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Camper Travel 1974-1975
  • Heinz Imhof
  • Heinz Imhof

Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. Read more
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  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 132 - Santa Elena de Uairen

    September 10, 1974 in Venezuela

    (Ursula) We seem to be the only travelers on this road.

    It rained almost all night, but we were awakened by bright sunshine. The night was pleasantly cool, and we slept well. I would have loved to stay here for an extra day. It was wonderful to have clean water and a level platform right in front of the “house” in the middle of nowhere.

    Ninety minutes later, we reached Santa Elena de Uairen, a small town, before crossing the border into Brazil. We met a young German couple traveling in a Ford Truck-Camper headed for Caracas on the way there. They just came from Brazil and updated us on the road condition.

    We had to wait in Santa Elena until after the Siesta to obtain an exit stamp from the Venezuelan transit police. Then we drove to the border, where the Brazilian Military permitted us to enter the country. The road on the Brazilian side wasn’t much different from the last two days.

    As we reached lower elevations, the climate changed to sub-tropical and tropical with high humidity. We stayed overnight on the banks of a river, but it wasn’t as pleasant as the day before.

    Tons of tiny black insects were trying to eat us alive. We locked ourselves in the camper and were thankful for the Mosquito screens!

    Stats: Miles 122, Expenses $12.22    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 133 - Arriving in Boa Vista

    September 11, 1974 in Brazil

    The jungle gradually became denser, then suddenly opened up, and we found ourselves on the outskirts of Boa Vista, the most Northern town of the Brazilian Amazon. We estimate the population to be about 40,000.

    We stayed overnight at a house belonging to an Airline captain. His hospitality was amazing, and it took him a while to understand that we preferred to sleep in our camper and not in his house. We hope he wasn't offended.

    Portuguese sounded melodic, but we had no clue what people were saying. It didn't sound like Spanish or any other language we knew. We guessed that it must be the pronunciation. We were confident that we would learn and figure it out as we go.

    Boa Vista used to be a mining town in the old days. The people seemed relatively poor but very friendly and helpful.

    We received a stamp for our passports from the Immigration Office and had to wait until the next day to get the Transit Permit. The office has apparently run out of printing paper.

    Stats: Miles 94, Expenses $14.60    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 134 - Caught in a Dire Situation

    September 12, 1974 in Brazil

    This morning, we received our transit permit and had all the legal must-haves to travel through Brazil.

    We didn't waste any time and headed straight for Caracarai, a small Indian village on the Rio Branco, hoping to find a boat to Manaus. The three-hour drive was exhausting because of poor road conditions and flooded areas. There wasn't much to see, just rain forest and an occasional straw hut on the side of the road.

    In Caracarai, we went from boat to boat but couldn't find anything suitable. One merchant wanted too much money. Another one couldn't accommodate our camper. A third one agreed to take us, but he first went upstream to Boa Vista. But later in the afternoon, we found a boat that would leave in two days and was reasonably priced.

    We were relieved and went for a leisurely drive through the village's main street, looking for a place to eat. Suddenly, I heard a noise. Unbeknownst to us, a boy playing marbles with his back to the road didn't hear us pass, and when he stepped into the road, his ankle got caught by the rear tire. I looked in the side mirror and saw him laying on the ground holding his foot.

    We pulled over immediately and ran to him. A terrible picture! He was in severe pain and screaming. The heel's skin was peeled back, and the ankle looked out of alignment.

    I quickly fetched our first-aid kit and covered his foot with a sterile bandage (military training).

    Indians started rushing out of their huts, and an angry mob quickly surrounded us. Everyone screamed and made fists. Then the village police chief appeared barefoot in gym shorts and a bare torso. He took us into the police hut, pointed at handcuffs, and screamed at us.

    We were terrified and unfortunately couldn't understand anything he was saying. But it didn't sound good.

    I used sign language to make the chief understand that the boy needed medical attention as quickly as possible. I offered to transport him to the hospital back in Boa Vista. That took a while to sink in, but he finally understood. Meanwhile, Mother Theresa from the Catholic school had given the boy some Morphine.

    We drove to Boa Vista as quickly as the road allowed. The boy was laying down in the back of the camper, moaning. He was accompanied by a nurse who gave him more Morphine from time to time.

