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  • Kerrie Palamountain

Japan via Kuala Lumpur

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    A birthday on Mount Fuji!

    6 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today was our last day on tour in Japan. We had booked a private guided tour of the Fifth Station at Mount Fuji with Yuki. We were not at all sure we would make it up to the Fifth Station because of inclement weather.
    The Birthday Gods were obviously happy because the weather was ideal for a visit to Mount Fuji.
    We arrived with blue skies and lovely views of Fuji. Our Guide, Yuki, is a 35 year old who also teaches English to school students. He is an avid hiker and climber, has a partner, is an only child, but doesn't want to marry or have children.
    Yuki took us on an easy hike to a mountain cafe where we had a delicious Udon (noodle) meal.
    Along the way, Yuki gave us lots of interesting facts about the mountain, the 43 eruptions in the last 2000 years, the landslides and vegetation which has to grow predominantly in lava rocks and decomposed vegetation.
    After lunch, the clouds engulfed the mountain and it started to rain. How lucky were we?
    We came 'home', started to pack and then walked into Kawaguchiko to a Japanese BBQ restaurant where we enjoyed some seafood and Wagyu beef, cooked by us at the table.
    Birthdays don't get much better than this one. Feeling very blessed!
    So this is it. Tomorrow we get the bus back to Shinjuku Bus Station (2 hrs) and then another bus to Narita Tokyo Airport ready for our flight home the day after tomorrow. We are very happy to return home after our amazing time in the wonderful country.
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  • Cycle Lakes Yamanakako & Kawaguchi

    5 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Aaron, our Guide for today and yesterday, picked us up at 0900 with 3 hybrid bikes onboard. Cycling is on!
    We headed for the lake closest to Mt Fuji, Lake Yamanakako. En route we stopped at a large flower farm.
    The cycling around the lake was very pleasant and not at all demanding (15 km).
    We then went for lunch at an Udon noodle restaurant which was very ordinary.
    We then cycled the beautiful Lake Kawaguchi (approximately 20 km). When we were a quarter the way round the lake, Aaron gave us the option of turning back. We had no intention of turning back! He then upped the pace which suited us fine.
    Apparently he is quite used to people wanting to stop part way through a cycle tour. He said we were fitter than many 20 year olds which was a lovely compliment. If he had taken us up hills the story would have been different!
    We had a delightful day and enjoyed all the information Aaron gave us about the district and also about living in Japan as an expat - fascinating insights.
    We had some left over food from last night, so off to 7 Eleven for more hot chicken for dinner!
    Tomorrow night we will celebrate the last day as tourists in Japan with a meal at a restaurant. Hopefully we will get to the 5th Station of Mount Fuji tomorrow. Since those first photos on arrival here, we haven't sighted Mt Fuji (shrouded in cloud)!
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  • Japan - our thoughts ...

    4 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We are now well and truly on our way home. We have just had 2 bus trips - one from Kawaguchiko to Tokyo (traffic horrendous, e.g. 12 km took 1 hour! We then got the Airport bus to Narita Tobu Hotel which is where we are right now.
    This will be the last Footprint for our Japan adventure. We thought (really to prompt our memories in the future) we would highlight some things that have made this trip so special.
    Once again, thanks so much for allowing us to share our journey with you.
    Here's our take on Japan -
    The Japanese are polite, kind, conforming and honourable people.
    The Japanese babies and toddlers are absolutely gorgeous.
    There are no rubbish bins in Japan and absolutely no litter.
    If there's a complicated way of doing something, the Japanese will do it!
    Japanese love announcements and in lifts, on trains and buses, at train and bus stations there are announcements constantly - often 2 announcements at one time!!
    The public transport system is efficient (to the minute) and fabulous!  The Icoca and Suica cards are a god-send. You load them with Yen and just swipe them on trains and buses. No need to purchase tickets or pay for any transport. The cards can be used at stores as well.
    Matcha is part of the green tea plant and Japanese people love it! Matcha smoothies, ice cream, chocolate, etc.
    Cheers in Japanese is 'campie'!
    Kaideki meal - lots of different small courses.
    Before eating - it is polite to say "itadaki masu" which means you are grateful for the food provided.
    Food in Japan is much less expensive than in Australia (especially restaurant meals).
    Toilets in Japan - talk about Hi-Tech! Some lift their lid as you enter the toilet, most flush automatically, there are inbuilt bidets (we love them!), there is a panel of options that you choose to operate for flushing, various bidet functions, etc! Amazing!
    We have been very surprised by the Japanese terrain. 70% of Japan is uninhabitable because of very steep hills and high mountains.
    So it's sayonara from your Pals, Kerrie & Roger xx
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  • Tour of Fujiyoshida

