Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. Читать далее

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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 250 - La Paz, Bolivia
6 января 1975 г., Боливия
Büsi didn't return to the camper last night. We called for him and searched the area again this morning, but he was nowhere to be found. The farmer's children had no idea of his whereabouts either. We have a theory about his sudden disappearance but prefer not to put it in writing. It's too painful to even think about it.

On the way to La Paz, we offered a ride to an Indio man. He wasn't very talkative, and we doubted he even understood Spanish. Most native people in this region speak only Quechua (the Andes dialect).

We followed Route #1, which ran parallel to the Cuzco - La Paz railway line, and survived three police checkpoints along the way.

The view of La Paz from the rim above, where the airstrip was, was most impressive. The city sat in a giant crater with corrugated roof slums climbing up on all sides around it.

Hotel Italia was easy to find (recommended by Germans we met in Argentina). We rented a room and couldn't wait to take the hot shower we needed. Then we went for a stroll through the bustling city center.

Diesel trucks and buses emitted horrible blackish exhaust. Very few machines or automation were present. Almost everything here seems to be done by manual labor. Heavily loaded carts with wooden wheels were pulled by horses, donkeys, or people. It seemed Bolivia was stuck in a time 20 years back.

(Ursula) The stroll was quite successful. After comparing prices at different markets, we bought Heinz and me a scarf, gloves, a sweater, and a vest. I fell in love with an ancient woven Indio fabric (wall hanging/tablecloth) at another market. The quality of the handmade items was incredible, and they were reasonably priced.

Loaded with packages under our arms, we returned to the Hotel and had dinner.
Stats: Miles 53, Expenses $32.60

January 7th - 8th
(Ursula) These two days, we wrote letters and postcards to our friends and family.

In between, we went sightseeing and stopped at our favorite juice stand in front of the Mercado Artisanal. I loved my freshly squeezed Carrot juice. On the other hand, Heinz preferred the banana drink with condensed milk and honey. He is such a "sweet" hubby.

Eli's Confitería offered German potato salad and Sausages. We also found a specialty store that carried exquisite herbal teas from the Andes region.

Expenses $19.30.Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 253 - Tiahuanacu
9 января 1975 г., Боливия
(Ursula) We wanted to leave early this morning for a sightseeing tour of the Altiplano, but our camper was blocked by six other cars. It would likely take a while until we could get it out.

So, we went for a walk. We purchased a tire repair kit after our usual drinks at the juice stand. Our walk turned into a more extended "thing." I bought a sweater for myself and a lovely Bolivian poncho. We were so into shopping that we didn't realize it was noon.

After purchasing jeans and a t-shirt for the two farm children, we hurried back to the Hotel. As expected, the cars that blocked us earlier were gone.

We navigated our way out of the city and headed toward Tiahuanacu.

The road was OK, and even though it rained initially, the clouds eventually lifted, and a blue sky appeared. That indeed lifted my spirit. In Laja, we stopped to visit the famous church where thieves had recently stolen valuable paintings. How they could have transported such massive objects and gone undetected remains a mystery, especially with all the Police checkpoints. I'm thinking of the word corruption! The peculiarity of the church was the massive altar, clad in pure silver, and I thought the church vault was also unique.

The monolithic Sun Gate of Tiahuanacu was disappointing. We have imagined it much more significant. Apart from numerous giant stone blocks laying scattered on the ground, it was disorganized. As a tourist, imagining what the site might have looked like wasn't easy. The tall monolithic figures were the most mysterious, and at a closer look, the giant stone blocks caught our attention. The extreme precision with which the stone had been cut was very impressive. What kind of tools did this civilization use in 1,800 BC?

How this ancient culture achieved something like that remains a mystery. Extra Terrestrials mentioned in the books of Swiss archeologist Erich von Däniken came to my mind.

Later on, we visited the sheep farmer family once more. The mother had recovered and was feeling and looking much better. She was so happy to see us and appreciated the clothes we brought for her very excited children. Our Büsi, however, was gone for good. God only knows what happened to him. We miss his companionship.

As we left, the woman kindly handed me a piece of lamb wrapped in burlap. Everyone was beaming as Heinz snapped a group photo.

