Shantelle's Camino50

After years of dreaming and months of planning... it's time!!!
I'm about to embark on a transformative adventure and legendary pilgrimage that is the 'Camino de Santiago' - A 1000 year old pilgrimage predominantly across northern Spain 🇫🇷 🇪🇸 🥾🌳 Read more

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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 19 - to San Nicolas de Puente Fitero
Jun 9–10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Monastery experience - Take 2 🎬

The walk today was just gorgeous... you'll see in the pics this amazing patchwork quilt effect with the landscape! We climbed a pretty steep hill for about a km, and then when descending, the view was just breathtaking! (Cue Imagine Dragons' - I'm on Top of the World🎶). I may have grooved my way down the hill! 😝

On a side note, we saw this French guy yesterday at San Anton, and he was limping pretty badly. He also had a sign on his pack saying he was travelling without money, and 1€ would be really appreciated. But in our haste to leave yesterday, I forgot to give him something and felt quite sad about it.

We arrived really early in San Nicolas since it was only 10kms from Castrojeriz! But I've heard from countless sources that a night here is a very special and unique experience... they only have 10 beds, so it's 1st in best dressed!

We were able to leave our packs here but were not allowed to wait around, so we planned to walk into a nearby village for lunch. As we were organising ourselves, who should limp in but the French guy! Karen started talking to him as she spoke French pretty well. We gave him some spare cash, a muesli bar, and a couple sheets of Paracetamol for his pain and said goodbye as he was going to limp on.

As we walked the 2km into town, Karen told me his very sad story... His 7yo daughter had passed suddenly 7mths ago, and it had destroyed him... he has been walking ever since and said he will continue to walk until he dies. 😞 I truly hope the spirit of the camino gives him the peace & healing he so needs. ❤️🙏

Lunch in the village was ok... I just can't get into these Bocadillas, though! (Bread roll with omelette inside)... but it was all they offered, and we were hungry! 😬

We were also told the supermarket was closed - being a Sunday - but went for a walk past it anyway. I got distracted patting a cat... next minute, I hear my name across the street! It's Karen yelling 'quick, we've got 1 minute!' 🤣 ... The owner must live next door and was sitting outside, so he opened the shop up for us! 🫶

Back at San Nicolas, we prepped our beds (bottom bunk - yay!!) I did some laundry and found a nice spot out of the wind to just sit and listen to some tunes. I met a cute lizard who tried very hard to get some chocolate from my wrapper!

Before dinner, they did a small foot cleaning ritual on all of us... very unique to this Monastery. Dinner was a simple salad, pasta, bread and vino tinto - yummo!

There's no electricity here, so we all went off to bed at 9pm!! (But I can already hear snorers - back to the earplugs! 😬)

I really enjoyed the energy of this tiny little chapel in the middle of the fields ... a very peaceful experience indeed! 🩷Read more
Traveler I can only say wow hope you’re enjoying it
6/9/24Reply
Traveler Stunning! And in Autumn 🍂it's all shades of brown!!!
6/9/24Reply
TravelerYes ... the hospitaleiro was saying that last night... so I'm glad to see it in the Spring!
6/10/24Reply
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Day 20 - to Villarmentero de Campos
Jun 10–11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
We left the little Monastery this morning feeling a bit tired and out of sync! In these places, everyone gets up so early, and then it just creates angst about getting up and setting off early too! That's not my jam!

I was a little disappointed that it wasn't run by Italian hospitaleiros like I'd read about... just 2 Spaniards. And the foot washing ceremony seemed a little rushed and lasted all of 5 mins for 8 of us!?

The snorecopheny was in full swing last night, too... but my ear plugs (shoutout to 'happy ears' earplugs - THE best!) did an amazing job in dulling it all down! Luckily, I didn't have to get up for the toilet in the middle of the night as they were outside, and it was freezing! 🥶

It was a battle between sun & cloud today and extremely windy & cold. The route was a bit boring as the path was mostly along roads, so not alot of pics to take unfortunately!

It was one of those days where my gear just wouldn't sit right!... not sure what was going on!...maybe the wind?? ... something about woolly weather just really grates my goat!

We had some interesting chats with people from the US today, and the message I especially got was not to judge a book by its cover.... these people may have seemed a bit 'different' upon the 1st meeting, but wow, did they have some stories to share ... really deep, moving stories that put things into perspective ... I'm glad our paths crossed 💜Read more
Traveler You can actually take that ferry - save the legs?
6/10/24Reply
TravelerNo chance!
6/11/24Reply
Traveler Not wasting that sunlight 🌞
6/10/24Reply
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Random pics from Karens phone
June 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
These are a whole selection of pics of me that Karen took on her phone over a 2 week period.

Because they are all jumbled, I thought I'd just create a post for them on their own!
Traveler On the road after the church with the big bell going to Pamplona .. maybe?
6/10/24Reply
Traveler 😂😂
6/10/24Reply
Traveler That’s the church I was thinking of!
6/10/24Reply
Traveler🤣.... love that place!
6/10/24Reply
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Day 21 - to Carrion de Los Condes
Jun 11–12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Another short day today... Karen hurt her foot yesterday, so we thought we'd take it easy so as not to aggravate it further.

