John Bickerstaff

John Bickerstaff

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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Back on the bike
April 13, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Formal lessons done (until next time) things were a little more relaxed. A rather grey run along the beach suggested the weather wasn't going to be upto much. The plan was to take the bike out & check all was well - the rest were off for churos which would have been nice but deep fried donut type stuff wasn't an option. An short losener around town taking in some of the sights and the local stadium. Obligatory club shirt bought, headed back via the supermarket & beachside picnic. Pondered next option - the sun was trying it's best & the forecast suggested rain was very unlikely so decided to explore the local coast to the west. The nearby lighthouse offered a nice coastal walk. From there it was 7 miles to a little cove that was supposedly nice. A couple of miles in a the first drops (sporadically) began to fall. Decided to push - how bad could it get? Another little coastal walk and by the time I got back dark clouds were looming & the spits & spots had become a light drizzle. Time to hurry back & it was a race I was to lose. Not by much though - a mile or so off. Dried up & ensured I missed the Flamenco lessons. Had a really nice fish menu of the day.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Sunshine at last.
April 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Morning run, though not Ipanema, was the closest so far - beachside run with some hint of sunshine ... promising. A late final lesson (11.30) left time for a little relaxing in the sunshine & little walk along the beach. Following another verb frenzy there was the obligatory sociable meal which was tolerated - went for the light options to see if that helped - my stomach rather than my inherent anti-social instincts. Got ripped off & still insisted on leaving a tip - clearly my influence didn't carry any weight. Had a little walk around Magdalena Peninsula - admiring the views & the former royal summer residence.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Spanish & octopus.
April 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
A full day of lessons through till 8 looked like hard work at tge best of times let alone with a hangover. An early start wasn't ideal either. Battled through gamely - verbs & adjectives don't help a headache. Downtime was hindered by torrential rain. Tried translating the local paper's match report but that hurt my brain a bit too much. Eventually honework was set & the day was done. Into town for food except everyone had eaten so just me - had some octopus liberally coated with olive oil & paprika.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
We've conquered all of Europe...
April 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
Things started to get a little intense - talk of prepositions, adjectives & sentence structure. That said at least it wasn't the advanced group looking at subjunctive and imperative verbs. Anyway a late start meant a short run was possible - a vain attempt to clear my head. Cause of said roughness was unclear - rich food yesterday, odd eating times, lack of sleep from being woken up numerous times or nerves (big game) who can say but the run didn't help vastly & it rained. While out pondered how to ask for a room change in Spanish. Got back & went for it. Made myself understood, initial response of room number - ✔ & then it went downhill from there. She ended up speaking English. I tried. Not a problem moving rooms. Having a bike in my room - big problem. That sorted off to lessons. As stated - hard work. Opted out of the big lunch option - sarnie, strawberry picnic by the sea option & the sun came out. Back for the methodology session - posh way of saying games, songs and stories you can use to teach Spanish. Then to the main event - bar had been located - went early to bag prime spots. Great football, allbeit epically stressful. Too much beer consumed, got told off for being too rowdy & got free snacks oh & Liverpool beat the champions elect to get into the semi final of the European cup.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Hassling Spanish strangers
April 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Early start - lessons due to start at 8. Breakie was only due to start at 7.30 so that was 30 mins of face filling - a little torment thrown in for good measure - vast swathes of cakes, donuts & pastries, eggs & bacon etc - all not an option. Basic survival Spanish & pronunciation upto 11. Suprisingly no headache. Off for lunch en-masse. Along the way keeping eyes peeled for candidate bars for match night viewing. On arrival the tutor collored the waiteress & though I don't know I reckon it was along the lines of don't you dare speak English to them...