    It was close to midnight when we arrived in Boa Vista. The hospital was alerted and took care of the boy immediately. And yes, the local police had also been alerted and wanted to arrest us. But I knew we didn't do anything wrong and insisted on speaking to the head of the Transit police, Mr. Zimmerman.

    Fortunately, we had met him the day before when we obtained the Transit Permit. Zimmerman was initially raised in Porto Alegre (in southern Brazil with a sizeable Ex-German population) and understood a little German. From my conversation with Mr. Zimmerman, it became clear that the people in Caracarai had made false accusations. They claimed our car hit the boy while speeding.

    We stated the true facts to Mr. Zimmerman, and he took notes. Then he said we would have to be grounded at the police station until an interrogation could occur. Any traffic accident in Brazil requires a process, whether guilty or not.

    We had to hand over the car keys, passports, and Transit Permit to the local police chief.

    He allowed us to park the camper in a covered parking lot behind the prison. I presented the police chief with our Insurance Policy, which seemed irrelevant. I don't think he even knew what it was.

    None of us slept well that night. What a terrible thing to happen! How will it end?

    Stats: Miles 182, Expenses $0.00    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 135 - Visit to the hospital

    September 13, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) We were just on the way to the hospital to visit the boy when we ran into Joe and Diane Butler, missionaries from Boston, whom we had briefly met on the day of arrival in Boa Vista.

    After filling them in on what happened, Joe suggested we take his friend (a Priest) along, who could assist us. He accompanied us to the hospital and introduced us to a nurse who would translate for us at the upcoming trial.

    The priest and the nurses were friendly and helpful in communicating with us and the family. The head nurse said the boy was still recovering and would be better to visit him another day.

    The attending surgeon told us it had been a complicated surgery and it was too early to predict an outcome. But he assured us that he did his best. We felt terrible for the boy and hope he is in the best medical hands.

    At the police station, Wally changed the oil and adjusted the valve clearance. We spotted a dripping shower on the back wall of the jail and took turns standing under the slightly cooler water.

    Today is Independence Day in the state of Roraima. Occasionally, we hear drums and music from music groups walking through the streets. To me, it sounded more like organized noise!

    In the evening, a young woman came over to chat with me and later brought us fruits and cold juice. I thought that was amazing. The less people have, the more they are willing to share, even if it is with total strangers.

    Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $0.00    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 136 - Hospital Visit - Waiting

    September 14, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) There was nothing special to write about for today. We were still in shock and grounded at the Police station.

    The police had an emergency early morning and woke us up with their sirens.

    People often stop by our camper and seem puzzled by the names Europa and Suiza on the camper’s roof. I was getting a little annoyed having to explain what it meant. One gentleman noticed the Swiss flag painted on our spare wheel and wouldn’t understand why we didn’t carry medication for his illness.n Heinz and I went back to the hospital in the afternoon l to check on the boy. Unfortunately, the language barrier made it impossible to communicate with him, and nobody was there to assist with the translation.

    We left a chocolate bar by his bed and felt terrible for the poor boy. The nurses assured us he was well taken care of and needed time to rest and heal.

    After we returned to our car, the lady from the day before brought us soup and more delicious cold juice, we purchased a dish of rice and meat from a street vendor. Then I sewed and washed and occasionally talked to people that stopped by to visit.

    We visited the Butlers in the evening and discussed their mission and faith. Joe gave us a Bible, and Diane packed a little piece of Edam cheese in a bag to take home. I thought that was so thoughtful of them.

    Before sleeping, I wondered how long we would have to wait here.

    Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $0.50    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 137 - Birthday in Detention

    September 15, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) We are still grounded, waiting for a trial date.

    Heinz and I returned to the hospital after a savory breakfast with Edam cheese and eggs. Francisco had been transferred to the Pediatric section and had a companion about his age in the room. Again, we could not converse with him, but he smiled and seemed happy that we came to visit. The nurse told us that he had developed a light fever. It was part of the healing process. He had been given medication and was doing fine otherwise.

    Today we were invited to the Butlers for lunch. It was a birthday celebration for Heinz (29). The food Diane prepared for us was absolutely delicious - we hadn’t had anything so tasty in a long time. We stayed the entire afternoon at their house and had long conversations. Their little daughter Sarah had a doctor’s appointment later in the afternoon, and Diane dropped us off at our camper on the way there.

    We were so fortunate to have the Butlers for support.