We stopped by a church known for its Order of the Knights Templar connection ... it was probably the longest time I've spent in a church!! The artefacts were so interesting!! ...

We decided to indulge in a little luxury tonight at the Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo in a twin room for €96!, so we figure it's pretty reasonable, AND today we celebrate 3 weeks of walking!! 🙌

This stunning place was a Benedictine Monastery between the 10th & 19th centuries. It wreaks history & grandeur ... the paintings that adorn its walls are incredible, and one can not help but feel like a princess in her castle!👸

We ran into some Aussies & Kiwi's this eve that we had dinner with ... Eric is such a character (he actually leant Mo $200 when he 1st met her as her card wasn't working!)... now that's a good egg! ... he's on his 4th camino and wears thongs and a tie-dyed singlet! ... his kiwi walking companions are sisters Tracey & Vicki. He met Tracey on her 1st Camino, and they've done 2 more together since! ... we had lots of laughs together tonight! 🫶Read more
Traveler Where are the rest of the „bubbles“ ???
6/11/24Reply
TravelerWhat these ones? 🥂... yeah nah! I'm happy with my aqua!
6/12/24Reply
TravelerLooks like a fun day. Love the photos
6/11/24Reply
TravelerI'm settling right in now! 😁
6/12/24Reply
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Day 22 - Carrion deLos Condes to Ledigos
Jun 12–13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
I set off for a 23km day today... 17km of today's path was said to be without toilets, water, food or shade, so we stocked up! It was your typical long straight road in a very remote area, but it was still absolutely beautiful... the flowers this time of year are so colourful!

About halfway, there was this mobile cafe! This guy sets it up with sea containers during the summer months! It was a lovely idea, but I didn't need anything... just a loo... but he didn't have one! So it was officially my 1st camino bush wee today! Not bad for 3 weeks, though! 😝🤣

I met this gorgeous, young loved up couple - Enzo & Paulene - with a huge dog! They are such free spirits and just camp everywhere in their tent with their pooch! His name is Quetzel... but today, his paws were all wrapped up in tape ... the stones were hurting him, and the owners had tried to protect them.

When we last spoke, Enzo had organised a ride into a bigger village to buy some doggy booties!! I never knew they even existed! Must be a camino thing as there are quite a few people with dogs.... one guy had a donkey!! I hope to cross paths with them again to see how he went and check out Quetzels' new shoes!! 🐾💜

Our little albergue tonight is called La Morena in Ledigos....it's been so carefully thought out for pilgrims! Lots of the Aussies I've met along the way are here, too!

The food was served at a decent time - 6pm - as usually it's between 7.30 and 8pm. The size was ample, and 3 courses cost 15€. I had mushrooms with rice, a lentil stew & a piece of swiss roll cake - not what I'd ordinarily choose, but it's all that was on offer - filled me up at least and I'll have lots of energy for my 27kms tomorrow where we meet the half way mark!?Read more
Traveler 💞
6/12/24Reply
Traveler 🫵🦶💪❣️❣️❣️
6/12/24Reply
Traveler 🥲hope he gets his hiking boots soon ☹️
6/13/24Reply
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Day 23 - to Bercianos Del Real Camino
Jun 13–14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Today felt like a journey as opposed to a destination... we left at 7am (I walked 27kms without any dressing on my feet and NO blisters!! 🙌) ... we dilly dallied here and there to break up the monotony of walking alongside roads with cars and trucks flying by.

One village called 'Sahagun' had a running of the bulls event, which we gladly missed due to the hour that we came through ... but we ran into a fellow pilgrim who was still hung over from the night before and was very excited that tonight was free flowing alcohol and food, so he was staying another night! He said an American pilgrim got in the bull ring last night and sustained some injuries 😬... she apparently got a huge buzz from it, though, and said it was the best experience ever!! 🤔

I learnt about 'bodegas' today. I asked a spanish guy what the doors were in the sides of hills with chimneys coming out the top of the hill! ... he said each door belonged to a family and on weekends they all come together for an underground party!

Apparently, the constant temperature underground is great for curing hams, sausages and cheeses and making and storing wine. Traditionally, it was where the guys got together to taste last year's vintage and cut down a sausage! Soooo interesting.

I'm feeling really frustrated with booking accommodation. Every day, we are booking ahead a day or 2 but it is just so time-consuming and draining! The other option is to pre book every nights accommodation ahead, but that also has its negatives because it doesn't give any flexibility and locks you in ....aaargghh! 😤

In 2 days, we arrive in Leon, a huge city, and everything appears to be booked out. It's unfortunate that it's a Saturday, too, as the Spaniards seem to flock to cities on weekends! We were planning to have a rest day here, but who knows now!? 🤷‍♀️Read more
Traveler We had coffee there nice rooms too
6/13/24Reply
TravelerIt was really nice ... I love all the grass around it!
6/14/24Reply
Traveler 🤣🤣
6/13/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 24 - to Mansilla de Las Mulas
Jun 14–15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 22 °C
27kms today! 🙌... I could tell I was a bit bored with the route when I got super excited about a curve in the road after 18kms of walking in a straight line! 🤣

Today, I walked a bit with Robert Clark from Brisbane - the founder of Crazy Clark's - remember that dollar shop chain!? He talked about how he started out in the early 80s and sold up around 2003. Interesting story! It certainly helped pass the time on that bloody long stretch of road!

