A 24-day adventure by Trevor and Robyn Read more
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  • Day 10

    Bass Strait

    March 14 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We are at Bridport on the northern coast with the waves from Bass Strait lapping at our doorstep.
    We’ve stayed at three camp sites so far and St Helens was the most modern, Bridport is quite basic, open, and sprawling – probably very busy at holiday times. We are parked under a few trees on open grass.
    This morning, we got going early, but a lot of vans had left before us. Today we were heading up to the Bay of Fires coast. It is famous for its beaches, red rocks, and a super place to freedom camp with lots of beaches with camp slots on the compacted sand. We decided to stick with the commercial sites.
    But first a coffee in St Helens – and it was pretty good too – bought a loaf of sourdough for lunch.
    We went past Binalong Bay which looked amazing with yachts in a calm bay and moody morning light. The road to the Bay of Fires peters out at a place called The Gardens and we parked up with the others. We went to a lookout, and then I went from a wander around the little inlets and rocks. Got some good shots.
    Went back to St Helens and then on the main road west first to Scottsdale and then Bridport. The drive was quite tough – a lot of windy bends, tight corners, climbing, climbing – through native forests and then down into pastureland. We went through a town called Derby which is the mountain bike capital of Tasmania – and the town was buzzing – bikes and bikers everywhere, and lots of biking businesses. Later we came upon their Rail Trail. Not long past Derby we took a slight detour to Legerwood, which is a one horse town that has carved a tribute to its WW1 soldiers out of old tree trunks. The trees were planted after WW1 for the soldiers that they lost and a little while ago the council said they were rotting and dangerous and wanted to remove them. The locals said they were remembrance trees and convinced the Council to allow the community to chainsaw carve figures etc. Sounds crass, but it was clear to us that the locals did not want the memories of their fallen soldiers forgotten.
    We had a coffee at Scottsdale and sat outside in the sun – pretty much the most sun we’d seen all day. And then a short distance to Bridport.
    We went to a nearby IGA and got some washing powder – need to get some fresh clothes back in circulation. While Gran was tending the washing she got talking to a guy who was also doing the washing and he and 3 others had sea kayaked – they start at Port Welshpool in Victoria and island hop across Bass Strait to Bridport - took them 2 weeks, a lot depends on the weather. We looked on the internet and it’s a well-known challenge and notoriously dangerous.
    Thursday we will travel to and trip around the Tamar Valley and Gran has booked accommodation at Beauty Point on the west side of harbour.
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  • Day 10

    The Tamar

    March 14 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    This post will bring us all up to date.
    But before we tell you about today, I have realised that having finished the anti Viral medicine that doesn't mean I am back to normal and Gran who has been suffering the symptoms of Covid for several days now and tests negative everytime, is feeling off colour too - so from a health perspective, today was an average day for us both.
    But we did enjoy getting out.
    We packed up and got on the road to Scotsdale for coffee, oh and to pick up my reading glasses that I left there the previous afternoon!! The coffe was pretty good and we got some more surplies at the supermarket.
    Today we planned to travel around the tamar wine area and stop for a wine and lunch. The place we chose was a family winery called Delamere - they established their winery 40 years ago mainly with Chardonay and 20 years ago added Pinot Noir. It was a simple place, no airs and graces - we chose our food from a pantry that had the basics, crackers, cheeses, olives, salamies etc and after a tasting we chose a Chardonay for Robyn and a Pinot Noir for me. Both wines were superb with strong flavours. It was so pleasant - the winery was full on with harvest, which apparently is early.
    We decided to drive the eastern side of the Tamar wine region, but it was not that special and proceeded back along the motorway across the bridge to Beauty Point.
    This place is right on the river and has a very large yatch house and lots of yatchs parked. There appears to be a lot of industry here too.
    The camp is very tidy and is quiet.
    The camp is on a small penisula jutting out into the river, we went for a stroll along oneside and back down the other - the evening sun was lovely.
    Not sure what or where we will be tomorrow - we have decided to not stray too far from where we are now - two big days at Cradle mountain from Saturday.
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  • Day 11

    Lay Back day

    March 15 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We decided yesterday that we would do stuff around Beauty Point today, and so I went down to the office this morning and asked if we could stay again tonight - all good and "as a returning guest you get a cheaper rate" - a saving of $5!!
    But BREAKING NEWS Robyn officially has Covid - we kind of guessed that as she has felt like she had it 3 days ago - we knew this was inevitable.

