The Nomads of the Steppe

We’re writing this on Sunday evening after a magical day in the Gobi. This morning we set off at 8am from Camp 2 towards our next overnight destination Goviin Anar (we will call it Camp 3) - a journey of around 120 km, all off-road.

NK had told us that at some stage on the journey he would select a nomadic Ger settlement and head off the track to allow us to see what life is like for the nomadic people. He explained that the nomads were always welcoming to guests and told us that these days most nomads have a summer and winter camp which are fixed Gers that they leave in place all year and move between the two in May and October. In past times the nomads would move their Gers from site to site.

After a couple of hours drive across the Steppe we saw a Ger, however when we got there we could see that the nomads were working around 400 yards away from their home so NK decided to move on.

When we came across the next encampment (they appear around very 5km or so) we struck gold. There were two Gers and a herd of horses milling around close by. When we stopped the vehicle NK spoke to a man standing in the doorway who was happy to welcome us - after he had secured one of his dogs who he told NK might attack us!

We went into the Ger and there were four men eating noodles from bowls. The three year old son of the owner was also there and was fascinated by us (NK said he may never have seen a westerner before). Their wives were all out some distance away tending to the goat and sheep herds whilst the men had work to undertake with the horses. The Ger was extremely basic and as could be expected in the middle of the Gobi had no running water or mains electricity.

We were asked to sit on what was obviously the owners bed (everyone else sat on the floor) and as is customary with the arrival of guests in Mongolia a large bowl of fermented mares milk was circulated for everyone to sip from. This is an alcoholic beverage and the main money earner for this encampment. Yes they make booze from milking horses! It actually tasted OK and was followed by a small bowl each of cows milk tea and goats cheese sweets which was also acceptable. We would have loved to show the inside of the Ger but felt it was too intrusive to take any photos.

The nomads then left the Ger to set out on their work and we followed, first checking with NK that we were following the correct protocols. NK spoke to the men who said that they had to separate and catch two horses from the herd. The owner saddled and mounted what was obviously his tethered horse and took up a long pole with a looped rope on the end.

He then rode in amongst the herd of horses and what we then witnessed was exhilarating as he selected a horse he wanted to secure and then a chase commenced. The horsemanship and control was amazing as at some speed he chased down his selection, which ran frantically around the herd and sometimes through it. Once he had managed to secure the loop around it’s neck it still took some time to settle the captive down until it reached a point when one of the other men could gather the horse and tether it. This was repeated until the two captured horses and his own were tied in a line.

At this stage the voyeurs wondered why these two horses had been selected. If you are eating your breakfast please read this later! NK was told that these two horses had been selected for castration which would take place later that morning. Some people from the nearest large town, Dalanzadgad, would be travelling out for lunch and guess what? Their lunch would be a great Mongolian tradition of raw horse testicles served still warm from the body.

We decided not to hang around to watch this process progress, however we did witness something quite special as the owners son was then made ready to ride out with his father to check how the women were getting on with the other animals. He was quickly changed into appropriate clothing and took his bridle to a horse that had already been prepared with a small saddle. He and his father then mounted and the pair of them headed away from the settlement across the Steppe. Hard to believe he is only 3 yet looking so comfortable on a horse. NK is certain that this child’s grandfather, great grandfather and many more past generations will have been master horseman on the Gobi.

We left feeling very privileged to have spent time here. This was not tourism in the normal sense, just a chance to see life as it has been led for centuries and it is quite hard to believe that thousands of families in Mongolia are still living in this way.

We have some good video of this but can’t post it yet due to our remote location.

Leaving the settlement we drove towards Camp 3 to arrive in time for lunch and had to go through a mountain pass to get there. NK said there was a chance to see Ibex there (large mountain antelope with huge horns) and our driver spotted a group of about a dozen high up on rocks some distance away. We got out to look and than another tour vehicle pulled up. One of the people in the van was a westerner wearing full camouflage gear (jacket, trousers and hat) who introduced himself as Larry from San Francisco. He certainly didn’t lack self-confidence and passed John his high powered binoculars to look at the Ibex. He told John that they were exactly 475 metres away and he knew that because there is a range finder on these binoculars that he uses when he goes hunting! We immediately had a downer on him for that, particularly as Janet then heard him proudly boast that he had shot Ibex previously. His vehicle (containing him, his guide and a driver) then developed a mechanical problem and wouldn’t start. As much as we would have like to have left them stranded (especially him after his hunting boast!) we had to give them a push to get them going.

We then continued through the pass to Camp 3 where lunch and a beautiful old fashioned Ger awaited us. We were told to expect an interesting afternoon......Read more