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Winter 2025-26
  • Simon Randfield
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  • Simon Randfield

Winter 2025-26

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    🇳🇿 Marlborough District, New Zealand
    Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1Bye bye Dora

    Sunny end to the South Island

    January 31 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Dragged ourselves away from Dorren and Mikes and headed eastwards . First stop, Pelorus Bridge. A nice swimming spot about half way between Nelson and Blenheim, it was made all the more special- and Kiwi- when we could hire inner tubes to float down the gorge for $5. What a bargain! And what fun! Initially bobbling down some rapids then serenely floating the latter part. Lots of kiwi families enjoying the cool water on a baking hot day.
    Onwards for lunch at Allan Scott vineyard with some lovely wine for the non driver.
    Through Blenheim and found a beautiful wild kiwi beach campsite near cape Campbell, and fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing on a brisk northerly wind.
    A calm morning as the wind had dropped and the tide receded. Then back in Dora the Explorer, through Kaikora, squeezed between mountain and sea, and on to Hanmer Springs. Our initial disappointment that many mtb tracks were closed due to Novembers storm damage was alleviated by the reality that there were still plenty to keep us busy on a hot afternoon- (-and the signage was so poor that Helen seemed to just repeat the one line anyhow🙃)
    Real fruit gelato then we paid the tourist dollar and went to the hot pools that Hanmer is famed for. There's a mixture of slides/ rides and oversized naturally heated jacuzzis. A very pleasant way to while away a few hours and contemplate life.
    We parked up in a free permitted overnight space in the middle of town , with toilet facilities and a park area with benches and communal gas bbqs. Why would none of this ever work in the uk?
    Early start for a beautiful run in the forest, cool at this altitude in the morning shade, then a drive back to Christchurch, via a brief stop at the Balmoral fire lookout at Hurunui .
    The main event today was dropping Dora the Explorer off.
    We might have had somewhat rocky start with our relationship with Dora, but she's kept us on the road for more than 5000k !And with the generosity of friends we've only had to sleep in her for 15 nights of 6 weeks. So there was a mixture of relief and sadness when we waved her goodbye.
    One last treat was catching up with Jane Milner, a nurse friend and housemate of Judes from our time in Christchurch 35 years ago. We stayed with her and -ably supported by Jan ( aged 70) and Ben( aged 19) -we gave the local pub quiz a go and didnt come last!!!    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    The Tasman Great Taste Trail & Abel Tn

    January 28 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    So taken we were by other New Zealand "great rides" we decided to try and squeeze the c200k great Tasman Taste Trail into 2 days.... on barely adequate bikes. To minimise bag carriage we had complex starting / finishing arrangements ( although possibly this was just a ruse to avoid more nights in the increasingly odourous van...). Whatever , we got an extra night in our old ' hood, Motueka, and more time in our favourite coffee shop, Toad Hall. We shuttled the van as far up the hill as possible and set off.
    First challenge was Spooners Tunnel- the longest tunnel of some sort in the southern hemisphere. All very pleasant, following an old railway line. It pops out into the upper Motueka valley which is delightful. A wee detour over the Baton Saddle dropped us into the Baton Valley and the most amazing honesty cafe/ shed. Amongst local historical artefacts, you could help yourself to hot drinks, ice creams, sweets, WiFi, charge your phone or bike battery, use the extensive bike tools, if need use the first aid kit or the PLB. There was even a chilly bin with pre ordered lunches. Everything you could possibly want.
    Just as well as there was nothing at all for the rest of the baton- Motueka valley. Even Noel Edmond's lifestyle farm was closed due to land slips. So we were pretty broken by the time we and our barely adequate bikes made it back to Motueka.
    We found energy later to have a dip in the salt water baths and visit our old house to find Allan and Lois still going strong.
    Day 2 of the ride meandered northwards, following the coast in places, popping out in Mapua and the ferry across to Rabbit Island. This is very much Dorren and Mikes stomping ground and we found ourselves in their local cafe for lunch.
    20k of purgatory was left to complete the loop, slowly uphill into a headwind, alongside a busy road. Job done.
    Desperate for a rest day , but the weather served up another corker of a day so we had no choice but to cram in another adventure. This time sea kayaking up the Abel Tasman- dropping the kayaks off at Anchorage after a picnic on a n isolated sandbar and a quick swim. Then a walk back along the track that was just so runnable that we ran it...
    Properly pooped by the end of the day, not sure how to rehydrate , but a swim and hot tub followed by dinner at Dorren and Mikes aided recovery. Ready now to head back south-to get rid of the stinky van and fly north....    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    Nelson

