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Amsterdam March 2023Amsterdam March 2023
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The trip was a birthday gift from my family. Read more
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  • Norman GrahamAmsterdam March 2023
    Day 1

    Off to Amsterdam!

    March 23, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The alarm went off at 0430 but I was already awake. It's always the same when I am going on a trip, I tend not to sleep very well, possibly subconsciously worrying about sleeping in! Barbara and I got up, and after a quick shower and breakfast we were ready to go when our lift to the airport arrived. We arrived at 0600 and with only hand baggage, we were through security within 15 minutes. The flight was on time and it felt like we had only just taken off when we were landing in Amsterdam.

    Schiphol is a very big airport but we had no trouble finding our way to the train station connected to the airport. It was a bit confusing at first but we worked out which train we needed to get, and how to get a ticket, we had to ask a member of the train staff where to get the right train. I have to say that if there is an information point in the train station, it's not obvious, but again we asked someone on the platform who assured us we were on the right train.

    As a UK citizen it can be daunting going abroad because we are not great at learning other languages, and Dutch looks and sounds like an improbable and difficult language. Fortunately, as far as I can tell, every Dutch person speaks great English, which for us made everything a lot easier, and in my experience, every Dutch person we interacted with was helpful and friendly.

    By the time we arrived at Centraal Station in the heart of Amsterdam, we were very hungry, so we went for some lunch in a pancake restaurant of which there are quite a few in Amsterdam. It was ok but not great.

    We had a few hours to kill before we could check into our hotel, so we wandered around a bit, we found our way to the Anne Frank House for which we have booked tickets for the Sunday and then wandered around a bit more, but eventually we felt we should go to the hotel and try our luck with checking in. We decided to get a taxi (expensive in Amsterdam) because we had no idea which bus/tram to get, but we thought (correctly) that the staff at the hotel could give us that info for the rest of our trip. Trams are the best way to get around and are easy to use, you can buy a ticket allowing unlimited journey's for 1, 2, 3 days or more. The ticket becomes valid from the moment of first use. Top tip - you have to tap the ticket on the sensor when you get on AND off the tram otherwise it invalidates the ticket. The taxi to the hotel was indeed expensive and we arrived about an hour before check in but the room was ready and we were welcomed in.

    We were staying at the Best Western, and found it to be comfortable rather than luxurious, but spotlessly clean and throughout our stay we found the staff to be friendly and very helpful. We were tired so booked dinner and breakfast and went for a snooze.

    The dinner was 24.50 euro each which we thought was quite reasonable, again it was a buffet style and there was plenty to choose from and it all looked really good. Unfortunately the chef could not guarantee that there was no sesame, poppy or peanuts in the food and since they would put me into anaphylactic shock, I sat down to eat what would be the most expensive salad I ever had. However, the chef came over and asked if I liked meat, to which I said yes, and about 15 minutes later he came over to our table with a large grilled steak he had cooked especially for me. I was very grateful for his thoughtfulness, a trait that seems very common among the Dutch. The steak was amazing.

    My first impression of Amsterdam was that it is the busiest city I've ever been to apart from London, it was rammed and it wasn't even the main tourist season. The city, at least the 'old' part is architecturally very interesting, I have never been in a city with such a diverse range of style of buildings, every building is different from the one next to it, and many could only be described as a bit wonky. As you move away from the centre the buildings become more 1960's and 70's utilitarian blocks of flats which then give way to more modern and stylish but nonetheless utilitarian blocks of flats.

    The old town is not very clean but it is so busy it's difficult to see how it could be anything else with so many tourists. It is fairly easy to navigate as it is built around concentric circles of canals. The canals are as lovely as the postcard version, what you don't get on the postcard is the crowds and traffic. You need your wits about you when crossing roads, there are a lot of electric cars which you can't hear and bikes are everywhere and come (fast) from every direction, and even if the light is green for you to cross, it doesn't mean that bikes will stop. Cobbled streets are hard on the feet so if you are going to walk wear something comfortably cushioned.

    So on our first day we didn't do very much, well, we had been up since 0430, but it was a good day.    Read more

  • Norman GrahamAmsterdam March 2023
    Day 2

    Vincent van Gogh up close!

