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Camino 2024

сентября - октября 2024
  • Karin Jooste
My Camino buddy, Mariette and I will walk the Camino Ingles and then continue onwards to Finisterre and Muxia. Читать далее
  • Karin Jooste

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  • Испания Испания
  • Франция Франция
  • Сингапур Сингапур
  • Австралия Австралия
Категории
Поход, Культура, Дружба, Пешком, Природа, Фотографирование, Самопознание, Достопримечательности, Духовность, Здоровье
  • 36,5кпройденных километры
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  • Полет36,4ккилометров
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  • 20следов
  • 20дней
  • 244фотографий
  • 16лайков
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Сначала новые
  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Family reunion in Santiago de Campostela.
    1View from our window

    Sigueiro to Santiago: +-16 kms

    3 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The last day of our Camino Ingles. We set off early, in complete darkness (just after 6am) to enable us to get to the city before lunch. We thought it was going to be a cruisy day, but surprisingly, had a few unexpected hills to climb.

    Thankfully, the rain stayed away for the day. We were walking in fog for most of the day, which kept the air cool and gave our last day of the Camino Ingles an almost mystic quality. It was great to arrive into the suburbs in foggy weather, as it softened the harsh lines of the city. The noise was a bit of a shock to the system though.

    For the few hours of daylight walking; we appreciated the stunning greeney before arriving into Santiago. Still very much the same scenery, quiet forest walks with lots of running water now visible after all the rain.

    We arrived at around 11am in the cathedral plaza, under the guidance of a single piper. Lots of emotions, mostly relief! Also very proud of us for completing this walk. One down, one to go.

    It was wonderful to hold the Compostela certificate as proof of our walk in our hands. Hats off to the pilgrims office in Santiago with incredibly efficient service. I was #514 (just after 11am! 😳) for the day and the process was very smooth. We spent a few hours in the afternoon to prepare for our second walk that starts tomorrow; Camino Finisterre. Visit to a pharmacy for more band-aids, supermarket to buy yoghurt for breakfast, and the biggest challenge of it all, to get a newspaper to use as stuffing for my wet trail runners.

    We wish we booked another day in Santiago, as our bodies and feet are tired and in need of a rest.

    Then, the best part of the day: My cousin, his wife and daughter (Piet, Jeanette and Michelle) walked the Camino Frances and also finished yesterday. We caught up for dinner (after walking around for at least half an hour to find an open restaurant) and spent a wonderful night together, exchanging Camino and family stories. And here's an example of how small this world is: Michelle teaches at a school in Pretoria, and her school principal is Marriete's (my Camino buddy) husband's cousin! 😲

    Here's our relive (not quite the whole day, as I forgot to turn it on at 6am):
    https://www.relive.cc/view/vJOK5EQj95q    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Mushrooms on a tree trunkOld houses beautifully maintainedSmall personal silos in every garden for corn storage.1

    Santiago to Negreira: +- 24 km

    4 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We bid farewell to Santiago after dropping off our bags at the post office to be transported to our next destination. This service is a life saver. We carry our daypacks with water, rain gear, hats etc with us, while the rest of our luggage is forwarded to our next destination.

    No rain today but apparently tomorrow it'll start again with a vengeance, until the end of our Camino Finisterre.

    It was a foggy morning and we soon left Santiago behind. This new trail is quite different from the Camino Ingles. It is clearly a more affluent demographic, and we see far fewer ruins. People spend more money to maintain the old buildings, or build new ones. We saw a number of manicured gardens, but they are few and far between.

    We walked up a number of steep hills and down again to many tiny villages, some postcard perfect with ancient houses, beautiful rivers and lovely landscapes.

    Mariette and I both struggle with our feet at the moment. They are tired and sore and a few blisters are forming. We headed to the pharmacy as soon as we arrived in Negreira. Thankfully, while on the Camino, every pharmacy has at least one shelf of foot care products. No shortages here.

    Lunch was a delicious baguette with salami and cheese. Dinner was a cheese omelette and Mariette had a salad. Still no great choice on the menu when you try to eat before 9pm but the food we manage to get our hands on is always top shelf.

    Our albergue had a laundry so we also squeezed in a much needed wash and dry cycle before bed.