    January 25 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Mike and Dorren are such good hosts that it almost felt like coming home when we arrived in Nelson. Their house is from another world, or at least, from a country homes magazine, through vineyards and macadamias ( more of that later), perched on top of a hill with extensive views to the mountains across the Tasman Bay. Add to this, trampolines, swimming pool, hot tub, gym, tennis, horses, cows, ducks and dogs- and a delightful son, Finn: aged 18 and imminently heading off to Uni.
    So we didn't have to wander far to have a lovely weekend, dog walking, coffee drinking, wine tasting, jet skiing and water skiing.
    But all of this had to be earned and we were soon put to work as woofers on the macadamia nut production line. De husking, cracking then finding multiple ( but as yet not exhausted ) ways of eating them.
    Monday morning and the workers were off to work whilst the woofers( sorry should explain: "workers on organic farms") prised themselves out of bed , hardly able to move after the previous day's battering being dragged behind a jet ski in the vague semblance of sport). Various coffees later we found ourselves at the top of the Takaka hill dangling off a via ferrata. Quite sporty and obviously airy, and all for an unbelievable $10 each!! I love a bargain.
    The weather was holding so we carried on north to Farewell spit and Wharariki beach. This beach is beyond the back end of nowhere but boy does it deliver! A beautiful forest walk through a deafening chattering choir of cicadas opens onto dunes and a huge beach with crashing waves and arched islands that are like sculptures in the sea. Throw in a few caves, cute seal pups and the beautiful last of the day light casting long shadows and it was a quasi- religious experience. Stunned into silence. Almost.
    We stayed at the nearby campsite, so were able to do a second take the following morning and it was almost as good. If you come to New Zealand you must come to this beach. It's a long way, correct. It is definitely worth it!
    The rain caught up with us as we raced across the base of Farewell Spit and another Wild West coast beach that stretches away beyound the horizon, and we made our way back to Motueka- another blast of memory lane as we lived here for a few months in 2005    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    11111

    West is best

    January 18 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We left Arthur's pass and it was as if the gates to the garden of Eden had opened: lush green forest, rich with birdsong,warm and sunny. Could this really be Greymouth ?( where it normally looks and feels as it sounds...)
    We found an idyllic spot on the coast and even got the picnic table and chairs out to enjoy a spectacular sunset.
    A leisurely morning followed with a coast walk from van to coffee, then up the coast to "pancake rocks" and a walk up the tail end of the Paparoa tramp. I had planned to ride this ( unusually it's a shared bike/walk trail) however there had been a landslip blocking the central part of the route. So walking it was - and very pleasant it was with a lovely if chilly swim half way round.
    From there we headed inland to our friends Murray and Gaye ( and son Euan)
    Murray is West Coast farmer born and bred and through the mists of time, neither of us could remember how we met. That needn't matter as even though our lives could not be more dissimilar, the warm welcome they have always offered transcends this.
    They run a dairy farm with 800 cows 40k up a dead end valley surrounded by magnificent but impenetrable mountains. Wow.
    We soon settled into country life , building silage piles, delivering stock, milking the pissing, shitting machines they called cows. Day 2 finished the silage piles and a visit to drench, castrate and dehorn( different issues, and believe me you'd sooner be castrated than dehorned😳) a neighbors young bulls. All set to the calm homely ambience of Gaye recounting tales of everyone related to the valley and feeding us like royalty.
    By day 4 we were starting to feel some inertia, the draw of Gaye's ginger fudge needed to be overcome, so we reluctantly headed off into the rain, heading North.
    Our goal now is Nelson but a wee detour was called for to return to Lake Matiri hut. The kids are still traumatised by the previous trip we made up there, wading through dangerously high rivers to find a hut full with a snorers convention.
    This time was much more pleasant: no overnight and a new road and bridge making it all a bit tame, though beautiful all the same. Demons exorcised.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    112