    4 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our scheduled bike tour became a car tour because of drizzling rain. Our Guide, Aaron, is an American married to a Japanese woman. They run Fuji Bike Tours and they are about to build an Art / Craft shop in the district.
    First Aaron took us to the Shinto Shrine to Mount Fuji. We are becoming very proficient at Shinto Cleansing and we will be returning to Australia as pure, unadulterated souls! To cleanse one self you go through a ritual of washing both hands and then your face (it's quite complicated and I, Kerrie, will need to demonstrate in person!) Don't ask Roger, he refuses to participate! To pray, first you throw some money into a tray to alert the Gods you are present, then you bow twice, clap twice and then pray. You then bow once again.
    This Shrine to Mount Fuji is particularly picturesque with a mountain in the background and lots of cypress trees.
    Aaron took us all around the Fujiyoshida district which has a population of 60,000 people. Sadly, 30% of the houses are abandoned because young people who have inherited the properties don't want to live in the country and don't want to pay the costs associated with owning the property, so they just walk away.
    We visited a village called Oshino where there are houses with thatched roofs that need repairing. There are only 45 people in Japan who can replace thatched roofs apparently.
    Aaron took us to the village of Nenba which was rebuilt in the early 2000's following a landslide where 92 people lost their lives. The village is now a tourist attraction with lots of artisan shops.
    We enjoyed a curry lunch before being dropped off at our accommodation mid afternoon. Once again we created a dinner thanks to 7 Eleven!
    Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to ride around the picturesque lakes.
    (We received some photos from our Small Group Tokyo Bike Tour so I'll add some to the photo collection.)
    PS The weather is cool and we are now wearing, for the first time, the jackets we've been dragging around Japan!
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  • Tokyo to Kawaguchico (Mount Fuji)

    3 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we embarked on the final leg of our time in Japan - Kawaguchico, the township at the base of Mt Fuji.
    But first, the journey to get here ... maybe get yourselves a coffee (or something a bit more nerve soothing first)!
    We knew that today was going to possibly be not only the last, but the biggest challenge of our trip ... and we were not wrong!!
    We left our Hotel with an extra 1.25 hrs up our sleeves, just in case things went haywire getting to our ultimate destination - our bus to Kawaguchico from Shinjuku Tokyo Railway Station.
    All went swimmingly until we disembarked from the train at Shinjuku Station (the busiest station in the world). We were underground, of course, and had no GPS to direct us to the correct exit to the bus station. Let's paint the Shinjuku Station picture here - there are many levels underground and the corridors go in all directions for hundreds of metres. What we found was that the signage for an exit was OK for a while, but then there was nothing. We think that they probably think that if they get you on a certain path you can figure out the rest yourselves! Wrong!
    Long story short, we were like rabbits in a burrow, scurrying from one exit to another! Eventually we surfaced (dragging a case with wheels with a back pack and shoulder bag) and followed Google Maps to the Bus Station, but even that was difficult!
    On the bus we climbed and almost collapsed into our seats with exhaustion at 1125 hrs!
    Our rental house on Kawaguchico is maybe 500 metres from the bus station. It is a house with 4 bedrooms. No living area, unless you want to sit on your legs on a tatami mat!
    We walked maybe 1.5 km to a supermarket, however, everything is labelled in Japanese. I was looking at buying something to nibble and was about to drop a packet of yummy looking things into our shopping basket when I realized it was dog treats! Roger said, after what he's eaten in the last month in Japan, he would probably have happily munched on the dog food! We ended up buying a salad and some hot food from the 7 Eleven Convenience Store for our dinner. That's a story in itself! We bought a white wine from Chile for $6 and a red from France for $10 so happily ate our meal and drank our wine at the house rather than eating out.
    We were booked to do 2 days of guided bike riding tomorrow and the next day, but the forecast is for rain. The tour operator is going to take us on a 6 hour guided tour by car instead. The next day should be good for cycling. Our day ended so happily with a surprise call from Sue & Duncan!
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  • Tokyo Cycle Tour