    Our friend Arletti came over again in the evening and brought us something to eat. Then she invited us to her house, where we listened to music and watched cartoons on TV. She showed me the glass-bead necklaces she was handcrafting and absolutely insisted that I pick one for myself. Her kindness touched my heart!

    Wally smelled an inviting odor from the outdoor grill and went to investigate. He thinks it’s either turtle meat or giant frog legs.

    I hope Heinz doesn’t have to celebrate his next birthday with half his foot almost in prison!

    Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $0.00    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 138 - Good News

    September 16, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) Maybe it was a late birthday present for Heinz.

    Transit police chief Zimmerman arrived at the station to talk to us. He explained the normal trial process, which could sometimes take up to 30 days.

    However, an eyewitness from Caracarai had come forward to corroborate our statement about the accident. Therefore, it was clear that we were not at fault and the case against us would be dropped if we were willing to share a portion of the hospital cost with the boy's parents.

    Wow, a heavy load fell off our chests, and we thanked Chief Zimmerman for this excellent news and his efforts on our behalf.

    Although his job was done, he helped us negotiate a settlement with the boy's parents and the hospital. We agreed to pay the equivalent of $53 cash to the boy's parents.

    And with that, we could leave, but we needed to get the car keys, passports, and transit permits. The chief of police (we called him Schnauz because he always snapped at everyone) intentionally made things difficult for us. At first, he couldn't find our car keys and passports. Then he announced that he needed a few days to get the transit permits. What? Did they run out of paper again?

    Anyway, we had things to do before leaving town. Joe Butler picked us up and drove us to a Veterinarian to get a shot for Büsi, who was still not well. On the way back, we stopped at the port and made a reservation for a boat, "Rudolfo," that would take us from Caracarai to Manaus. Then we stopped by the butcher and purchased steaks for dinner.

    After dinner, we were invited to Joe and Diane for a cold drink and Bible study. I often thought religion was boring, but the discussions about the Christian Faith were very interesting. I knew that both of them were well-educated and good people, which made it easier for me to understand their beliefs and respect their opinions.

    They gave us another Bible upon leaving, and their friend Ron handed us a bunch of ripe bananas from the jungle. We were so grateful to the Butlers for everything they had done for us. They never told us, but in hindsight, it is possible that they worked on our behalf through local church connections.

    Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $20.30    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 139 - Leaving Boa Vista

    September 17, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) After "Schnauz" reluctantly handed over our belongings, we said goodbye to all the folks who had supported us: Transit Police Chief Zimmerman (we gifted him a bottle of rum from Venezuela), policeman Moises who witnessed the accident, Arletti, who had provided us with food every day, Walo's friends, Ron (who gave us bananas and three jars of homemade fig jam), and the missionaries Joe and Diane Buttler.

    Then we visited the boy, Francisco, at the hospital one last time. He was upbeat and all smiles, giving us hope and making us feel better. He could already wiggle his toes a bit, which we took as a good sign. I wished we could have stayed until he fully recovered.

    Then we quickly visited the church to pray and left town. When we got to Caracaraí we first stopped by Francisco's parents. We had mixed feelings about being confronted with them and didn't know what to expect. But it went over smoothly. We handed them the cash we had agreed upon.

    The family was operating a banana business. We purchased a large stem from them that probably weighed over 20 pounds. It will be our primary food source during the upcoming boat trip to Manaus.

    Büsi is not feeling better after yesterday's shot at the Vet. We feel so bad for the poor thing. If he could only tell us what to do!

    Stats: Miles 92, Expenses $70.43    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 140 - Caracarai

    September 18, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) We spent the whole day waiting for "Rudolfo" from Boa Vista.

    The constant heat and humidity made us thirsty. So, while Heinz stayed at the port on the lookout for the boat, Wally and I found a bar that served cold drinks. The hostess was originally from British Guiana and spoke English. We had a nice chat with her and got introduced to Cachaça, the Brazilian national drink. It’s sugar cane brandy mixed with lime juice, sugar, and mint. A little buzz was just what we needed after the stress and worries from the last few days. Wally thought it tasted great and purchased a bottle for the road.

    The day passed, and “Rudolfo" never showed up. However, shortly before dark, a tugboat with an attached barge docked and agreed to take us along. We negotiated a reasonable price of $83 with the captain.

