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Winter 2025-26
  • Simon Randfield
  • Simon Randfield

Winter 2025-26

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    10 listopada 2025
    Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Toky-oh

    14 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    And they're off! A whirlwind few days in Tokyo as an abrupt and deep-dive into Japan and Japanese culture. Fantastically bewildering!!
    So what have we learned?
    Tokyo is very large: our central hotel was the best part of an hours commute from the .... centre.
    There's lots of people here. 14 million, 11% of Japan's population- and all on the Shinjuku subway every morning.
    Folk here have learned to live close together. Apart from cramming onto the subway, everyone respects each others space.
    Follow the rules. Don't jay-walk.
    Shintō shrines vs Buddhist temples...
    The fish market isn't a fish market anymore. Unless you go to the fish market.
    Very polite and helpful folk.
    Food has not disappointed- although haven't tried the pork rectum yet..
    Cycle where you wish and don't bother looking! You can actually relie on drivers looking out for you. ( please don't take this literally..)
    I want an all singing all scrubbing all dancing Japanese toilet !!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Okayama

    14 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Phew! Out of Tokyo and 3hrs on the Shinkansen, effortless travelling, to Okayama.
    Here as a stop off for Naoshima, but found some rickety old bikes to follow the Kibiji cycle path out of town. A bit like cycling out of Falkirk on the forth and Clyde canal, but with some Shintō shrines at the end. You're not going to find those in Bonnybridge!
    Back to base then a dusk walk down to the castle and gardens. Tonight's the night they put the winter lights on!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    111

    Naoshima

    15 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    An hour from Okayama, by multiple local trains and a ferry, lies Naoshima. Previously a run down backwater- a mix of rural depopulation and a copper mine denuding the local nature- it was transformed into an "Art Island" with the establishment of the brutalist concrete Benesse museum and a couple of Yayoi Kusama pumpkins. Since then it continues to flourish with more installations, sculptures , art houses and galleries.
    Apart from the melee getting off the ferry and picking up one of the electric bikes to get you around the island, it's been a perfect antidote to the frenetic urban cacophony we've experienced so far in Japan     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    2
    2112We❤️shinanami!

    Shimanami Kaido

    17 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had a second, leisurely day on Naoshima mooching around coffee shops and "art houses". Japanese minimalism at its best. Then back to Okayama for the night and an early morning Shinkansen to Onomichi, the start of the shimanami Kaido- a " must do" bike ride linking multiple islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Very well developed in as much as there are brilliant cycle specific lanes winding up ( and down) from each bridge - never more than 3% and 80m- but the islands themselves are a mix of bucolic orange orchards above crisp sandy beaches and industrial units and ship building. Sort of like the Clyde once was, maybe? With citrus instead of Irn Bru..
    And continuing the Scottish analogy , it makes you realise the 5 ferries could put Scotland on the international cycling map if the ferries were reliable. Or there were bridges. And it was sunny. And no midges. And drivers weren't trying to to kill you.
    Any which way, it was great to be on the bike again.
    We got to our Ryokan just as the clouds rolled in, the rain started and it went dark. Time for a quick splash in the onsen then a magnificent feast on all sorts of unrecognisable seafood.
    After the best nights sleep on futons and tatami and a magnificent Japanese breakfast we were off early on our return journey. Expecting biting cold and horrific head winds we lucked out by taking a circuitous detour which all but kept out of the wind. This time we had a bridge , a ferry, 3 bridges, a ferry, a bridge and a final ferry back to Onamichi. Brilliant , well recommended!!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1

    Kyoto

    19 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    What trip to Japan could not include Kyoto? The historical capital and cultural centre of the country is stacked full of imperial palaces, Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples ,Shoguns, Samurai and Geisha. What's less clear on the packaging is that its a city of 1.5 million, and all the above are scattered around this metropolis , making it a bit overwhelming to find your way around. Added to this every corner shop is a UNESCO world heritage site and is called something-ji.
    so we elected to take a bike tour to suss the place out . Inauspiciously, our guide was the unlikely "only Argentinian in town", Alex. However living in Japan for 10 years with a Japanese wife his outside/ inside perspective was fascinating.
    We've lucked out and the ephemeral autumn colours are at their peak- we never thought we'd get so excited about gardens! But Japan nails the imperfect perfection or wabi sabi of everything being just right in these amazing spaces.
    Day 2 and 3 in Kyoto saw us exploring more shrines and temples, gardens and coffee shops. We hit some of the blue riband sites and with that the crowds!! Whoa! So busy!! We took solace in Japanese food which continued to surprise and stimulate.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    111