    Heading north. And west

    January 18 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    So, thoroughly steampunked by Oamaru, we headed north across the Canterbury Plains and into some miserable weather in Christchurch. Parked up in a rammed suburban campsite amongst the puddles we did a bit of lifemin and visted the local mall. Really livin'.
    Day saved by going to an arty cinema to see Anchor Me, the biography of Don McGlashan, an obscure kiwi music fave.
    We spent the next day wandering around the city . Pleasant tho it was we concluded that the city is better as a place to live than a place to visit. Obviously, it's 35 years since we lived there so was unrecognisable . Not least due to the 2011 earthquakes from which the city is still piecing itself together. Of note , the "pink palace" where we lived in the early 90s still stands!
    Saturday morning we dodged showers to complete a fast flat park run, all but past our old house. Popular events here- more than 700 running! Then more memory lane wanderings to Sumner and Taylor's Mistake beaches, before driving into the mist and murk of Arthur's Pass.
    We'd booked into Porters Lodge- in winter a ski field, which was basically just a carpark amongst dreich grey hills. The occasion was saved by very entertaining lodge staff and the arrival of Kerry and Lucy!
    They are on their way back to Christchurch, finishing off their holiday but we had a lovely reunion over dinner before returning to the freezing vans!
    The girls disappeared off early in the morning to the airport. So great to see them having what sounded like an amazing road trip. # vanlife.
    Inertia started to set in but 20 mins down the hill and out of the clouds was Cave Stream. What better than an chest deep immersion in a freezing cold underground river to shake off the cobwebs??!
    The levels were high and the water flow brisk so the sensible amongst us decided not to proceed. Those that were already immersed to their oxters continued on.. The river was brisk and a little challenging fighting the flow in places, but delivered ( once again) in the beauty of the smooth limestone shapes. And like previous, goes on just far enough for you to start thinking... "have I gone the right way?"
    Wet but happy I emerged from my troglodytic paradise and we carried on our merry way, Helen graciously listening to my interminable reminiscences of the coast to coast race..
    to shake that out of me Helen forced me to climb mt Avalanche. A beautiful 1800 m peak above Arthur's Pass, the scenery could have been Scottish - even down to the chilly wind- apart from;
    1. The first 600m of the climb- so steep through the trees ( we don't have natural forest in Scotland) and
    2. big fat cheeky Keas on the summit.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    A2O day 5

    January 14 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Last day of the A2O and we expected to be just going through the motions for 60k. However the trail continued to deliver with easy single track snaking along the riverside( and through the irrigation sprayers☔️ !) through the wetlands, to Duntroon( is that a made up more Scottish than Scotland name?) then we started to climb up out of the Waitake valley that we had followed thus far and into a limestone wonderland of bluffs and cliffs, including Maori rock art, Elephant Rocks and Aslan's camp ( apparently) and then through more kiwi than New Zealand rolling countryside . This included railway lines, a tunnel, rolling fields, more irrigation systems and a pub selling pies. But soon we were dropping down into the suburbs of Oamaru, to the hurly-burly of traffic and noise and to the ocean. Alps to Ocean. Done!Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
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    Mt Cook- Oamaru