    At dusk, Wally navigated the camper over two narrow wood planks onto the barge. It was very highly risky and could have ended in tragedy. Heinz guided him with hand signals, and I was holding my breath!!!

    The boat took off shortly after midnight gliding downriver toward Manaus.

    Stats: Miles 3, Expenses $66.20    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 141 - Floating towards Manaus

    September 19, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) It was so peaceful to wake up floating on the river.

    I saw nothing but dense jungle on either shore and occasionally spotted a hut or small settlement.

    (Heinz) After breakfast (pancakes with bananas), we joined the captain for coffee. For added safety, he had his crew secure the vehicles' axles to the barge with chains so it couldn’t accidentally slip off.

    Wally and I took photographs of the jungle and the tugboat with the attached barge. It looked good, almost like a moving platform on the waters of the Rio Branco. Since there was enough water around, we took advantage and thoroughly scrubbed our “home” from top to bottom.

    Ursula got busy and washed our clothes and bed sheets. The little bananas from Caracari tasted delicious. We even had them for lunch and dinner!

    September 20th
    (Heinz) The boat traveled all during the night while we slept. This morning we found ourselves floating on the Rio Negro (Black River), and indeed, the watercolor appeared darker than on the Rio Branco (White River).

    It was also much wider, almost like a lake. Sometimes we thought we could see the other shore, only to realize later that it was just an island.

    When I attempted to scoop water from the river with our large cooking pot, it filled up so quickly at the speed we were going, and the rope slipped out of my hands. A souvenir from us is now laying at the bottom of the Rio Negro!

    Wally picked up a foot fungus or something. It's itching, and he regularly dabs the affected areas with medication. Ouch!

    Büsi is not feeling better, and I discovered worms in her poop, which is not good.

    The captain announced that if everything went according to plan, we would arrive in Manaus shortly after midnight.    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 142 - Arrival in Manaus

    September 21, 1974 in Brazil

    We woke up bright and early in the morning from rattling noises and saw the crew removing the safety chains. We were indeed already docked at the port in Manaus. After breakfast, we said our goodbyes to the crew and paid the captain.

    Then Wally started the engine and drove the camper over wooden planks off the barge and up a steep embankment. From there, we followed signs to the airport, where we obtained a map to orient ourselves and know where we were going.

    Manaus was home to about 90,000 people and looked relatively poor to us. It was located in the heart of the Amazon jungle and was initially developed during the rubber boom. A few years ago, Manaus was designated a Free Trade Zone to attract more commerce and development.

    The climate was hot and highly humid.

    We hung out the whole afternoon with the local crowd at Punta Negra, a river beach where we also camped for the night. Stats: Miles 38, Expenses $97.90

    September 22nd
    The night wasn’t tranquil at Punta Negra. It was the weekend, and the locals partied all night.

    We spent the day swimming and relaxing. Brazilians were a lively bunch of people. Music, dance, and fun seem to run in their blood. They were easy to talk to. A group of locals were grilling a large fish over an open fire pit and invited us to try some. We eagerly accepted because we had no food besides bananas and were quite hungry.

    That same evening our Büsi passed away. It was heartbreaking! I dug a grave high on the Amazon River bank and marked the spot with a makeshift cross. She is in Büsi heaven now. It hurts me that he had to suffer so much. Maybe his life would have been better in Guatemala?

    Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $0.30    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 143 - New Travel Companions

    September 23, 1974 in Brazil

    We met the German couple during food shopping, whom we briefly met at the Venezuela/Brazil border 11 days ago. They could not get a work permit in Venezuela and returned to Brazil. They plan to travel to Rio de Janeiro as we do. We agreed to stick together since we were headed for the same destination.

    Peter & Ute joined us at the DER (Department of Streets and Roads) to inquire about the road from Manaus to Brasilia and obtaining a transit permit.

    The DER informed us that a transit permit was unnecessary, and the road was closed because of flooding. I expected that could be the case since the rainy season was delayed this year.

    What were we going to do now? We certainly didn't want to hang around in Manaus for a month or more until the road opened. Thus, I'm planning to talk to the DER director tomorrow about the possibility of traveling to Humaitá on the river Rio Madeira to bypass the flooded section of the road.

    The campsite where Peter & Ute were staying was great. It had toilets and a natural spring that they used for drinking water and showering. We decided to stay there as well and made ourselves comfortable.