I also passed this dear old blind spanish guy and tried to have a chat in spanish... he was literally in the middle of nowhere, walking along the same very long stretch of road! WOW - what an amazing human being! 🙏❤️

At the 1st village, I stopped and bought a Kit Kat (yep still obsessed with kit kats), and the owner gave me a bonus heart-shaped lollipop... how 'sweet'!! Then Karen bought me a kit kat too! It's like I won the lotto today! 🙌.... (it's the little things that count)

I stopped to have a chat with a girl from the Netherlands.... then along came a lady from Italy, then Karen from Switzerland. We were having a chat as you do on Camino with strangers in the middle of nowhere, and along comes a couple from the USA....

It was quite funny as we all introduced ourselves with the typical camino opening line... 'Hi, I'm 'so n so' from 'said country', around the circle... then the US lady says... 'ok, we'll leave you to solve the problems of the world then!' And off they trotted! ....🌏🤣

Towards the end of the walk, we chatted to 24yo Danielle from New Jersey. She started getting shin splints today, so we walked slowly with her to keep her company.

It was actually quite funny because a young, good-looking guy walked past and she started chatting to him... all of a sudden, she's metres ahead of us with NO limp and a sudden burst of energy! ... when he moved on... she was back by our side again....limping! 🤣😂

We had a wonderful, freshly cooked pizza tonight that was so delicious! A nice change from the usual pilgrim meal fare!

Just an 18km walk into the big city of Leon tomorrow - not a pleasant walk through the industrial area I hear, so I will be listening to some music I think! 🎧Read more
Traveler Must be safe on the roads over there. He would not last long on the Aussie roads.
6/15/24Reply
TravelerThis was like a side road off the main busy road.... just the odd tractor and bicigrinos (pilgrims on bikes) along this one.
6/15/24Reply
Traveler We only heard about the story of this guy a couple of days after we saw him- he’s a local legend & quite famous. Inspirational 💙
6/22/24Reply
TravelerWow! So he walks regularly along here?! ...and you were here a year ago!!😱... the secret to getting older is to keep moving?! 🩷
7/11/24Reply
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Day 25 - Mansilla to Leon
Jun 15–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The walk into Leon today actually wasn't as bad as I'd expected! A lot of reviews weren't great, but I still found it ok!... Maybe it helped that the weather was awesome?!

We chatted to Maika from San Francisco .. we've been bumping into her on and off since we met on Day 5! She's also had some shin splint issues, so today, she had her bag transported and was just taking it easy.

We arrived in Leon at 1pm, found our hostal, checked in, and went straight out again, looking for food!

Tonight, we caught up with Karen & Matt from Gwelup and some other pilgrims we haven't seen for ages! ... we had dinner at a restaurant right next to the cathedral ... lovely to catch up and share stories of our travels! 💜

Tomorrow is a rest day, so I will sleep in, get some laundry done, visit the cathedral, and just give these feet some well-deserved rest I think! 👣 = ❤️Read more
TravelerGoing so well 👣 😘 enjoy your leisure day in Leon
6/15/24Reply
TravelerI will ...any recommendations for a Sunday when all is closed?
6/16/24Reply
Traveler A great looking room to relax in x
6/15/24Reply
TravelerI think I was just tired and overwhelmed when i was trying to find somewhere the other night, but it all turned out well in the end!🩷
6/16/24Reply
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Day 26 - Rest Day in Leon
June 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Had a lovely big sleep in today... was so nice ❤️... but that's it for rest days now until Santiago!! I know I initially said I'd take 1 rest day per week... but I just dont feel the need to stop every week and would rather have a few shorter days walking to make up for it!

The day went so fast! I really wanted a siesta as I've felt quite tired these last couple of days.... but it didn't happen today! 😬

I had a delicious pad thai with Gambas (prawns) for lunch today and met some friends this evening to celebrate 'crazy' Robs 60th birthday tomorrow...didn't hang around for long though, as needed to get back and plan out our itinerary & accommodation for the next couple of weeks! Apparently, it starts getting quite busy now as school breaks for the European summer and a lot of school groups and locals start their camino!

What's really funny about being in these cities is...

1. Even with everyone around you dressed to the 9s and all glammed up for a night out in the big city, it's perfectly OK and normal to look like we do as pilgrims ... fluffy hair, no makeup, sandals with socks, bumbag over the shoulder, and very, very simple mismatched attire! 🤣... we really do stick out like 🐕's ⚽️'s

2. Here we are ...stepping foot into this brand new city in this foreign country that we've never visited before... walking down the main drag... and yet, we still bump into people we know left, right and centre! It's just crazy! 🤪

Up at 5am tomorrow to get an early start for a 32km day! I can't wait to start walking, though, to be honest! It's time to move on from the rat race into the fields again! 💚🌳Read more
Traveler What a classic 🤎
6/17/24Reply
Traveler Cleaning his nose?
6/17/24Reply
TravelerShe may have well been! So cute 😍
6/17/24Reply
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Day 27 - Leon to Villavente
Jun 17–18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Such an early start today - up at 5am for a 6am start!! It's probably the 1st and last time we do that! 😬

The walk today was quite blah out of Leon through the burbs. We decided to take the 'scenic' route, which added 2.5kms, but it was worth it to get away from the main highway!