    2 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    An early start this morning because we needed to be approximately 8 train stops away from our nearest Ginza station to join a bike tour of Tokyo, starting at 0900.
    We disembarked the Marunouchi Line Train OK but found ourselves underground with no idea how to exit the subway! We had to find the correct exit because we could find ourselves a long way from our meeting point otherwise! We arrived right on time, but slightly stressed!
    There were 6 in our group with 2 Guides.
    Biking in Japan is very interesting and challenging. You ride mainly on the footpath (along with many pedestrians). You weave around people and often ride on the wrong side of the road to get to your destination. It is impolite to use your bell so you cannot warn people that you are about to whiz past them! It all seems to work though!
    We visited another Shrine built in honour of a previous Emperor and the Buddhist Dojo Temple.
    We also visited the huge cemetery which has the tombs of many Japanese Families. The most interesting was the Memorial to the dog Hachico, who waited every day for 10 years for his master to come home from work (he died at work). There is a film called 'Hachi' based on this true story. Hachico's remains and Monument are next to his Master's Tomb. Very touching story and one that captured the hearts of the Japanese people .
    The best part of the tour was the view from Tokyo's Kabukicho Tower, where we were able to get a bird's eye view of this incredible city.
    We travel by train and bus tomorrow to Kawaguchi (near Mount Fuji) for the last phase of our Japanese Adventure!
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  • Tokyo & Food Tour

    1 Oktober, Jepun ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    This morning we had breakfast with a few of the OKU hiking group before moving to a much less expensive hotel about 350 metres away. We arrived far too early to check in, so were able to launder heaps of our hiking clothes and book our bus tickets to Kawaguchi on Friday, 3/10/25. We settled into our room before check in time (we think the Reception staff felt sorry for us) and had some down time just repacking our bags and preparing for our Tokyo tours.
    We were booked for a Tokyo Food Tour at 6 pm and, once again, had to negotiate the Tokyo Subway train system to reach the meeting point for the tour. We had to get off at the busiest train station in the world (fact) - Shinjuku Tokyo. We eventually found the Guide for the tour and the rest of the group (12).. We were given a wide variety of sumptuous food (with the exception of the spam in the Okinawan Salad!) - see the photos.
    Being in Tokyo at night is fabulous! Such a buzz! The education by the Guide was fascinating. For example, our Guide, Will, spoke of the Yakuza (Japanese Marfia) who, even today, rule by fear. If someone is dishonourable to a Marfia boss, the expectation is that the person will chop off a finger themselves and present it to the boss (with a financial payment often as well).
    We got the train back to Ginza Station and our Hotel without any problems around 10.30 pm and had to quickly prepare for our Tokyo Bike ride at 0900 in the morning.
    We have gone from one extreme to another in Japan - from the very traditional Japanese rural villages to one of the biggest cities in the world. It's all just incredible!
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  • Matsumoto to Tokyo

    30 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We had our final Ryokan breakfast in the 150 year old building and were then farewelled by the staff and owner.
    We got a bus back to Matsumoto and the bus was involved in a minor accident. This is the first vehicle accident I (Kerrie) has even been in! We were all jolted forward as the young bus driver slammed on his breaks. No injuries thankfully.
    We visited Matsumoto Castle and climbed the terrifyingly steep stairs to the 6th floor (and down again with back packs on!)
    We then got the Express Train to Tokyo which took 2 hours. Natsuko was concerned about arriving in Tokyo and transferring to a local train to reach our hotel. The central station in Tokyo has 3.5 million commuters per day! We got onto the local subway train without any hassles which Nat was very happy about!
    We dressed for dinner at a Tempura Restaurant nearby and walked through the amazing city of Tokyo to get there.
    It was Francie's birthday, so we sang happy birthday and Nat presented her with a gift from OKU (tour organiser).
    Natsuko then presented the group with a momento of the trip before we gave her a well earned envelope of tips. She deserved every Yen! By far the best Tour Guide we have ever had.
    Then the heartfelt farewells to each other - we all know that this is just a once off special time in our lives, but, oh boy, it's hard to say goodbye 🫂.
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  • Kiso Fukushima to Matsumoto

    29 September, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The Ryokan we stayed at overnight produced a delicious breakfast. We had our own cookers again and a number of other dishes.
    We were ready to roll at 0815 and the Ryokan shuttle bus returned us to the Yabuhara Station where we rode in a local train to the beginning of the Nakasendo Toriitoge Pass Hiking Trail. The weather was perfect - lower temperatures and much less humidity, just perfect for hiking the 9 km Pass. The first 3 km was up a mountain and the remaining 6 km was a delightful descent into the Historic Post Town of Narai-Juku.
    We were given 2 hours to explore this ancient area. We enjoyed another Okinomiyaki at a local restaurant before gathering again for another 56 minute train trip to Matsumoto. We then got a local bus to our final Ryokan, maybe 20 minutes from the city. Once again we were treated to a fabulous traditional Japanese dinner with many courses!
    We are thrilled to have a low bed rather than a futon tonight. We showered after dinner and relaxed in a private onsen. These onsens (deep wooden baths) are amazing. I (Kerrie) want one!!
    Sadly we are fast coming to the end of this fabulous trip. The group has worked well together and our Guide, Natsuko, is the best Guide you could ever wish for. Her organisational skills are amazing. We all just follow along like puppy dogs and wait for her to tell us what to do, where to stand, when to move, when to go to the toilet, etc (get the idea?). Oh dear, the day after tomorrow this trip concludes and we are all dreading having to look after ourselves again!!
    Another superb day, with the last day of the trip tomorrow when we visit Matsumoto Castle before travelling to our final destination, Tokyo.
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  • Tsumango to Kiso Fukushima