    After dinner, we talked with our new companions and got to know them better.

    Stats: Miles 30, Expenses $22.70    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 146 - Dr. Holanda

    September 24, 1974 in Brazil

    Today we returned to the DER.

    This time the director Dr. Holanda was in the office. We introduced ourselves as photographers from Germany and Switzerland on a mission to explore the Waterways of Brazil. We asked him about possibly traveling up the Rio Madeira to Humaitá. His response gave us hope.

    He indicated because of the high water level, it was actually a good time of the year to reach Humaitá by boat and that he might be able to arrange for us to get a ride with an upcoming government transport, free of charge.

    That sounded great. He promised to have news for us in a few days.

    Afterward, we went to a market near the harbor. We need to have enough food and supplies for about ten days if this river journey should become a reality. We stocked up on essential items and come back another time, closer to the departure date.

    Wally purchased a nice hammock. Then we visited the Amazon-Indian Museum and bought a few souvenirs.

    As we passed the airport, we could observe an air show of single-engine war planes doing aerobatics in the sky. Wow, that was so unexpected in the middle of the Amazon.

    Stats: Miles 31, Expenses $23.70    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 147 - The Pirate

    September 25, 1974 in Brazil

    Peter & Ute took their tiny Macaco monkey to the Vet. The poor thing could barely move his hind legs.

    Then later in the afternoon, we returned to the DER. And just in time!

    Dr. Holanda informed us that a government transport was arriving within the next hour and we should hurry to the port.

    A local friend, who he called "The Pirate," came along to help with the translation. When we arrived at the port, the boat hadn't arrived yet, and an official informed us it was on its way but had to stop to repair the rudder. We should come back in the morning for a "progress update."

    The Pirate turned out to be quite a nationalist.

    We stopped at a bar on the way to his home and had a few beers. Two young Swiss teachers who were also traveling the Amazon joined our table. The bunch of us listened intently to the Pirate. He talked a lot about this beautiful country, its government, its people, and its rise to be the #1 country in South America. Boy, was he right about that!

    Manaus, for example, was declared a Free Trade Zone so more people would settle in this region. Foreigners were very welcome, he proclaimed. He said they could quickly start a company with a 51% Brazilian partner.

    He surely was 150% Brazilian, or was it the beer? I've never heard anyone talk so passionately about his country with such conviction. He was very excited about Brazil's progress in the marketplace, and winning our hearts seemed important to him.

    Stats: Miles 25, Expenses $49.21    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 148 - Manaus Departure

    September 26, 1974 in Brazil

    We moved our camp closer to the port last night so we wouldn’t miss the boat if it arrived early.

    I didn’t sleep well because I had one too many beers yesterday. Wally slept in his new hammock for the first time and said he only woke up once.

    By 11 AM, there was still no news about the boat. So, Peter, Wally, and I went fishing off the pier. But we didn’t have to bathe the lures for very long.

    Around 3 PM, Ursula had just served us a delicious vegetable soup when we spotted a boat that looked like it could be ours. It was a tugboat pushing two huge metal barges loaded with concrete bags.

    An official came over to confirm that it was ours and that we could board any time. We packed up our stuff and were on board within an hour. Our campers are parked in a bit of space at the back end of the first barge.

    The transport sailed off that night while we were asleep. The captain had apparently been briefed that we were officially on board as European photographers, documenting the Amazon waterways.

    It was a miracle that a solution presented itself within just a few days, allowing us to continue the journey.

    A little BS does work sometimes.

    Stats: Miles 18, Expenses $0.45    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 149 - Amazon River & Rio Madeira

    September 27, 1974 in Brazil

    Our first day on the river was very eventful, to say the least! If this is an indication of the days ahead, we are in for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

    Waking up this morning, we were moving downriver at full speed. The two barges were tied together in line and pushed by the tugboat. The ride was fairly quiet; we hardly heard the engine noise. The barges were made of heavy steel and loaded to the max. They seemed very stable and didn't sway much at all.

    It was interesting to observe the colors of the waters mixing at the point where the Rio Negro merged into the Amazon. It looked like coffee with cream!

    Around noontime, we docked in Sol Nascente, a small fishing village, where the cook stocked up on dried, salted fish. Shortly after that, we turned left and headed upstream into the Rio Madeira. We will follow this river to our destination, the town of Humaitá. From there, we should hopefully be able to continue by road to Brasilia's capital.