    I made a Relive but only remembered to turn it off about 3 or 4 hours after our arrival 🙂
    https://www.relive.cc/view/vmqX9Z7zKov    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024

    Negreira to Maroñas: +-21 km

    5 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    'The Camino has provided.' Rain. The Camino provided LOTS of rain. It's relentless!

    It poured most of the day. We had a few hours with less intense rain but it didn't stop. Scenery was still great, though.

    I was expecting to end up with lots of blisters due to increased friction in wet socks, but was mostly fine. I have one small blister on my big toe but will work with it before we start walking tomorrow.

    My cousin Piet's wife Jeanette introduced us to the joy of Compeed. It's patches and toe 'sleeves' made of silicone. Absolute game changer. I bought 2 sleeves for my little toes and no more problems! Dankie Jeanette 😍
    Once we get to civilisation again, we will buy more.

    Also thankful today for Gortex. Gortex shoes and Gortex rain suit. The shoes weren't that effective today but the rain suit kept me pretty dry. Our trail runners are now stuffed with newspaper and drying in front of the fire in the albergue restaurant. Talking about restaurant, we had a hearty 3 course 'menu of the day' dinner, including wine, for Eu 13.

    We chatted with a Dutch lady at dinner. So far we don't socialise that much, as most peregrinos are Spanish speaking, but on our walks so far we have spoken with a couple of Aussies, Dutch, Scandanavian, quite a few Canadians, and one person from England. They are all very entertaining in their own way.

    Mariette and I walk on our own sometimes for a bit of me-time and today being so rainy we each walked at a speed we felt safe at. There was lots of mud, many puddles and we had to balance ourselves with our walking poles not to slip and fall over!

    It was a very challenging day and as I was plodding along, I was wondering if this moment was trying to teach me something. 'Keep on keeping on'? I don't have an answer yet.

    Here's our Relive:
    https://www.relive.cc/view/vPv4dP5K33v    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Our digs last night; Casa Pepa.
    View from our room.Lunch!Geraldine

    Maroñas to Olveiroa: +- 13kms

    6 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was a much easier day: the rain eased off a bit and wasn't pelting us like yesterday, and we had a much shorter distance to cover.

    We met a few very interesting people today. First an older couple from Norway; the husband is about to turn 85 and his wife, 79 years old. They had just completed the Camino Portuguese from Porto 😳 (which is 320kms long) before starting the Camino Finsterre! And here we were patting ourselves on the back for completing the Camino Ingles (about 115kms) before starting the Camino Finsterre! We are both humbled, delighted and inspired by them. They started walking 23 years ago and love it, they have done major walks across Europe including a very tough one in Norway.

    Then we also chatted to a Belgian man who had completed the Camino Primitivo before starting the Finisterre route. We know the Primitivo is considered the toughest of all the Caminos (along the northern coast of Spain) with treks through valleys and mountains. He was telling us it was absolutely freezing in the mountainous parts of the Primitivo, and he found it very challenging. We could see he was in low spirits; he was questioning why he was still walking, with all the rain we are having on the Finisterre route. I felt so sorry for him and did my best to encourage him to keep walking to Muxia and to take a few days' break to recover. I didn't have the heart to tell him that my weather app predicts solid rain until at least next weekend.

    I guess that is the beauty of walking with a friend. We are each other's support all the way. Not once have we considered giving up, even yesterday, which we agree was our toughest day (mentally) so far.

    Then we also met up with the lovely Dutch lady we saw at dinner last night; Geraldine. She is walking 2kms further than us today but we are pretty certain we'll see her again. We found the same thing on Camino Ingles. You tend to meet up with the same people every day.

    Today's walk was great; because it was so much shorter. Our feet are in good shape (to be expected) and we have time to dry our gear before tomorrow morning, when we set off again.

    Plus!! We arrived at the albergue pretty early and knew we were booked into a dorm room, which we don't enjoy that much as there is very limited space. As I handed my card over to pay, I asked if they maybe have a twin room available ( I checked booking.com last night and there was nothing) and yes they did! We were elated, as it includes our own bathroom as well. Brand spanking new.
    The Camino has provided yet again. 'Ask and you shall receive'.