Huge 3 course lunch - avoided the wine but the richness of the food was likely to cause a headache. If that didn't being sociable in the treasure hunt was going to do for me. All schools were split up & given clues to find around Santander, a number of which involved speaking to locals. All well and good if you have someone a little more fluent - we did not. Our stronger speakers opted out due to mobility issues... cue some really bad conversational Spanish which relied on their English. Despite this & a colleague being a Manc it was a pleasant walk exploring the town. Needless to say we didn't win. Got soaked on the way back & dived in the bar. Most groups did this some more extensively than others. Opted out of the evening tapas - headache...Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Arrival
April 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
Delayed flight wasn't great and glimpses of the terrain I'd be traversing later on also didn't help but having been here before it can't be said I wasn't aware. Bike picked up & a few quizical looks from the other students. Onwards to the bus. The look from the bus driver wasn't quizical - slightly less positive. On arrival the chaos of allocating rooms & unpacking - not a big job for me. Briefing followed along with painful get to know you activity - blew it with a few by admitting to eating guinea pig - cruel man. That done - tea and one of the curtest waiters. Hurrying orders, forgetting orders, dropping food on me & not giving me an extra roll - not great for 24€.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
My kingdom for a plug.
August 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
First priority was some shopping - Liz was not impressed. Sleeping tablets & a case for my phone. Got the tablets but my phone will have to manage. Headed to the area for river cruises. Wanted to do an architecture cruise but the company we opted for did a river and lake cruise for the same price - no choice. Especially since it was going in 5 mins rather than hang around for 35 mins. Set off and our guide who claimed dubiously to look like Sean Connery proceeded to educate us about the buildings of Chicago - some of the bizarre shapes had architectural reasons. Headed out to the lake - bit windy. The windy city after all - though the nickname is down to the early politicians rather than the climate. Got some good views of the city. Every time the guide said he'd leave us for a few mins he thought of something else to tell us about Chicago. Very proud guy. Had a sarnie when back on dry land. Quick detour to the bean and fountains and then back to the hostel. The train back was packed - Tokyo packed. Getting 2 backpacks on was going to be a challenge. Fortunately by the time we were back at the station things were quieter. Good job as they say. Off to O'hare & the quest to find a plug - battery in dire need of charging (5%) & the phone was my main source of entertainment on the plane. Failing that it'll be old school - book & sleeping tabs to Manchester.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Millenium arty stuff.
August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Once back on terra firma we made our way to the Millenium Park. Site of the Cloud Gate or as it is more commonly known the bean - or at least we were calling it that. Just in the entrance however was another piece of 'art' two monolithic stacks of glass bricks with projections of faces on. The sides were fountains and every now and then the faces would purse their lips and a fountain would shoot out. The kids were loving it. It was funny to watch. And cooling to paddle around as well. The big kid wanted to have a go but it would've been just a bit embarrassing. The bean was just as interactive but on a more surreal level. Every photo of it was on some level a selfie and as the official title suggests the sky is an integral part of the reflection. Underneath the distortioned images were quite wild. Again the poses people were incorporating were something else...Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Finally got her on a bike.
August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
After a massive sarnie in the park we headed to the nearby bike hire centre. Liz had been convinced / badgered into taking a cycle along the lakeside trail. No cars and allegedly beaches & swimming along the way, not that the swimming was persuasive. Once the bikes were sorted we made our way down to the lake. At the first opportunity I was on the bike - Liz was less sure - cycling wasn't allowed in the Millenium Park & while we weren't actually in the park she maintained it was dodgy. Pah! She got talking to a local as I sped off & he confirmed cycling on the pavement was something you could get a ticket for. Anyway the law didn't get me and we made our way along the lake. Past beaches and swimming areas. Obviously it had to be done & while it felt & looked like a sea there wasn't the salty taste. Very refreshing. Carried on towards Montrose Beach & point - supposedly good views of the city. Once out there it was hard to imagine it was part of the city & that it was on a lake not the seaside. Headed back in a laid back pace but eventually it dawned that the bike rental place would close at some point so ended up having to get a wriggle on. Cycled on the pavement, much to Liz's concern. Got back and they were starting to pack up. Phew. Opted to stay out for tea rather than go back. Thai - always a safe bet.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Up in the clouds.
