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USA eclipse 2017

July - August 2017
A 36-day adventure by John Read more
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  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 6

    Cookie Monster

    August 1, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Savoured the cool morning temperatures - almost a hint of chill. Before the big trip we headed to Panguitch - the local town - 'famous' for its wild west architecture. Or at least the picture we saw in a leaflet suggested so. This it did have, but not much else - well a tenuous link to Butch Cassidy & petrol. Now to the small matter of heading to the Grand Canyon & due to routing / attraction choices made we'd be doubling back on ourselves for a good chunk. The lush high altitude meadows made a pleasant change last time & still were an improvement on arid scrub. And if nothing else 100 miles in we had a cookie stop at Jacob's Lake to look forward to. In between plenty of grand views & villages with spectacular backdrops. A sign claiming a 'scenic view point' appeared. Something of a big claim in the current surroundings - a lot to live upto. We were offered a clear overview of the Grand Staircase National Monument - a series of plateau erroded by the forces that created the Grand Canyon. Impressive. Onto the cookies.
    Supposedly 'world famous' & other than a visitor centre & garage there's little else at Jacob's Lake. But they were certainly worth the visit. There'll certainly be a stop on the return trip to Page.    Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 6

    Well it's not Maghull Square

    August 1, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The journey to the rim was not without its issues. Something of a queue at the park entrance was largely caused by a laid back ranger - taking his time with the maps. Not sure how maintained the roads are - caught a pretty hefty one - didn't sound good & on later inspection the hub cap agreed. Whether the car hire people will notice is anybody's guess - at least we are insured. Minds were suitably focussed elsewhere when the road approached the canyon rim - glimpses of the spectacle to come between the trees. Parked up & couldn't resist walking down the Bright Angel trail. It was amazing - too big really to comprehend & words don't do it justice. Headed back to check in and discovered that we'd have to wait till 4 - not too bad under 2 hours. Except we'd forgotten that Arizona was in a different time zone - around 3 hours felt a bit different. Took in the visitor centre & decided to drive out to one of the further viewpoints - Imperial Point. If anything the views were more varied & we pretty much had them to ourselves. At no point have we been able to see the Colorado river - shows how deep it is. Headed back & checked in. Nice relax & then to the stressful experience of ... choosing what to eat. The main dining room with spectacular canyon views was fully booked & ludicrously expensive. The deli had pizzas & sarnies, then there was the Chuckwagon buffet 'eat as much as you can' - dangerous. That was the option. Very nice. Needed an epic walk afterwards. Decided to go to the general store at the camp ground - about a mile away. About the same as the walk to the square back home - slightly better views though - that's here not Maghull - just in case there's confusion.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 7

    Hail storms in Arizona

    August 2, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The plan was to go and get brekkie from the saloon & eat on the veranda overlooking the canyon. At 8am they had sold out. So change of plan. But not before Liz had her cup of tea. There was only one option - head to the general store - they can't sell out. Added bonus - it's the sole source of wifi so postings can be updated. Headed down the bridleway I'd just run on a couple of hours earlier. So for breakfast we spent $10 instead of $34 at the lodge. Lucky break. Then to the main event - a short hike down below the rim on the mule track. The first thing that struck us was the smell - it was a bit ripe - certainly had to watch your step. As we headed down black clouds were certainly looming but this is Arizona & though not as typically arid as you'd imagine surely unlikely to see rain. About 5 mins down the first drops of rain were felt. A quick look didn't bode well so we headed back for shelter - just in case. Just as well - an epic thunderstorm followed - torrential rain & hailstones. A few lucky souls made it to the shelter & then followed a steady stream of soaked hikers. Chatted to a father & son from 'Philly' who had hiked down from the south rim and upto the North rim. It was 50°down at the river crossing so when the rain came they were quite happy ... initially. By the time it stopped they weren't keen. Dropped them off at their bus stop and headed for lunch. A pulled pork sarnie that needed to be eaten quickly or it fell apart. Liz went off to sort her cup of tea - no prizes for guessing who ended up messiest.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 7

    Was that thunder or a fart?