    28 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was going to be the big 18 km hike, however only 4 chose to accept the challenge. The remaining 8 did a relatively short walk from Tsumago to the village over the hill to Nagisio where we caught the train for a 45 min ride to Keso-Fukushima.
    Before that, we explored Tsumago and the Museum where we were given a talk on traditional Japanese houses.
    The 8 renegades that didn't do the big hike had a lovely day exploring Keso-Fukushima. We had a delicious lunch at a restaurant before meeting up with the A Group who arrived at Nagisio by train (after their hike!)
    We were then driven to our Ryokan (much more up-market) where we were served a Japanese degustation of 15 dishes! This was a fabulous meal but far too much food!
    Tomorrow we do a 9 km hike through mountains, however, it will be much cooler and less humidity. We are heading for Tokyo and the trek will finish in 2 days time. A really great day today!
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  • Magome-Juku to Otsumago Pass

    27 September, Jepun ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We left our hotel in Kyoto with our back packs with everything we require for the next 2 days and nights. Maybe 8 kgms on our backs. We took 2 subways trains, a Shinkansen train and an overcrowded bus up into the mountains where we would begin the Nakasendo trail.
    We ate lunch at Magome, a very touristy town, before we began the first part of the Nakasendo trail called the Magome to Otsumago Pass. The first 2 km were uphill and then the remaining 5 km was a beautiful hike downhill through the forest and along a waterway and a number of waterfalls. The temp and humidity in the mountains was lower and hiking was much more comfortable.
    We arrived at our traditional Japanese Ryokan accommodation at 4.30. We have futons on the tatami mats on the floor and there is the sound of rushing water outside our room.
    We all showered and soaked for a few minutes in a deep bath before dressing in our Yakata and gathering for our Japanese dinner which was, once again, delicious.
    We are in the heart of traditional rural Japan and it is so very special to be able to experience this cultural lifestyle.
    Half of the group have opted not to do the 18 km hike with 735 meter elevation tomorrow. We are in that group! We will still be hiking but it will be manageable and enjoyable!
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  • Yamanobe no Michi Hiking Course

    26 September, Jepun ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Today we met Nat, our Guide @ 0815. We are having our luggage forwarded on and for the next 2 days & nights we have to carry whatever we need.
    Our goal for today was to visit the ancient city of Nara (Japan's first capital, before Kyoto and Tokyo).
    We took 2 local trains and a Shinkansen to Nara and then began the 16 km Yamanobe no Michi Hiking Course.
    Near Nara is the Tenrikyo Church Headquarters. A woman started this relatively new religion in the early 1990's. The Church has a following of 2.1 million.
    The next shrine along the path was the Isonokami Jingu Shrine where Roosters are considered holy.
    The initial route was uphill, but fairly quickly settled into a nice undulating path with quite a bit of shade. Still, it was hot and humid! We were drenched with perspiration and just couldn't get enough fluids in. For a while, after lunch, I (Kerrie) became unstuck, feeling faint, etc. We got some cold drinks from one of the many drink vending machines and life improved. The hiking was fine but the heat and humidity we didn't train for!
    We arrived back at the hotel around 5.30 and Roger took washing to the laundromat before we headed off to find some dinner. Ended up at a very small restaurant not far from the hotel where we joined some of the walking group for a fun dinner.
    Tomorrow we begin, in earnest, the Nakasendo Way & Kiso Valley Hike. We just hope it cools down a lot!!
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  • Mount Kurama

    25 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This morning the OKU hiking group took the train to the end of the Kurama line in the mountains. We were told that this would be a gentle 4 km walk. Well, yes, it was gentle, up hill for 2 km! Hundreds of steps. More shrines and temples, but glorious mountain landscapes and lush green trees, about to change colour.
    The group are all experienced walkers and Nat, our Guide, complimented the group on their stamina (she included me, however, I was puffing up the rear, a bath of perspiration!). Fortunately my knee seemed to improve with the hike, even with all the steps up and down.
    We visited the Nishiki Markets on our way back to the hotel. All sorts of food available there and lots of other things as well.
    We had a couple from Woolongong (Kristina & Reiner) for happy hour before we went to a small Japanese Restaurant where we had a delicious meal of beef ramen.
    Tomorrow is a 16 km hike to Nara (the original capital of Japan even before Kyoto). Thank you for your positive vibes re my pesky knee - it helped heaps!
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  • Arasuyama & Welcome Dinner for OKU Hike