August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
What with a good forecast today and a more dubious one tomorrow it seemed prudent to try and do the stuff that benefits from clear skies. That meant a trip up the Sears Tower - formerly the tallest building in the world. Warnings of 30 min queues were unfounded though I think I'd preferred that to being stuck in a lift with a pair of toffs - so wanted to punch them. The views as expected were great - apparently 4 states can be seen on a clear day & when you know where to look. The sky ledge was fun - a glass ledge suspending you 103 floors above Chicago. Some of the stunts people were pulling - handstands & all I could muster - sitting down. As you made your way down you passed through 3 different tat shops - it wasn't as if they'd got enough out of you already.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Big city culture shock.
August 29, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
After struggling to locate the baggage reclaim - by the time we'd found it, ours were circling around relatively lonely & unaccompanied. Got the subway to our cunningly hidden hostel - the sign being inside the door on the wall - was getting a little worried. Checked into a rather industrial looking room with distant views of high rise Chicago. Oh boy - this is going to be a world away from Cooke City - we were in a proper city. Unpacked to find for the 2nd time homeland security had been rifling through my bag. The least they could do would be to repack with a bit of care - 2 of my pilfered shower gels had burst. How dare they! Did a bit of reading up on the place & made a plan. Since we were a bit later than anticipated this afternoon was just a get acquainted exercise, oh and get some Chicago deep dish pizza down us - no lunch after all. Gino's was the option to go for by all accounts & pretty filling they are supposed to be. Got in without a queue & were told the wait was about 45 mins - freshly baked ... and you buy starters because of that. Got some beers & handily the starter we would've ordered came with them - happy hour. The pizza eventually rolled up & to be fair it looked a bit puny. Anything but - 1 slice was fine the 2nd was a battle. I was done. Losing it. Needed a substantial walk. Went along the river past Orange Don's OTT ego massaging tower. The Wrigley building though far smaller was far more ornate and striking. Understated yet beautiful. Carried on down to the lakeside via toilets. Ahhh. Midges aside, a very nice walk.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
SLC ish
August 29, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Not much other than the usual bizarre setups at the petrol station - pay before you buy - I don't know how much... And returning the car - a substantial one way fee which both clerk & rental agent assured me was just a hold on my card - don't know what you are talking about. Dropped off bags to find that our seats were allocated at the gate. A nervous flyer got a little more jittery, more so when we saw the size of the plane. Strangely the gang plank means of boarding wasn't a problem. Holed out at the boarding desk until the clerk could assure me of seats together. That was a relief. Then to throw salt in the wound there were mechanical issues - 30 min delay & worries. It will be fine.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Should've flown.
August 28, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Finished off all manner of bits & pieces including the butter, which had been with us since day 1 at Tillamook. It was emotional. We were heading for a drive that Ranger Jeff had recommended as good for wildlife. The initial impressions were not good - busy road, fenced off farmland & ski resort - none of which screamed classic wildlife viewing. Things became a little quieter & more promising once in the park. Wildlife was likely, seeing it was another thing. Gravel track came & went, a couple of stops but nothing other than a couple of squirrels. Decided to try the other option but via the visitor station - cereal & 1 litre of orange juice = waz-athon / regular toilet stops. Suitably relieved we pushed on to a riverside location good for moose. 5 screaming kids chucking rocks into said river put paid to that one. Quick stop at the toilet & back to Jackson via the visitor centre. Going over the bridge & a number of people were brandishing cameras. Quickly pulled over to see moose & moosette crossing the river to an island for a peaceful bite to eat. At least we'd seen something. Onwards & upwards, literally - the aerial tram upto Rendezvous Peak. A quick walk up there & lunch. That would have to do us for the Tetons. The top of the world hike did feel like that. Still some snow up here and plenty of paragliders - looked so peaceful & graceful - something to think about. Had our packed lunch with a spectacular view of the Snake River which has been a constant companion from Oregon to the end.