    Kumano Kodo day 1

    22 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    So begins 4 days trekking in the remote mountains of the Kii peninsula: the Kumano Kodo. This route follows one of the ancient pilgrimage routes dating back more than than 1000 years linking 3 grand shrines where Shinto and Buddhism have intertwined with the local geography.
    From the 11th century pilgrims have visited the Kumano to train their souls to reach paradise.
    Let's see how we get on.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    11111

    Kumano Kodo day 3

    24 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Another stunning day on the Kumamo. In just a few km we reached the end of our pilgrimage, the Hongu Taisha. It was really quite impressive and lively with the sound of chanting, drumming and the thrum of tourists. We spent a wee while ringing bells, bowing and clapping with the peaceful crowds, and once fully spiritually awakened, went for a coffee. At this point we decided we wanted to walk on to our nights accomodation rather than the planned series of buses, so up and over to the first onsen ( hot springs) where we boiled some eggs then on down the valley across bridges and through tunnels to our hotel.hotel tonight was somewhat more glamorous than the rustic home stays to date and we swanned around in our kimonos for a while. Our hotel is built around an onsen , so instead of immersing eggs we immersed ourselves and had a lovely soak as dusk fell watching red kites fly up and down the valley and the moon rise over the trees. Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    11

    Kumano Kodo day 4

    25 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Accommodation last night was very different from the previous nights home stays -a big lux hotel with an onsen- shared natural hot baths. Once we had negotiated the dos and donts of onsen behaviour - mainly revolving around soap, slippers and ( lack of) clothing, we were able to come to a slow simmer in a pit dug in the side of the riverbed outside the hotel.
    Later I was like a kid at Christmas in the all you can eat Japanese buffet, and felt quite the part in my kimono/yukata combo, apparent from trying not to flash the waitress.
    All this led to a good nights sleep ( for me) and a pre dawn start. We decided to rip up the agenda/ route set to finish or trek in style and took a bus to kogechi, allowing us to complete the trip as we started it- on foot. This did mean traversing the " body breaking slope" and "abode of the dead", but allowed us to drop down into Nachi Taisha, a fitting end to our odyssey. What we hadnt planned for was dreich cold weather , and thick cloud, so a different vibe today. Though I'd be happy for the sunny weather we'd had so far to have continued, the misty clag gave a spooky ethereal feel: abode of the dead indeed. This section of trail was remote but a combination of Japanese infrastructure and technology meant there was one of the ubiquitous vending machines at 800m half way, where we discovered they dispensed hot coffee and hot soup!
    A long descent through the cloud base at the end was frustrated by the lack of gaps in the trees so we could only imagine the fantastic views of vertiginous mountain slopes, swirling clouds and distant Pacific Ocean... some price for trees!
    Arriving at Nachisen/Nachi Taisha was arriving in a different world- bus tours and folk everywhere. But another sacred Buddhist / Shinto space. Here is the highest waterfall in Japan- the Nachi Taisha, so beautiful that it became an object of worship itself. Deification of natural objects is a common feature of the kumano Shintoism and what makes walking through this landscape more special.
    A bus down to the coast and we were back in a fancy hotel with a flurry of slippers, kimonos, tatami and onsens. Dinner was a veritable feast- the best meal yet, multiple courses, served either raw or cooked at the table, all served in intricate pottery .God help the washer- up.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Nara

    27 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Fantastic Ryokan in Ki-katsuura. The best food ( dinner and breakfast, both virtually interchangeable) and all sorts of onsens, including one a boat trip away in a cave where I think thunderbird 2 used to park.
    Then an effortless 4 hours of trains back north to Nara.
    Nara used to be the capital of Japan, before Kyoto, before Tokyo. Therefore it has a fair smattering of old temples and a more relaxed town atmosphere on the edge of parkland and countryside. We elected for a dawn visit to the must-see great Buddha- we were actually there before they opened!- but beat the crowds. Then a wander round a load more parkland, temples of every shape and size perused by the omnipresent sicka deer.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    21

    Land of the rising sun: reflections?