    January 14 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    So what do you do when you've completed a ride from Alps to the Ocean? You return to the Alps. And then drive back to the Ocean.....
    There was a good wee weather window for the mt cook area so we took the bus transfer back to the mountains to pick up our van and after a quick swim/wash near Twizel we parked up at Lake Pukaki with the iconic views of Mt Cook and ,ironically, on the A2O.
    Separately our kiwi guide extraordinaire- Toni, and Kerry &Lucy had raved about the Mueller Hut hike and a severe case of FOMO soon saw us on the mountain equivalent of stair master. Even if a stair lift might have been more appropriate for us oldies, it was worth it as the clouds cleared revealing stunning views of Mt Sefton and the more retiring Mt Cook.
    Then, back to the Ocean!! The steampunk themed Oamaru beckoned    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    A2O day 3 & 4

    January 11 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We awoke to find Day 3 was the total weather wipe out as forecast and the smug-o meter was scoring high as we watched our fellow cyclists set off into the lashing rain with the occasional boom of thunder resonating around the valley. We occupied our time with coffee, table tennis, reading, driving , coffee, lunch , driving, snoozing and looking forlornly out of the window.
    However by 5.30 we'd had enough of that and a feint chink in the clouds was seen... we jumped into action and set off for our days cycle with rain clouds spitting at our heels and head torches just incase.
    But as forecast the evening dried out and as the wind blew us through the undulations of Sailors Cutting the sun finally came out around BenMore Dam where we were able to enjoy some of the best trail yet. Back at 8.30 pm to a picnic dinner and a great sleep.
    This. Took the pressure off day 4 and the weather had returned to normal- sunny with an increasing tail wind. and it's downhill and via an amazing cafe in Ritchie McCaws home town and an even better vineyard restaurant at RiverT - what's not to like? We meandered into our homely B&B late afternoon, feeling very satisfied...    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    A2O day 2

    January 10 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Plans for day 2 were dictated to a large part by poor weather forecast for day 3. What was meant to be a leisurely start and a short 40 k day changed to an early car transfer 30k down the road and a hitch hike back from a lovely 4-square supermarket delivery lorry driver. Then on the bikes and knock off our days cycling by lunchtime. Just as well as the headwinds as we got to the lake were pretty tough.
    After refuelling at Lake Ohau lodge we then headed off to do half of day 3 , heading up to the high point of the route, with the strengthening wind now on our backs. From the top we had the most delightful 30k downhill, first on lovely single track, then on super smooth gravel, finishing with a bit of empty tarmac. This is why we go cycling! The last km or so into Omarama turned back into the wind and reminded us we were still human.
    The van was waiting for us at the Wrinkly Ram and 30 minutes later we were back at Lake Ohau Lodge for a lovely communal dinner, safe and smug in the knowledge that half of day 3 is done before the "weather bomb" arrives...    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    A2O. Day 1

    January 9 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our first day of the Alps to Ocean was a drive up to mount Cook village, snuggled under the highest peak in New Zealand, and a cycle back to base. Problem is there's a large river in the way. So in true kiwi fashion the ride starts with a wee heli ride across the Tasman glacier outflow to be dropped off in the middle of nowhere.
    The wind was wild to start with but assisted us descending down to Lake Pukaki on single track and then a mixture of too- shingly road and made MTB track along the eastern shores of the lake. The lake has it classy photogenic colours from the glacial silt that feeds into it. Despite this, after 40 k of lake (yes, it's huge) we could no longer resist a dip in the glacial water. Just about enough to revive us as it was damn hot- we were properly Cooking. The wind also turned into a mean south westerly for the last bit, but by this time we were on a cool lakeside track then an even better single track dropping onto the pukaki flats/ lake outflow and home to get horizontal asap. A big day in big country.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    2

    A2O

    January 8 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Three more nights back " home" in Wanaka ( in my dreams!). Mainly chilling, a bit of biking , a bit of weird skin reaction that needed an( independent!) doctors attention and then Kerry dropped in with Lucy! A wonderful 24 hrs catching up with them, with not an ounce of van envy... honest. We had a couple of walks and a lovely meal out at the treehouse again 😊
    But all good things must come to an end and we waved goodbye to the girls as they continued their odyssey southwards and we dragged ourselves away from Wanaka to head northwards to Twizel/ Mt Cook to start the A2O. The Alps to Ocean is a 5 day "great ride" from the high country at the base of Mt Cook to the coast at Oamaru . May the weather be fair and the wind from behind.....    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1
    11