    24 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This morning we found a laundromat and visited, briefly, Kyoto's Imperial gardens (while the washing was being done). A huge area 1300 x 700 metres but we only saw a small section.
    We then got the subway into Kyoto Station and tried to find the Sky Tourist Bus. For one day it would have cost us $AUD46 each. Instead, we got the public bus to Arasuyama where the Bamboo Forest is. Approximately $AUD2.50 each way and the bus trip took an hour with 27 stops, but way cheaper than the tourist bus!
    There were hoards of tourists at Arasuyama and the Bamboo Forest, but it was a pleasant outing.
    Tonight we have a Welcome Dinner for the OKU Japan Nakasendo & Kiso Valley Hike. This is what we have been training for and looking forward to for a year now. Sadly one of my knees (Kerrie's) flared up after the 5 day bike trip, so it will be interesting to see if I can complete the hike.
    There are a couple of photos of Japanese taxis in this Footprint. Roger can explain more ...
    ALERT: Skip this if you have no interest in cars!
    I was fascinated to see so many old style Toyota Crown taxis throughout Japan. As an ex Crown owner I had to investigate. Toyota made special vehicles, as taxis, with longer wheelbase and larger boots, etc. This was not based on the normal Crown but used mechanical bits from a model like the Camry. Apparently, they used the Crown body design as it was very long lasting. In deference to handicapped people, the government encouraged manufacturers to produce designs for wheelchairs etc. so Toyota ceased production of the Crown taxis in 2018.
    However, taxi drivers seem to prefer the Crowns so they still out-number the newer design.
    Post Welcome Dinner note - an older group than we expected (12 walkers and the Guide, Nat). We were taken to a traditional Japanese restaurant and, once again, enjoyed delicious and varied food. Tomorrow we start walking, but return to the hotel for the next 2 nights. We then head off on the Nakasendo trail, heading for Tokyo.
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  • Kyoto's Gion Geisha Community

    23 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We visited the Gion District again today on our Cycle Tour and learnt more about this fascinating 'Geisha' community. We thought it was worth devoting a whole Footprint to the topic! There are approximately 1000 Geishas in Japan. In Kyoto there are 120 trained Geishas, however, they are called 'Geiko's'.
    To train to be a Geiko, a girl, if she meets the strict criteria, can be accepted into a lodging house by the owner who is called 'Okiya' (mother Geiko and owner of the lodging). The girl becomes a trainee, called a 'Maiko'. She can be accepted as a Maiko at 15 years old. She trains for approximately 5 years. During this time she works from 0600 until 0100 (5 hours sleep). She pays no rent during her training years, but does repay her training costs if and when she qualifies as a Geiko. There are 50 Maikos in Kyoto. The 3 requirements to be accepted as a Maiko are - they must speak Japanese, have a social personality and during their 5 year training they cannot have any social media & no boyfriend's! Maikos have their hair done once a week by one of the 5 trained hairdressers in Kyoto. The Maikos then have to sleep with their necks on a firm support so they can keep their elaborate hair do's intact!
    Geiko's can have boyfriend's, phones, own their own homes, etc. They earn anywhere between 3 - 10,000 USD per month. So why train for 5 years to be a Geiko? Well they can earn huge salaries if they are in demand by extremely wealthy business men. For example, to have a top Geiko entertain you in a top tea house in Kyoto would set you back by $10,000 USD for 2 hours! For very wealthy business men, to be able to bring prospective business clients to a tea house with a Geiko to entertain is hugely beneficial!
    Geiko's have celebrity status in Japan and when one appears on the street, everyone stops and stares at this perfectly presented and deported woman. We were fortunate to see a Maiko enter her lodging 'Okiya' today.
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  • Cycle Kyoto Bike Tour