    28 listopada 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    What a great holiday! Amazing history sites and activities- but even more so the cultural difference in every walk of life. Made us question so many things about western culture. So many differences with all aspects of life. Supposedly due to / exaggerated by 200 years of closed borders and cultural isolation.
    So polite. So kind! How many times were we greeted with a konnitchiwa and a deferential bow? Try doing it whilst you're jogging!! No crime. An embarrassment to raise your voice or loose your rag.
    Personal space is respected, despite folk living on top of each other.
    Houses seem to be made from cardboard. No insulation. Central heating is sitting under a blanket at a heated table.
    No doors on hinges: everything slides...and don't forget to duck!
    No beds! Futons, tatami mats and weird buckwheat pillows.
    Where do we start with bathrooms?squashed baths. But don't shower in the bath but on the floor beside. Or better still, neither: go to the onsen( public shared baths). And make sure you're clean before going in the bath. And no clothes!
    And, like first love, who will ever forget their first experience of the Japanese toilet? Unfailingly clean , welcome heated seat and an array of cleansing options - even in rural public toilets.
    The beer is good, but let's face it , sake is best left for cleaning paintbrushes.
    Expect to eat anything and everything: its unlikely to be cooked- either you eat it raw or you cook it at the table. I doubt you'll see a knife and fork. But stumbling through a meal with chopsticks slows everything down and increases the enjoyment. The diet is so healthy: obesity rates were something like 3% ( wrt 30% in the uk). Lots of oldies - many still "occupied" with road sweeping/ managing diversions/ driving local buses.
    Don't ever jay walk. And don't walk on escalators ( except in Tokyo). Despite all this, everything works: everything's on time. The only thing that was delayed was our Quanta's flight on departure!
    No bins- take your rubbish home! Yet so much plastic packaging! And who needs so many individually packaged wet wipes?
    Books read backwards- why not? And arguably preferential for a leftie. 3 Japanese alphabets!!
    Loved the minimalist art and architecture- although the zen garden left me thinking... why? Everything is meticulously chosen or placed, yet nothing is quite "perfect"- that's wabi sabi. Perfect imperfection.
    What a great country!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Melbourne-a family reunion

    3 grudnia 2025, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Overnight flight with Quantas was delayed by a couple of hours- the first inefficiency we have met in Japan! But it meant that those in Melbourne had a few more hours kippage and we arrived to be picked up by Kerry soon to be whisked across Melbourne and out for a yummy brunch with Ewen and Antonia, who'd flown across from NZ for the weekend. How very exciting to all be together- and maybe the only time for quite a while to come....😔
    A wander around the streets and parks of Melbourne dodging showers- and the coldest first day of summer for 40 yrs!!
    So, keen to meet Kerry's boyf James, we arranged an early rendezvous at 5 and put him through The Randfield Test- no colander of death , just vast amounts of beer and wine- which he ably matched. Well done ,James- and welcome!!
    Not surprisingly the next day was a bit of a write off with hangovers dictating a slow pace. But lovely to wander Kerry's Fitzroy.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1

    Tasmania-Hobart

    3 grudnia 2025, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    2 days in Melbourne and we needed to jump on a plane to Tasmania to dry out!!
    Hobart is a satisfyingly small city and easy to navigate. Bus drivers were chummy and in no time we had booked into our historic waterfront hotel and were out again on the water taxi to MONA- the museum of old and new art, a provocative Tasmanian institution. And we certainly had our artistic neurones stimulated in many ways.....
    The next day we caught the tourist bus half way up Mt Wellington- and walked the rest. An amazing 1200 m mountain that looms over the city. What an amazing place to live! We rounded off the day with a visit to the " female factory" and learned some of the horrific ( female) convict history, before wandering down the Hobart Rivulet and back home.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1211