    Hump Ridge Track

    January 5 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Humpridge track is the newest of the NZ " great walks" and slightly different from the standard DOC organised ones- better huts, better accomodation options - and more expensive. However it is managed privately so you avoid the Glastonbury- like rush to nail your hike the day bookings become available. Which is probably why we ended up here inthe furthest south westerly part of habitated main land NewZealand.
    And worth the significant drive it was. The hike ( "tramp" in kiwi-speak) is a fantastic mix of wild beaches, primeval forest and lofty mountains. It's a fairly long yomp- 20k on each of 3 days, with 1000m ascent on day one- but this means you feel like you're getting deep into the heart of nowhere. Day 1 ended up clouding in, so we had no views from the hut on arrival, but the warped forest draped in moss and lichens in the quiet clag was almost a spiritual experience.
    Day 2 we woke to clear blue skies and a the sun rising across the bay. No wind alllowed the first half of day 2 to be a delight - in and out of the tree line . A feature of this hike , rightly or wrongly , is the interminable boardwalk and wooden cut steps. A little sanitised but it meant there was little chance of muddy shoes despite being in the back of nowhere where annual rainfall might be 7m!
    The boardwalk took us back down to sea level where we then followed an old logging track over some impressive timber viaducts to our overnight amongst the fascinating mechanical debris of a old logging settlement. We then had the full kiwi naturalist experience of keas, swimming with hectors dolphins tempered by omnipresent sandflies....
    Day 3 was a long flat walk out through forest alive with birdsong and along beaches, leaving us wanting more.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    21

    Catlins

    January 1 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Persuaded by Colin and Mary after their time in Balcutha we felt obliged to visit the Catlins, in the far south east. Note the word east: we were in the west so this meant traversing the whole country which , of course, was bigger and took longer than expected....
    We still found time for some lovely coastal scenery, waterfalls, caves and rolling scenery very reminiscent of of the Borders. Very nice.but we now had to traverse back across to the far south west for our next instalment...    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    Te Anau

    December 29, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Eventually dragged ourselves out of Wanaka. Back on the road again! Te Anau and meeting up with Ruaraidh Ellison, GP and Stirling/ Park Terrace connections. Hiked up Key summit in great weather with fab views into Fiordland.
    Then got bogged down with van hassle. Firstly a realisation that freedom camping is very carefully controlled by DOC, and no spaces. Secondly, an unsuccessful crawl around multiple rammed camp sites looking for a space. Finally found space in a featureless and amenity-less Andy's place out of town. Settling in we discovered we're out of gas. A crawl around Te Anau revealed no replacement, not until after new year....arrgh!
    The next day made up for it, though. A tramp up to Gertrude's saddle alongside waterfalls, up slabs and across snowfield took us to a stunning view down to Milford Sound. Wow! We've done plenty of walking but can't think of many that pack so much into 4 hours!
    Returning to Te Anau we spent the night at Liz Scott's. Liz is also a Te Anau GP who we worked with in Nepal. A lovely evening reminiscing over a plate of Daal Baat , with a bit of sheep milking thrown in!
    New Year's Eve. Such expectations wherever you are... we spent the day being tourists on a doubtful sound cruise- the only way you can access this part of Fiordland without seriously committing tramping, rain, impassable rivers and sandflies. It was a besutiful calm day , the captain reckoned the calmest he'd seen the mouth of the fiord in 5 years! The view west out across the infinite ocean almost as mesmerising as the mountains!
    However Hogmanay was not over yet and we started making our way south for the bright lights- well, glow worms in the clifden caves. 😆 We saw the new year in parked up in a slightly dodgy local park , but with cheese biscuits and a lovely pinot noir, a lovely night all the same . happy new year!!    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    Wanaka.3

    December 28, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    3 more days of pootling, mountain biking, park run, coffee, jigsaws, sleep, yoga a great mountain walk( isthmus peak) and a fantastic dinner out ( thank you Kerry!) kept us very occupied and very happy. Wanaka just keeps delivering!Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    Wanaka.2