    Lunch was at the albergue, a massive salad. It's been a good day.

    Here's our Relive:
    https://www.relive.cc/view/v1vjYV5z2Yq    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Our Norwegian friends and Mariette plus an American pilgrim.on the right.
    The fork in the road to Finisterre and Muxia.1First sunshine and blue skies in DAYS!Walking in to Cee.3Feet prep every morning.

    Olveiroa to Cee: +- 20km

    7 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We had lunch and dinner at our hostel yesterday and decided to mix it up and have breakfast at another venue in the tiny little village. There we bumped into our Norwegian friends! They were going to take the bus to Cee today as the wife has a blister that is out of control.

    So we walked into a thunderstorm this morning, which was a bit scary. We even contemplated abandoning our walking poles (lightning hazard) but then remembered we had a very steep downhill walking into Cee and we needed them to stabilise ourselves in case of mud. So on we walked with our poles, at a very brisk pace. All about risk management and OH&S.

    It was very windy. Thankfully I had a rope and a carabiner which I tied around my waist to prevent me and my poncho looking like a flying nun.
    Even though the weather forecast was for terrible weather all day, by 11.30am the wind had blown all rain and clouds away. Sunshine at last!! We finished our day in beautiful weather. Our hostel is a bit Spartan so we went out for a pizza and burger.

    Full on rain predicted for the rest of our stay in Spain so we will arrive in Finisterre tomorrow in the rain. We will probably postpone the 5km walk to the lighthouse (kilometre 0; ie the end of the Camino) until Wednesday. The weather will determine.    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    1
    Leaving CeeWhoo!!First view of FinisterreScorpion fish for lunchMy room for the next 2 nights

    Cee to Finisterre: +-14 km

    8 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We have arrived in Finisterre, but haven't walked to the lighthouse (Faro) at the end of the world yet. Nearly there!

    Today's walk started off as dawn was breaking. Well we think so, we couldn't see the sun but it wasn't in complete darkness.

    It was a bitter-sweet walk and we were savouring every step, even when we were again, challenged by rain. Very much the same landscape, beautiful forests, hills and a few flatter, open stretches in between. Lots of running and standing water everywhere.

    We didn't see any of the regulars today, but there is a grumpy Norwegian lady (we have been seeing her for 2 days in a row) who's been barking orders at everyone to get out of the vista as she was trying to take photos. Today I just kept on walking. Enough is enough.

    Our first view of Finisterre was spectacular. We came round a corner and there she was, being pelted by rain just like us. 🙃

    We arrived around noon and walked straight to the harbour area where we found a lovely little restaurant and had fish for lunch. Finisterre is a little fishing village and well known for fresh seafood. Mariette ordered sole and I tried scorpion fish for the first time. Delicious.

    Finisterre will be our base for the next 2 nights. We rented a 2 bedroom apartment and have been astounded how lovely the owners are. Their daughter insisted in picking us up at the restaurant after we finished lunch, then took us to the post office to pick up our baggage and delivered us to the apartment, showed us around with a promise to pick us up again on Thursday to deliver our luggage back to the post office.

    Dinner was at a restaurant 50m from the apartment, which we were thankful for as it was raining very hard.
    There was only one item on the menu: fish and salad, which we were pretty happy about. The restaurant is in winding down mode as they will close for the winter season in 2 days.

    Tomorrow: the lighthouse and off to the tourist office to get our Fisterrana certificates.

    Here's our Relive:
    https://www.relive.cc/view/vrqowAj2Vyq    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    1Finisterre lighthouse. At last!
    Photo: Mariette le RouxIgrexia de Santa Maria. On the way to the lighthouse.Finisterre harbour1And here we are xoFinsterre iconic lighthouse.A bagpiper welcomed us to the lighthouse.Kilometre 0!Let's drink to this!Galician style cod. Delicious.2

    To Finisterre Lighthouse: +-7km return

    9 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We completed the Camino Finisterre today. It feels like a dream, can't believe we did it!

    We patiently waited this morning for the weather to clear. It was foggy and spitting this morning but was forecasted to clear by mid-afternoon. Dealing with Hurricane Kirk at the moment. It seems they are coming through fast and furious.

