• Canyon climbing.

    30. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Woke up to find outside was cool(ish) so strike while the iron is hot. Out for a quick run, brekkie & upto the park. No need for photo id unsurprisingly, rather more surprising was the limited queue for the shuttle bus into Zion. Got on the 2nd bus. The plan was to do the moderately challenging stuff before the heat took over & by then we'd be coming downhill. So upto the Emerald pools via the Kayenta Trail. Lots of dramatic outlooks over the valley & a fair few stumbles & trips. Got to look where I'm going. The middle pool was relatively easy to get to. The decision was whether to push onto the upper pool. The clue is in the name - quite a bit of uphill & not do much shade. Liz wasn't happy but we made it. Unfortunately you couldn't swim there but lots of shade when we finally made it. Lots of down to the lower pool which had waterfalls spraying the unwary - nice. At the bus stop the warning that made the impression was of the possibility of hours of queuing for return buses (not the tales of flooding, wildlife etc) so the decision was made to head back as the heat got to its worst & hopefully as people were still active. Plan worked - no queue. As for the visitor centre - the queue going into the park - epic... madness.Læs mere

  • What's the time?

    29. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Lodge located - handily a short walk from the park gate. A quick sort out & then out to get the National Park Pass & have a quick look since we arrived relatively early. Car entrance into the park is banned meaning everyone has to use the shuttle bus within the park - they looked busy & it was a relief not to need them today - just a short walk up the valley floor along the Virgin river. Still really hot but at least the breeze had some noticable cooling effect - the fact that that was probably caused by an imminent storm was immaterial - flood warnings had been issued. Thankfully the warden didn't insist on photo id & off we went, hideously unprepared - not even a bottle of water. Rectified that at the shop. Nice walk - rather sweaty. Can safely say the hilly challenging routes are unlikely to make the grade - August in the S. States. Headed back & located the local Thai restaurant. Happy days. Nice bit of cooling down before heading out for tea - phones however seemed to think we'd been out for ages - all of a sudden it was 7.30. Clearly we had crossed a time zone - that's why the clock in reception was highlighting it was Mountain time zone. And that was why people were flooding out of the park...Læs mere

  • 3 different varieties of arid & bleak.

    29. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Small matter of getting to the airport to pick up the hire car. Since we had 24hr bus passes it seemed to make sense to get the airport bus & then take the car rental shuttle. The buses were very frequent after all or so I thought. Helps if you read the timetable. Got to the bus stop to find we had a 30 min wait - oops. The rental car place was easy enough to get to - a world away from the operation at Exeter, in fact the car rental place was probably bigger than Exeter airport in it's entirety. Got into a heated discussion over unpaid fees for the car. It was paid up front in advance, which was accepted but sometimes the 2 companies get the taxes a bit wrong. Why should I have to pick up the tab. Manager called & sorted. All for ... 24 cents. Checked car - all ok. Stopped off at the Welcome to Las Vegas sign - people were queuing for a photo opp & some chancer was charging to take photos even though a sign said it wasn't allowed. Pushed on, picked up stuff & headed out of Vegas or at least we tried. Many wrong turns. Eventually headed out to the bleak Nevada hinterland. Flat, arid & inhospitable. Crossed the border into Arizona & things got more rugged & grand but still bleak. Every now & then signs pointed to unseen places - their existance seemingly implausible. Stopped off for food in Mesquite & finding shops proved a challenge - fast food easy, casino / resort not a problem. Into Utah & things got impressive - just beyond Hurricane there was a historic viewpoint - expected some sort of border skirmish with the Mexicans. In fact it was the site of a rocket test track.Læs mere

  • Mac, me & 500 others.

