Opua

On our way from Cooper’s Beach to Opua, we made a few stops. First at the lovely Rainbow Falls. The viewing platforms at the top of the falls are just a few minutes from the car park, an easy walk. Heading down the trail to the bottom of the falls, there’s a great view of the falls and the cave behind them. And a lovely big pool that people were swimming in. Reminded me a bit of the pool at the bottom of Bash Bish Falls in NY, where my brother and older cousins were allowed to swim when we were kids, but I wasn’t! Wish I’d had my swimsuit on and had gone in the Rainbow Falls pool. Bet it was cold though!

Our next stop was The Stone Store, built in the 1830s, is the oldest surviving stone building in New Zealand. It’s part of the Kerikeri Mission Station established in 1819. The building was originally intended as a trading location and a storehouse for goods. It’s had many uses over the years and is now a gift shop for lots and lots of tour buses. The Kemp house, right behind the Stone Store has a cafe and lovely gardens (and a great compost heap!). Had a nice chat with a volunteer there. Across the pedestrian bridge there is a shelter with a recently carved Maori waka (canoe) at the entrance to Te Ahurea, a replica Māori village. We didn’t see the village, but the canoe was impressive!

On into Kerikeri for a repeat stop at the Keri Berries Farm stand for more real-fruit ice cream and coffee, as well as some fruit for breakfast and another packet of delicious ginger snaps. Some groceries from New World and on to Opua.

Our Airbnb was nestled high up on a steep ridge overlooking a valley of bush land, it felt like being in a treehouse. Crazy steep driveway down to the back of the house and quite a steep dropoff on the other side of the house. The view from one bedroom was a Jurassic Park-like view of a gigantic fern. From the other bedroom, a view into the treetops and across the valley. And there was a kete (basket/bag) hanging on the wall, just like the ones I’ve learned to make in my online Maori weaving course. A very quiet, comfy Airbnb. A nice place to spend a rainy day, and we had a couple of them.

Our first full day was sunny and warm, so we visited the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, just beyond Paihia. (Skip Paihia, unless you’re there to catch a boat ride somewhere.) Waitangi is the site of the 1840 signing of the treaty between the British government and the Māori tribes that was meant to benefit both sides. British governance to keep the foreign traders and settlers in line, and independence and sovereignty over their lands and resources for the Maori tribes. At least that was what the Māori chiefs were told was in the Te Reo Māori (Māori language) version of the treaty. The English version was different, which of has led to much conflict over the decades.

The guided tour we had was one of my top experiences on this trip. Our guide shared so much interesting information, history, Māori stories and more. The cultural show was fun, but not as informative as I’d hoped. Though the young men and women performing were very skilled. It takes place in a traditional whare (meeting house) with beautiful traditional carvings and woven wall coverings. The two modern museums were fascinating, though I didn’t have enough time or energy to see everything in them.

The grounds also house Ngātokimatawhaorua, the largest ceremonial waka (canoe). It is 123 feet long, can carry 88 paddlers and 40 passengers. It was carved to celebrate the centenary of the treaty in 1940. In recent decades it’s been taken out once a year on Waitangi Day, February 6. Young men train during the year to be eligible to join the crew to paddle the craft on Waitangi day.

The name of the canoe comes from the name of the canoe used by the early Polynesian explorer Kupe. “Matawhaorua was the canoe of Kupe, the Polynesian discoverer of the islands now known as New Zealand. On Kupe's return to Hawaiki, it was re-adzed and renamed Ngātokimatawhaorua ("ngā toki" translating as "the adzes").” (Wikipedia)

Our next two days were very rainy, we walked to a lookout point close to the house, relaxed, read, and re-learned the rules of Scrabble!Read more