    We explored Finisterre a bit this morning and visited the tourist office in town and received our Fisteranna certificate after the necessary checks.

    On our way there, we saw our Belgian friend again. He looked happy to see us and seemed very relaxed and in a much improved frame of mind; he completed his walk via Muxia to Finisterre, yesterday. He returns to Santiago tomorrow and then back to Belgium the day after.

    Finally, we set off for the lighthouse at 4pm with beautiful blue skies.

    We arrived at kilometre 0, just before the lighthouse around 5pm. We are very happy but a bit dazed by it all. We had a celebratory glass of wine at the pub next to the lighthouse hotel before walking back down the hill.

    Dinner was Galician style cod at a restaurant at the harbour, then back to our apartment to pack as we catch the bus to Muxia mid-morning tomorrow.

    Friday we are off to Santiago again for the day and Friday night we fly to Paris for 2 days before returning to Melbourne on Monday.

    We are asking ourselves what will we do now? Already, today it felt strange not to be up and about at the crack of dawn, packing our bags and prepping our feet for a long walk. It felt so luxurious to be able to stay in bed a little longer.

    We are planning to keep up our fitness levels though, and are already thinking of another Camino next year. Whether it will happen, time will tell.

    Here's our Relive of today's short walk:
    https://www.relive.cc/view/vMq5gPYp4QO    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Muxia. View from our albergue room.
    American tourist with her compinion Constance Joy.Last stop in Finisterre. Batidor, our favourite cafe.Note the little details, a porcelain cover to keep the mug of tea hot, and a tiny slice of cake!Muxia lighthouseMuxia..spectacular location for a church; sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin.Split stone monument reminder of oil spill from tanker Prestige. It led to the movement Never Again.Santiago de Compostela - homage to the pilgrims' feet carrying them across far lands.Parador, Santiago de Compostela1Cathedral in Santiago. We had fantastic seats.Dos Reis restaurant in the Parador hotel.Lunch!Table linen

    Muxia and Santiago de Compostela

    11 октября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    We had a wonderful last 2 days in Spain.
    Originally we planned to walk to Muxia over 2 days after arriving in Finisterre but shortly before leaving Australia, changed our itinerary to rather have two rest days in Finstere and then take the bus to Muxia instead.

    Our lovely host picked us up at our apartment in Finisterre, and dropped us off at the post office to forward our luggage to Muxia. We walked to our favourite little cafe to have breakfast while waiting for the bus. We then decided to buy tickets to Camariñas instead - a little place that is famous for maintaining old traditons - making handmade bobbin lace. We bought a couple of small examples each and had lunch there (met an interesting American lady in the middle of a diabetic meltdown and helped her to get some food into her) and then took the bus back with her to Muxia.

    Muxia is a beautiful little coastal town as well. Some peregrinos choose to end their walk here so there are quite a few hostels and restaurants. We managed to get an open restaurant at 7pm and had another scrumptious seafood dinner.

    The next morning we caught the 6.15am bus to Santiago and had a laid back morning in Santiago while waiting for the pilgrim mass at noon. We deliberately decided to wait until our very last day and the end of both our caminos to attend. I had never been to a Catholic mass before and wow this was spectacular! And, lo and behold, the botafumeiro was brought into action. Usually this is saved for special occasions like Easter and Christmas but organisations or individuals can pay around $500 and they will then do it. It is a silver thingamajig that hangs from the ceiling that has some sort of fuel with smoke in it and this is pulled by a team of 9 men so it swings to and fro in the cathedral, while some person is singinging and the organ fills the cathedral space. Quite spectacular! Definitely the highlight of the trip. I took a video and will try and figure out a way to share it.

    I researched the purpose of the botafumeiro and here goes:
    According to the Cathedral, the purpose of the Botafumeiro is: “To symbolise the true attitude of the believer. In the same way that the smoke from the incense rises to the top of the temple's naves, so must the prayers of the pilgrims rise to reach the heart of God.