    28. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 35 °C

    Tea proved to be something of a movable feast. Initial plans of eating at the hotel were binned off when the headline steak price of $7.99 was found to be a gambling related offer & shockingly 5 cent punts on the slots didn't count. Opted to take in the Belagio fountain show - one of the few things in this city that hasn't been totally monetised - before deciding. It was at this point it became clear how unsuited to human existance Vegas naturally is - 42° at 7pm. Any breeze felt like a sub-standard hair dryer. Once the fountains had done their thing we tried in the Paris casino but it was too loud & busy. Decided to head towards the concert, for we had a show planned, & find somewhere near there. Took the route through the Flamingo casino & found a relatively quiet food court - should be cheap, easy & relatively acceptable, admittedly not the greatest of endorsements for a food establishment. Chinese chow & then off to see Echo & the Bunnymen - Liverpool's 2nd finest. Unfortunately show times proved to be later than anticipated & the Bunnymen proved not be quite as show worthy as Liz hoped ie she was tired & not fussed. I loved it along with 500 others & the wasted guy in front of us probably liked it enough for about 10 of us - surprised he didn't explode with excitement. Midnight curfew & it was still ludicrously hot outside.Læs mere

  • Slots of fun

    28. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Apparently all the madness that is the 'strip' is a new phenomenon. For a sanitised version of the old fashioned madness that was Las Vegas in the past you need to head to Freemont Street, Downtown. Rather bizarrely the strip is not the city centre. Handily this is also the site of one of U2's best known videos & hence my idea of what Vegas is like. Where better to have a little flutter. Being 5 miles or so from the hotel meant walking was not an option so we hit the bus. The downtown express was anything but, but it had air con so we were happy. Were dropped off with the instructions of where to pick up the return - @ the heart attack cafe. Wandered along the pedestrianised & cannopied road with dodgy Elvis impersonators & kids dancing to Michael Jackson. Stopped for a slot machine session - 5 cents a pop - high stakes stuff. Avoided the temptation to zip wire off Slotzilla - a five storey slot machine. Back to the strip for lunch. By now it was hitting 40° - a bit much. Retreated to the air con of the MGM casino. All well & good but couldn't find our way back out - we did find Sheldon though. Guess they don't want you leaving. When we did get out we headed for the Earl of Sandwich for possibly the best sarnies.Læs mere

  • Geek fest

    28. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Time to try to comprehend the insanity that is Las Vegas. Stepped out post breakfast & the first thing to get our still weary heads round was the temperature - 30°+ at 8.30. Any little bit of shade was grasped & clung to. Every now & then misters were used to cool things down, which helped allbeit very briefly. Scouted out the venue for the Bunnymen concert & then headed for a casino - first one - any one - one with air con.
    The scale of it was immense - seemingly endless means of losing money. The craps tables summed it up perfectly. Wandered round Caeser's Palace just as some nerd fest was kicking off - epic queues of geeks waiting for a computing conference. Half expected to see Sheldon.
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  • Vegas!

    27. juli 2017, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 34 °C

    Very disappointing arrival into New York. Skycrapers barely visible on the horizon. Not what was ordered... Settled down to the expected endless queues & grilling that is homeland security. Since Liz had a passport that hadn't been put through the washing machine since our last visit she could prove she had an expired travel authority - we could jump some of the queuing by using the baffling machines. They spat out receipts. No surprise whose had a cross on it. Crosses go one way - pre-approved the other. Going to be a grilling. Except it wasn't. Perfunctory questions & spat out. Unfortunately not for Liz. Epic queue. Got moved - not allowed to wait, even parents were being separated. Picked up the bags. Eventually met up, did security & settled down for some serious waiting. Had window seats when eventually boarded but a combination of Mancunian style cloud & bad location over the wing meant no views at all. Not the most comfortable flight but made it to Vegas & the first sight off the plane - slot machines. Train to baggage reclaim. Opted for taxi - needs to be easy & in his defence it was. He did however take the longest route possible & expected a tip. The tip was the extra $10 you took us round the sticks.Læs mere

  • Close encounters of the high kind.