Then we said our goodbyes, a bit depressed. We can only imagine that they don't have an easy life and could feel their struggle to survive. The return to La Paz was amazingly picturesque in the twilight with low-hanging clouds.

Back at our Hotel, we met the Swiss couple we had briefly met. I liked him but didn't care much for her—no idea why; she just seemed very stupid. But we did have a nice dinner together.

I think this Altiplano region is going to be a fantastic experience. I can't wait!

Stats: Miles 107, Expenses $16.70Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 254 - La Paz
10 января 1975 г., Боливия
(Ursula) We visited the city this morning with the other Swiss couple and took pictures. Heinz was able to change dollars on the black market. And, of course, we didn't miss our morning fruit juices!

In the afternoon, we fulfilled the promise to Peter Hunziker, who gave us $50 in Argentina to buy him an Alpaca blanket. I found a nice one at the Mercado Artisanal, and we mailed it off to his parents in Switzerland.

We followed the concierge's recommendation at the Hotel in the evening and went to a Folklore dinner show. The other Swiss couple joined us, and I couldn't believe my eyes when "that woman" showed up in the same (terrible) wool pants she wore today and yesterday. Only this time, she was wearing underpants! The third couple who sat at our table were from Germany, Mr. & Mrs. Rector. They live in La Paz and have a retail store.

The food was delicious, and the show's second part was fun to watch. Heinz and I even got to dance a little.

Expenses $14.15Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 255 - Lake Titicaca
11 января 1975 г., Боливия
We checked out of Hotel Italia this morning and returned a travel brochure Mrs. Rector lent us.

After saying goodbye, we headed to the Altiplano and followed Lake Titicaca on the East side to Copacabana, which was an exciting stretch. We visited a small village on the way where Indio women were weaving rugs from Llama wool.

It was striking that the land on this lakeside was more developed with fertile soil. We noticed fields of potatoes, onions, beans, rice, and corn.

A little further, we passed a village where a festivity was happening. We were curious about what they were celebrating and watched for a while. Seeing those Indio folks in their typical outfits with felt hats was nice. Live music was playing: drums, charango, and flutes. The men were standing around in small groups drinking Chicha. The women sat on the ground, tending to their children and preparing food. Some were dressed in full Indio costumes adorned with gold-colored necklaces. We sensed that they didn’t like to be photographed. But Heinz captured a few shots with his telephoto lens through the window. It is still a mystery what they were celebrating.

Near Tiquina, we were fortunate to observe an Uro tribesman building a reed boat (used for fishing). We admired his unique skills.

Then we crossed Lake Titicaca on a primitive barge with a modern Evinrude engine. The crossing took 15 minutes and was situated at the narrowest part of the lake.

Then we continued Route #2 with never-ending curves over the mountains to Copacabana. A bad-looking storm with low-hanging, black clouds was approaching just before we reached the city in total darkness.

We spent a rainy night on the central Plaza near the Police Station.

Stats: Miles 112, Expenses $6.40Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 256 - Road to Cusco closed
12 января 1975 г., Перу
We haven’t explored Bolivia much but we got a good taste of La Paz. So far, the rainy season hasn’t affected us yet.

This morning we crossed once again into Peru. This time things went smoother and faster with Immigration and Customs.

At the border, we offered a young French woman backpacker a ride to Puno. As we drove through the narrow streets of Yunguyao, a little boy slammed into the side of our car on his tricycle. Fortunately, he wasn’t injured (horrible Amazon flashback); only the sliding door is now dented. The police recorded the incident.

The trip then continued on Route #S3 North, following the shores of Lake Titicaca on the West side, passing Pomata, Juli, Ilave, and Chuquito.

In Puno, we learned that the road to Cuzco was closed because of a landslide. So, we gave our camper a well-deserved rest and left it at a mechanics shop we deemed safe.

Tomorrow morning, we will travel by train to Cusco to explore that region for the next week.Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 257 - To Cuzco by Train
13 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) We set the alarm clock too early and had to wait an hour in the cold station before the railroad ticket office opened. With our Cuzco tickets, we boarded the train, and a unique journey began!