    August 2, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After a messy lunch we adjourned to our room - hanging fire with going out to tie up with sunset at the Angel's Window - supposedly the best bet on the Northern Rim. Go too early & we'd be hanging round. We set off with the best of intentions & was happily heading North when a lorry passed in the opposite direction kicking up a stone. It hit the windscreen & made a small chip - hopefully the hire agency wouldn't notice. Pulled into have a look & all of a sudden the chip extended to a 20cm crack. Think they'll notice that. Decided to head to the local garage to see what he thought. He seemed very relaxed - no way was it a problem - the car hire people will sort it. Glad he was so confident - sure they'll sort but it'll cost. Decided to press on and fortunately there were a number of stops and short walks along the way to keep us occupied. Roosevelt point & Wahalla Point showed increasingly impressive views of the canyon. Also some archeological remains proved an interesting aside. The best, however, was saved to last - Angel's Window and Cape Royal. Standing on top of the Angel's Window felt like you were surrounded by the Canyon and for once you could actually see the Colorado river - 1 mile down. Tried to hang around for sunset along with a couple of characters - a farting Japanese guy and 2 singing Mexicans. Looming clouds & the rumbles of thunder in the distance persuaded us to call it a day.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 8

    Colorado - a closer inspection.

    August 3, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Today was really a stopover on the way to Monument Valley. No sense though in ignoring interesting things along the way, most of which revolved around the Colorado river. Laid back start - usual run & walk combo finishing with breakfast at the campsite shop. A sharp shower while eating was a foretaste of what was to come. Took a last look at the view and headed off to replenish our cookie supply. Heading out of the park we were faced with yet another thunderstorm. Some superb lightning. Cleared as we headed down of the Kaibab Plateau & as we descended the temp rose 14° to 30° in the space of 10 mins. The next 50 miles of driving was your archetypal mid-west desert road - long, straight and surrounded by scrub bush & ochre sand. Impressive & boring at the same time. Made it to Lee's ferry without falling asleep at the wheel. This was the historic crossing of the Colorado river. Expected this to be the closest we'd get to it. Probably was but you wouldn't know it - massive cliffs & the dinghies below were tiny. Frighteningly some visitors have to have a sign to warn you not to jump off. Just a couple of miles from Page was Horseshoe Bend - a view of the Colorado looping around an outcrop. Seemed a good stop off before checking in. Shouldn't be too busy - an offbeat sight. 5 coaches in the car park suggested otherwise. Numerous warnings about hiking in the desert made this seem far more risky than expected. The heat didn't help - though what can you expect in the desert? Thunder clouds unsurpringly were looming. Took our time & drank lots of water. Considering some of the bloaters coming back it seemed unthinkable that we'd struggle. What was a struggle was the masses of people & the stupid things they insisted on doing. Pictures taken, view admired - exit stage left. Found the hotel, checked in, found the pool & cooled off. That only lasted until the phone call to the hire company. 30 mins of language based confusion typified by him thinking the wind screen had been damaged by a horse & cart - how can the phrase 'a lorry / wagon' be mis-understood. Brief excursion into Page consisted of a quick visit to the Glen Canyon Dam & a steak meal served by possibly the squeakiest waitress on earth.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 9

    Photo Dictator.

    August 4, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Before heading off to Monument Valley we had the small matter of a trip down Antelope Canyon - a slot canyon that when flash floods occur can be lethal. Good job we're in a desert - nice and dry ... Oh wait. The company that had the dubious honour of my business was supposedly quieter - fewer numbers, which was also the selling point of the lower canyon tours as opposed to the higher end. The car park appeared and it seemed such a claim was a little suspect. 1 hour later and still queuing to get down into the canyon & the rival companies clients flying down & all was not hp. Eventually we made it down and it was truly an alien looking landscape. You could well imagine how lethal flooding could be down here. The guide clearly fancied herself as something of David Bailey - wittering on about white balances and ordering us into various poses along the way. Despite all the hoardes, it was a magical place - not sure it was ideal for the wedding photos that were being taken down there. Free bottle of water, no mention of tips, the sun was out - all was well. Off to Monument Valley - what could go wrong.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 9

    Big Buttes

    August 4, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    For the majority of the journey, in the distance we could see, if awake, dark looming clouds. These eventually formed the almost predictable thunderstorms. Fortunately they always seemed to be just ahead - cars coming the other way had lights on & we were often driving on wet surfaces. In some ways it added interest to the drive - the roads were dead straight with limited interest - a silo of some sort that looked like a giant slide was the most exciting talking point. By the time we got to Kayenta - about 30 miles from Monument Valley, the storm had hit, was getting pretty vicious & the rain was torrential. There'd been a few signs refering to flooding along the way. Went over a couple of raging torrents that almost certainly were dried river beds yesterday. Our first glimpse of the buttes were shrouded in cloud, rain and with shards of lightning threatening them periodically. The rain let up a little as we approached & checked in but the usual sunshine drenched views of the valley weren't going to happen. Torrential rain in the desert - couldn't make it up. Checked in & we had one of only 6 out of the 96 not to have a view. Wonder why? Eventually things cleared a little - had an explore. Saw John Wayne's favourite view - supposedly. Had some traditional Navajo stew - what on earth is hominy?Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 10