    27. juli 2017, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Not sure if it's the orange one's influence but check in was bizarre. Queued up to have a weird security quiz. Liz was asked about her job or lack of. Just to mix it up I was grilled about my free time - clearly I don't look the working sort. Ended up quizzing me about the cost & location of the seasie. Security was negotiated with comparative ease. Boarded to find a plane out of the dark ages - no seat back entertainment - cheap skate yanks. Still, not the longest of long haul flights & the BBQ chicken was pretty good. Saw a couple of planes - crossed over a vapour trail - does that class as a near miss?Læs mere

  • The final act.

    8. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    A mere 3 miles cycling & a 1pm flight. On the face of it that leaves plenty of time. In reality 30 mins getting there; dismantling bike & check in 2 hours prior to departure equalled leaving at around 10:30 & since room check out was 10 that left a few hours to mooch & get some breakie. It was a pretty windy morning & the thought of sorting out wet stuff put me off a final swim. Cavtat is a much more relaxed place than Dubrovnik - apparently they were once of a similar size & importance. Found a bakery & picked up an apple strudel & was left with 10 Kuna. Opted to go to the fruit guy & buy 10K worth of cherries. Sat on the harbour wall watching the world go by. Not bad way to end the holiday. However the small matter of the flight loomed. Headed back, packed & dropped of the keys. Uphill all the way to the airport & then pulling the bike apart. By now both panniers were falling apart so it was a case of get as much as possible in the bike bag. Wash & check in. Oversized baggage was bizarre - the usual big scanner but no-one there. Told to leave it - it'll be fine. Hope so.Læs mere

  • Back where I started

    7. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    So the small matter of getting out to Cavtat with only front brakes working. First things first - back to the hostel, change, repack & locate (unlikely) brake blocks taken out. Thankfully the hostel yard was in the shade so not too onerous. Brake blocks weren't located - clearly left somewhere, so just front brake. Have to go careful. Only 12 miles so shouldn't be too bad. Still it was 30°. Emailed the owner before setting off giving an idea of arrival time - doubt he got it. Uphills were fairly gentle & the downhills taken gingerly so never going to be an electric pace. Arrived - no-one about (clearly email still in the post) The shop downstairs was open this time so poked my head in & they called him. Same room as last time but made sure there was an aircon remote. Wandered down for tea - had some amber jack (I suspect a type of tuna) very nice. Admired another sunset & polished off a dollop of ice cream. Nice.Læs mere

  • A final ferry

    7. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Post pie, things had cooled down somewhat but the thought of cycling the hilly route to Cavtat didn't really appeal. Down to the harbour & hop the ferry to Lokrum Island. Any number of other cruise type options were being thrown in my direction - do they not recognise a tight wad when they see one? Got some nice views of the old town from the sea & once on Lokrum the main objective was to get in said sea. Grabbed a map & eventually made it down to the beach & when I say beach really it was a series of rocky outcrops with swimming pool steps attached. That said it was easier getting in than shingle / stone. Very refreshing. Having cooled down it was inevitable that something would have to be done that would do the opposite. Heading upto the highest point on the island should do it. The final path up the hill was called paradise path - didn't feel much like paradise. Back to the sea for another swim & then the ferry back Dubrovnik.Læs mere

  • From the sublime to the ridiculous

    7. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Just as the wall walk was coming to end it, was clear how busy things were becoming - queues of people stretching along the wall. The plan was to now take the cable car up Mt Srd, admire the views of Dubrovnik and then walk down. On arrival bought my ticket & was ushered straight on the next cable car. Has to be said the view of the city was stunning. Also up here was a museum / gallery devoted to the homeland war. Very sad tale of atrocities & this was just what happened in Croatia - no mention of Bosnia or Kosovo. From the sublime goodness that so many showed me yesterday to the ridiculous idiocy of war today. From there to the path down - gorgeously peaceful & one of the stations of the cross at each hairpin or at least I assume that was what it was - it is a catholic country after all. Picked up a couple of pasty type things on entering town, found a shady spot & chilled for a while.Læs mere