Juliaca was the next larger town where everyone had to get off and switch trains. Until we could locate our connection was another story, but we made it. Finally, we sat on the train to Cuzco in a car with four long wooden benches, two in the center (back to back) and two along the windows. The ride would take about ten hours. We are wedged between Indios, cloth bundles, and other stuff. Women and children vendors hopped on board at each stop and tried to sell souvenirs and homemade food. Everyone was munching on something. We couldn't see exactly what it was, but they seemed to love it.

A woman steps for the tenth time through the narrow aisle with her billowing colored skirts and leaves a "certain scent" behind. Meanwhile, hers and other mixed scents had spread throughout the car - it was quite a smelly situation! A vendor wanted to sell us fish in a bucket. And someone else was selling stinky cheese. Fortunately, there was a breath of fresh air every time someone went in and out the back door!

The man sitting across from us had a box with baby chickens in a cage between his feet and fed them every hour or so. A bunch of baby rabbits were in a second box under his seat. The little girl next to us coughs and spits at regular intervals. We suspect she has tuberculosis. She wasn't the only one coughing in our compartment!

Later, the woman with a baby sitting next to the "chicken man" reached down, grabbed the tiny rabbits one by one, breastfed them, and then continued breastfeeding her baby. People just grinned, and we were left with our mouths open in disbelief. Another woman searched for the umpteenth time under our seats for a piece of meat that she thought she had dropped.

Somewhere in a mountain valley, the locomotive broke down. Everything came to a standstill, but no one seemed too worried. After a few hours, another locomotive arrived and towed us to Cuzco. Very tired but relieved, we got off and found our way to the Main Plaza, where we found a cheap hotel.

Then we met Heinz & Bettina, two Swiss, whom we recognized from Nelly's photos (we met her in La Paz earlier). We had a late dinner with them in the Restaurant Picolo.

It was already late when we arrived back at our hotel. Oh, shucks! - The entrance door was locked. Heinz made loud noises and shook the door until one of the guests opened a window above and threw down the key.

We hit the sack dead tired and fell asleep in seconds.

Expenses $14.25Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 258 - Cuzco, Sacsayhuamán
14 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) The anticipation of a hot shower was short-lived. The water was just a miserable drip. On the other hand, the included breakfast was quite good. We left the money for one night in the room and looked for another place to stay.

Hotel Roma for 80 Soles was the answer - it had an excellent hot shower. Then we went for a stroll through the narrow streets of old Cuzco. Many buildings are built on original Inca store work, still in impeccable condition after hundreds of years and many earthquakes. The fit of the shaped rocks was amazingly tight - you couldn’t slide even a razor blade in between them! The Incas had impressive masonry skills - one of the stones had 12 corners.

Then we ran into Heinz & Bettina again by accident. They showed us where to exchange dollars at the best rate. Later, we also met the two Germans we met in Chile in the yellow VW Camper and drank a Schnapps together.

Cuzco was so interesting. The view from the Main Plaza, with the nicely restored buildings with carved wooden balconies from the colonial era, looked beautiful. We could easily see us staying here for a while.

We both purchased woven Alpaca shoulder bags. Then I realized I had left our Peru Travel Book in a store. We backtracked our steps but couldn’t find it anymore. How stupid of me - now that we needed it!

In the afternoon, we took a bus to Sacsayhuamán. Massive boulders had been cut and assembled into a high zig-zag wall formation across a narrow valley section, protecting and cutting off the access to Cuzco. We just stood there in awe; it was so impressive!

We spent the evening alone, enjoying a good meal at Pizza Place, and went to bed early. Our plan for tomorrow is Machu Picchu.

Expenses $13.60Читать далее
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ПутешественникTwenty years later the water situation was still the same.
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 259 - Machu Picchu
15 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) We got to the train station early and purchased tickets to Machu Picchu. This train was much nicer and not overcrowded.

After a 4-hour ride through mountainous terrain and a long subtropical valley, we reached Aguas Caliente, where everyone was getting off. Machu Picchu is the most famous place in Peru, and we wanted to take our time to explore it all and not feel rushed to return to Cuzco the same day. Thus, we reserved a room in the Bamboo Hut next to the train station for 1-night.