    It's been a lovely calm evening here at our campsite - and as I type this I can hear Kookaburra's tell jokes!
    We had a few chores today and we packed up as if we were leaving and off.
    Stopped for a coffee first and there was a politician holding a local meeting - there are elections happening here - so we could hear him entertaining the group.
    Then off to a town 20km away and found a "black waste" dump site, all good, then we went looking for the chemical toilet tablet/packs and must asked at 5 or 6 different places during the day - no luck.
    We eventually decided to find a nice spot for lunch and we went down to a jetty area at a beach called Gravelly Beach. It was warm and sunny and we had wraps - sitting in our beach chairs - as you do.
    After lunch we went for a walk and then another drive.
    We made our way to Green Beach which is on the coast, adjacent to Beauty Point - it had a golf course and lots of lovely holiday homes.
    Then home and a sit in the sun - doing very little.
    Hardly an exciting day, but we needed the rest.
    Tomorrow we drive to Cradle Mountain and spend two nights there - the weather is still holding - we are very lucky.
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  • Day 15

    Leaving Beautiful Point

    March 19 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    I typed this into Word each night so it was relevent to the day. I will only put up photos if the wifi can take it.

    We planned to get going early and we did – Gran told me that she pulled back the blind earlier and the sky was full of stars. So, we did all the breakfast, ablutions and the van stuff and we were out of the camp by 9:30.
    We had booked to see the platypuses at the zoo/aquarium at 10:00. They started with an intro and basic information and learned that they have been on this planet for 160 million years and they are very strange beasts. They are called Monotremes – and there’s a clue in the first part of that word – mono, meaning one. They have one hole and it serves many purposes, including breathing – I will leave you to imagine the other uses – the females are smaller and produce eggs that are reptilian (soft). You can look up the rest on Google.
    We first went into a room with a large glass tank were there was one male and he swam about – the keeper fed it with worms and a yabbi (like a small crayfish) it scurried away for its life. With the food in the tank our platypus became very active.
    We all took photos and some videos, but without a flash the shots were a bit hit and miss.
    Then we went to see the females and they had access to and from smaller tanks that we could get close to.
    Then we went to see the other Monotreme in the Ichida room – this had a sort of small forest and 3 Ichida’s lived there, but only 2 came out. We sat in a circle and the keeper put food in the centre. They were fun but couldn’t sit still and we left.
    On the road we stopped 30 kms down the road at Exeter and had a coffee and had a plan to buy some meat to add to our veges in the fridge for dinners at Cradle Mountain but decided to try further down the line. And we didn’t get any meat so had tuna, rice and veges – pretty good dinner and icecream for afters.
    Headed to Devonport (where the ferry crosses from Victoria) to try and buy some chemical toilet tablets – we did, and they cost $35 to 25 tablets – so we cut our losses and bought the liquid version for $22. Had lunch at a nearby Subway.
    Then on the road south to Cradle Mountain. This was some drive passing through very rural roads, climbing up through tree forests – very narrow road, some tight bends – lots of 25km bends and a few 15km. They might be narrow, but they are all sealed and most without potholes.
    Got to Cradle Mountain before 4 and found our campsite – plenty of space and right near the brand-new kitchen and ablution block – handy. We went down to the Information Centre and got our bus pass for tomorrows hikes (Sunday).
    We are looking ahead at the weather, and we are likely to get some rain on Tuesday – the first rain for us since leaving Hobart.
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  • Day 15