  • Quiet(ish) Dubrovnik

    7. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Led astray by Ivan the bike guy, I awoke a little groggy. Having repaired my bike, I couldn't face feeling rude again so round the corner for some beers and some interesting conversation. It would seem there are still tensions within the region. He recounted his love of building wheels, diving & Australia. Aside from my inability to do anything with my wheel we had plenty to talk about & in my defence, other than cutting out the spokes there was nothing he could do with the wheel either. That made me feel better - obviously the beer did not. Tried to keep to the plan - hit the wall as early as possible & play it by ear thereafter.
    Amazingly arriving at 9, I was expecting a queue. Maybe the tour hoardes hadn't got in yet. Spent a relaxing hour walking along the ramparts admiring the views & taking way too many photos
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  • No-one in Dubrovnik does bike repairs!

    6. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    On arrival at the hostel, the priority was to try & get my bike in some sort of working order in order to get me to the airport. That meant finding a bike shop - surely there must be one in a city of 50000 people. Asked at reception and handily enough there was one just down the road. Result. Dumped my stuff & off I went. That was as good as got. I was assured that there was no-one in Dubrovnik that could help. Headed back & onto the internet & it would seem cheerful Charlie was right. OK try the contact - who spoke English. He didn't reject me out of hand - which was progress. He said he'd think on it & to call back in 5 mins. Not 2 mins later there was a text message ping through with a name and contact saying he would be able to fix it. Called & he came out to have a look - mainly because he gave up trying to give me directions. He offered to take it away & do his best to true it. Fingers crossed. All in all complete strangers helped throughout the day without thought & consistently refusing money. Restores your faith in humanity.
    All that sorted - went into Dubrovnik for a little explore - busy but not rammed - no cruises in. Very attractive & hot. At this point it dawned on me I hadn't eaten since breakfast & proceded to have the best kebab ever.
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  • Mechanical issues only much worse.

    6. juni 2017, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    And the day all started so well - a lie in of sorts, a relaxed & hearty breakfast on the lawn and some gentle climbing until the bike route started proper. Ambled through the next village of sorts - a restaurant & some tourist type caves. Planned to stop if open but no - only workmen. Pushed on through increasing farm establishments to eventually be 'greeted' by a very irate / territorial dog agressively barking as they do & then jumping up and lunging at me. Got the handlebars causing something of a crash. Eventually the owner gained some semblance of control. Tried to establish damage - seemed to be just a toe clip issue but as a made I hasty exit it became clear the wheel had been badly buckled. Not good. Spoke key out & try as I might it wouldn't be trued. In fact I might have made it worse. Eventually it dawned that, with 29 miles to go cycling wasn't an option at the moment. Help was needed. The question though was who - I was in the middle of no-where. Decided to head back to the workmen & see if any of them spoke English & had any ideas. This did mean getting past the devil dog again. Made sure bike was between me & it. Unfortunately the workmen spoke no English. They got a lady from the cave ticket office who spoke a little, who got her colleague who spoke a bit more. He phoned the restaurant owner who spoke good English & was glad to help (if he could.) He offered to call his cousin who was good with things like this. Failing that either he would take me to Dubrovnik tomorrow or he would phone around & find someone going today. He assured me things would be fine. When I saw his cousin's methods I was less sure - jumping on the wheel to remove the buckle. Didn't work. Lift to Dubrovnik. Theo was all for introducing me to his parents & having me as guest of honour - which would've been an experience but a lift had been found for me & the sooner I was in Dubrovnik the better. Felt very ignorant. As it happened the lift was just back to Ravno, where my actual lift was going from. Here 2 other guys proceded to hammer ten tonnes of shit out of my wheel. I knew this wouldn't have an impact until the spokes were adjusted but god knows what that is in Croatian. My lift appeared, knew where the hostel was & assured me he had a number for a guy who could sort my wheel. Compared to all this the border crossing was a breeze.Læs mere

  • Puncture frenzy (well 2)