    March 24, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    When we got into our room we discovered that the hotel was not only near a very busy motorway but that it was also right beneath a flight path for Schiphol Airport. However, although you could occasionally hear an aircraft coming into land, it was not intrusive. We slept well, and we were glad that we had booked breakfast it was a buffet, of the type common in hotels, with plenty of choice. Although Google Maps had shown that there were some cafes nearby, it looked like none of them were open until much later. So, we decided that the best option was to just book breakfast for the remainder of our stay, At 16 euros each it was maybe a bit pricey but there really were no other options, and to be fair there was plenty of choice, and it was all good.

    The staff were very helpful in giving us info about getting in and out of the city via the trams, Westlandgracht tram stop was only about 800m from the hotel, and the number 2 tram only took 15-20 minutes to get into the city centre. Today we were getting off at the Museumplein, a stop just a few minutes walk from a group of museums including the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum.
    We had booked tickets for the Van Gogh Museum for today at 11:15am. If you want to visit the Van Gogh Museum or the Rijksmuseum it is best to book your tickets online in advance directly from the museum's websites.

    I have had an interest in Van Gogh's life and work for many years, he is my favourite preacher and so this visit was a long-time ambition and I was very excited about going. We arrived a little early but the staff were happy for us to go in.

    The Van Gogh museum is an unusual building, quite striking in some ways, it is a hybrid of the original museum built in the 1950's and a new annexe connected in such a way that you don't realise you have moved from one building to another until you look out the window. The main entrance is bright, modern and spacious all of which disguises how busy the museum is, and it was busy! It was also very warm with so many people in the galleries, in fact, in order to see some of the paintings at times you really had to wait until people got out the way.

    However, for the next 2+ hours I was like a kid in a candy store. It was wonderful to see the paintings up close and not behind protective glass. Although it is difficult to explain, there is something very different looking at the original work rather than a photograph in a book or on a website. Some of Van Gogh's greatest works were on display, as well as works by other artist who influenced him or whom he influenced. There was also a nice focus on his background and family life and how his work was preserved, initially by his sister-in-law. The galleries were well designed with the paintings hung a lit in a way that was sympathetic to their composition and relationship with one another.

    Galleries can be very tiring, you move around them very slowly and so after a couple of hours we were both ready for a sit down (there was a lack of seating around the galleries). We went to the museum café, the food all looked great but there's wasn't much that I could eat (food allergies) and to be honest we were still quite full from breakfast, it was really a seat and a coffee we needed. So we settled for coffee and Dutch apple/cinnamon cake, which was fabulous.

    I had a terrific time, it was the fulfilment of a long-held ambition and even Barbara, who is not so keen on art galleries or Van Gogh, really enjoyed it. I even finally learned how to pronounce his name properly (if you're wondering, it's pronounced Van Gogh)

    We got on the tram up to Centraal Station and wondered what to do next, we wandered down to Dam Square, and viewed the Palace and the national monument, but since it was cold and a bit windy we decided to go for a canal boat tour. It was great, it only took about an hour, it was relaxing and informative and you got to see the city from a different perspective. By this time we were both a bit weary and so we headed back to the hotel, for a quiet evening in. I tried to book tickets online for the Rijksmuseum on Saturday, but there were none available until Sunday, so I thought (correctly) that some tickets would be held back for other vendors and decided to go tomorrow to the museum gift shop in the park halfway between the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum to see if they had any. It had been another good day.    Read more

  • Norman GrahamAmsterdam March 2023
    Day 3

    Moments of Transcendence

    March 25, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Having abandoned trying to get tickets for the Rijksmuseum online last night, we left the hotel promptly after breakfast and took the number 2 tram into town, getting off at museumplein. We headed straight for the museum gift shop/ticket office midway between the Van Gogh museum and the Rijksmuseum. After queuing for 5-10 mins we were able to buy two tickets for immediate entry into the museum.

    The museum building is very beautiful from the outside, founded in 1798 the present building dates from the 1880's. The entrance is very bright, modern and spacious, with guide maps available in multiple languages, but not Scots Gaelic i noticed. The museum was absolutely heaving with people, it was easy to see why they recommended booking tickets online. Top tip, don't go overloaded with stuff, a packable waterproof and a small front facing rucksack/bag is ideal.