The cable car ride down was 12 mins - pretty long & gave some great views of deer and the maintenance engineer we stopped to pick up - they rode on the roof down. Not one for someone with vertigo. Then the small matter of getting to Salt Lake City. 5 hours in a car didn't really appeal. Much less when it dawned that the vast majority was endless farmland. Still once at the motorway it would be plain sailing. Err except when we got there the sliproad was closed. OK follow on to the next junction & it was open or so it seemed. Entered the motorway to find we were on a rough lane with gravel & the rest of the traffic was on the other carriageway. Concerning. Would the rozzers collar me again. Eventually the roadworks finished & whether we'd done something wrong or not we merged & went on our way. Aside from lunatic drivers in & around SLC - the speed limit being seen as the bare minimum & lane markings as a vague guide. We made it to the hotel in one piece. No more peace & quiet - Chicago's going to be busy & noisy!Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Lazy Day.
August 27, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
A combination of fatigue, irritation with roadworks & a headache prompted a rather more laid back day. Oh and that made it substantially easier to follow the Mighty Reds trounce the Arse. That improved the mood. Had a wander into town to try to find somewhere open that sold painkillers that didn't necessitate a drive. Ended up at the National Elk Refuge information centre - turns out August is completely the wrong time to visit. From the empty plains outside our hotel - I think we'd figured that one. Sat outside to regroup & were cornered by on old guy just itching for a conversation - picked that we were English - accents or he was a closet football fan. Anyway he proceded to ramble on about Geordie slang, where he'd been in the UK, global warming, forest fires... Nice guy but we were baking & needed shade. Headed back and chilled on the balcony & read. After Liz had a doze we took a drive out to the Mormon Row - a series of buildings built by the early settlers to Jackson Hole. They have been preserved and / or are still in use and are often used as photogenic foreground for the Tetons. Who am I to argue. Made a pleasant little walk. Continued onwards to Jenny Lake where the dramatic nature of the Tetons became more apparent. Most mountain ranges have foothills but not here - they rise up startlingly from the plains. Annoyingly we got there and discovered a beach - no swimmies. Still a nice walk and back to pack - lots to do tomorrow and a long drive into the bargain. God knows what time we'll hit SLC.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Thank God for self-catering.
August 26, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Once the roadworks were in the rear view mirrors the mountains of the Grand Teton National Park became an unavoidable spectacle. It seemed every 5 minutes there was a lookout to admire a slightly different view - with Jackson Lake in the foreground, with flood terracing, with Mormon barns ...
Admittedly whichever you chose the picture would be amazing. Unfortunately the one chosen had no facilities at all - need the toilet. The visitor centre was the obvious next choice & it didn't let us down. In to the bargain there was a presentation of what the Tetons had to offer. The friendly rangers provided ample maps, advice on walks, parking issues... Checked in at our accommodation - very nice & self catering. Chilled & then faced the prospect of shopping. When put in the context of saving a dollop of cash it became more appealing. The sour faced cashier, having dealt with a weird yank, suddenly cheered up when seeing my Hadjuk Split top - he was from Serbia. There's no love lost between the 2 countries but clearly he was itching to talk football in this country of heathens. Then he drops the bombshell - when finding out we were from Liverpool he added, that his team was Manchester - could be bad, could be shameful - United. Oh dear. He appologised - I jokingly said he should be - I wasn't joking. Nice to talk to someone who appreciates the good things in life - even if they've made some bad life choices. Anyway, breakfast & tea were sorted for the next 2 days. Result. Little look around town - arches of antlers & the National Elk Reserve - curious. Jackson seems a very typical ski resort town. Nice enough though.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Leaving is so hard to do.