    Day 1 at Cradle Mountain

    March 19 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Morning broke and it was very overcast, and we both felt like that too – I don’t know why but I seemed to have had a relapse and Gran is still fighting her bout of Covid.
    We took our time doing the morning chores and decided we would do what we could and see. We bought some chocolate bars for sustenance and waited for the bus. All parts of the Cradle Mountain in the National Park are controlled and very few vehicles are allowed in. Transport to and from tracks is by bus. It is a very efficient service with buses all the time going down to the Dove Lake (the end of the road) and back to the bus centre at the info offices.
    We had decided to start at a place called Ronny’s Creek and we’d walk to Dove Lake and if we felt ok, do a some of the Dove Lake trail (it goes around the lake parameter 2-3 hr walk).
    Our walk started out on a board walk that sat above marshy, and/or bushy open ground. This was Wombat territory, and this was something Robyn in particular wanted to see. The going was easy, and we could see the Wombat droppings everywhere and, on the boardwalk, too – but not a sighting – so disappointing. Then about half way along our trail the track changed to stones and rocks and began to climb - not what we had expected. The surroundings changed to gums and bush.
    The scenery was fantastic, and the cloud began to break up and we had some warm sunlight. Parts of the trail were similar to our climb up to the Wineglass Bay viewing platform. It was in this area that a number of trails joined and we saw lots of people young and old tramping like us.
    We got to Dove Lake and sat in the sun and had some more water and a chocolate bar. We had a good rest and decided that was enough for the day and lined up for the bus.
    Back at the Info centre we thought we grab a snack for lunch and some coffee – the coffee was okay but the toasted croissants we had were not great.
    Back to our van we rested up which included periods of sitting in the sun or on the bed. We agreed that we hadn’t done the walk that we intended, but that we had enjoyed our experience today – this is an amazing part of Tasmania, well the world really and we had a taste of it. Perhaps tomorrow we can try some other shorter trails if we feel up to it.
    I processed my photos and Gran read.
    The weather is packing up for the next 2 or 3 days – tomorrow is a new day and we see what it brings.
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  • Day 17

    Snake Hill

    March 21 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our plan today was to get in another walk and when we woke it was overcast and there were showers after we had had breakfast, done ablutions and packed up the camper. We were feeling better than yesterday and thought we’d get some coffee and go down to the Interpretation centre where there were also some short walks.
    We sat and watched an excellent video about the park, some history and the present day. Wonderful images and video.
    Then we went to do a short walk that went around an area of typical rainforest bush with fern, pencil pines and some gums. It was called the Enchanted Forest and it sure did look like it.
    By then it had stopped showering, and we had a meeting and agreed that we should do the walk we had planned. Interpretation Centre to Snake Hill – our last chance to see a Wombat.
    So the walk was 100% all along a board walk – just amazing that they would go to so much effort to look after the natural habitat. Lots of Wombat poos, but no live animals.
    The walk did snake around a bit visually, but the key word was hill, and we did some climbing, but the views were spectacular – lots of open ground with tuffty plants (see the images). The sun was mostly out now, and it was pleasant.
    That took just over an hour and at the end when we climbed back up to the road for the ride home, we were presented with over 100 steps I reckon. As we got to the top few steps Robyn said, “Fuck you Wombats” and that was the last word on that.
    I have no photos of the 2nd day in the park – didn’t think I’d need my camera so left it in the van!
    We got our ride back to the main centre, got into our van ate some chocolate and headed west to Strahan.
    The first half of the road was amazing – good wide road sealed and no patches. The last half as good, but good surface, winding road – up and down. We stopped at a nothing town and had lunch it was sunny and warm. We had peanut butter in wraps, jam and cheese – some almonds too.
    We had a bit of excitement at a town called Zeehan – we came to the outskirts of town and there were some road works – we need to turn left here to take the road to Strahan – there were “stop go” people and we went to follow a vehicle going our way when I realised I had to turn hard left around a grader (they are big when you get beside them). One of the workmen came over and proceeded to guide us around the grader. So I was trying to dodge the blade and avoid falling into a drain on my right – when looking out my mirror on the left I could see the van inching towards the graders front wheel. At that point I stopped – the worker helper I had suggested to his mates that they move the grader – but no they decided the bast plan was for us to backup and drive over their freshly graded surface. And all was well.
    We got to Strahan and checked in the temp was 26c then and we change to cooler clothes and rested for a while. We had little food for dinner so decided to visit the supermarket, which believe it or not was a 15 minute walk with a bloody hill at the end of the walk.
    Dinner tonight was lamb chops, mashed potatoes, beans, peas and carrots. Dessert was sliced banana, broken pieces of Arnotts Scotch Fingers, yoghurt and raspberry jam.
    It is very windy now and the van is rocking a bit – tomorrow we do a river cruise – the weather report says fine morning and rain from the afternoon.
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  • Day 17