    Although I really wanted to see the Rembrandts we decided just to follow the floor plan and work our way around it methodically. Art galleries can be disorentating, but we managed to follow the gallery numbers not too badly. Many of the displays and artifacts were a reminder that the Netherlands was once a global power, and that much of its wealth and power were acquired via the same colonial expansionist brutality common among its neighbours. I was struck by the fact that the museum did not shy away from the horrors of the Dutch empire, they laid it bare for all to see, to see and be horrified. I suppose that was the point. Look at who we were they seemed to say, and look at us now, we can be better. Some truths, even the most painful kind, are best not hidden away.

    We eventually reached the Rembrandts, although it was a bit of a struggle to actually see The Night Watch because of the crowd around it. It was also more than 20 feet away behind glass walls. The other Rembrandt's were more accessible, and it was wonderful to be so close to them, to see the genius of his talent in every brushstroke. The Jewish Bride was beautiful, Van Gogh came to see it in the Rijksmuseum and said that he would happily give ten years of his life to go on sitting in front of it for ten days. I especially liked the self-portrait of Rembrandt from late in his life. Looking into his face you get a strong sense of a life behind those eyes, all the joys and sorrows, the eyes tell the story.

    We really enjoyed our wander around the Rijksmuseum, and there was so much to see, but it was tiring and so we headed to the museum cafe....but the queue was so long we abandoned that idea and went outside to one of the street vendors for some chips and coffee, it was a bit pricey but just what we needed.

    We jumped on the tram and went into town without any clear plan of what to do next, the weather began to change, it was getting windy and cold with darkening skies so we didn't want to wander about. I saw the church of St Nicolas that the captain of our canal cruise had mentioned the other day. So we walked across to it. It was the first Roman Catholic Church built in the city when catholics were allowed to worship in public post-Reformation. It was very beautiful inside and everything that church buildings from the period were meant to be, awe-inspiring, with incredible architecture and beautiful decoration, the stations of the cross were especially nice, as was the ceiling of the cupola.

    As we were sitting some members of the choir came out to rehearse for the service later that day. without the aid of any microphones, thanks to the clever architecture their beautiful and harmonious voices filled the building. although it's not my faith tradition or music that I am very familiar with I could have sat and listened to it all afternoon. People kept coming in and sitting quietly listening, and i could understand why, the architecture and the music were doing the same thing that great art does, leading us into a moment of transcendence, a sense that there is something more, something greater, something beyond us but nonetheless connected. In that moment I understood how Van Gogh felt sitting in front of The Jewish Bride.

    We left the church, glad to have come.    Read more

  • Norman GrahamAmsterdam March 2023
    Day 4

    An evening with Anne

    March 26, 2023 in the Netherlands

    Today was our last full day in Amsterdam, we had booked tickets for the Anne Frank House weeks ago, there were only two time slots available throughout March and April, one of which was tonight at 20:15. Babs wasn't feeling great so she decided to have a quiter, restful day in the hotel to make sure she was ok for going to the Anne Frank House tonight. After breakfast I went to the supermarket around the corner and got her some water and snacks, and then I headed off to the tram stop to go into town.

    I got off at Prinsengracht which I thought (correctly) was the best stop for the Anne Frank House and after a quick look at my map, I set off to check the route for tonight so we would know exactly where we were going and how long it would take to get there, it was less than 10 mins walk to the house. Job done I decided to go for what turned out to be quite a long walk around the canals. It confirmed my impression of how busy and crowded the city is. I am convinced that all the photographs of the canals with the bridges and a few bikes leaning against the railings are fake. It is impossible to get a decent photograph without crowds of people in it or risking life and limb from the traffic, especially the bikes which come at you very fast from all directions. Having said that, I did enjoy the walk, the old part of the city is beautiful and fascinating architecturally.

    I made my way back into the centre and got on the tram to Museumplein and went to the museum gift shop for a few souvenirs, and got something to eat from one of the street vendors before making my way back to the hotel.

    Barbara and I were really looking forward to the visit to the Anne Frank House, Barbara has been reading the book. we set off in good time and got a tram almost immediately. We arrived about 30 minutes before our ticket time, surprisingly there was almost no queue, unlike every other time we had passed, though some folks were getting turned away because they had not booked tickets. I think it is one of the most popular tourist sites in the city. At first they said we couldn't go in early but it started to rain a bit and they took pity on us.

    You have to leave your coat and bag at reception and no photographs are allowed once you pass through the barrier into the House - that didn't stop some people who took pictures in every room. We were offered an audio guide, Barbara took one but I declined. I guessed that there would be photographs and quotations from the diary throughout the house and rather than be told what to think or feel I wanted the house and the displays to speak for themselves.