August 26, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
After the geo-thermal theme yesterday, it was hoped that today would be focussed on wildlife. Spend a bit of time watching & admiring and then the joys of the trek to Jackson. All the best laid plans and all that. While we had plenty of Bison fun - they owned that road! Couple of them ambled past & you could fully appreciate their size. Unfortunately we struggled to find a suitable spec to settle down in & when we did there was nothing to see. Another couple were in for the duration - chairs, food & drinks. Decided to push onto Hayden Valley - the other supposed hotspot for wildlife. Unfortunately it is far closer to the park resorts & West Yellowstone. It was rammed. Lots of Bison & lots of tourists. Off to the lake & find a nice spot for lunch. First try was blighted by a monstrous hotel taking over the entire lake front. Took a lakeside drive to no avail. Ended up at West Thumb Geyser Basin, which was on the lake. Only catch was, that you couldn't take food down to the lake shore - eh! My downbeat mood took a turn for the worse as we headed out of Yellowstone. We were stopped by a worker under the pretext of roadworks. Proceeded to sit there for 20 mins until we were given an escort to the next queue. No sign of roadworks. Another 15 mins & another escort through non-existent roadworks - just a final mile of resurfacing. Not happy. Hopefully Grand Teton National Park would cheer me up.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
A mega volcano beneath our feet.
August 25, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Dare we brave the tourist trap that is 'Old Faithful' - there would be toilets but would there be parking? The alternative we had was to park up-stream from old faithful & walk down to our planned geyser - riverside. As we drove down it became clear that the alternative route had no facilities to speak of, so into the hands of the tourist trap. We reasoned that with a hotel & visitor centre parking would be more like Mammoth than Prismatic Spring. And so it proved - dual carriageway in & vast swaths of parking. The issue would be remembering where the car was. Once toileted we headed to the visitor centre to get an update on predicted eruptions. It looked like Old Faithful was going to blow within 40 mins & would leave us 30 mins to get to Riverside, assuming everything went to plan. All timings had degrees of error so probably not then. Anyway settled down on one of the many benches surrounding Old Faithful along with the masses and had lunch & were entertained by Ranger Jeff, his stories and explanations of geysers & their inner workings. Passed the time until she blew & impressive it was too. In Iceland the geyser we saw lasted a matter of seconds. Here it was minutes & many of them at that. This is the most volcanic area in the world after all. Apparently 500 of the 900 geysers that exist in the world are in Yellowstone. Hot footed it down the river to Riverside Geyser & got a far more natural version - 100 as opposed to 1000 watching & a river and forest for background. You could hear the rumbling as it erupted this time. Took the scenic route back via all manner of weirdly named hot springs & geysers. Handily we got back just as you know who was erupting again. Took our time heading off as everyone else seemed to be making a beeline for their cars - not many walkers then. Once escape was made, we made our way back to base via the artists paint pots, a geyser basin so named because of the range of colours. It also had some bubbling mud areas. Took a bit of finding & ignored the oncoming thunderstorm but bubbling mud was located along with warnings of flying mud. Guess who got splatted?Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Yet another wow.
August 25, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Early start in order to try & avoid a major worry - with heading towards Yellowstone's major draws, how do we avoid the consequent major traffic chaos that we witnessed on Wednesday? The added bonus was the increased likelihood of seeing wildlife. Not long in to the park & we were rewarded with a traffic jam. People were just stopping & blocking the road. This suggested more than just a nice view. In fact we were treated to wolfie wolfing down his brekkie. How anyone spotted him is anyone's guess - superbly camouflaged. Pushed on & was a little more jumpy about the traffic - the roads were getting busier & we'd been delayed by wolfie. Our projected arrival time had slipped to around 10:45 - not good. As we approached numerous plumes of steam could be seen in the distance & the delightful smell of sulphur became far more common. As it turned out there was barely a queue for the lower basin and spaces still available for the hike to view the Grand Prismatic Spring from above. I was happy. The walk was pretty easy - past smaller hot springs and through meadows. A short climb and then the spring in all its glory. A sight that the boardwalk could never really provide. Stunning, as so many things have been over the last 4 weeks. The ladies from yesterday recommended continuing to the falls and the subsequent geyser but excess fluid consumption at breakfast dictated otherwise... The toilet was calling.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Out of this world.
