• Paul Docherty
Jan – Mar 2023

Interrail Trip Europe 2023

A 46-day adventure by Paul Read more
  • Kemi to Boden

    February 21, 2023 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ -14 °C

    An interesting day connecting a bit of the trip between Finland and Sweden where trains are very thin on the ground.

    We left Kemi and caught a bus to the border town of Tornio (FIN) -Haparanda (SWE). The bus terminates just over the border at a bus station which, unusually on the continent, is 1.5k away from the train station. So we did the walk, only to find that the trains here were temporarily replaced with a bus service. Anyway, we waited in the historic Haparanda station-cum-museum (on a famous rail line connecting Norway with Russia) for the bus.

    The bus took us over snowy roads to Boden. We killed a bit of time there and headed to the station to wait for the sleeper train to Stockholm. This originated in Narvik up on the Norwegian coast and I think problems up there delayed the train. So, getting sleepy waiting for the sleeper train…
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  • Boden to Stockholm

    February 22, 2023 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    The night train eventually came having been delayed at the start of its journey in Norway. Great to get into our compartment and experience the travelling magic of sleeper trains again. You wonder if you’ll ever sleep with the train hooter, background rail noise and the train movement. Weirdly, it seems to be a perfect recipe for sleep.

    The delayed arrival into Stockholm meant time for a lie in, a shower in the little shower room down the corridor and a leisurely breakfast.

    We had a look around parts of Stockholm starting with the old narrow streets and alleyways around Ganla Stan. The Nobel Prize Museum was on our to do list and after that, some ‘Fika’ in the Nationalmuseum. We wandered more, randomly bumping into a Changing of the Guard ceremony at the Royal Palace. Soon it was time for Fika 2 and we met with Sam (the son of Caroline’s friend, Steph) and his partner Clara, who live here, in a waterfront bakery.
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  • Stockholm

    February 23, 2023 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    The Vasa was a Swedish warship which sank in 1628 on its first voyage. It lay less than 1km from the bank and was raised in 1961. So how do you make a whole museum out of the raised ship? Well this has been done to stunning effect and is such an impressive museum.

    Just seeing a ship that is nearly 400 years old is amazing; the presentation and museum as a whole are just awesome. The building accommodates people so well with 7 levels packed artefacts and sections, brilliantly presented. The concise orientation film is superb. No wonder this is voted one of the top 10 museums globally.

    Plus a few pictures of the wonderful Langholmen Hostel in the old prison.

    A bit of a wander and a short run on paths which were a bit slushy in parts completed the day.
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  • Stockholm to Oslo

    February 24, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Just a 5h40 train journey from Stockholm to Oslo. Nice modern Swedish Railways train; breathtaking snowy scenery through the window and just so relaxing. Changed at Oslo Central Station to go a couple of stops on a suburban commuter train to where we were staying.Read more

  • Oslo

    February 25, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Parkrun was on the agenda today so. With Caroline on the verge of her 100th, we were disappointed that the local Tøyen Parkrun was cancelled the night before due to ice. Anyway, Nansenparken Parkrun was nearby in a new area of Oslo where the old airport was.

    Luckily the bus stop nearest us had a bus going right there, so on a bone chillingly cold day, we set off on the bus early. The wind was northerly and freezing so it was a tough run but fantastic to do and meet another super-friendly group of people doing Parkrun.

    We spent the afternoon wandering and taking in Oslo.
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  • Oslo to Copenhagen

    February 26, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    We had to rail replacement bus to Gothenburg but it was fine, if super cramped compared to the amazing legroom we’ve been getting on trains.

    At Gothenburg we got a regional train down through Southern Sweden via Malmo… crossing ‘The (Oresund) Bridge’ to Copenhagen Airport into Copenhagen Central station. Lots of train theatre as usual - Quiet Carriage misunderstandings, reservation tussles, travellers then commuters…always interesting to go on a regional train rather than an intercity.

    We’re staying at the Danhostel Copenhagen City which is great. 18 years since we last stayed in Copenhagen on a cycling trip and good to be back in this great city.