    Sarah Island and The Gordon River

    March 21 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was our boat cruise. We got up early and made good time walking around to the port to join our cruise. The vessel was a very large catamaran – when we booked this trip we decided to get the best possible views – and that’s what we got, and that included morning tea and lunch.
    We left Port MacQuarrie with a full load of passengers on a clear and sunny morning. The sailing was magical, and the first place of note was a channel near a light house known as Hell’s Gate – the very narrow entrance to the harbour – and it was too, we motored through the gap, turned around and motored back in to the harbour. The water is brackish, half salt water and half fresh from the Gordon River. The whole harbour area is quite shallow and historically has been tricky for shipping. The Hell’s Gate has also been a problem for ships.
    Then we motored past large salmon pontoons on our way to Sarah Island.
    We all disembarked at Sarah Island – this was a prison for secondary prisoners – those sent from Britian who had reoffended or tried to escape. We were lucky to have as our guide on the Island, David – who is part of a historical show in town each night (we wanted to go, but it was sold out). David was an amazing orator, clever, knowledgeable, and told all the historical stories about the island.
    In short Sarah Island was a hell hole and 50 to 100 lashing punishments were the norm – a 100 lasing punishment would take over 1 hour and most would be unconscious or dead by the end.
    The prisoners here became boat builders - the ships were made from the Huon Pine that this area is known for – I think they built over 100 ships – some ships were built at the end of the prisons life when the men worked for a wage.
    The Island was operating as a prison in the 1820’s and before Port Arthur, but ironically Lord Arthur did his apprenticeship here before returning to Hobart and setting up the Port Arthur prison complex.
    For me visiting this site and Port Arthur has been an eye opener and has had an effect too – these were tough times - the British were very cruel, we can to a much lesser degree see what happened in our own little islands. The forced deportation of people; men and women and children just to help set up a new branch of Britian – forcing them to work on creating the infrastructure. And too, the forced removal of the Aboriginal peoples.
    Sorry; should move on!

    David gave us an hour’s history lesson and it was sad, funny, extremely interesting all in one. We are so pleased to have been there and learned.
    Back on board we had lunch and cruised up stream of the Gordon River and most people went outside to enjoy this magnificent place. The cat cruised at a very low speed and sun was shining and we all just relaxed and watched the forest move quietly by.
    This area is part of a very large World Heritage site – it was granted in 2007 and is the only site of 15 in the world that qualifies on all 4 criteria. It ticks the cultural box on account of the Aborigines who have lived here for 40,000 years. I admire the Australians for taking this honour so seriously – they have gone to great lengths to ensure the Heritage Site is retained in its pristine state.
    In the late 1970’s there was a proposal by the Hydro Commission to build a dam on the Gordon River. The Tasmanian State government was unable to stop the proposal from going ahead, but a local group began a protest that became a huge Australian movement that descended on the area. After months of protests it became quite political and the Bob Hawke government on gaining office put a stop to the dam. Cruising in the confines of the river today makes you realise what a save it was.
    The cruise up and down the river was relaxing and I saw quite a number of oldies like us asleep. Then at 2:00 it started to rain, light showers a first and then heavier as we sailed into the front and the showers.
    We got back to the port at around 3. We went for a walk to the “town” to see if there was anywhere to eat, most places were closed – the pub might have been open, but we decided we’d check out the pizza place. Gran phoned in our order – “Meat Lovers” and chips – I picked them up and bought some caramel ice-cream too.
    So that’s today – another fantastic day – health wise we felt good today and feel confident that we are on the mend.
    Gran has booked a campsite at New Norfolk – it will be a long drive, our longest, but it will put us very close to Hobart and we can pick up the car and return the camper.
    I think we have enjoyed the experience of camping – it was something we’d never done – there is not much room in the thing, and we had to learn to be kind to each other, passing in the hall, not standing on Gran’s bare toes – climbing over one and other to get out of bed! – the van things like the power and turning the gas on and off, hooking up the hose and the grey water hose. Booking ahead, the shower rooms (some with a 4-minute auto cutoff). The day we sat in the sun having lunch near Gravelly Beach Gran said “I think I could do this again” – I’m not sure that is still the case, but we have had some great experiences and stories to tell – isn’t that’s what it’s all about?
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  • Day 17