August 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
One of the recommendations was Mammoth Springs - in fairness we were planning on going anyway but they were adamant it was well worth it. So as the rain drops started to fall we headed off. As the mountainous formations came in to sight, so did the sun. Timed that one well. Amazingly, though it was clearly busy, we found some parking. Was this going to be a chunner free day? Stopped off at the visitor centre - a few interesting bits & pieces. Bought a card for Aidan & Alice - only $2.99 (it was a jigsaw) had my change ready except that didn't include tax. You have no idea how much things are. Ludicrous. It's not even consistent - Walmart & petrol stations price with tax. Anyway chunnered to her & then Liz - neither having any power to do anything & then when buying postcards 3 for $1 - no $1.06 ... Liz has the patience of a saint or selective hearing. Began the walk up the calcite formations created by the Mammoth Springs only to be stopped by a crowd - watching something - apparently a snake - a big snake. Some guy said it was harmless but eats rattlesnakes - not sure how that stacks up. Steps led us upwards to a range of steadily more intricate plateaus created by the hot spring deposits. Each and every time it seemed you were in a steadily more weird & other worldly place. The heat was quite oppressive combined with the sun & shelter from the wind. The further along, the fewer coach parties there were which suited us nicely. The finale was like some alien cross of an epically iced cake and a snowy neon mountain. Downhill all the way for a cold drink. Called it a day & started the 90 min drive back. Bad driving aside (which is becoming the normal expectation) we got back to the hotel just as the heavens opened. Quick dash across the road for take away pizza.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Bison blockage
August 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
In order to avoid the mammoth queues of yesterday the bullet was bitten & an early start was the order of the day. Bakery breakfast and lunch bags bought. We were all set. Plan was to head out to the Lamar Valley - good for wildlife spotting particularly in the morning. See what was occurring & then try a walk in that area. Once in the park, what was occuring was a slow moving bison in the middle of the road. And nothing was for moving it. Waited patiently - couldn't see what was coming the other way & when stuff did it got pretty jumpy. Eventually it did move to the side so we could squeeze past. Further down the valley there were significant amounts of people all looking at something - rude not to investigate. Turns out to be some wolves (black not Warrington ones) on the prowl. Eventually picked one out. Bit noisy so we pushed on to Slough Creek trailhead. On the way more bison & what looked like a hunt but was in fact some calves messing around. The supposedly flat walk turned out to have a substantial climb at the start - still the breaks gave us chance to admire the views & wildlife - marmots, deer, pronghorns & woodpecker. Nice & peaceful - a good walk away from it all - this was more like it. A sociable group of ladies agreed & passed on some tips. A few bison were off in the distance but nothing closer & certainly nothing of the dangerous category - bears & wolves. Returned avoiding being run over by the excursion carts and made it back for lunch just as the thunder began.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Boiling point...
August 23, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
While I had a pool and while my leg was still uncomfortable to run on, it would have been rude not to have a morning swim despite the unforeseen issue of it being cloudy. The forecast talked of stray showers & storms. Where have they strayed from - Manchester. Can't blame them really. The small matter of 200 more miles, around half of which were in Yellowstone. Double edged sword - yes far more scenic & interesting but slow speed limits & the possibility of traffic jams (car park queues & wildlife issues) Aside from lunatic juggernaut drivers the drive to the park passed easily enough - the queues to get into the park didn't bode well though. Pulled in at the first information place - didn't have a lot of info though - weather & geyser eruption forecasts. Decided, while it was sunny to head to the Grand Prismatic Spring, which looked pretty cool. That was until we were half a mile away from the car park & the queue to park started. Busy doesn't come close. The main issue though was when people were getting to the car park they just stopped & waited for a spot. We got lucky after what seemed like ages. We followed the hoardes - the springs were very bright & colourful and the heat kicked out was quite striking. The wind had got up & clouds of steam were obscuring the view & annoyingly I couldn't see how you could get up to the hill for an overview. Decided with the way the traffic was to call it a day & head for the lodge. Except the wildlife wasn't co-operating. A glut of cars signalled a sighting - a coyote skulking in the distance. A little further on we saw elk & deer - one just casually crossing the road. And after a rain filled ascent of Dunravin Pass we descended to the Lamar Valley to be greeted by herds of Bison roaming on the road & causing traffic chaos. This type we didn't mind. Eventually rolled into Cooke City (it's not) at around 5.30 and our host did a superb job of making us welcome - detailed recommendations and stories - could barely get a word in edgeways. The Bear Tooth Cafe got the nod Liz loving her teriyaki chicken almost as much as her huckleberry cream soda. I had Chilli.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Another set of falls.