    Dodgy roads

    August 5, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Be great to be able to tell the time - chopping & changing between Arizona & Utah was the problem I maintain. The hotel is situated in Arizona but uses Utah time - 1 hour difference. All sounds simple but phones often use geographic & service details for time. Sometimes it changes all by itself. Unfortunately this meant when I thought I was getting up at 6.20 it was in fact 5.20. No wonder no-one was about. Should have twigged. Worse case when I looked out the window & saw pitch black something should've registered. At 5.30 it dawned on me, unlike the sun I was expecting to see. Went to bed for an hour. After all this it was cloudy. Went off for a run in a huff. Probably the most dramatic route for a while. Got back, packed & had prime time seats for brekkiee. Before heading off I wanted to take the valley road - admittedly it was a dirt road but the receptionist said the first section was do-able in a regular car. What she classed as the first section is anybody's guess - first 100m, first hairpin... The first couple of photo opps were achieved relatively easily but getting to John Ford's spec was tricky to put it mildly - deep ridges, big rocks & the remains of flash floods from yesterday. Managed to hit a couple of rocks - fingers crossed no more damage. The final view was pretty special - some opportunist was charging $5 for the John Wayne Experience - sit on a horse - no mention of milk though. Tentatively headed back - crawling along to a few people's irritation. Made it back to safety & had a final look in the visitor centre. Came out to torrential rain - is this Manchester in disguise?Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 10

    More dodgy roads.

    August 5, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Just the small matter of 170 miles to get to the South Rim of the Canyon. First stop was Kayenta - nearest town to Monument Valley - fill up & get essentials. Missed turn for shops - slight detour, major speed bumps - car not happy. Pushed on retracing steps for a little while more. Signs warning of rough road surface caused concern - could the car cope with anything more. As it happens it was nothing more than uneven & bumpy. By now the roads were straight & the surroundings dull & monotonous. Last resort to relieve boredom - American radio - miraculously something was found - a live concert. That helped. A scenic viewpoint came & went confusing signage dictated a huffy retreat - so unlike me. Tried the next one & unsurprisingly the roads down were abysmal. Just parked up & the rain began. Stubbornly insisted on seeing this gorge & it was quite impressive. In pretty much any other country it would celebrated as a wonder. It is however next door to the Grand Canyon. Eventually made it to the park gate & on entering cars were being ushered to the first sight of the Canyon. Needless to say most did. Very busy. Seems drier on this side. Nice clear view of the river. Quick look & headed to the lodge. It became clear that it wasn't just the canyon that was big on this side. Our lodge was split into 2 wings, each with 6 buildings. Massive. A world away from the North Rim. Unpacked & headed down to the rim & there was a really nice walk along the edge of the canyon for a mile or so. Had geological pointers, some great viewpoints & best of all was pretty quiet. A New York family were about the same pace as us - the dad offered to take our photo - appreciated. Handed the phone to his son to sort out - great delegation. Made it to the Village centre but it seems really to be just a collection of hotels with access to some stunning views. Back for tea - order was taken by a machine - no tipping issues.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017
    Day 11

    On the rim

    August 6, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Laid back start to the day - morning run aside. Brekkie was somewhat disrupted by the fact that the fridge had been set to vicious cold and all the fruit had been frozen. Headed to the general store with the expectation of something similar to the North Rim version. It was more akin to Asda with souvenirs. That said we picked up what we needed for breakfast and lunch - picnic with a view today. Today's joy was somethiing that the North couldn't really offer - an extended walk along the rim with ever changing views. What it would probably also offer was ever changing crowds. The first stretch to the village we knew & it was at the village we first encountered an element of busy but to be fair once beyond the trailhead down into the canyon it subsided and all was quiet as we like it. Ambled on watching the hikers descending and the condors gliding. You could practically see the trail virtually to the Colorado. A great challenge - one for the future maybe. Along the way encountered numerous chipmunks and squirrels as well as a lazy rabbit and a very showy bluejay. Opted for lunch at Maticopa Point. It was here we fully realised what a great invention ice machines are - 2 water bottles stuffed with ice provided cold water 3 hours into our hike - heaven. Decided now to head back on the bus - break from the sun or escape from the impending downpour - black clouds were looming. Found bus stop but there didn't appear to be a stop back to town. Turns out that was because there wasn't - had to go to the next stop. Bus arrived busy & we only just made it on. Phew. Driver was very chatty - giving instructions and details of stops in her distinctive southern drawl. Decided since we had a seat to push onto the visitor centre. Took in an Imax movie about the canyon - impressive. Came out expecting rain. It wasn't. Walked back but clearly this was where the crowds were. A bit of a chore and we'd probably had a bit too much sun. So back to the lodge for a cool down.Read more

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