    23 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    An early start today to get into the centre of Kyoto for our full day Cycle Tour with 'Cycle Kyoto'. Juan was our 66 year old Guide. He is an American who has lived in Japan for 26 years. He married his Japanese wife 8 years ago. The only other cyclist was Christine, a NZ born woman who has lived in the USA since the late 1980's. We missed Sue & Duncan not being with us today, knowing they would have loved this tour.
    The bikes were relatively new, however, I (Kerrie) had to get used to riding a bike with a high bar, which meant cocking my leg over the bar! Never did quite get the hang of that, but no accidents, so all was good!
    We rode 30 km all around Kyoto, visiting shrines and temples and weaving around the back streets of Kyoto. We enjoyed lunch at a sushi & noodle restaurant. We had to either grab food from the sushi train or order from our phone menu. We are learning all sorts of new tricks in Japan! The food was delicious, but it was a PH in Japan today so the place was packed with families (and noisy!)
    So let us bore you with some Shrines & Temples information! There are 2400 Shrines & Temples in Kyoto (and we thought 900 cathedrals in Rome was impressive!)
    Kyoto was the centre of culture in Japan when it was founded 1000 years ago. Kyoto lost it's status as the Capital of Japan in 1869 to Tokyo.
    The first place we visited was the Fushimi Inardi Shinto Shrine. Inardi is the God of Agriculture - a very important God, especially when rice was the currency. This is the most visited place in Japan. In January this year 3 million people came to the Shrine to donate money and pray for their prosperity. We are amazed at how readily Japanese part with their money at Temples and Shrines!
    We then visited the Yofuku 13th century Zen Monestry, Imperial Palace Gardens, the Golden Pavilion (World Heritage Site), Kitano Tenmangu Shintu Shrine and finally the Nishi Hongangi Buddhist Temple. This Temple is 7 stories high and is made of cypress and cedar only - no nails or metal.
    We returned to the hotel and called into a Convenience Store next to the hotel for some wine and nibbles for dinner. Another very enjoyable day but we won't be upset if we don't see another Shrine or Temple this trip!
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  • Hiroshima to Kyoto

    22 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today was a travelling day - from Hiroshima to Kyoto.
    We had a very enjoyable Shinkansen ride for almost 2 hours arriving at Kyoto at 1143 (exactly the scheduled time). The Japanese rail system is unbelievably efficient. We then had to transfer to a local line to reach our hotel.
    Our hotel is just across the road from the local train station. We were able to check in early - the hotel is lovely and, best of all, we are here for 5 nights! Bliss!
    We indulged in a restaurant lunch at the hotel, knowing we wouldn't have time to eat tonight. It was then nap time before the evening's entertainment, which was a 2 hour tour of the Gion Geisha District. This time we got a bus to the start of the tour. There are only 120 Geishas in Kyoto and 50 in training. We were fortunate to see 2 Geishas on our walk (a rare occurrence apparently). The tour guide gave us fascinating education on the life of Geishas and their social structure.
    Another bus ride back to our hotel to prepare for an early start tomorrow for our full day bike tour of Kyoto.
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  • Island of Miyajima

    21 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A slower start to our day again! We decided to go to Miyajima - a World Heritage Island just off the coast of Hiroshima. To get there we took a local train from Hiroshima Station with the idea of getting off at a station near the ferry which takes you to Miyajima Island. Hundreds of other people had the same idea! We disembarked from the train at the station we thought was the correct one, but everyone else stayed on board! Back on the next train and we eventually joined thousands (and we mean thousands) of tourists going to Miyajima by ferry! This is not our sort of thing we would normally choose to participate in, as many of you would know! Anyway, we played the tourist game and ended up on Mount Misen, after a ropeway carriage & gondola ride to the top of the mountain. The views were spectacular.
    We reversed our trip by ferry & train back to Hiroshima and we are now washing clothes & enjoying a wine before going to a local Okonomiyaki restaurant for dinner. The Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima are different from Osaka they say!
    Tomorrow we take another Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Kyoto for the next part of our Japanese Adventure!
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  • Hiroshima - a day of artistic surprises!

    20 September, Jepun ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    What started out to be an ordinary sort of day turned out to be the best day and night we could have hoped for.
    We decided to use the Hop on Hop Off Bus to take us to art venues. The first stop was the Hiroshima Perfectural Art Museum where the first day of the Unraveling the Mysteries of Ancient Egypt Exhibition was being held. Our friends, the Pascoes, have only just returned home from Egypt, so we thought we would get a little taste of what they have experienced. It was magnificent.
    We then visited the Japanese Shukkeien Garden, just outside the Perfectural Art Museum - right in the centre of Hiroshima.
    On the bus again and the next stop was the Hiroshima Museum of Art. This huge marble building features the works of a local artist by the name of Kamoi Rei, however, to our surprise there are works by the greats - Picasso, Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet, to name a few. We had a fabulous day, arriving back at the hotel around 6 pm.
    We hear a lot of jazz playing in Japan in all sorts of places. We do know that Japan is a jazz loving nation, so we decided to find some live jazz. We got a taxi to a basement jazz venue called 'Jazz Club Bird' not knowing what we were going to hear. To our absolute delight we were treated to 2 hours of jazz standards by a vocalist, pianist, guitarist & base player. It was amazing. Sadly these musicians played to an audience of about 10 people, but they seemed to appreciate having Aussies in the audience. We went to be happy little vegemites!
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  • Omishima to Hiroshima