The cost of the bus ride to the archeological site sitting 1,312 feet up on a mountain ridge above the Urubamba River, was too much for our budget. We decided to use the hiking trail. The climb was exhausting due to the humid climate and the steep terrain, but we made it in just one hour.

Wow, we arrived in the Inca city of Machu Picchu!

The site was very impressive and mysterious at the same time. Certain areas were still being excavated and restored. What was this place used for? Was it for religious purposes? Was it a retreat or hideout for the Inca emperor Pachacuti? The terraces and sophisticated irrigation systems indicated they were growing crops.

So many thoughts went through our heads all day long. There were so many unanswered questions! And again, as we have seen in Cuzco, the stone masons had done amazing precision work.

There was a gate carved out of a monolith and a strange-looking rock that could have been a sacrificial stone. It was obvious that this was once a fully functional city. It was abandoned for unknown reasons in the mid-15th century.

Climbing around the site wasn’t easy because of the steep terrain, humidity, and higher elevation. St. Peter then took pity on us and let it rain for a while. I found that very considerate! After the rain, it was time to descend to Aguas Caliente. We absolutely loved everything we saw. It was well worth visiting.

We ate a sandwich in our room by candlelight (no electricity) and went to bed tired. Unfortunately, we couldn’t sleep much because mice were rummaging around all night. One even rushed over Heinz’s face and pillow. How gross. They stubbornly tried to get to the provisions in our backpacks.

Expenses $18.70Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 260 - Sillustani
17 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) A visit to the town of Pisac was on the program for today.

Unfortunately, that didn’t materialize because we both felt sick. I vomited during the night. Heinz went to the Pharmacy to purchase flu and food poisoning medication.

We drank lots of tea and rested at the hotel. Late afternoon we obtained 1st-Class train tickets to Juliaca. Two hours later, we sat on the train and closed our eyes in luxurious velvet seats. Expenses $13.10

January 18th
(Ursula) Still feeling sick, we arrived in Juliaca early this morning and managed to rummage through the open artisan markets and purchase a wool hat and scarf. Then we hired a Taxi to take us back to Puno, where we had left the camper.

It was a significant relief to see that it had been well-guarded. We only noticed that someone had tried to steal the spare wheel. But whoever it was, was unsuccessful, thanks to the security nuts that Heinz installed in Mexico.

Today, we camp on Lake Umayo near Sillustani by pre-Inca burial sites, in the shape of large, cylindrical stone structures, about 30 ft tall and 18 ft in diameter. It was interesting to see. How did they manage to stack those large stones?

However, we were glad to rest more and go to bed early. I was on the mend and feeling better, but Heinz had the flu: chills, profusely sweating, and a high fever. I boiled a large teapot, and he started taking the medication.

The poor man had to change pajamas three times that night!

Stats: Miles 20, Expenses $9.05Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 263 - Puno - Arequipa
19 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) Heinz woke up feeling rested but still had a fever and headache. So, we both stayed in bed until noon.

Then I prepared oatmeal with raisins for lunch. After lunch, I boiled a large pot of water to wash the sweat off our bodies. That felt wonderful - better than any medicine! In the evening, I cooked more oatmeal. Then we played a game of Canasta and went to bed early again.

January 20th
(Ursula) Heinz has recovered and is back "in the saddle"! We can continue our trip.

First, we returned to Puno for refueling and stocking up on drinking water and food.

Route 34A then took us West over the mountains towards the coast. We knew it was (officially) the rainy season and were forewarned about the driving conditions. But let's see if weToday'ske it.

Today's stretch was indeed a challenge. We plowed through many pools of water. Heinz did his best to navigate and avoid large potholes. At times the road was quite muddy and slippery. Other times it felt like driving over corrugated metal. It shook us so severely that every bone in our bodies felt loose. Progress was slow, and luckily we never got stuck.

It was foggy, and at times, we had heavy rain, but that was OK because there wasn't anything interesting to visit along the way during bad weather. Nothing but rocks and rocks and more rocks.

After a 15,091ft pass, the road gradually descended toward Arequipa, and the weather improved.