    5. juni 2017, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Then began the slog to Ravno. The theory was that since there was little or nothing to do in Ravno, the journey was more important. That's all well & good but if you're tired, bed is the thing. Even so the cycle route that was being followed eventually was located & went over a couple of fun bridges. Then the decision point - follow the fun route with tunnels & bridges but is gravel or the paved but not quite so exciting route. No choice... To say it was gravel was exceedingly generous - it was the hardcore unsurprisingly used on rail lines. Not great for road bikes as had been warned at the sign. Pace was slow - not a problem. A puncture - that was a problem. Thankfully it happened at the last point of escape. Headed back to the road & mended it & had lunch. The downside of the paved route was the rail line took a gradual path up the hillside. The road did not. On a brief downhill a pot hole was hit - another puncture. For all the battles the route did offer great views of the countryside. As did the room when I evetually got in. Tea was the mother of all mixed grills. The bar man suggested meat, chips & salad. Little did I think I would end up with a huge selection. Came back to the room to discover the air con had been leaking - moved room & cue lots of puzzled faces & banging.Læs mere

  • Not bad as swim specs go.

    5. juni 2017, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It was always in my plans to try & visit Kravica Falls. With now following the cycle route through S. Bosnia it would have been rude not to - that said it was another 10 miles or so, not allowing for dirt track detours of which there were a couple. On one said detour I ended up racing a kid up a hill (him on foot) he found it hilarious. I was just knackered. The climb out of the valley was hard only to discover my gears were knackered. Everything off & running repairs - hopefully the last of the day. With all this the falls had to be something special. They didn't disappoint. A Scottish couple warned that the water was refreshing - a euphemism for fucking freezing if ever there was one & for a Jock to think it's cold... Wasn't too bad.Læs mere

  • Hawkers still in bed!

    5. juni 2017, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Usual early start & by prior arrangement a breakie goody bag had been left for me. A massive barm cake, various toppings, fruit & a chocolate pudding. Happily sat outside scoffing & admiring the view of Mostar. Kicked off at just after 7am & headed for my first detour Blagaj Ottoman Dervish site. Basically a site of religious importance at a natural spring. Passed kids going to school - HA! Got there in no time - well just under an hour & it was deserted. The hawkers huts were boarded up, restaurants closed - I had a free reign to go where I wanted for photos. Went up the reserved area for diners only - and could see why - but not for me today...Læs mere

  • Don't cycle through old town Mostar.

    4. juni 2017, Bosnien-Hercegovina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The initial impression of Bosnia revolved around the common place business activity - namely scrap car dealers. Must've been 10 in the first few miles. Following that it was mass snakeacide - 4 run over snakes within a mile. Clearly there are snakes around here but they don't have road sense. Great downhill into Mostar (45mph) then the ultimate tactical error - going through the old town with a fully laden bike wasn't smart. Narrow alleyways full of tourists & market stalls. As for getting over the old bridge - lethal - the cobbles were glass like. Massive uphill to the hotel - nice! What was nice was the pool. Happy days. Cooled off & then headed into town to take a closer look at the bridge - a world heritage monument. Very impressive especially from the river bank.Læs mere

  • For the last time, I'm not German

    4. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Definite case of chalk and cheese. Yesterday the resident soundtrack was buses hairing past; today was the endless twittering of songbirds. Much improved. Unfortunately the last 4 miles yesterday had been downhill & I had to double back & then finish off across the Dupci Pass. Thankfully an early start meant most of it in the shade. Once over it was clear that the Dalmatian hinterland wasn't flat. Pleasant to look at...
    Took in the opposite end of the gorge I saw at Omis. Popped into a local store for water prior to a fearsome climb to be met with the greeting 'sprechen Duesch' - not the first time I've been mistaken for a German. Fear of a lack of Bosnian currency led to stock up before the border crossing - many cherries. Then into Bosnia...
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  • Detour frenzy.