    Not easy to get pictures from the train but a few from the Oslo - Gothenburg leg, and the brights lights of Copenhagen.
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  • Copenhagen

    February 27, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    18 years since we last came to Copenhagen - that time with children and by bicycle. We stayed in a Danhostel last time and again this time, though in the centre.

    Great to see see the No. 1 cycling city worldwide and it’s great cycle tracks/lanes thronged with people getting about in safety. In the U.K. tiny scraps of cycle lane are resisted by some people who cannot see beyond the congestion they are part of.

    And what a hostel too! Easily beating many hotels for atmosphere, room temperature (not too hot), general quality and …. that view ouf the window.

    The natural swimming area just near the hotel (see photo - the Harbour Bath at Islands Brygge) was open… but, as it’s not even March yet, we thought we’d give it a miss this time 😂. It would be fantastic in summer though - we’ll be back.
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  • Copenhagen to Hamburg

    February 28, 2023 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    A 4.5 h trip from Copenhagen city to Hamburg. Beautiful Spring-like day as we passed through Denmark and places like Odense that we’d stayed in in 2004 on our Danish cycling tour.

    It’s great travelling South as the days are getting longer…

    Tomorrow - 5 separate trains, some with tight connections, to get back to the Alps. One late train and we’ll be overnighting somewhere else! Will it work?
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  • Hamburg-Bourg St Maurice

    March 1, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    A big train day. 5 trains through Germany and Switzerland and onto the French Alps.

    Changes at Basel, Biel, Geneva and Chambery. You never really know, when planning, where tight changes are good - connected so will wait if you are delayed- or whether you have a 15-min walk up and down stairs. Anyway, all worked out!

    Beautiful scenery for much of the way and really comfortable trains.

    The last trains from Geneva onwards old rolling stock, but super comfortable. Smooth, plush bouncy seats, some small compartments with corridors and yellow lighting. Trains like they used to be and super luxurious in their own way.

    From here, some relaxing in the Alps for a few days - I’ll post some pictures here and of the return trip home to York. This may turn into adventure if the National Strike on 7th March 2023 extends longer as threatened.
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  • Bourg St Maurice

    March 8, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    A few days of skiing from Bourg Saint Maurice before embarking on the journey home. We are staying over in Chambéry as France recovers from its big national strike over state pension reforms and our local early morning train out of Bourg St Maurice tomorrow is cancelled.

    It’s not been a great year for snow with milder than usual temperatures. In March, afternoon melting brings ice the following morning. The views of the Tarentaise area from the mountains are always amazing.

    Hopefully we’ll make it back home tomorrow via Paris and London.
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  • Chambéry to York

    March 9, 2023 in England ⋅ ❄️ 2 °C

    The last leg of the trip up through France and home. The TGV from Chambéry left around 30 minutes late which is a bit of a worry with a Eurostar to catch on Paris at Gare du Nord. Despite high speeds through France, we still had this delay arriving in Paris and the RER was operating a reduced frequency. So, we speed-walked to Metro Line 5 a few minutes walk from the Gare de Lyon. Not quite as fast as the RER, it is actually a more pleasant way to get to GDN.

    With the time lost, we got through passport and security at GDN with only a couple of minutes before boarding. I think for future trips, longer leeway in Paris is better - walk the 5k, have a coffee and a pastry etc!!

    We arrived in London, met John for tea (dinner?) and then on to York thanks to LNER.

    First thoughts on a fantastic trip:

    1) No regrets on the whistle stop - we wanted and needed that! In depth exploration can come later.
    2) Auschwitz-Birkenau in Winter was so important in this time of political populism. It felt a timely reminder.
    3) The Vasa museum in Stockholm was a highlight - hard to convey how good a museum that is.
    4) Train travel is fantastic across Europe; great fun The people-watching and train theatre were a huge part of the trip.
    5) We picked up a bit of the energy, positivity and co-operative spirit of Eastern Europe faced with war in Ukraine. The visible displays of pro-Ukraine support were powerful.
    6) Europe is fantastically varied and it was such a privilege to dip a toe in so many places we had always wanted to visit.
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    Trip end
    March 9, 2023