I listened to the very thoughtful playlist that Charley put together for me and started dancing with my sticks! I was definitely in my happy place💜... but then the delirium set in....

Karen & I were talking about something, and both of us at the same time started singing that 10cc song, 'The things we do for love'... so I opened my Spotify app, searched for the song and cranked it up loud. We were bopping all over the road for about an hour, sticks twirling... would have been quite a sight 🤣... but lots of laughs as we walked along the very long, straight bitumen road.

A young guy came up beside us and even had a lil groove too! We had such an interesting chat... he was from Colorado, 22yo & was studying to be a Catholic Priest!!! (For the life of me, I can't recall his name! 🤔)

We arrived with extremely sore feet this arvo at Villavente...no blisters but just really sore! It's a little 'casa rural' with 5 bedrooms... a bit like a bed & breakfast.

We had an amazing communal dinner tonight that the owners prepared for us all. The fireplace was even lit! Such a lovely place to stay and I'm so glad Karen found this lil gem! 🙌

An early night for me tonight! Brekky is served at 7.30am... seriously, this has to be the best place yet! ❤️Read more
Traveler What a great stay! And look at the Singer sewing machine!
6/17/24Reply
TravelerThere were quite a few of those machines in the house!
6/18/24Reply
TravelerGet your groove on🤓
6/17/24Reply
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Day 28 - Villavente to Astorga
Jun 18–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Our 1st rainy day on camino!!!

Rainy days generally make me feel pretty moody, so I didn't start out with a great mindset today!

BUT... once on the path again, hearing the frogs croak and seeing the plants drink up all that yummy rainwater, made it all ok! ☺️

I was grateful for a calm day with no wind, a pebbly surface that prevented me from sinking into the mud and for the mindfulness that this weather provides, keeping me in the here and now 🙌

However, we made one mistake today in not taking the longer 'scenic route' - and ended up on the side of the highway in long grass, with trucks whizzing by 😬...not pleasant at all!

We arrived in Astorga with the sun shining through the clouds and the most beautiful buildings...wish I had longer to explore this place!

Today is officially the end of the Meseta and the 'mind' phase - tomorrow, we commence the 'spiritual' or 'soul' phase! 🙏Read more
Traveler Stunning!
6/18/24Reply
Travelerabsolutely beautiful! 😍
6/18/24Reply
TravelerYou got to test the poncho!! Great photos and commentary 👌
6/18/24Reply
TravelerI did!! It worked a treat! Thanks for recommendation! ❤️... worked a treat today, too, but I'll post about that tonight!
6/19/24Reply
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Day 29 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Jun 19–20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
We left Astorga around 8.45am after a yummy breakfast (which I don't normally have, but it was free today! 🙌)...the sun was shining through, and all was looking well.

11am came around, and the sun had a real bite to it, so I slip, slop, slapped at the next village! Then the dark clouds started rolling in and it got soooo cold! Then boom, it rains...and rains...and rains! Way more than yesterday! 😬... it was actually fun for a while, dodging puddles and all, but then I couldn't feel my fingers!

About 3kms from my bed for the night, we came across this massive dumping of small hail! It was so odd to all be in this one spot and nowhere else! 🤷‍♀️

I was very excited to see Quetzel again - the big dog with the sore paws! Enzo was happy to report that he was doing really well! ❤️🐾

I saw this man & his dog sitting under an umbrella on the track this morning and watched as 7 or so pilgrims walked right on by! So I stopped to see what he was selling... turns out he was giving unique credencial stamps made with his very own designs, using wax - for a donation! Hell yeah, I was sold and it's my best stamp yet!! 👌

Tonight, we went to the monastery for the pilgrim mass and some Gregorian chanting! Wasn't quite what I was expecting but a great experience, nonetheless!

There's a special video attached from one of the monks to Kai, who turns 18 today (Thursday), so a huge 'Happy Birthday' shout out to my favourite son!❤️🙌🌈 Sorry I couldn't be there with you to celebrate... I'm 💯 with you in spirit, though, and will make up for it on my return! ...hope you have an absolutely awesome day! 😘

It's all happening tomorrow!!... Kai's birthday, 2 mountains to climb, Cruz de Ferro & summer solstice!🙏Read more
Traveler Lovely! If it's wax take good care. I had one that disintegrated
6/19/24Reply
Traveler ❤️❤️❤️
6/19/24Reply
Traveler How weird! 🧐
6/19/24Reply
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Day 30- Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Jun 20–21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Talk about feeling all the emotions in one day!

It started out brilliantly... cloudy but no rain... noice! Then we started climbing, which I also loved! Being around so many trees and hearing the birds singing again was beautiful. I bolted up this rocky, mountainous path with so much energy and gusto. I truly felt invigorated at the next village - Foncebadon - the sun was shining and I felt I was too! ✨️... I ordered crepes in honour of Kai & his big day ... they were delish and fuelled my engine nicely!