    19 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We were up early to enable us to get the bus from Omishima at 0810 to Fukuyama. We had breakfast at WAKKA and the staff drove us to the bus station. We had coffee at the Railway Station before boarding the Shinkansen at 1028 for Hiroshima (30 min journey).
    We left our luggage at our Hotel, very near the railway station and (eventually!!) found the Hop on Hop off bus. We did the whole loop and then rode onto the Atomic Bomb Dome - one of the few structures that remained partially intact after the bomb.
    We then visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - an absolutely huge building that shows, quite chillingly, the effects on Hiroshima of the Atomic Bomb. The short term and long term effects on the community have been devastating.
    We have discovered there isn't a huge amount to see in Hiroshima, so we may even go to an art gallery and the botanical gardens tomorrow!
    My apologies if you received this Footprint obviously incomplete - I uploaded rather than saving it as a draft!
    Tonight we are going down to the Lawson Convenience Store for a prepared dinner and a bottle of red which we will enjoy in our room!
    Baca lagi

  • Imibari back to Omishima (end of bike to

    18 September, Jepun ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    It rained overnight and this morning we had perfect conditions for riding. Ryu met us at 0900 and we said goodbye to Imibari (island of Shikoku).
    Imibari is one end of the Shimanami Kaido bike track so we had to have the obligatory photo to mark this occasion!
    We crossed a huge suspension bridge (biggest in the world) onto the island of Oshima, which is famous for granite mining (reminds us of home!) On the other side of Oshima we saw the Murakami pirate strongholds during the 1400 - 1600's. Have a listen to Ryu's description of this area - he explains it so well!
    Over the bridge onto Hakatajima Island. We had another delightful lunch at a cafe booked by Ryu. He then took us to a family run winery at Ominishima and the famous Oyamazumi Shrine built in 600 AD. This is a Shintu Shrine where Samurai warriors came prior to wars to seek help from their Gods and after wars to give thanks if they were successful.
    Back to WAKKA having had a marvellous 5 days of cycling. How good was it? Well, I (Kerrie) rarely cry, however, when we said goodbye to Ryu, I cried! Roger felt the same!
    We were then treated to a Japanese BBQ cooked just outside our accommodation. It was fabulous, something we will not forget.
    Tomorrow we go by bus to Fukushima and then by Shinkansen to Hiroshima. The Japanese Adventure continues!
    Baca lagi

  • Omishima to Imabari

    17 September, Jepun ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    The itinerary for today was pretty chaotic and unclesr. In fact, we had no idea what we were going to be doing. Up until now we were singing the praises of Claudio (WAKKA tour organiser). We decided to go with the flow and see what transpired. We had breakfast at WAKKA on Omishima before being transported by cycle taxi to Munakata Port, approximately 30 mins away. We were instructed to take the Ferry to Okamura where we would meet our Guide for the day, Tom.
    We have just loved being guided on these rides, even though they are hellishingly expensive ($AUD600/day) We don't regret one cent. The guides have value added to our experience enormously. We have loved getting to know these people too. Tom is probably early to mid 40's, mother Japanese and father English. He grew up in the UK. He is married to a Japanese woman and they have a 4 year old son. They decided to live in Mitarai and they have an online tea distribution business, a weekend tea rooms and Tom is a professional photographer. He also does cycling tours! They have lived in Mitarai for 10 years.
    There are only 150 residents in Mitarai and 70% are over 75!
    It is so sad to see so many of these properties deserted. The Government is doing all it can to revitalise these historic buildings. For example, the Government will pay 80% of the costs of external renovations if the reno's take the property back to its original condition.
    We visited 3 of the 4 villages of Osakishimojima Island - Orcho, Kubi, Mitarai & Okitomo (didn't visit this last village). Orcho has terraced oranges trees and prior to the war supplied 40% of Tokyo's oranges. Citrus is big in this area. Older Japanese, well into their 80's still manage the steeply terraced hills growing citrus .
    The community spirit in these villages is to be commended. We had lunch at one community initiative at Kubi called Mamena. The vision is to create a community without the need for nursing homes. They raise money for the community centre via their cafe. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of either pork or seafood, always with a bowl of soup and a bowl of rice.
    After lunch we visited the fishing village ofToyohama on the Island of Toyoshima.
    We took the ferry to Omishima where we are staying tonight. We went to a convenience store near the hotel and got some sushi, a custard each and some bananas which we are back at the hotel (with their complimentary wine). Cost $16 for our dinner! We think we might do this more often!
    Tomorrow Ryu becomes our guide again for our last day of cycling these stunning islands.
    Baca lagi