    Then, a very quick lunch at the Parador (converted monastery next to the cathedral) and then off to the airport for our flight to Paris. Realised later I lost my wrist watch on the airport bus. Oh well, another lesson not to attach too much value to earthly goods.
    A truly spectacular day and a great way to wrap up our trip to Spain.    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    La Tour Eiffel
    Flash of autumn along the banks of the SeineLouvre. Winged Victory of Samothrace. Magnificent.Louvre. Venus de Milo.LouvreCrepes for lunch!Seine at Ile de la citèMarche Saint-HonorèMarche Saint-HonorèJardins TuileriesJardins TuileriesPicassoPicasso cubismMonet mural in Musee de L'OrangerieJardins Tuileries

    A weekend in Paris: Day 1

    12 октября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We arrived in Paris on Friday night and went straight to the hotel. Lovely place, Hotel Printemps. Very near a Metro station in a leafy, quiet neighbourhood.

    Saturday was full-on. First we went to the Musee L'Orangerie, awesome. One part of the gallery was designed by Monet himself, to display massive panels of his waterlillies. Unlike anything I have ever seen and definitely recommended. Almost more impressive was a temporary installation: private collection of Heinz Berggruen (the collection now belongs to the German government). He focused on modern artists like Picasso, Matisse and Klem with an astonishing number of Picasso paintings, before and after his cubism period.

    Then we wandered around in the Jardins Tuileries and after that to a street food market Marche St Honorè with beautiful colours, flavours and textures.

    Lunch was a crepe with Nutella and strawberries 🤤

    In the afternoon we had a guided tour through the Louvre. The building is almost more impressive than the art itself! I am not joking when I say there were tens of thousands of people. It was just mind blowing, have never seen so many people in my life. I thought this was the off season! There was a crowd at least 50 people deep in front of the Mona Lisa. I just strolled past, and refused to be part of that circus. There were so many artworks to enjoy and appreciate instead.

    We also booked a quayside dinner on the Seine and then a boat trip to take in the Paris sights at night. The dinner was fine (the service not that fantastic) then a wait of about 40 minutes in the rain with sooo many other people to do the boat trip that ended up being changed due to the Seine almost in flood after all the rain over the past few weeks. At least the Eiffel Tower looked beautiful.

    We got home (at the hotel) at about 10.30pm and fell into bed. Long day on our feet!

    Photos to follow, doesn't upload on hotel wifi for some reason.    Читать далее

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  • Karin JoosteПутешественникCamino 2024
    Beautiful Sacre Coeur.Dalida, a very famous French singer from the 2nd half of last century.Inside the Sacre Coeur.MontmartreMontmartreThis is the cafe where Amelie worked.The only vineyard left in Montmartre

    A weekend in Paris: Day 2

    14 октября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Breakfast at the hotel and then we zoomed off again on the metro for the day. First stop; Jardin du Luxembourg with a beautiful palace and De Medici fountains. A wonderful hour or two walking while people watching and viewing art work in the gardens, people sailing remote control sailboats on the lake, even a French band playing in the rotunda.

    Then walked across the Seine to catch the metro to take us to Montmartre. We passed the Notre Dame along the way; renovations still in full swing. We viewed project photos and were gob smacked at the extensive damage. Reno's have been ongoing for 4 years with planned completion date of December 2024.

    We arrived at Montmartre at the Anvers station; ie at the bottom of the hill. So, the tens of thousands of people who visited the Louvre yesterday, all descended upon Montmartre on Sunday. Unbeknownst to us, it was the harvest festival this weekend. Hundreds of food and mostly wine stalls lining the streets around the Sacre Coeur. We were queuing for about 20 minutes just to walk up the steps to Montmartre.

    We decided if you can't beat them, join them. Lunch was raclette and a glass of wine. Then we spent some time wandering the streets of Montmartre, taking photos and just taking in the sights and enjoying the atmosphere.

    We tried to attend Vespers at the Sacre Coeur at 4pm, for the beautiful music; but there were so many people walking through and talking constantly; that we gave up and left.

    We joined a walking tour at 5pm with a very colourful French lady who told us many interesting facts about the area. Thoroughly enjoyable.

    We hopped back on the Metro and were back home at 8pm. Dinner was a Croque Monsieur. The rest of the night was spent packing and getting ready to leave for the airport (to fly back to Melbourne) first thing in the morning.

    Paris was a great way to end our Camino holiday!    Читать далее

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