We continued up the mountain to Cruz de Ferro. It's actually the highest point on the Camino Frances at 1504m above sea level! It's such a simple structure - a wooden pole with an iron cross on top - but an iconic symbol on the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims leave stones here to symbolise leaving their burdens behind. It's also a special place to give thought to loved ones passed.

But then it got challenging.... it got so cold again! ... it started to rain, and it just wouldn't stop. It made for a very challenging afternoon as we still had 12km or so to go. The sand was now mud, the rocks were slippery, and we were going downhill! At the next village we sheltered in a bar for a while but the rain was relentless... I may have cursed a little! 😬... we didn't arrive in Molinesca until 5.45pm!!! A big 10 hour day (incl 2hrs for rest). It was so great to be on steady, flat ground again!

I'm going to sleep well tonight after todays efforts and in preparation for 27km tomorrow! 🙌Read more
Traveler Aww Ketzel looks happy now🐾
6/20/24Reply
Traveler Eeek!
6/20/24Reply
Traveler Looks delicious but does this give you enough sustenance?
6/20/24Reply
TravelerI still have the energy, so it's fine... not a great selection over here ...they eat soooo much meat!! 🤮
6/21/24Reply
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Day 31 - to Valtuille de Arriba
Jun 21–22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
I woke to the bluest sky this morning... what a relief! 🫶 We set off at 7.15am for 28kms. The walk was really pleasant today... lots of little villages every 5kms or so and heaps of vineyards!

1st stop was Ponferrada, where the Knights Templar Castle is ... we had a pancake brekky until 9 am, but the castle didn't open until 10 am, so I sadly had to skip the tour as there was still 21km to walk!

We chatted to a German lady who told us she shared a room with a Japanese man last night since he had 4 beds in his room! However, she was most horrified when she found his teeth in a glass in the bathroom, and he also didn't close the door when using the toilet - for 1s or 2s!!! 😱... I think she was scarred for life! 🤣

We got very distracted along the route today as there were so many fruit and nut trees!! But what caught our eye the most was a big cherry tree!! We tried to pick from it, but most of the fruit was too ripe...bummer! ☹️

I spontaneously booked an albergue for tonight, which is in a very small village with very little around. However, the reviews were great, and it sounded nice with dinner & breakfast ... she also has 5 dogs for me to play with!!

We arrived at La Biznaga - Albergue de Peregrinos, and we're sitting out back waiting to be checked in when who pops their head out the door, but MO from the US! Our long-lost friend from week 1!!! We have been keeping in touch on whatsapp, but neither of us knew where we were at! It was such a nice surprise, and we all had a lovely communal dinner, sharing stories and having a good laugh! 🍷

The weather is warming up, so we'll 'aim' to leave earlier to miss the hottest part of the day tomorrow which is around 3pm. 🌞... Buenos noches!! 🌚Read more
Traveler Looks like a holly tree with those spiky leaves! 🍃
6/21/24Reply
TravelerSo sorry... it was late and eyes closing when I wrote that.... I tool pics of holly tree because I'd never seen one!!! Oopsie ...will edit that now! ... lots of lots of little red balls on trees today! 🤣
6/21/24Reply
Traveler🤣🤣🤣
6/22/24Reply
TravelerHaha 😛
6/22/24Reply
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Day 32 - VdA to Las Herrerias
Jun 22–23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Today was HUGE! Here I was thinking it would be a light 23km day, but nope!... it turned out to be about 29km!!

So we all decided to take the alternate scenic route via Pradela out of Villafranca (as opposed to walking on bitumen along a highway - yeah nah!) ... the climb was ridiculously steep and long! However, the views on the way up and on top were spectacular!! What a feat... I can seriously do hard things!!

There was a little albergue up top that made chestnut cake with the local produce ...so I obliged and had some....soooo good! 👌 ... pretty sure I burnt that off going downhill for the next 5km! 😬

I had some nice chats today with a lovely couple from Italy, a couple from Chicago & a lady from Maine!
Somehow, the topic of age came up, and the Italian couple would not believe me when I said I was 50! They were genuinely surprised... the lady said 'but you look like just a girl!!' 🤣...and her husband asked to see my passport!! 😂....made my day!! 🩷

I met with the girls for dinner and Sangria! Accom tonight is at La Pandela. We came out of the restaurant and lo and behold there are 3 horses just going for a wander on the road.. no owner in sight!!

Tomorrow, we climb to the top of O'Cebreiro ... it's an 8km climb rising to 1300m above sea level, but we're already at 700m so it's not too bad I guess.... compared to today's mountain, anything is possible!!Read more
TravelerToday's journey though huge gave amazing scenery and gifts along the way. Loved the route you took. ❤️
6/22/24Reply
TravelerGreat day for you as is tomorrow great story about your age Buen Camino
6/22/24Reply
Traveler The cows are mostly very inquisitive and watch you pass with ?interest ☺️ such beautiful faces
6/22/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 33 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria
Jun 23–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We were up at 5.30am for our big climb up to O'Cebreiro today! 5 of us met outside at 6.30am to walk together but we soon realised that this ascent + deep conversation weren't going to work! 😅... so we all split and did our own solo trot up!