    Toward the evening, as we were playing cards, a strong wind gust lifted off the tarp covering the concrete bags. Within seconds a massive cloud of concrete dust pushed toward us, and we quickly jumped into our vans for safety. After the storm, the crew fixed the tarps and broken ropes.

    Hours later, when it was already dark, we heard the tugboat's warning horn blaring, and seconds later, we partially rammed a boat that was moving downstream. The other boat apparently wasn't paying attention and saw us only at the last moment. Fortunately, it could maneuver quickly enough to avoid a full collision. Our barge only had a dent in the steel at the front end. The other boat probably wasn't so lucky - we heard wooden boards cracking and angry shouts.

    This could have been a disaster!

    And then something funny happened. We were already tucked in bed when we heard flapping noises on the deck. When I investigated what was going on, I had to laugh so hard. A school of flying fish had jumped on board. I collected a total of 15 fish in a bucket. It will be a good lunch for tomorrow. I thought it must be a gift from God because we had fished all afternoon the previous day and didn't catch anything.

    Earlier in the afternoon, we observed a group of River Dolphins following our convoy for a while. We didn't know that Dolphins exist in these waters. They do and are called Bufeo.    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 150 - Moving up the River

    September 28, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) Today was slightly cloudy and a bit cooler.

    Around noon we passed a large transport ship stuck on a sandbank. Our captain decided to help them out. He tied our barges to the shore and went with the tugboat to pull them off. That's how they help each other out - unspoken rules - common courtesy. Who knows, we may need help, too.

    The flying fish made for a nice lunch today. Despite the thousand little bones, they tasted very good with my homemade potato salad. The only one who disagreed was my brother. He was in dire stress with those "damn" bones.

    At one point, the captain went the wrong way at a fork in the river and had to engage in a complicated maneuver to turn us around. While the barge was standing still, we had a chance to jump in the river to cool off. The crew did the same, and we took that as an assurance that there were no Piranhas around. It felt so good and refreshing.

    Ute & Peter taught us a new card game called Mau-Mau. It is lots of fun! Their little monkey Mika was doing better, sitting at our table and having fun unraveling a roll of toilet paper.

    The view from the boat was pretty much the same every day. The river sometimes narrowed, then became wider again. Dense jungle on both sides as far as the eye could see. Once in a while, we spotted a straw hut or small settlement.

    It must be nice to live so peacefully here on the river banks. I was wondering how long we would last. In the evening, we observed dark clouds moving toward us. Might it be a thunderstorm? The captain took no chances and docked near a small settlement.

    And immediately, there were millions of mosquitoes upon us. We stayed inside the camper for safety. The storm was over after about two hours, but the mosquitoes were relentless. They were trying to penetrate through every tiny space of the windows and mosquito screens.

    We were hungry and wanted to eat at the settlement restaurant but didn't dare to venture outside.

    A little past midnight, our transport continued moving upriver. There was a little breeze on deck, and I took the opportunity to take a quick bathroom break. But even at the front end of the barge, those little monsters were merciless!    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 152 - Novo Aripuanã

    September 30, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) After waking up, we noticed our transport was docked.

    The name of the town was Novo Aripuanã. We jumped into the river for our morning shower. Novo Aripuanã was where the Rio Aripuanã joined the Rio Madeira. Rio Aripuanã was the River Theodore Roosevelt traveled in 1914, his expedition barely escaping death.

    Today, I brought our journal up-to-date and desperately searched for a lost day. We somehow skipped September 29. Maybe the mosquito bites robbed me of some memory!

    Novo Aripuanã has about 3,500 inhabitants, and about 3,000 more live in the rainforest surrounding it. We went ashore with the captain, who introduced us to the Mayor, barefoot and still in his pajamas. He said he was having the flu (to us, it looked more like a hangover).

    He led us on a village tour and allowed us to visit the new hospital. Strangely, it was not in operation, but we saw massive medical supplies from an American foundation. The Mayor mumbled something about trouble getting medical personnel.

    Later we visited an American pastor who invited us into his home and served us beer and cocktail nuts. Peter & Ute took advantage and consumed more than one serving. That was outrageous of them and very unpolite.

    In the evening, we had fun with more games of Mau-Mau and more of the nuts the pastor had given them for the "road."