We camped by the side of the road near a bridge. When it was dark outside, we could make out the shimmering lights from the city of Arequipa below at a distance.

Stats: Miles 200, Expenses $3.95Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 264 - Arequipa to Pacific Coast
21 января 1975 г., Перу
We slept well. The weather is clear this morning. Peeking out the window, I can see a snow-capped volcano to the North. According to our map, it could be the 19,872 ft Chachani.

All four tires still have the correct pressure. No leak is good news. Now that we are at a lower altitude, I set the air intake for the carburetors back to normal.

After descending through never-ending hairpin curves, we reached the city of Arequipa (the second largest in Peru). The Plaza de Armas was clean and well-kept, with palm trees and flowers. The buildings around the square had high arches in the front. Most were built with white bricks, which seemed standard in this city.

I’m sure Arequipa would have had many things to offer, but we didn’t stay long and continued on (paved) Route #115 toward the coast. In the evening, we found a nice place near Camana by the Pacific next to a big rock. We both enjoyed a dip in the refreshing sea.

Chef Ursula prepared a delicious tuna salad with potatoes and beans. Then we savored a cup of tea with Anise Schnapps, reflecting on the fantastic days we spent on the Altiplano.

We were grateful that our camper made it through a few challenging parts without a problem.

Stats: Miles 201, Expenses $0.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 265 - Spring Cleaning
22 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) It's hard to believe how much stuff had accumulated again in our camper after the clean-up in Saó Paulo when we said goodbye to Wally.

Surely, we could eliminate items we don't necessarily need anymore and sell or trade them for souvenirs and such. We sorted out everything and disposed of city maps and brochures we no longer needed. That spring cleaning felt good!

We took another dip in the Pacific in the afternoon and continued on the Panamericana North. In the next small town, we tried to sell one of our spare tires and a fuel canister but weren't ready to let it go for what was being offered.

Finding a suitable place to stay in this Peruvian coastal desert was hard. We had to settle for parking next to a small restaurant/bar on the Panamericana.

Ursula prepared a delicious Italian dish.

Stats: Miles 104, Expenses $2.26Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 266 - Nazca Desert
23 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) The journey continued on the Panamericana up the Peruvian coast.

In the Nazca Desert, we had a nice view from the top of a hill and spotted faint drawings miles ahead on the Desert floor, or at least we thought that's what it was. We had read the books by Erich Von Däniken and knew about their existence. Of course, they can best be observed from the air, but our limited budget didn't allow that luxury.

When we saw the sign "Sitios Arqueológicos," we were confident that's what it was, and when a Ranger stopped us because we wanted to turn off the road to investigate, we were genuinely convinced that's what we saw from the hill. Wow!

Later, as we approached the coast, there were irrigated fields of corn, cotton, fruit plantations, and vineyards. Further up the coast, an awful smell from the Pesca-Peru fishmeal factories made breathing difficult. Fishmeal is sold worldwide as fertilizer or feed additive for fish, pigs, and chicken farms.

People often mistake the Swiss flag on our spare wheel for the Red Cross, which was handy today. We stopped at a roadside stand to buy fresh fruits and were asked to pay with painkillers instead of money. We gladly handed over a bunch of Tylenol.

When we came to a shallow river, we washed the car and camped there for the night. A bunch of village children hung around our camper and made me nervous. They stared, watching my every move, as I prepared our dinner. They were cute but stuck around like annoying flies!

Stats: Miles 259, Expenses $2.90Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 267 - Club Suiza, Lima
24 января 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) We got up at six this morning and arrived in Lima, the capital city of Peru, three hours later via a luxurious multi-line highway. What a feeling!

The people at the Swiss consulate were friendly and efficient. We each collected a letter from our parents and one from Wally from Belo Horizonte, Brazil.

After paying an unusually high price for a dozen eggs and bacon at the grocery store, we drove to the Swiss Club in Miraflores in an upscale neighborhood.

As usual, we received a warm welcome and were assigned a parking spot at the far end next to another VW camper with Swiss plates. A high wall with a heavy iron gate with 24-hour security surrounded the Club. We felt safe there and enjoyed a quick swim in the pool. We were also granted access to the showers, bathrooms, restaurant, and bakery.