August 22, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 30 °C
We rolled up at our motel to find things we'd begun to take for granted weren't necessarily so. No microwave & fridge. No free wifi. But there was a pool - that pacified me but Liz was hungry. Bit the bullet & had a burger at McDonalds - no chips - almost 4 weeks in the states & still no chips. Walked to the museum past the town's namesake falls - not quite as impressive as yesterdays. The town however was more pleasant. Headed to the museum which had an exhibition on space to tie in with the eclipse - for Idaho Falls was in the path of totality. Some interesting stuff - a camera that went to the moon, a number of samples of moon rock & some fun interactive stuff. Some info on the new innovative Orion capsule NASA are developing that looks uncannily like a Saturn V Apollo. Cutting-edge. Some local history which was curious. Came back via the Japanese garden on an island in the middle of the Snake River. Peaceful considering it was by a main road. Impressively it was all created by volunteers.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Hot stuff.
August 22, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 28 °C
200 miles or so of driving. A supposedly closed stretch of motorway pushed us towards an alternative route which went via the Craters of the Moon National Park. Sounded a suitable stop off - some walks & a markedly different landscape to anything we'd encountered before - volcanic outcrops, craters and lava flows. The initial drive was more interesting than a motorway but in no time at all we were back to long endless plains - as per normal. Approaching the national park we passed through lava fields which uncannily looked like endless piles of black rubble. Hopefully the park would be a little more distinctive than that. Judging by the visitor centre and how busy it was a lot people were expecting the same. The queue to pay was the biggest we've seen so far. Didn't bode well. The first walk - no space at the car park. The second & we were fortunate - the devil's orchard was a series of weird shaped lava outcrops and numerous negative placards about pollution. Might consider getting people out of the cars & instigating a shuttle bus system like every other national park we've been to. Next two car parks were full so no climbs up the cinder cones & the one way system meant a 5 mile round trip to have another go. Certainly was distinctive & striking scenery but the sheer weight of traffic spoiled it somewhat. Still we didn't pay so can't complain too much. Headed off to Idaha Falls & as Liz was heading towards a satisfying doze I was intrigued by a Historic Monument sign - EBR1 - curious - had to investigate which unfortunately meant a u-turn. She awoke to find us heading towards some form of nuclear museum. She wasn't impressed. Even less so when we were stopped by a soldier. Fortunately I wasn't in any more trouble - he was just helping out - they were rammed with all the post eclipse traffic. Anyway we parked up and she tolerated a self guided tour of the first generating nuclear power plant in the world. Hopefully we wouldn't leave glowing...Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Good recomendations.
August 21, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 29 °C
What could follow that? Well some hefty traffic jams - or so we were told & as we were packing up so the flow of the traffic on the motorway suggested. While it was slow it moved all the way to Boise - the state capital & from then onwards all was clear. So in answer to what follows - a lot of driving through yet more plains. Our friendly Texan from yesterday suggested there was plenty at Twin Falls but the drive there suggested nothing of any drama. Never judge a book by err... it's surroundings. The bridge over the Snake River Canyon was a suitably impressive intro. The canyon, partly made famous by Evel Knevel's ill-fated rocket jump across it was equally dramatic. We stopped at the visitor centre & wandered over to take a look. A guy was walking over the bridge & a few people seemed to suggest he was going to base jump off it. Surely not. But indeed he did. Wandered under the bridge and a few others had a go. Awesome dude - as a rather wasted base jumper who was milling around would say. Liked the fact we'd seen the total eclipse but had to outdo us - 13 jumped off at the same time during the eclipse. Headed back to check-in & chill. Watched some news & as a few people alluded to, pictures don't really do it justice - certainly mine don't. Decided to do the final recommend - Shoshone Falls. Referred to as the Niagara of the west. Impressive but apparently at this time of the year a hefty percent of the Snake River is diverted for irrigation. Unfortunately the walk to Evel's take off spot was substantially uphill & things were rather warm so that was a non-starter.Read more
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
1
Wow!
