John Bickerstaff

Slept pretty well under the circumstances but at quarter to 6 decided to get cracking - give myself something of a buffer. Breakie & packing all at the same time. Worked on the lights for it was still dark - had to tape on the rear light, then when I tried it the battery had gone. Deposited key & bedding - got to the gate & realised I needed the key to get out. Back to the hostel and with some contortions & squeezing just about managed to retrieve my key. Unlocked the gate & wedged it open with my bike while dashing back to dump the key again. Annoyances aside still managed to get away well before 7. Nice & cool and progress was good. Not much of significance in the first 30 miles save for a town intent on parading multiple red statues of animals - no idea why. The only other note of interest was falling off my bike. Classic case of being nosey - a bike sign intrigued - turned to see what it was wobbled and clobbered a kerb that most bike lanes over the last never have except just now. Cue slow motion fall and a rather bloody knee. Bit wobbly for the next few miles - had another few near misses - but survived. It was interesting just as France got closer so the cycling infrastructure disappeared. Not what you'd expect from the country of 'Le Tour' At the most mundane of borders I began going over familiar terrain from 12 years ago. This included the common sight of war cemeteries. Paid respects at couple, 1 of which was the largest in the Flemish area. Always horrendously sobering places. Equally always peaceful and beautifully kept. No Bickerstaffs or Irons. The first pleasant reminder of the past was passing through Bray Dunes - the final stop of My Med - La Manche cycle. Couldn't resist a little detour. Handy for a toilet stop as well. On the way out discovered a cycle route claiming to go to Dunkirk - slight downside was access via a steep set of stairs. Not ideal - learn from the Dutch. Still with a few tweaks made it fairly easily to the outskirts of Dunkirk & exactly as last time that was as close as I got. The joy of navigating the mammoth industrial complex of Dunkirk docks - utterly grim. Foundries, chemical works & refineries - it stunk and as an introduction to France I can't think of anything worse - possibly Manchester Airport comes close at our end. 1 dead end caused a little concern though the buffer accumulated meant I could probably go back to Dunkirk find a different route & still make it in time. Car ferry signs located & a tortuous route through French & English customs & passport control. Only 1 out of 6 booths operating at the UK version and you've guessed it mammoth queues. Yet more Brexit wins but of course it's the evil Frenchies fault. Being on a bike meant I jumped a chunk of queuing & there wasn't much suspicion I was smuggling. Bikes and Motor bikes were first on and having been bumped into an earlier ferry meant virtually no hanging around, though I had to walk my bike up in case my wheel fell through the gaps - couldn't see it but what would be gained arguing. Dumped bike & dug out some toiletries hoping my injury might get me access to the truckers showers - it did. Ferry was pretty uneventful - my word though It's a pretty busy bit of sea. At one point I counted 11 ships visible to my rubbish eyes. Here's where the smoothness vaporises. Getting of at Dover while first proved a challenge - just follow the red line they said - easy. Gates that needed unlocking and crossing 3 lanes of trucks. Bit hairy. Up the hill to the station wasn't much better only to discover there was no way to change my train ticket. Both ferry & train were non-transferable so this smacks a little of jobsworth - cue a two & half hour wait...
Thankfully the train got in substantially before departure so a dollop of sitting in the air conditioned train helped my mood. What didn't help my mood an hour later was cycling around London. The utter lunacy of bike lanes just stopping at the worst possible point or dumping you in the middle of a crossroads with no clue as to when or where you should go. I'm no novice cyclist but this was grim and the other road users didn't help. Oh to be back in Holland. Room in the hostel was at the very top of the building but at least there was a fan. Cooled down & had a little wander - see the location & food options. For food it was a £12 burger where you had to decide on the 15 toppings you want... Pass. Location - right by St Paul's & the Millennium Bridge so managed to get some nice night time photos.Read more