Speaking of trot.... OMG the amount of horse crap on the way up the mountain was collosal!! And some of it... well, let's just say, their diets could do with some adjusting!! 💩🐴

The view was absolutely spectacular - everything is so fertile, lush, and abundant in this neck of the woods - the Galicias. The mist was literally rolling over the top and into the valleys below.... I stopped and took way too many pics 🤣.... but they just don't do these views justice!!

This region is rooted in celtic tradition and is known for its green wooded valleys, grey stone cities & the ritualistic 'queimada' drink said to ward off evil spirits!! Tonight at the accommodation, we had a communal dinner and then prepared some queimada!! (This is the 5th time he's prepared it for a group this year, so we were really fortunate!)... there's even blue flames!

The pressure of booking accommodation is being felt all through the camino community at this stage of the route! Tomorrow, we are headed for Sarria .... sadly, the peace and tranquillity comes to an abrupt end when locals & school groups walk the last 100km to Santiago to get their compestella certificate (mostly spanish catholics)...so for them, it's an exciting 5 day experience and they're in party mode! ... it's all part of the journey, I guess... so I'll see for myself in a couple of days what it's like! 😬Read more
TravelerHi twice we did it Saria to Santiago with not many school kids so wait and see I love your pictures and great you are having a ball
6/23/24Reply
TravelerHave seen 2 school groups just in Samos! But I really hope your right! 🤞
6/24/24Reply
TravelerOnce again, stunning photos! 😍 X
6/23/24Reply
TravelerSpain makes it easy! 🇪🇸❤️
6/24/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 34 - Fonfria to Samos
Jun 24–25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Wow, wow, wow!! As far as scenery goes ...today takes the cake! I seriously felt like Alice walking through Wonderland! You'll see many pics, but they just don't do it justice! This view (for pretty much 10kms) was so stunning that my eyes got 'sweaty!' ...seriously!!!

We left at 7am and so glad, because the 'misty ocean' effect was perfect.... the tops of other mountains looked like islands in an ocean of clouds! 👌 (one reminded me a lot of Rotto - even the distant wind turbines looked like the white slithers of the lighthouses we see from the mainland!

Upon leaving Triacastella, we picked up a walking buddy....a border collie we called John🐾 🤣! I tried to get him to go home but he wanted to stay with us! We were too far out of the village to turn back, so we decided to get help at the next village... but keeping him off the roads was worrisome!

Along the route, we met Lewis from Puerto Rico. John 🐾 seemed to enjoy walking faster with him, so we never saw them again! He was an animal lover too, so I knew he'd be in good hands!
I later ran into another pilgrim in Samos, who told me, (via google translate in portoguese 🤣) that Lewis had made some calls with the help of locals, and the owner was coming to get him!! 🙌

We took a longer alternate route today since it was along the river the whole way, and it was the best decision ever!! Once in Samos, we did a monastery tour... it was beautiful but a bit disappointing as it was all in Spanish! (funny that 🤣) It would have been nice to know the history of what we were looking at, though.

I've come to realise how much I enjoy walking on my own! I seem to be so much more present and aware of everything around me... if I hear a faster walker coming up behind me, I stop, wait for them to pass, and continue! This probably won't be possible from now until the end, as we hit Sarria tomorrow! 😬

Today, the magic was all around me as you'll see in the pics!✨️💛✨️Read more
Traveler So beautiful 😍
6/24/24Reply
Traveler Wow, that is just so serene and beautiful
6/24/24Reply
Traveler Yes looking good
6/24/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 35 - Samos to Barbadelo
Jun 25–26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
As was the beautiful rainforest setting I came in with yesterday, so it was to be this morning, too!

We set off at 7am in the moody mist - only having about 50mtrs of visibility. On my skin, it felt like those delicate mist sprayers we have in beer gardens in the summertime! ... it was a dreamy, flowy morning as the path meandered alongside the river towards Sarria.

It's surreal to think that yesterday I was high above the mist looking down on it ...strewn out in front of me like a wavy ocean and the clear, blue sky above. Yet today, it was like I had taken a deepsea dive, and now here I was at the bottom, shrouded in the mist....✨️

The other interesting thing I noticed was that Sarria was reasonably quiet! Where were the busloads of '100km pilgrims' that everyone speaks of?! Maybe they started really early?! 🤷‍♀️

We arrived at the best accommodation today - Casa Barbadelo! I was excited about the menu because it has so much variety for vego food! 🙌...they also have a pool but I didn't go in it as the weather suddenly became quite cool and it rained a little ... but overall, the vibe here is so chilled! 👌

Accommodation is all booked in for the next 9 days, so that's a huge weight off our shoulders as it takes a lot of downtime to map out km's, research & book (reviews are so important - especially to see who has bedbugs!! 🪲)

So yeah, just another day in the office for me today! 😘🫶Read more
Traveler Yes I do that too many don’t get enough love
6/25/24Reply
TravelerSo many are chained up too or locked up in a gated off area ...fur is all matted too... poor things
6/26/24Reply
Traveler Wonderful 👍
6/25/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 36 - Barbadelo to Castromaior
Jun 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
It was a shame to have to leave last night's accommodation, but the show must go on! Today was a long 29kms. I took an alternate route, which Karen later told me, added 1km... darn it! I also officially passed the 1st pillar stating we were under 100kms!!🙌

I just walked and walked and walked today, only stopping for about 20mins ... such a silly thing to do really, as I'd only eaten a banana & a snickers bar! 😬... not good, I know! And to top it off, the restaurant near us served the usual unhealthy pilgrim crap tonight... so disappointing not to have a satisfying meal after a hard day's work!