    The house is devoid of furniture apart from the bookcase that hid the entrance to the secret annexe, the walls bare apart from the occasional quotation or photograph of someone involved in the story. The remarkable thing about the Anne Frank story is that it is unremarkable in the sense that an untold number of people went through similar experiences. Yet her voice has been the one to tell that story, all the more moving because we get the sense of the loss of this bright, young woman who had so much potential. Subconsciously we multiply that by six million, and we begin to feel the weight of the loss to humanity.

    The emptiness of the house makes it feel strangely claustrophobic, especially as you go up the very steep narrow wooden staircases. Step by step, room by room you begin to get a sense of what it must have been like for those hiding there. In that empty house worlds collide, the inhumane world of the Nazis, of war and hatred, the very worst that humans can be. Yet in that empty house you also get a sense of the love, the goodness, the kindness, and of the very best that we can be.

    Towards the end of the tour through the museum there is a section that explores the impact of the diary globally. The 21st Century has seen a rise of far right movements and a sharp increase in anti-semitism and that gives the museum a sense of urgency, David Baddiel's recent book Jews Don't Count is a book that we would hope would never need to be written, but it did need to be written. The evil in the hearts of the Nazis and all who enabled remains a powerful force in the world today.

    Anne Frank's story is not just a story from the past, it is a vital warning for the present and for the future. Visiting the Anne Frank House is a very moving experience, not merely because it offers a window into the past but also because it provides a lens through which to view our present, it stirs the conscience reminding us that tyranny and evil cannot be appeased, they must be opposed. The two worlds that collide in the Anne Frank House, are colliding all around us, if we would only open our eyes to see it.    Read more

  • Norman GrahamAmsterdam March 2023
    Day 5

    All good things...

    March 27, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    There is a saying that all good things must come to an end, and today we reached that moment in our trip to Amsterdam. We got an email from Easyjet last night telling us that they expected security at Schiphol to be very busy and advised arriving 3 hours prior to our flight, which was due to depart at 1310. We had decided for peace of mind to get a taxi to the airport, although it was expensive (€45), it was worth it. We had packed most of our stuff the night before, so we got up at a reasonable time, and had another excellent breakfast in the hotel dining room, finished packing and then went downstairs to wait for our taxi which the hotel staff had booked for us. The taxi was on time and the driver asked which airline we were travelling with and was able to tell us which terminal we would be at. It has 3 Terminals with another two due to open next year. The traffic going in to the airport was very busy indeed.

    We couldn't quite work out where we were supposed to go for security but there are plenty of super-helpful staff to ask, which we did. It was very busy but also very efficient, and we were through security from start to finish in about 20 minutes, 15 of which were actually in the queue before security.

    Since we now had plenty of time (thank you Easyjet), we made a beeline for a cafe and sat for a while experiencing that calm that you only get once you are through security and still have about 2 hours before the departure gate closes. we wandered round to the gate and found seats where we could see the departures information board. I went to get some water...the most expensive water I have ever bought, €4 for a 500ml bottle, seemed excessive even for an airport.

    A short time later, the departures board showed our flight 20 mins delayed....then 40 minutes, then the gate changed. Some other passengers heard me tell Barbara that the gate number had changed so, after a few minutes of directing folk to the new gate we settled down once again. Eventually, the Easyjet app notified us that our flight was delayed and that the gate had changed, like about an hour after we had all moved to the new gate. As it turned out the flight was actually 2 hours late in leaving. it seems that for unspecified reasons they had to change aircraft and had pinched one from somewhere else. Good news/bad news was that it had 30 fewer seats and so 30 folk were left behind, so in the end I was sort of glad we had turned up early.

    The flight was uneventful, before we took off the girl that was due to sit next to me asked if I would move so her sister could sit beside her, which I did of course, then we sat on the tarmac for about 20 minutes and then took another 20 minutes to taxi to the runway 2 miles away. It's only about 1 hour flying time so we were hardly up in the air when we began our descent into Edinburgh where our good friends Allan and Frances were waiting to pick up up and take us home.

    Our trip to Amsterdam was short but great, I ticked off a few bucket list items, had a good walk, the hotel was terrific, and every person we met was friendly and helpful, but all good things....until next time.    Read more

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