Manapouri

We spent 5 nights in Manapouri, a quiet little town with just 2 country roads in and no other way out, except by boat. It’s definitely out of the way and quiet, unlike the comparatively bustling Te Anau about 20 minutes down the road. Our primary purpose was to chill out for a few days after the long trip to NZ and to finally take the Doubtful Sound cruise.

We arrived via Queenstown after a short flight from Auckland, picked up our rental car and did a big shop at the local Countdown grocery store. Enjoyed the ride down the lake towards Te Anau, stopping for some yummy ice cream along the way and a stop at the Garston “Hunny Store” for some wonderful Manuka honey. The cottage in Manapouri didn’t disappoint, a small but very comfy cottage with a wonderful view of the Waiau River and a lovely garden.

Other than the Doubtful Sound cruise we spent some time exploring Te Anau, visited the Fiordland National Park visitors center and had a nice walk along the beach of Lake Te Anau. Another day we took a short walk along the fern lined path through a riverside beech forest at the start of the Kepler Track, one of NZ’s Great Walks. The Great Walks are multi-day, hut to hut hikes into the wilderness. So popular that you have to reserve the huts months ahead of time. These huts sleep dozens of people in bunk rooms. (Not my style!). There are some guided hikes that do these routes with posher accommodations, but they’re still very long days of hiking.

We also visited the other end of the Kepler walk which is at a dam at end of Lake Te Anau. It controls the levels of the Lake Te Anau, Lake Manapouri and the river in between, all part of the hydroelectric system that is based on the far shore of Lake Manapouri. Te Anau also has a bird sanctuary, interesting to see some of the native birds you’d have a hard time seeing in the wild.

Food wise, we had a nice dinner one night at “The Church” in Manapouri, an old church being put to good use as the local pub, very friendly local staff and good food and beer (not so great wine though. Oh well, it was called Squealing Pig, what did I expect?!). Also had some good takeout pizza from The Church another night. In Te Anau we found some gelato cones one very hot day, and also yummy pies from Miles Better Pies.

Manapouri is also home to the “3 Wee Bookshops”, a funky little bookshop in 2 small sheds and a caravan. Ruth Shaw, who runs the bookshop, has had quite a life! “The Bookseller at the End of the World” is her memoir.

And just down the road before you reach Manapouri is an alpaca farm where we spoke with the owner about the alpaca business. Who knew that NZ ships their alpacas all over the world, and they are in great demand because they tend to be disease free? Their shop has beautiful clothes and some of the softest alpaca yarn, of course I bought some.Read more