    Tasmania East Coast-Bicheno

    4 grudnia 2025, Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Hit the road, Jack, to get up to the eastern Tassie coast- beaches, coffee and wine were promised. Headed to the Freycinet peninsula to run/walk the iconic Wineglass Bay trail, returning via Hazards beach in increasing heat.
    There's a reason it's (one of) the most popular day hike(s) in Tasmania- the hike takes you through the Hazard mountains, littered with colossal granite boulders to a breathtaking view out over a perfect crescent of unspoilt sand. Dropping down to the beaches the several hundred steps allowed the crowds to thin out somewhat.
    A couple of wallabies , one with a Joey in the pouch. Nice! On the way back I also saw an echinda and became very excited about these weird monotremes.
    Fluids, coffee and ice creams revived and we squeezed another couple of beaches- sleepy and honeymoon- before heading to our motel in Bicheno and a lovely lobster roll at the destination Lobster Shack for tea.
    Pre breakkie car recovery run for me whilst Helen joined the Bicheno Bathers for a morning dip. Breakfast with the school drop off then a short drive to Apsley Gorge, though not before a long chat about snakes, snake packs and shark bands with Hels' swimming buddies 😳.
    We did see a tiger snake, but he was more interested in getting out of our way and actually swam awayelegantly across the river! The walk was an hour or so bushwhacking before an excellent boulder hop down the gorge with beautiful, albeit cold, swimming holes.
    What better way to counter all this activity but some tassie wine tasting then the ashes?     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    113

    Tasmania- Tasman peninsula

    5 grudnia 2025, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Tasmania is a small
    Island of the coast of Australia: right? We're only visiting one small part of it: right? So why does it take hours to drive from one bit to another? Hmm...
    Our crack of dawn start transpired into an 11 o'clock start for our hike. Fortunately the vagaries of the Tasmanian weather means that overwhelming 32deg storm force winds one day is breezy and cool 18 deg the next day..
    Cape Huay and views of the iconic Totem Pole sufficed today. We followed this with a visit to Port Arthur - another impressive Victorian era convict site and then some weird "tessellated pavements" before back to "Adrift" at "Flotsam and Jetsam" and some R &R . Well, an hour or so....     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    121

    Back in the Bay of Islands

    14 grudnia 2025, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Just a quick hop across the Tasman and hey! We're back in New Zealand! It almost felt like coming home, but the homecoming was tarnished by long queues through the something to declare queue due to muddy shoes...
    An uber into Auckland and Ewen and Antonia's flat, slap bang in the centre. Toni very kindly russled up some yummy pasta then we had a wander round the corner to the harbour front and a million works Christmas parties!
    Ewen returned from work at some ungodly hour but we were ready to hit the road in the ever reliable Bev ( car) by 8am😳.
    Heading North , Toni had spied a brilliant local market in Matakana, well worth the detour,and I had spotted some famous toilets in Kawakawa, also worth a ( smaller) detour. If you are in to toilets. Or the architect, Hundertwasser. I am one of those, I'll let you decide which.
    This was all a pre-amble to a return to Russell, in the Bay of Islands, where we lived and worked for a few months in 2011.
    It was great for at least 3 of us to wander the streets, past the old school, old medical practice and old house- all within 100yds of each other. The place looked just as quaint, just as lovely, as we remembered. A swim at the town beach in memory of regattas past, and walked the route of the famous flagstaff hill race where I pushed past crowds of barefoot 12 yr olds to storm to victory.
    The next day we drove the long and winding road to Rawhiti ( aren't all roads here long and winding?) to pick up a water taxi out to Deep Water Cove. This allowed us to take 10k off the Cape Brett Trail , making it feasible as a out and back day walk. Or so we thought.
    The route was amazing , snaking through the bush to the ridge line which it then sinuously followed out to the lighthouse with views out to the hole- in- the-rock rock. Spectacular. Then we reversed the route. By the time were back where we started we were beginning to realise we'd underestimated the hardness of the trail- relentless up/ down , up / down and overestimated our meagre rations. We still had another 10k to go. Although Tonis amazing homemade muffins and 100% renewable-electricity-made wriggly worms got us through the feared 3rd quarter and and home, we got to rationing the water to the sip and googling can you drink nz stream water (and other things)
    A cheeky little not- ok diversion at the end across Oki beach threw in a do or die race against the waves. Result: 3-1 to the sea.
    However, as is always the way (think lake matiri hut and many others) and through the perspective of a nice dinner and a beer or two it all seemed like a jolly good adventure later.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1