    December 25, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    More running, yoga, a bit of lovely flowy MTB and great coffee options and we were feeling quite at home in wanaka.
    Next big day out was the Lake Dunstsan bike trail-42 k of pristine new trail with cantilevered boardwalks, swithbacks and suspension bridges. Also a great vineyard and a floating barista boat half way! Great weather and a lift home inclusive: magic! An early Christmas pressie was a team sauna with cold dips in lake Hawea 😊
    Christmas Eve involved some panic shopping squeezed around a walk to Rob Roy glacier. Dinner out at the treehouse topped off a very complete day.
    Christmas was a damp affair but still squeezed in a Dumyat- Substitute Mt Iron, coffee before a relaxed lunch and an airport drop off
    Merry Christmas!🎅    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    Wanaka.1

    December 22, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Abandoning Auckland, we took a flight to Christchurch and picked up our Kiwi Campers Campervan. Perhaps you should expect to get what you paid for, and we did think it rather good value.....the van certainly has seen better days- but we weren't quite expecting how many better days that might be.... Although everything seems to work, pretty much everything you can imagine is broken, if that makes sense? However, despite 350,000km, it seems to drive reasonably well...
    We made a bee line south, and with cold, drizzly and gusty conditions, parked up by Lake Opuha and had a surprisingly comfortable but chilly night .
    We woke to blue skies and got on the road early- with pit stops at Fairlie ( Fairlie good pies), Tekapo( lake views) and Twizel( coffee) we arrived in Wanaka to be blown away by the view, and gob-smacked at the bach Dean & Nicky have very kindly lent us for the Christmas period. It's likely we might never stay in the van....
    Ewen and Antonia arrived by plane/ bus shortly after us and, like kids at Christmas(?), we were soon out exploring the lake side trails to GlenDhu Bay on foot or by bike.
    Next day we wanted a Big Hike so opted for Roy's Peak. This has a bit of an insta reputation, we're told, for the classic view down a serrated arête overlooking lake wanaka. Maybe that explained the mobbed car park at 7.45 am. We soon realised it was dec21- the longest day - and as we walked upwards we passed maybe a couple of hundred folk (of a certain age) zombiefied by the early start for the mid summer dawn photo. Very impressed that the insta obsession can drag folk out of bed at 5am to climb a chilly 800m!!
    We had an ace up our sleeve though, which was to continue off the back of Roys peak, over Alpha peak and along the skyline path. Excellent tramping with stupendous views but the 7hrs one way meant the crowds instantly disappeared after Roy's peak and we pretty much had the rest of the tramp to ourselves. Fantastic hike!    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    Auckland

    December 17, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We returned to Ewen and Antonia's flat in Auckland as some of us had night shifts in ED, some had appraisals, some had interviews and some old git had a birthday.
    We had a lovely relaxed few days exploring locally on foot and by bike. We caught up with Nicola and Chris Coombes who had generously hosted us on each of our previous trips. I had a birthday surprise trip to the All Blacks experience: the skills stations suggested the only thing I have in common with the All Blacks is being a bad loser. Next day Hels and I borrowed the bikes again and headed over to Waiheke on the ferry. What a wonderful place- coffee, vineyards and lovely food, linked by hilly wiggly roads perfect for biking ( apart from some particularly steep hills). We ended up at Batch winery sharing a lovely tasting platter and a Merlot straight from the vines. What a lovely day out rounded off perfectly with dinner at Ragtag and a drink or two dodging the trombone player .
    A bit of Christmas shopping a haircut or two, a bit of life-min and we're ready for South Island adventures🙂    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
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    Back in the Bay of Islands