We passed this one guy with 3 large dogs walking in the other direction. We had a 'chat' with my very limited spanish and Karen's french! These were large breed dogs that he carries food for and extra water. He said after losing his mum, his dogs are now his family, who he walks with day in, day out.

Today, I was in my head more and quite disconnected from my surroundings... not sure why... maybe the fact that there were more people and oh yeah - I see school kids... they're EVERYWHERE!! 😬

Tomorrow is a brand new day 🌞, I'm sure after I wake from a good night's sleep, I'll be raring to go again! But right now, I'm just really, really tired, so I'll keep it short and sweet 🌙Read more
Traveler ❤️❤️
6/26/24Reply
Traveler There is a very good pizza place there you should have asked haha
6/26/24Reply
Traveler A big heart ❤️
6/26/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 37 - Castromaior to Casanova
Jun 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I sat on the edge of the bed this morning with my feet dangling... felt soooo good! 😅... I'm going to hit the floatlab when I get back and get me some more of that weightlessness feel! 💚

On the way out this morning, we took a small detour to the ruins of Castro de Castromaior. It's one of the most important archeological sites in northwest Spain. The excavations are in villages dating from the 4th century BC! The morning mist provided the perfect eerie atmosphere for our viewing pleasure! Actually, the mist was more like a spray! 💦

I heard they ran out of funds in 2010, so nothing has happened since, such a shame as there would be so much more history to uncover under there!

As if the ruins weren't enough excitement for one day...lo and behold, we hear the trotting of many a hoof!! We turn around, and there's this cavalry of spaniards on horseback! It was awesome to witness ❤️ ... the day was off to a good start! 🙌

I chatted to this adorable 8 year old boy and his abuelo (grandad) from Valencia, walking the last 100kms, then I met a gorgeous family from Catalonia - mum, dad & 15yo daughter walking from Ponferrada! We chatted for a couple of hours - it was the best spanish lesson I've had yet! It was a special day for meeting new people and chatting about our cultures! 🫶

Our accommodation tonight at Casa Bolbereta is so odd ... all the reviews raved about the amazing home-cooked food here, but it was absolutely shite!! We definitely think it's the cooks' day off as it was far from amazing!

That's 2 nights in a row now with terrible meals! I don't get it!? I was under the impression that the food in Spain was incredible!? 🤷‍♀️😬... we've had a few good meals, but generally, it's been more of a miss than a hit!

I think today was around 25km... tomorrow is 23ish, and then it's 3 days under 15km (just dragging it out because I can! 😜).... so surreal to think this has been my life for the last 37 days! I'm feeling very grateful & fortunate 🩷Read more
TravelerLoving following your journey. You are my morning fix.😉Might have to keep going.
6/27/24Reply
TravelerLol... not sure the fam would agree! 🤣... tbh I'm ready to come home now, this routine does get tiring!
6/29/24Reply
TravelerYes you have done well. A huge effort. So many memories.
6/29/24Reply
TravelerSure has been! looking forward to your healing hands though! 🙌
6/29/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 38 - Casanova to Arzua
Jun 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
I think I've adapted to the crowds more now as today felt a bit like a festival of sorts! Or maybe it's because I'm so near the end that it feels like fiesta time!?

I saw heaps and heaps of eucalypt trees today, young and old! It was pretty cool actually, and I felt at home amongst them 💚... I even felt the urge to collect some pretty coloured leaves just for fun!

I read that the eucalypt tree came to Europe and to Galicia in the 19th century when a Galician monk brought some seeds from the far away land of Australia where he had been a missionary.... so interesting!!

Today was a lovely relaxed meander up & down hills, through village after village! I didn't feel rushed and didn't really care what time I arrived... I was just really enjoying the journey. I even made 3 stops, which I'm actually pretty proud of because usually I power on through 😬

I saw sheep, horses, dogs, cats, snails, cows, slow walkers, fast walkers, LOUD walkers, young & old... it's so diverse here... you really do get all walks of life ... It's awesome to be amongst it!
🫶

Another awesome pitstop was at the rivers edge! I took my shoes off and dipped my feet into the cold water....soooo good.... my feet were very happy!!!👣💦

There were a few hippies selling their wares today, too! They had some cool handmade jewellery! It felt good to stop and make the effort to look at their handiwork! 💛

I ran into Quetzel again today, too!! ... I thought they were long gone since I hadn't seen them for quite some time now! It happens all the time on Camino... you just never know who you'll bump into again ... weeks later, even! ... just when you think you'll never cross paths again! ...BOOM!✨️

Only 3 more days of walking to go, and they are all between 10 - 15kms, so maybe a couple of sleep-ins are on the cards?!Read more
Traveler 💚
6/28/24Reply
Traveler I also love seeing the eucalyptus in Spain.
6/28/24Reply
TravelerYeah, so random yet cool!
6/29/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
2 1 4 5 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 2
Day 39 - Arzua to A Brea
Jun 29–30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
What a treat it was to sleep in until 7.45am this morning AND to have the included breakfast! I haven't really been eating b/f - well, just a banana - but it was a nice change!

