Ishkashim, Tajikistan: The Afghan Market

The reason we stayed a couple of days in Ishkashim was to attend the Afghan market which took place on the Saturday. It was a couple of miles back along the highway and we (Lisa and I) got picked up by a taxi on the way there. We met up with an Argentinian guy called Fernando (at least he said he was called Fernando, but I’m not so sure - he couldn’t hear any drums!).

To get to the market we had to cross a bridge which led onto an island in the middle of the river. there was an entrance to it from the Tajik side and also from the Afghan side. We had to show our passports on the way in but they were not checked on the way out so I’m not sure what was gained.

The market itself was a mixture of all sorts of different things for sale as is always the case with the bazaars here. From mechanical parts for cars and agricultural vehicles to local clothing and jewellery, to fixtures and fittings for the home and of course lots of food. Naturally, being a poor backpacker I wasn’t in the market for anything and I think that was the case with most of the western tourists there. Fernando bought a very small piece of jewellery - a small blue heart but other than that the three of us bought nothing. Except chai for us (tea) and a shashlik for me.

The Afghans were all wearing the traditional clothing that everyone will be familiar with. It seems that we westerners have lost something by not having a national costume. We all just look a bit… scruffy. Me especially. Many of the girls round this neck of the woods - by which I mean the ‘Stans - seem to dress very well. (Also, by the by no one has yet picked up on me referring to a country called Laurelstan… come on people, pay attention.)

Lisa said that there were times she felt a little uncomfortable being stared at. I think the Afghan men must be unfamiliar with women not being covered. Anyway they were, as with everyone else around here, very friendly, hospitable and talkative. No sign of extremism - why would there be? Most people are just normal. It’s just the people who want to be in charge who are weirdos - if we could just get rid of them, everything would be fine. And they were proud of their country saying how beautiful it was. I will have to give it a go - hopefully in the not too distant future. Although of course there are ethical issues going to a country with an extreme authoritarian religious government that discriminates against women. But then I suppose Trump hasn’t won just yet.

Anyway after the market we met back up with our taxi driver who took us to Akim Home stay in ???? for 200 somonis (I think. I'm writing this a week later so may have gotten the amount wrong).Read more