    December 14, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Just a quick hop across the Tasman and hey! We're back in New Zealand! It almost felt like coming home, but the homecoming was tarnished by long queues through the something to declare queue due to muddy shoes...
    An uber into Auckland and Ewen and Antonia's flat, slap bang in the centre. Toni very kindly russled up some yummy pasta then we had a wander round the corner to the harbour front and a million works Christmas parties!
    Ewen returned from work at some ungodly hour but we were ready to hit the road in the ever reliable Bev ( car) by 8am😳.
    Heading North , Toni had spied a brilliant local market in Matakana, well worth the detour,and I had spotted some famous toilets in Kawakawa, also worth a ( smaller) detour. If you are in to toilets. Or the architect, Hundertwasser. I am one of those, I'll let you decide which.
    This was all a pre-amble to a return to Russell, in the Bay of Islands, where we lived and worked for a few months in 2011.
    It was great for at least 3 of us to wander the streets, past the old school, old medical practice and old house- all within 100yds of each other. The place looked just as quaint, just as lovely, as we remembered. A swim at the town beach in memory of regattas past, and walked the route of the famous flagstaff hill race where I pushed past crowds of barefoot 12 yr olds to storm to victory.
    The next day we drove the long and winding road to Rawhiti ( aren't all roads here long and winding?) to pick up a water taxi out to Deep Water Cove. This allowed us to take 10k off the Cape Brett Trail , making it feasible as a out and back day walk. Or so we thought.
    The route was amazing , snaking through the bush to the ridge line which it then sinuously followed out to the lighthouse with views out to the hole- in- the-rock rock. Spectacular. Then we reversed the route. By the time were back where we started we were beginning to realise we'd underestimated the hardness of the trail- relentless up/ down , up / down and overestimated our meagre rations. We still had another 10k to go. Although Tonis amazing homemade muffins and 100% renewable-electricity-made wriggly worms got us through the feared 3rd quarter and and home, we got to rationing the water to the sip and googling can you drink nz stream water (and other things)
    A cheeky little not- ok diversion at the end across Oki beach threw in a do or die race against the waves. Result: 3-1 to the sea.
    However, as is always the way (think lake matiri hut and many others) and through the perspective of a nice dinner and a beer or two it all seemed like a jolly good adventure later.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
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    Tasmania- Tasman peninsula

    December 5, 2025 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Tasmania is a small
    Island of the coast of Australia: right? We're only visiting one small part of it: right? So why does it take hours to drive from one bit to another? Hmm...
    Our crack of dawn start transpired into an 11 o'clock start for our hike. Fortunately the vagaries of the Tasmanian weather means that overwhelming 32deg storm force winds one day is breezy and cool 18 deg the next day..
    Cape Huay and views of the iconic Totem Pole sufficed today. We followed this with a visit to Port Arthur - another impressive Victorian era convict site and then some weird "tessellated pavements" before back to "Adrift" at "Flotsam and Jetsam" and some R &R . Well, an hour or so....    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
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    Tasmania East Coast-Bicheno

    December 4, 2025 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Hit the road, Jack, to get up to the eastern Tassie coast- beaches, coffee and wine were promised. Headed to the Freycinet peninsula to run/walk the iconic Wineglass Bay trail, returning via Hazards beach in increasing heat.
    There's a reason it's (one of) the most popular day hike(s) in Tasmania- the hike takes you through the Hazard mountains, littered with colossal granite boulders to a breathtaking view out over a perfect crescent of unspoilt sand. Dropping down to the beaches the several hundred steps allowed the crowds to thin out somewhat.
    A couple of wallabies , one with a Joey in the pouch. Nice! On the way back I also saw an echinda and became very excited about these weird monotremes.
    Fluids, coffee and ice creams revived and we squeezed another couple of beaches- sleepy and honeymoon- before heading to our motel in Bicheno and a lovely lobster roll at the destination Lobster Shack for tea.
    Pre breakkie car recovery run for me whilst Helen joined the Bicheno Bathers for a morning dip. Breakfast with the school drop off then a short drive to Apsley Gorge, though not before a long chat about snakes, snake packs and shark bands with Hels' swimming buddies 😳.
    We did see a tiger snake, but he was more interested in getting out of our way and actually swam awayelegantly across the river! The walk was an hour or so bushwhacking before an excellent boulder hop down the gorge with beautiful, albeit cold, swimming holes.
    What better way to counter all this activity but some tassie wine tasting then the ashes?    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    1