    3. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    With all the tooing & froing the main portion of the days cycle had yet to begin - a gentle 45 miler. Popped by a cycle shop which was closing as I pulled up. That lack of luck in mind I decided against extra trip upto a famous castle (Game of Thrones) - it'd be full of German tourists anyway. Did detour to see what Split's beaches were like. Short answer - full. Road out of Split was a busy dual carriageway so that was fun. Grinned & bore the buses & wagons - annoyingly all the beaches were substantially downhill - not an option. Those that weren't by there nature were by a main road & all possessed little or no shade. Did eventually find a spec that ticked all the boxes. Then the small matter of a 5 mile climb to get to the hotel. Got in early enough to some washing & make a fool of myself for not knowing how to turn on the air con... And i left my passport at the reception desk. Brela has a nice promenade along some attractive beaches, one of which was voted one of top 10 prettiest in the world. Nice swim. Since the coast is so nice it would have been rude not to eat at a beach side establishment.Læs mere

  • Round in circles literally.

    3. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Much easier cycle to the ferry - just a couple of miles, then the small measure of a couple of hours to get to Split. Managed to bag a spec by a plug so could do stuff without eating battery. How sad! Also was well away from all the German bikers & their cigarettes. Split it turns out is a big city & has traffic as bad as you would expect. Not used to cars. The plan was to see the former Roman palace & then head out to the Hadjuk Split ground. The hoardes surrounding the palace persuaded me to give it a wide berth. Got to the ground easy enough but finding the club shop. Various levels circle the ground, some not going all the way round. Invariably the wrong one was chosen - much doubling back. That said managed to get an illicit view of inside the ground. A couple of workman had left a gate open. Assumed with the near persistent sound of drills etc that they were busy & wouldn't notice. Wrists promptly slapped. Got the photo anyway.Læs mere

  • No steepness @ the end just dirt tracks

    2. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The flat profile of the last 10 miles suggested a nice easy run in. No such luck - 2 miles from home the road ran out. Turn round & add at least 5 extra miles. Grin & bear the dirt track. Happily the satnav got me to the hostel easily - it's located in the maze of the old town. Not that there was anyone @ reception. An old guy poked his head in at some point - waved the reservation at him & he scuttled off - '1 moment'
    Eventually someone did appear - whether old guy had anything to do with it is anybodies guess. Shower & then explore & eat. Clearly Stari Grad does get tourists - lots of choice - too much.
    Opted for take away & sitting on the harbour wall watching the world go by.
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  • Swim & the sun goes in.

    2. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    While Hvar is very unspoiled, this means there are very few places of any size & what there was either didn't have shops or the owners couldn't be arsed. Equally the road through the island was largely along the (hilly) spine avoiding the coast. For these reasons Jelsa loomed large on the radar (map) - get supplies & have a swim. As it happened with only being 6 miles from home supplies weren't deemed necessary. Very pleasant place, statue of a donkey?? and plenty of swimming options. Just as a decision was made the sun went in. Stubborn streak - sod it.Læs mere

  • Overtaken by butterflies.

    2. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Another hurried cycle to Dvernik - 18 miles in 2 hours & again massively misjudged the effort needed. Another 40 mins to kill - early lunch looking out over the beach. All this hurrying & not even half way. The plan was to get to Hvar early & enjoy a more leisurely cycle on the island. The roads were very quiet BUT you know you are in trouble when knackered tractors & butterflies are overtaking you - the pro-cycling fan boys that were on the ferry I can live with. I'm sure they gave me a head start & they just sailed past.Læs mere

  • Stupid steepness, beginning, middle ...

    2. juni 2017, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Hate cycling to deadlines... in fact all deadlines. Anyway with 2 different ferries to catch, if I didn't want to be kicking my heels for hours waiting I had to make the 9am ferry from Trpanj - 13 miles and a very hefty climb away. Another 7am start gave me 2 hours which averaged out at just over 6mph not much more than walking pace. At the top of the 6 mile climb things weren't looking so good. Was banking on lots speedy downhill. Quick stop at the communist war memorial & then belt it to the port. Got there with 40mins to spare.Læs mere

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