    Auckland

    17 grudnia 2025, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We returned to Ewen and Antonia's flat in Auckland as some of us had night shifts in ED, some had appraisals, some had interviews and some old git had a birthday.
    We had a lovely relaxed few days exploring locally on foot and by bike. We caught up with Nicola and Chris Coombes who had generously hosted us on each of our previous trips. I had a birthday surprise trip to the All Blacks experience: the skills stations suggested the only thing I have in common with the All Blacks is being a bad loser. Next day Hels and I borrowed the bikes again and headed over to Waiheke on the ferry. What a wonderful place- coffee, vineyards and lovely food, linked by hilly wiggly roads perfect for biking ( apart from some particularly steep hills). We ended up at Batch winery sharing a lovely tasting platter and a Merlot straight from the vines. What a lovely day out rounded off perfectly with dinner at Ragtag and a drink or two dodging the trombone player .
    A bit of Christmas shopping a haircut or two, a bit of life-min and we're ready for South Island adventures🙂     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Wanaka.1

    22 grudnia 2025, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Abandoning Auckland, we took a flight to Christchurch and picked up our Kiwi Campers Campervan. Perhaps you should expect to get what you paid for, and we did think it rather good value.....the van certainly has seen better days- but we weren't quite expecting how many better days that might be.... Although everything seems to work, pretty much everything you can imagine is broken, if that makes sense? However, despite 350,000km, it seems to drive reasonably well...
    We made a bee line south, and with cold, drizzly and gusty conditions, parked up by Lake Opuha and had a surprisingly comfortable but chilly night .
    We woke to blue skies and got on the road early- with pit stops at Fairlie ( Fairlie good pies), Tekapo( lake views) and Twizel( coffee) we arrived in Wanaka to be blown away by the view, and gob-smacked at the bach Dean & Nicky have very kindly lent us for the Christmas period. It's likely we might never stay in the van....
    Ewen and Antonia arrived by plane/ bus shortly after us and, like kids at Christmas(?), we were soon out exploring the lake side trails to GlenDhu Bay on foot or by bike.
    Next day we wanted a Big Hike so opted for Roy's Peak. This has a bit of an insta reputation, we're told, for the classic view down a serrated arête overlooking lake wanaka. Maybe that explained the mobbed car park at 7.45 am. We soon realised it was dec21- the longest day - and as we walked upwards we passed maybe a couple of hundred folk (of a certain age) zombiefied by the early start for the mid summer dawn photo. Very impressed that the insta obsession can drag folk out of bed at 5am to climb a chilly 800m!!
    We had an ace up our sleeve though, which was to continue off the back of Roys peak, over Alpha peak and along the skyline path. Excellent tramping with stupendous views but the 7hrs one way meant the crowds instantly disappeared after Roy's peak and we pretty much had the rest of the tramp to ourselves. Fantastic hike!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1

    Wanaka.2

    25 grudnia 2025, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    More running, yoga, a bit of lovely flowy MTB and great coffee options and we were feeling quite at home in wanaka.
    Next big day out was the Lake Dunstsan bike trail-42 k of pristine new trail with cantilevered boardwalks, swithbacks and suspension bridges. Also a great vineyard and a floating barista boat half way! Great weather and a lift home inclusive: magic! An early Christmas pressie was a team sauna with cold dips in lake Hawea 😊
    Christmas Eve involved some panic shopping squeezed around a walk to Rob Roy glacier. Dinner out at the treehouse topped off a very complete day.
    Christmas was a damp affair but still squeezed in a Dumyat- Substitute Mt Iron, coffee before a relaxed lunch and an airport drop off
    Merry Christmas!🎅     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik

    Te Anau

    29 grudnia 2025, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Eventually dragged ourselves out of Wanaka. Back on the road again! Te Anau and meeting up with Ruaraidh Ellison, GP and Stirling/ Park Terrace connections. Hiked up Key summit in great weather with fab views into Fiordland.
    Then got bogged down with van hassle. Firstly a realisation that freedom camping is very carefully controlled by DOC, and no spaces. Secondly, an unsuccessful crawl around multiple rammed camp sites looking for a space. Finally found space in a featureless and amenity-less Andy's place out of town. Settling in we discovered we're out of gas. A crawl around Te Anau revealed no replacement, not until after new year....arrgh!
    The next day made up for it, though. A tramp up to Gertrude's saddle alongside waterfalls, up slabs and across snowfield took us to a stunning view down to Milford Sound. Wow! We've done plenty of walking but can't think of many that pack so much into 4 hours!
    Returning to Te Anau we spent the night at Liz Scott's. Liz is also a Te Anau GP who we worked with in Nepal. A lovely evening reminiscing over a plate of Daal Baat , with a bit of sheep milking thrown in!
    New Year's Eve. Such expectations wherever you are... we spent the day being tourists on a doubtful sound cruise- the only way you can access this part of Fiordland without seriously committing tramping, rain, impassable rivers and sandflies. It was a besutiful calm day , the captain reckoned the calmest he'd seen the mouth of the fiord in 5 years! The view west out across the infinite ocean almost as mesmerising as the mountains!
    However Hogmanay was not over yet and we started making our way south for the bright lights- well, glow worms in the clifden caves. 😆 We saw the new year in parked up in a slightly dodgy local park , but with cheese biscuits and a lovely pinot noir, a lovely night all the same . happy new year!!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    21

    Catlins

    1 stycznia, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Persuaded by Colin and Mary after their time in Balcutha we felt obliged to visit the Catlins, in the far south east. Note the word east: we were in the west so this meant traversing the whole country which , of course, was bigger and took longer than expected....
    We still found time for some lovely coastal scenery, waterfalls, caves and rolling scenery very reminiscent of of the Borders. Very nice.but we now had to traverse back across to the far south west for our next instalment...     Czytaj więcej

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  • Simon RandfieldWinter 2025-26Podróżnik
    1
    11

    Hump Ridge Track

    5 stycznia, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Humpridge track is the newest of the NZ " great walks" and slightly different from the standard DOC organised ones- better huts, better accomodation options - and more expensive. However it is managed privately so you avoid the Glastonbury- like rush to nail your hike the day bookings become available. Which is probably why we ended up here inthe furthest south westerly part of habitated main land NewZealand.
    And worth the significant drive it was. The hike ( "tramp" in kiwi-speak) is a fantastic mix of wild beaches, primeval forest and lofty mountains. It's a fairly long yomp- 20k on each of 3 days, with 1000m ascent on day one- but this means you feel like you're getting deep into the heart of nowhere. Day 1 ended up clouding in, so we had no views from the hut on arrival, but the warped forest draped in moss and lichens in the quiet clag was almost a spiritual experience.
    Day 2 we woke to clear blue skies and a the sun rising across the bay. No wind alllowed the first half of day 2 to be a delight - in and out of the tree line . A feature of this hike , rightly or wrongly , is the interminable boardwalk and wooden cut steps. A little sanitised but it meant there was little chance of muddy shoes despite being in the back of nowhere where annual rainfall might be 7m!
    The boardwalk took us back down to sea level where we then followed an old logging track over some impressive timber viaducts to our overnight amongst the fascinating mechanical debris of a old logging settlement. We then had the full kiwi naturalist experience of keas, swimming with hectors dolphins tempered by omnipresent sandflies....
    Day 3 was a long flat walk out through forest alive with birdsong and along beaches, leaving us wanting more.     Czytaj więcej

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