    Tasmania-Hobart

    December 3, 2025 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    2 days in Melbourne and we needed to jump on a plane to Tasmania to dry out!!
    Hobart is a satisfyingly small city and easy to navigate. Bus drivers were chummy and in no time we had booked into our historic waterfront hotel and were out again on the water taxi to MONA- the museum of old and new art, a provocative Tasmanian institution. And we certainly had our artistic neurones stimulated in many ways.....
    The next day we caught the tourist bus half way up Mt Wellington- and walked the rest. An amazing 1200 m mountain that looms over the city. What an amazing place to live! We rounded off the day with a visit to the " female factory" and learned some of the horrific ( female) convict history, before wandering down the Hobart Rivulet and back home.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler

    Melbourne-a family reunion

    December 3, 2025 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Overnight flight with Quantas was delayed by a couple of hours- the first inefficiency we have met in Japan! But it meant that those in Melbourne had a few more hours kippage and we arrived to be picked up by Kerry soon to be whisked across Melbourne and out for a yummy brunch with Ewen and Antonia, who'd flown across from NZ for the weekend. How very exciting to all be together- and maybe the only time for quite a while to come....😔
    A wander around the streets and parks of Melbourne dodging showers- and the coldest first day of summer for 40 yrs!!
    So, keen to meet Kerry's boyf James, we arranged an early rendezvous at 5 and put him through The Randfield Test- no colander of death , just vast amounts of beer and wine- which he ably matched. Well done ,James- and welcome!!
    Not surprisingly the next day was a bit of a write off with hangovers dictating a slow pace. But lovely to wander Kerry's Fitzroy.    Read more

  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Traveler
    21

    Land of the rising sun: reflections?

    November 28, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    What a great holiday! Amazing history sites and activities- but even more so the cultural difference in every walk of life. Made us question so many things about western culture. So many differences with all aspects of life. Supposedly due to / exaggerated by 200 years of closed borders and cultural isolation.
    So polite. So kind! How many times were we greeted with a konnitchiwa and a deferential bow? Try doing it whilst you're jogging!! No crime. An embarrassment to raise your voice or loose your rag.
    Personal space is respected, despite folk living on top of each other.
    Houses seem to be made from cardboard. No insulation. Central heating is sitting under a blanket at a heated table.
    No doors on hinges: everything slides...and don't forget to duck!
    No beds! Futons, tatami mats and weird buckwheat pillows.
    Where do we start with bathrooms?squashed baths. But don't shower in the bath but on the floor beside. Or better still, neither: go to the onsen( public shared baths). And make sure you're clean before going in the bath. And no clothes!
    And, like first love, who will ever forget their first experience of the Japanese toilet? Unfailingly clean , welcome heated seat and an array of cleansing options - even in rural public toilets.
    The beer is good, but let's face it , sake is best left for cleaning paintbrushes.
    Expect to eat anything and everything: its unlikely to be cooked- either you eat it raw or you cook it at the table. I doubt you'll see a knife and fork. But stumbling through a meal with chopsticks slows everything down and increases the enjoyment. The diet is so healthy: obesity rates were something like 3% ( wrt 30% in the uk). Lots of oldies - many still "occupied" with road sweeping/ managing diversions/ driving local buses.
    Don't ever jay walk. And don't walk on escalators ( except in Tokyo). Despite all this, everything works: everything's on time. The only thing that was delayed was our Quanta's flight on departure!
    No bins- take your rubbish home! Yet so much plastic packaging! And who needs so many individually packaged wet wipes?
    Books read backwards- why not? And arguably preferential for a leftie. 3 Japanese alphabets!!
    Loved the minimalist art and architecture- although the zen garden left me thinking... why? Everything is meticulously chosen or placed, yet nothing is quite "perfect"- that's wabi sabi. Perfect imperfection.
    What a great country!    Read more

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