn't be a total loss. I was trying to channel my inner monk but was finding that very difficult and to tell truth I was totally pissed off at the world.

After my teary goodbyes, Santos, one our porters, carried my bag and helped me down to Pheriche. Jon had left his bag at Thukla and the plan was that Santos would take me down then go back up to Thukla, get Jon's bag and join them in Lobuche. As we descended, I started to feel marginally better. My breathing was easier and I wasn't having so much trouble getting my breath.

Bijay had sent a note with Santos which he gave to the proprietor of the Himalayan Hotel. It was too early to check in so I left my bag at the hotel and went to the medical centre. Santos explained my situation and then I sent him on his way back to Thukla. I saw a young Australian doctor who checked me out. I wasn't sick enough to be helicoptered out but he did think I would feel a lot better if I went down another 500 metres. Unfortunately, there was no way I could manage all my crap in my condition and I no way of letting the group know where I was. I decided to stay.

A few days earlier, we had discussed the possibility of hiring a helicopter to take us from base camp to Lukla instead of walking down. After some discussion, we all agreed that we would do this. With the air at Everest base camp being so thin, our group would have to be shuttled two or three at a time to Pheriche (a happy coincidence) where we would then all climb aboard for the rest of the trip to Lukla. So the new plan was that I would stay in Pheriche for two nights and they would pick me up on the way down.

After seeing the doctor, I checked in. I asked for a room with a toilet and got a queen size bed and a bathroom with a functioning (mostly) western toilet and, luxury of luxuries, a sink and mirror!!!

The manager led me up to a lovely warm sunroom and brought me some hot lemon and toast and peanut butter. I then took advantage of the hot showers, put on some clean clothes and went back to the sunroom so my hair could dry. I had an afternoon nap and later in the dining room was able to take a call from Jon. I ate supper and visited with a young woman we had met earlier on the trail and then spent the evening sitting around the dining room stove chatting with some lovely young travellers.

The next day after breakfast I had a walk around the village, watched helicopters coming and going and then spent the afternoon reading and catching up on this blog. I'm bored but feeling much better and ready to be moving on. I just hope the weather cooperates and I can get out of Pheriche tomorrow.Read more