    Some snow

    March 21 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    It rained most of last night and at times VERY heavy – the noise was loud, and we could hear constant dripping – not sure where that was! Gran was concerned that we might get stuck in mud – but that wasn’t a problem.
    After breakfast, ablutions and packing up the van we were off heading for North Norfolk. This would be our longest drive of the trip.
    First, we got a coffee down by the wharf and it was pretty good – we’ve learned to indicate to the barista how much water to put in the small cup.
    The first part of the drive was essentially going backwards for a bit – the route to Queenstown - and it was only 40km and that took us over an hour – the road surface was great, but winding up and up and up, tight corners and bends. We might have stopped in Queenstown to see the huge mine hole, but it was off the road and it was 4 degrees outside!!!
    Then the road became more downhill and some straight periods – near Dermont Bridge (town) we saw fresh snow on some high peaks. We stopped at Dermont Bridge pub – we could have free camped there over night and were pleased that we had decided not to. The pub was constructed out of huge timber beams – it reminded us of a similar restaurant we ate at in the Yosemite in California. We arrived just before the crowd – they had a huge fire going and as people arrived for lunch they would stand and warm up in from of it. Lots of camper vans and motor bikers – all on the road like us.
    From here the road got easier to drive and began reducing elevation. We went through an area of hydro generation – some areas of lakes dammed, constructed of rock and metal walls and huge pipes running down hills.
    And suddenly the green started to turn to drought brown and we were back in the drought-stricken Hobart area. We made our way to North Norfolk, got a coffee just before the café closed at 4 and found our motor camp. This camp is huge, not flash, but it will do for us on our last night (it will be cold). The camp is full and there has to be over 100 vans, trailers, trucks – all sorts.
    Tomorrow we will pick up the car, return the van and drive to the Huon Valley.
    (Robyn) I have been invited to say a few things regarding how I have found our vanning time. To start with the thought of it really didn’t excite me at all and the word excite still isn’t there about it but parts of it I have really enjoyed and yes, I could do it again. I don’t think our having Covid in such confined space added to our tolerance or enjoyment. Luckily, we have had a light dose each. God knows what it would have been like if we’d been really incapacitated. Knew we weren’t too bad as we were tolerating coffee each day. Trev has done an amazing job driving and emptying the loo cannister. He only has one more of that to do. Also, as from tomorrow he can have his own space and I can have mine. Next part of the trip awaits.
    (Trevor) I am pleased that we did this – Tasmania is suited for this form of tourist travel, of that I have no doubt - we saw motor homes everywhere we stopped – the Coles Bay Park had the full sign up as did Strahan last night – this park is too, but we think there are some permanents here. Campers at Bay of Fires, in the carpark at the Platypuses. I have never driven a small truck for more than a few minutes, so learning how it handled, its width took a few days – and on most roads the edge was 12 inches from the inside tyre and the centreline the same – we always pulled over when we had traffic behind us and got a few toots.
    There were new routines to learn – the van, campsite, learning to move around inside and where you had put anything. I particularly love learning or trying new things or solving problems.
    I think we got on pretty well, seeing that we were very confined – still talking!
    Would I do it again? – not sure, not in NZ – we have seen most of the country and doing it in a van doesn’t add anything. If we were avid mountain bikers, I can see that would work.
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  • Day 17

    Huonville

    March 21 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Yesterday we made it out of New Norfolk and got to Cambridge Park in Hobart where we returned the van and picked up a car. I felt a lot better at Crusin when they checked over the van and we owned up to the damaged back bumper area and he said "oh, that's nothing" - so all good!
    We had lunch in Cambridge Park at the Grocer cafe we had lunch on the day we arrived.
    We headed across the bridge and made our way to our cottage in an area called Cradoc, which is along the road from Huonville.
    Robyn did some washing - we had lots from being on the road.
    The property is up a lane off the main road and overlooks some paddocks that are drought dry. We are attanded by a little dog named Zoe and she is supposed to keep the Wallabies away, but take a look at the photo I got in the late afternoon less than 10 metres from our backdoor.
    We went to bed last night with no agreed plans and awoke this morning and I was not feeling 100% - so we decided to go for a drive around the Huon Valley. Robyn chauffered me, and it was a nice change.
    Our cottage owner gave the name of a cafe in town that had the best coffee and that was our first stop, and she wasn't wrong - one of the best we've had here. We drove down the western side of the river down to a town called Geeveston, where I spied a wreckers yard and we stopped and I got some photos for 52 Frames challenge for this week. Then we had lunch at a place called Osteria in Franklin - this was an Italian restuarant run by a young Italian couple who have been in Tasmania for about 5 or 6 years. They use all local produce. The lunch was just superb.
    We drove back to Huonville, bought a few groceries and then headed out the eastern side down as far as Cygnet - which looks like an interesting town which we will revisit.
    Tomorrow we will drive into Hobart and visit the Saturday market. The weather for the next 4 or 5 days is for cooler cloudy days.
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