    Tonight, the ship docked because of sandbanks and rocks. We feared a new onslaught of mosquitoes, but that was not the case. And so we all went for a refreshing dip in the river at full moon. It was reckless to do so because we didn't know if any Piranhas were around.    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day - 153 Rio Madeira, Manicoré

    October 1, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) We left Manaus five days ago and are about halfway to our destination.

    Today was cloudy. The Rio Madeira became much narrower, and we could see where the water channel was deeper and where the sandbanks were—the morning passed without anything special.

    Wally caught fish yesterday in Manicoré, using pieces of banana as bait. The crew’s cook showed me a unique technique to prepare this type of fish so we would barely notice the little bones. Wally was very pleased with that, of course!

    Heinz was taking an afternoon nap. Walo sat in his hammock and read a book. I was showing Ute how to play the Patience game. Her little monkey was nibbling on our journal; he loves paper.

    After a rainstorm in the afternoon, the skies cleared up again. Our transport carefully navigated upriver by moonlight and docked late at night at Manicoré. Luckily, there were almost no mosquitoes.

    October 2nd
    (Ursula) Shortly before noon, we were gliding upriver again. I was glad about the wind because it was hot and humid.

    Heinz, Wally, and Peter were shooting movies and taking pictures (or at least pretending) daily and occasionally interacted with the captain and crew members. We must live up to our pretext and give the impression that we were European photographers documenting the Amazon waterways!

    I’m preparing the two catfish for lunch that Heinz caught this morning. Catfish taste so much better that we decided not to settle for smaller fish anymore.

    Afternoon: relaxing, playing cards, reading, cloth washing. The ship’s crew must have been wondering what there was to wash all the time - I see them daily in the same shorts and t-shirts. Yuck!

    For dinner, I prepared something different for a change: an appetizer, then potatoes with Sauerkraut and Frankfurter sausages out of a can.

    What a treat!    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 155 - Longing for fresh Fruits

    October 3, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) The transport docked late last night while we were sleeping. It was by a small village. Heinz and I went on shore to have a look around. It was precisely how I had imagined a jungle village—straw huts between trees and plants.

    There was no market for fresh produce, but a little Indian man led us barefoot past a Farinha plantation on a narrow clay path to his jungle hut. His wife sold us fresh watermelons, bananas, and oranges. We couldn’t wait to taste this deliciousness. What a treat after so many days of basically eating rice and fish!

    The tugboat detached and went upriver to refuel. The journey continued ...

    Now that our river cruise was ending, we were convinced we could endure it even longer. But I wonder how much longer that would be. Haha!

    As we passed a few sandbanks, we could observe magnificent specimens of Bufeo in the clear water. Sometimes they played around and jumped out of the water in a high arc.

    What else is new? We had fish again for lunch, but today we only ate fillets. It was actually much better without bones.

    At 8 PM, we had to dock because of poor visibility and the risk of running aground. Heinz and Peter went night fishing and caught a baby Bufeo by accident. They let it slip back into its element.

    Expenses $1.85.    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 156 - A new little Kitten

    October 4, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) Today was nice on the river, sometimes sunny, sometimes cloudy, and a bit cooler.

    The barges got stuck on a sandbank, but after some maneuvering techniques, we got back into the deep channel again.

    Ute and I sat at the front of the barge chatting when she suddenly asked: didn’t you tell us you were planning to be in Peru at the end of November? I said yes; why? According to her travel guide, she said that would put us at the beginning of Peru’s rainy season.

    I’m so glad she picked up on that because our guide either didn’t mention that, or Heinz missed it. If this was true, we have to extend our trip. But would we have enough money to allow for that? At the moment, I could only think of skipping Patagonia. We had to brainstorm this chapter and adjust our plans but decided to sleep on it for now.

    We are docked for the night near a small settlement with a bar. I prepared an early dinner with rice and peas under the constant attack of mosquitoes.

    Later on, Heinz, Peter, and Wally went to the bar to play pool. And what did Heinz bring back for me? A cold beer? No, a new little kitten!    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 157 - Arriving at Humaitá

    October 5, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) I was just about to ask Heinz if we should bring back the little cat when I realized the boat was already moving upstream. He is a strong little tomcat. Looks like a lion baby, only a month old and still a little topsy.