  • Island of Ikuchi to island of Omishima

    16 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Our Japanese breakfast was waiting for us at 8 am this morning. Some Hihiki (seaweed), fish, an egg roll, soup, rice and a variety of pickles, etc.
    Ryu (our Guide) arrived at 0900 and off we rode in already hot and humid conditions. It only cools very slightly overnight. We are definitely becoming accustomed to the weather and our cool neckbands are a godsend.
    Today we left the Shimanami Kaido Cycle Path and rode another cycle path called the Yumeshima Cycle path. We basically island hopped, rode on ferries and crossed huge suspension bridges. To be honest, Roger and I had little idea where we were heading! We just followed Ryu! We had another delicious meal of sashimi for lunch and took some time off the bikes to have a swim - it was bliss!
    These islands we are exploring are part of the Seto Inland sea. There are approximately 730 islands with 4 main islands (Iwagi, Ikina, Sa & Yuge) collectively known as Kamijima town. 150 of the 730 islands are inhabited. It is a beautiful part of the world.
    Ryu took us to a little bakery where Maki (mother of 3), bakes bagels and other breads. The bakery is part of her 110 year old home. We had a drink and some biscuits (bagels always sell out) before the last 2 hours of riding.
    We arrived at our WAKKA accommodation at sunset. A very full but marvellous day.
    Baca lagi

  • Ryokan Suminoe - Ikuchi Island

    15 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We booked dinner for 6.30 pm. We were surprised to find that we were the only dinner guests in the dining room. Apparently there was another couple dining also, but they were in a separate room.
    We had our first drink of Sake. Roger liked it more than I did.
    Our first course consisted of eggplant stewed in wine, sweet potato, figs with sesame dressing and boiled taro.
    Second course was Chawanmushi with mullet roe (an egg custard with fish)
    Third course was sashimi consisting of sea bream, amberjack, striped jack & red spotted grouper. Delicious!!
    Fourth course was Steamed Tiger Fish in Sake.
    Fifth course was Conger eel and Octopus in Vinegar.
    Sixth course was soup and rice.
    Seventh course was Matcha icecream and green tea!
    Our first experience of traditional Japanese culture!
    Baca lagi

  • Omonichi to Ikuchi Island

    15 September, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Our new Guide, Ryu (pronounced Leyu), met us this morning at 10 am.
    Ryu came to Japan in May, 2024. He was born in England to an English father and Japanese mother. Although he attended Japanese school in England, he has really only learnt Japanese in the last 18 months and speaks fluently now. He is about 25. He lives on Yuge island in a government apartment which costs 80 pounds per month (around $160 AUD!
    We left Omonichi and got the ferry to Mukaishima island (we were there yesterday). We rode more of this island today before crossing one of the 4 suspension bridges that join these islands. The weather was, again, hot and humid. Today we used neck coolers and found them to help a lot. We get the impression from the Guides that they are surprised we are doing this bike tour at this time of the year!
    Ryu was a much more laid back guide who didn't push us along as much as Alex did yesterday. Today we were riding along shaded bike paths for a lot of the time and down traditional Japanese back streets.
    Ryu chose a delightful restaurant for lunch. He gave us lots of time to cool down and rehydrate and enjoy delicious food. Roger had curry and I had pasta with eggplant.
    We stopped at a shop that specialises in Daifuku. They had only one left so we were each able to have a taste of this delicacy. It is mochi on the outside made from sticky rice & sweet bean paste which encases seasonal fruits.
    A little further on and we stopped for gelati. Our accommodation tonight is at our very first Japanese Ryokan on the island of Ikuchi.
    This has been an experience we will never forget. Shoes remain at the entrance of the Ryokan and you wear slippers, but not on the tatami mats in the bedrooms. There are also special slip on shoes just for the toilet. To shower, you go to a communal shower and sit on a low stool. You can then go into the warm communal bath if you choose to - we didn't, it was too hot! We were given a Yukata to wear after our shower and to dinner. The dinner deserves it's own Footprint!
    So, we really feel as if we are experiencing the real Japan now and it is absolutely fascinating!
    Baca lagi