Heinz drove to downtown Miraflores to buy new films at Photo Studio Fortunato. While there, he was able to exchange dollars at a reasonable rate. We later realized the agent had miscalculated, giving us an even better rate.

Stats: Miles 105, Expenses $16.55Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 267-273 Club Suiza, Miraflores, Lima
30 января 1975 г., Перу
I purchased a real Cinnamon-Roll "Schnägg" from the bakery. It was pretty delicious, and I savored this special treat. I don't think I had one since we left Switzerland in 1971. We should take advantage of having this Swiss bakery so close by.

We plan to stay more or less here at the Swiss Club and not undertake too much for a few days. Everything is up to speed mechanically with the camper and ready for more adventures later.

One day, we visited the Gold Museum. It had a nice collection of pre-Hispanic ceramics, gold artifacts, and ancient textiles.

Jörg & Eva, the other couple staying here, are lovely. They are from the city of Langenthal and are very interested in archeology and culture. They plan to continue their journey to Patagonia soon. We were able to sell them our spare tire and gas canister. One day, they took us along on a visit to a custom potter we commissioned for a 6-piece (glazed terra cotta) dish set.

On another day, I visited the brother of Felix Tazartes, one of my watchmakers at Piaget New York, who works at Joyeria Reis & Curione here in Lima. Unfortunately, he didn't have much time for us. Ursula and I will visit him together another day.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWelcher der beiden hübschen Jungs bis du?
04.07.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникHaha. Those were the hippie years. Ich bin der ohne Hut.
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ПутешественникDas waren geile Zeiten.
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ПутешественникIt was fun! Und es ging auch ohne Internet und Handy 😂.
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 274 - Huancayo Side Trip
31 января 1975 г., Перу
Today we are leaving on a side trip to Huancayo for a few days to visit the Indio market that Jörg & Eva recommended.

Oh, man! Getting out of Lima was quite an adventure! Driving through the jumble of streets without names and directional signs was challenging. By sheer luck and my decent sense of orientation, we located Route #22, which we had searched for. Once it passed the city limits, it steadily climbed up through a long valley, leading over a 15,889 feet pass to La Oroya. From there, we took Route 3S South to Hualhuas village, a Huancayo suburb.

We left the car near the Plaza Principal while exploring the village on foot. Many weaver workshops we visited had marvelous Alpaca rugs in natural dye colors. We were tempted to buy some but decided to wait and see what the Huancayo Market offered.

Stats: Miles 89, Expenses $6.50Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 275 - Hualhuas Weaver Village
1 февраля 1975 г., Перу
We continued visiting more weavers today and were able to barter with things that we no longer needed. Our tape recorder, radio, and alarm clock went for a beautiful rug and wall hanging.

The word spread quickly that we had items to trade. We bartered the adjustable wrench, old shirts, and a kitchen knife at the next weaver for a stunning “Tumi” wall hanging.

The mechanic at the gas station was interested in our grip vise, which we traded for a tank of fuel. We were happy to be so successful and proud of the treasures we acquired.

In the afternoon, we drove to Huancayo, where we bought fresh fruits and splurged on our favorite fruit juices. Then we found a suitable place to stay for the night. Tomorrow we plan to visit the Indio market here.

Stats: Miles driven 10, Expenses $2.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 277 - Huancayo, Peru
2 февраля 1975 г., Перу
Today is Sunday. The town of Huancayo seems like a magnet. Indios are pouring into the city from all over, carrying bundles of goods to sell. Busloads of visitors arrive from Lima. We already had everything we wanted but strolled through this vast and exciting market. We also compared prices, and Ursula was constantly checking if there was anything else she possibly couldn’t live without! Haha.

We realized with great satisfaction that we had done well acquiring things in Hualhuas. The prices at the Huancayo Market were more expensive, and secondly, we couldn’t have bartered here.

We splurged on more freshly squeezed juices, and Ursula purchased a lovely embroidered blouse. Then we tried in vain to find the village of Gachas, known for gourds and pumpkin carvings. After locals sent us in the wrong direction for the third time, we gave up the search and headed back toward Lima. In the evening, we stopped at a gas station in a small village.