    After thinking more about Bolivia and Peru, we decided to continue the trip for now, just as planned. If it turns out that the Altiplano isn't safe for driving, we will use the local means of transportation to visit the area.

    October 6th
    (Ursula) The mosquitoes bothered us all night, and we woke up a bit late this morning, receiving news from the captain that we had arrived at our destination.

    Yeee!

    We thanked him for taking us along, handed him a tip, and said goodbye to all. A ferry transferred the campers to a landing spot which unfortunately wasn't that great because of a long, steep embankment (and it was slippery too).

    But with the help of the crew and all of us pushing, we managed to make it to the top. Wow, what a feeling, looking down at the Rio Madeira and being on solid ground, able to drive on the road again.

    We didn't stay in Humaitá for very long and headed toward Porto Velho on the 319. It was still a dirt road in good condition, and we passed the flooded areas.

    As the sun set, it looked like the sky was on fire. We found a rest area on top of a small hill. Heinz and Peter grilled the last catfish. It was a big one that provided more food than the five of us could handle.

    By 9 PM, it was pitch dark, and we listened to a loud jungle concert all around us. It was like a continuous howling, croaking, chirping, and whistling. Then the concert would abruptly stop as if someone had given a command. A few seconds later, the same spectacle started all over again. It was pretty mysterious.

    Stats: Miles 39, Expenses $4    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 161 - Moving along

    October 9, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) Not much significance happened during the last two days and 348 miles.

    We intended to leave early this morning, but Wally had to fix a flat tire from yesterday. It was noon by the time we hit the road again.

    We stopped by a farm and purchased Pineapples, Manjoca, and Brazil Nuts. At the next village, we filled up our fresh water tank. Heinz also found a suitable cardboard box we could fill with sand as a bathroom for the little kitten. Later, Peter noticed we had another flat tire - no joke!

    We found a nice little spot where we could camp for the night on a hill that offered a view of the surrounding rainforest.

    Ute and Ursula cooked Manjoca pea soup with sausages over a campfire. Then we savored fresh pineapple for dessert and chatted until midnight while admiring the stars in the southern sky.    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 162 - Another flat Tire

    October 10, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) I had a restless night's sleep. Heinz and I suffer from diarrhea; unfortunately, Ute's condition hasn't improved either.

    We took the necessary steps to address the issue. We disposed of the suspect drinking water from yesterday and disinfected the tank using chlorine tablets. Meanwhile, we must boil the water before using it or opting for tea and coffee. This may be challenging due to our dwindling cooking fuel supply.

    As we reached the border between Amazonas and Mato Grosso, we encountered an officer dressed in gym shorts and a white undershirt conducting a car inspection. We were uncertain about what he was searching for, but everything seemed in order, except for the fact that we had yet another flat tire.

    The vulcanized seam of the inner tube had come apart, but luckily, we found a replacement at a nearby tire shop. This marked the fourth flat tire in just three days, a testament to the rough terrain and the potential presence of construction debris on these dirt roads. Or was the debris placed purposely?

    Today's drive seemed long. The landscape became hillier, resembling La Grand Sabana in Venezuela more than the lush rainforest. The road was riddled with potholes and corrugated sections that sent vibrations through our bodies with every bump.

    We were relieved when darkness fell, and we finally located a place to spend the night. It was a welcome opportunity to stretch my aching limbs!

    Travel Stats: 129 miles - Expenses $1.20    Read more

  • Heinz ImhofCamper Travel 1974-1975Traveler

    Day 163 - Reaching Guiabá

    October 11, 1974 in Brazil

    (Ursula) This morning we noticed yet another flat tire. This has become a daily occurrence since we got on the road again.

    It was pretty annoying and time-consuming, plus we don’t need additional exercises when it’s so hot and humid. Ute & Peter were unhappy having to wait for us each time. We appreciate their patience and understanding.

    Today, we had the opportunity to fill up the water tank with (safe) drinking water, and in the afternoon, we stopped by a wonderful brook with crystal-clear cool water for a refreshing bath.

    The road wasn’t quite as bad as it was yesterday. However, we were driving slower because our companions were about to run out of gas and needed to conserve fuel.

    We reached the city of Guiabá, where we stopped for gas and food. It felt so lovely to drive on smoothly paved city streets. What a treat!

    Stats: Miles 315, Expenses $17.35    Read more

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