August 21, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The big day - weather reports looked very kind. The plan was to base ourselves just outside the hotel as it seems most of the local astronomy buffs were doing. A good sign. A quick swim before checking out & finding a spec. Initial plans of the patches of grass outside were dashed by some selfish dog owners. We perched ourselves on the kerb and awaited first contact - 45 minutes away. Things were pretty warm - tried out the glasses & even that was wild - being able to look at the sun directly. The excitement mounted when the moon took a first little bite out of the sun. The first of many whoops - we're in the states so what can you expect. Only 75 minutes to wait. That said it never got boring watching the eclipse progessing. With 20 mins to go you could sense that the light was beginning to change & things were cooler - we no longer felt like we were burning. The sunbeams in the tree shadows were casting crescent shadows. 10 mins and the thin remnants of the sun were minimal. With a few minutes to go we were anticipating the things we would see but nothing could prepare for the enormity and majesty of what would transpire. The darkness suddenly came upon us and the sun was gone - just the corona spewing out from behind the moon. It was like there was a hole in the sky from where the sun should have been. You could see stars, the street lights came on and there was a whoop frenzy. It was the most amazing thing & I can completely understand how ancient peoples thought it was the end of the world. Then there was the diamond ring and totality was over. Most started to pack up but we were getting our moneys worth. We were seeing it through to the final contact. It was amazing how the light and heat came back so quickly. We weren't for moving though. Cadged wifi from the hotel to see when the next eclipse was 2026 & 27 in Spain. Bring it on.Read more
Traveler What an amazing experience, you obviously enjoyed every minute!
8/22/17Reply
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USA eclipse 2017 John Bickerstaff
Caught by the fuzz.
August 20, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Interesting morning run. All was quiet on the streets of La Grande. Opted to play it simple - up & down Main St - there was nothing on the roads so the traffic lights wouldn't be a problem. All was going smoothly till a stationary car obscured my vision - only at the last minute did I see a car coming & stopped. Phew. Once gone proceeded on my way. Except I didn't - a grey car pulled up - the one that had almost run me down. A fart like siren. Oh dear. "Hey buddy" (I'm not & it's even less likely after this conversation. 'Officer Buddy' proceeded to lecture me on how I was almost run over (by him) and ran (irony) a red light. I could get a citation (whatever that is) Obviously I apologised & he let me off with a warning - he was just pissed off that he almost ran someone over & couldn't face having a sweaty runner in his nice new mustang - which incidentally was unmarked - entrapment. How do I know he was a narky individual - the next set of lights he waited at a green light & made sure I waited at the lights & went round the block & watched me at the next set. Came back along the back roads. Maintain that having to stop 'Officer Buddy' caused my calf to tighten up. Minimal brekkie - cheap motel. Now to see the traffic chaos that the eclipse was causing - early start should help. Aside from roadworks there was little of consequence to dusturb the journey - not even the surroundings were particularly inspiring - plains & rolling hills. Passed into the Mountain Time Zone which added an hour but that wasn't enough - way too early for check-in. All that didn't matter because we missed the turn. Pulled off at the services to regroup and were given plenty of options for the onward journey into Idaho. Decided to head off to the Owyhee Valley & Lake. An interesting drive - narrow roads & yet RV's and trucks with trailers all seemed to be heading in the opposite ditection. None would move over it seemed. Eventually made it to the State park area & a little oasis within the arid gorge and the lake created by the dam. A nice picnic lunch. A little walk & back to aircon. A little side trip to Snively Hot Springs. Easily found but disappointingly cold until I was pointed in the right direction. Scorchio. That's it. Nice dip & swim. Back to the hotel for Liz to tend her wounds - a couple of bites when hiking through to the springs. Pondered where to go for the eclipse over tea at an Irish Bar. The excitement...Read more
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