The owner saw our sign “SE VENDEN COSAS.” He purchased old clothes, tools, a blanket, rubber boots, and shoes for his kids. He was friendly and let us stay on his property for the night, down by the river.

Stats: Miles drove 42, Expenses $14.10Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 278 - Returning to Lima
3 февраля 1975 г., Перу
The gas station owner knocked on our window early this morning and wanted to buy more stuff. We searched our belongings again and found three more clothing items to sell. He also wanted to buy our winch, shovel, and tow rope, but I decided to hold on to those, just in case.

In Oroya, we purchased fresh vegetables and fruits, then climbed up to the high pass. Down the other side, we stopped by a brook and washed our dirty camper. Then we descended through the light fog into the valley that led back to Lima.

By evening we were back in Miraflores at the Swiss Club. Another Swiss couple, Franzka and Rodger, had arrived there during our absence. We invited them for coffee and proudly showed off our souvenirs. We chatted together way into the night.

Stats: Miles 198, Expenses $2.10Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 280 - Miraflores, Lima
5 февраля 1975 г., Перу
Peru is celebrating the Day of the Revolution.

We are planning an excursion up the coast, but our security guard advised us to stay here for safety.

Radio Lima broadcasts that a strike by the Civil Guard police broke out. Anti-government forces were exploiting the opportunity to demonstrate and riot. Buildings and cars are set on fire in the inner city. Rioters vandalized stores and attacked the United States Embassy. Gunshots are being fired. All banks closed immediately.

The local TV showed T-55 Army tanks blocking all the city exit roads and moving toward the inner city. A spokesman announced the Military was taking over security, but personal safety is not guaranteed. Citizens should stay home and remain calm. No groups larger than four persons may be formed.

A strict curfew was imposed from 8:00 PM until 5:00 AM.

We did not know what to expect but weren’t too worried. Rodger and I rushed to the supermarket for supplies, but it had already been looted, and the entrance was barricaded.

Later in the evening, we could hear shots fired in the distance that sounded like submachine guns. It was a bit scary. How bad is this going to get, and when is it going to end?

Stats: Expenses $17.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 282 - Miraflores, Lima
7 февраля 1975 г., Перу ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
It never felt as calm as last night. The Swiss Club had its iron gates locked and was officially closed, but we were allowed to stay.

All stores were closed as we investigated the immediate neighborhood of Miraflores and delightfully found a Kiosk on the street corner that sold fruits and vegetables.

Jörg & Eva came to visit in the afternoon and stayed for dinner. Ursula prepared a delicious vegetable soup and served "Gugelhopf" from the Niederman bakery for dessert. Later that evening, Franzka and Rodger joined us for a long talk about our travel experiences, drinking tea with Anis Schnapps.

February 7th - What a relief!

We thought we would be stuck here for a while, but Radio Lima announced the strike ended this morning, encouraging people to return to their jobs.

Roger and I went to the supermarket after the Swiss Club opened the gate. A mob of people was already waiting to get in. Once the door opened, everyone pushed in at once like animals, as if it was the end of the world.

Later that day, I walked to the Kodak store and purchased a spray to protect our Alpaca items from moths (a recommendation of Franzka). I also acquired a travel book for Northern Peru and Ecuador.

Before bed, I quickly drove to a gas station to fill the tank. Stats: Expenses $13.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 283 - Miraflores, Lima
8 февраля 1975 г., Перу
At 8:30, we left with Jörg and Eva to the Pottery-maker to pick up their order. His manual skills were awe-inspiring. To make a long story short, we fell more in love with his pieces and added three serving bowls to our original order. He said it should be ready in a week.

Then we drove to the International Airport to try sending Jörg and Eva’s pieces as a piece of luggage to Zurich. It was a brilliant idea and would have been fast and safe, but unfortunately, it wasn’t possible without also buying an airline ticket. Oh well, that idea wasn’t so brilliant after all.

On the way home, we stopped at a Pumpkin-carver. He had many items that weren’t intricate enough for our liking. The ones that Jörg and Eva bought in Huancayo are much better crafted.

