Tajikistan

So have just crossed the border into Tajikistan. There was some issue with my visa - a computer says no sort of thing. The guy on the desk was apologetic about it as he could see that it was genuine. After about half an hour hemming and hawwing and the odd phone call he gave me back a signed and stamped visa and a stamp on my passport. I am in! Now waiting for our shared taxi to fill up despite as I thought agreeing to pay 200 somoni for one person. Taxi drivers. Off to Dushanbe. The route took another four hours or so to Dushanbe through the spectacular Zarafshan mountain range.

There is a 6km tunnel between the border and Dushanbe. It is notorious. On entering it, it was dark as pitch. There was no lighting at all which made it scary. The only light was from car headlights and they showed up fog. Except it wasn't fog in was exhaust fumes. I heard that if people break down here they can keel over from CO poisoning and can well imagine that is true. The taxi did a couple of overtakes in the tunnel - squeaky bum time there. Towards the end of we were behind a lorry which was leaning to the right - perhaps its suspension had gone and it was hitting the top of the tunnel dragging sparks along with it. Was glad to get it behind it and see it pulling on the side of the road at the exit. Scariest thing I've done since travelling started.

Arrived in Dushanbe about 8pm and checked in to the Green House Hostel. They only had private room availability but at £15 a night equivalent that's fine by me. Nice room with one of the comfier mattresses I've had on my travels and a/c and a kettle.

Dedided to spend the next day relaxing and getting my bearings. The main thing was to decide on a way to do the Pamir. The options are to hitchhike. Cheap but slow. Shared taxi. Getting in on a tour. Or renting a car and finding extras to share the cost. Or to hire a motorbike. The last seems most appealing so I'm going to investigate that. If that doesn't pan out then it's either shared taxi, hitch hike or an organised tour. We'll see. The first bike option didn't have any. Went to an alternative today but it being Sunday evening they were shut so will try tomorrow (writing this on Sunday 8th September) but tomorrow is Independence day so not certain if they will be open. But I've decided come what may I want to head off on Tuesday.

Becky and Ed from Hotel Rahmon in Samarkand arrived Saturday night covered in soot from the ride. I don't envy them that part of it!

The hostel is very friendly and relaxed and is the most "this is set up for people touring" type of hostel I think I've come across. There are a lot of cyclists a lot of bikers and a lot of people with 4WDs (all seemingly with broken suspensions / drive shafts etc). But very many friendly people and lots of tips on doing the Pamir.

Spent a lot of my spare time on my Russian studies!Read more