Our last stop was in San Isidro, where Ursula purchased enough fabric (hand-printed Indio motifs) for a couple of pillowcases. Of course, she couldn’t leave the store without adding a cute little toiletries pouch to her souvenir collection!

Then we wanted to watch a movie, but the theatre was closed. So, we returned to the Swiss Club and played cards with Franzka and Rodger until dinner.

Stats: Miles 33, Expenses $24.50Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 284 - Visit with Mr. Terrazas
9 февраля 1975 г., Перу
Mr. Terrazas came to pick us up, and we took the city bus to the Plaza Mayor. I was sick from the stop-and-go ride but quickly recovered.

Mr. Terrazas gave us a tour of downtown, including the jewelry district. The underground burial chambers of the San Martin church, with its skeletons, gave me a creepy feeling. At the Correo Central, we were granted access to an exclusive exhibition of postal stamps (Mr. Terrazas was an avid collector).

Later on, he invited us to his apartment to meet the family. His lovely wife served a typical Peruvian chicken dish that was delicious. What a treat! There was so much we wanted to ask and learn about them and life in Peru, but it was difficult to carry on a higher level of conversation with our limited language skills. We need to do something about that!

By late afternoon we took a taxi back to the Swiss Club. Still full from the elaborate lunch, we just had fruit for dinner. Ursula begins reading a new book, "Three Comrades."Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 287 - Miraflores, Lima
12 февраля 1975 г., Перу
Two more VW campers joined us at the Swiss Club today.

In the afternoon, Therese Dubach, the (Swiss) cheese maker's wife, took us to a private museum with an exclusive collection of Inca artifacts, clothes, and fabrics. They were the most exquisite and best-preserved pieces we had seen so far in Peru. We were all just amazed.

In the evening, we had Joerg and Eva over for dinner. There were rumors on the Radio that new riots had happened in the city. We prayed that it wasn't going to escalate. Stats: Miles 9, Expenses $3.90

February 12th
Luckily, no new riots broke out, so we decided to visit the Anthropological & Archaeological Museum. The visit required most of today.

Looking closely at the potteries, I recognized many distinct ethnic faces, such as Mongols, Turks, Arabs, etc. How did those pre-Columbian cultures know what other races looked like on different continents? There had to be a connection, but how? Perhaps they used rafts and trade winds like Thor Heyerdahl's Kon-Tiki - who knows?

That evening Ursula and I enjoyed dinner in a fine restaurant by the sea and tasted Ceviche for the first time. We fell in love with this lemon-marinated dish. It was so delicious!

Stats: Miles 21, Expenses $2.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 288 - Paramonga
14 февраля 1975 г., Перу
(Ursula) One more camper arrived today; Ruedi and Helene from Switzerland.

We went with them to visit the headquarters of Petro Peru. It was my favorite building in Lima. The architecture, details, and execution were outstanding. Construction seems to be simpler here in the desert as it seldom or never rains, nor are there any stark changes in temperature. But Peru is an earthquake-prone country, and special foundations must be put in.

After lunch, we drove to the city center and visited the Plaza de Armas and Plaza San Martin, where we purchased an LP with typical Inca music. For this last evening in Lima, we spotted a place in Miraflores and enjoyed an excellent Pizza by candlelight.

Stats: Miles 39, Expenses $10.10

February 14th
(Ursula) Today, after almost three weeks, we said goodbye to Lima. We had a very lovely, relaxing time here with some tense moments!

On the way out of town, we stopped at our potter. The custom dishes we ordered exceeded our expectations. This unique treasure will forever remind us of Lima.

Our journey continued North on the Pan American Highway along the coast until Paramonga. The fortress wasn’t worth visiting. We turned right and continued on Route #16 towards the Cordillera Negra. A little further ahead, the road was closed off by the transit police. We need to get a permit and wait here until the following evening. Reason: the road is under construction, and traffic is only allowed at night or on Sundays.

We plan to explore the beautiful Huaraz Valley and its surroundings. Huaraz is between the Cordillera Negra (Coastal Mountains) and the Cordillera Blanca (Andes). Of course, we are still in the middle of Peru’s rainy season and must be prepared for anything.

Stats: Miles 203, Expenses $13.95Читать далее
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