Most people I've been walking with these past few days are arriving in Santiago tomorrow (Sunday). But because we're avoiding the Sunday Santiago crowds, we've opted to do 3 shorter days and rock up on Monday instead!

The crowds have definitely picked up, and other routes have joined up with our route now, too, hence the larger numbers. Though, despite all of this, I still had many moments of complete solitude...so it balanced out nicely! 🙌

We've had another epic fail in the food dept! ...so I booked this place tonight in A Brea - Mar de Frisia - based on the amazing food reviews about their home cooking, only to arrive and be told that the cook (the hosts' son) is away on vacation and comes back in 2 days! 😩...so we had to go down to a local bar and have the ever exciting stock standard pilgrim food yet again!

We were, however, entertained by the town drunks watching their soccer game on TV! ...and I thought Americans were loud! They got nothing on a drunk Spaniard! 🥴

In the lead up to dinner... I had a great chat with a couple from Barcelona. It's amazing how much your spanish improves by just having a banter! Their english was limited as was my spanish BUT we still managed to have an interesting conversation for over an hour! ❤️

I always check my mattress before going to sleep for bed bugs, and I got a little scare tonight when I saw some black dots... so I called the lovely owner in ... and we looked together with my phone light. She was also freaking because it's such an inconvenience to have them, not to mention the costs involved to eradicate. It 'appears' to just be dust & and debris, so fingers crossed, she's right! 🤞

The cheeky bugger said as she left, though....
'Goodnight, don't let the bed bugs bite!' 🤣🕷Read more
Traveler I've got many of them too 😂 If you know, you know!!!!
6/29/24Reply
TravelerLol ...and you guys definitely know!!
6/30/24Reply
Traveler Guilty of these too😂😂
6/29/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 40 - A Brea to Lavacolla
Jun 30–Jul 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
It appears the Gods wanted to provide one last 'cleansing' whilst on this wild ride... so I got to wear my rain poncho for the 4th time in 40 days (L☀️VE this ratio, how fortunate is that!!🙏)

Upon leaving Mar de Frisia this morning, we had a chat with the host about the business side of running a pensione (family owned guesthouse). I found it interesting to hear that booking.com rips them off big time! Not just with fees, but with the way they pay the hosts... they don't use a reference system and just randomly dump different amounts at different times into their account, so she said it's a bookkeeping nightmare!!
Note to self: always select the 'pay at property' option if provided or better yet, call them directly to book and cut out the middle man!

Today, I'm headed for Lavacolla ... just 10kms from Santiago! 😱

⚽️⚾️Fun fact... Lavacolla's significance to the history of the Camino is that it was the last place pilgrims would wash before arriving in Santiago. The name 'Lavacolla' translates to 'wash your scrotum' 😂... so it's been theorized that this is how it got its name!
It was also reputed to be the location of many brothels offering one last opportunity to rack up a few more sins prior to absolution and a life of new found purity! 🤣

As I arrived in Lavacolla, I noticed a windband and all the locals were dressed in their Sunday best!!
My 1st thought was... oh, how nice!! They're celebrating my soon to be completion of the camino!! 🤣... but it turns out I landed right at the start of their St. Paul festival (or was it St. Peter 🤔!) There was live salsa music & a great vibe, so we hung out for a couple of hours before heading to the accommodation - Pazo Xan Xorbo - a very quaint rural property 1km from the village.

Tomorrow feels so surreal, I can't quite put my finger on it. I know it's too soon to process all that's been and all that will be, but I feel like a deer in the headlights right now! It's blowing my mind that I reach my destination tomorrow, after being on this journey for nearly 7 weeks!

How will I integrate what I've learnt about myself and the world around me? How will I keep the spirit of the camino alive in my daily life?
Maybe those I know that have had this Camino experience can relate?!

A memorial plaque on the side of the road this afternoon caught my attention and seemed quite fitting - it read...

'Those were the days my pilgrim friend,
I thought they would never end'

- in memory of Helen Richards - 1979 to 2017

💚🙏Read more
Traveler I love the layers.
6/30/24Reply
Traveler You are coming home 💚🌳😍
6/30/24Reply
TravelerWhy are you awake at 5am?! 😳...yeah it's a bit of a reminder for all us Aussies isn't it! 🌳
6/30/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
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Day 41 - to Santiago de Compestella
Jul 1–4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Wow... What a day!!

It started with a beautiful sunrise through the eucalypt trees, then I bumped into my 84yo Japanese friend, Yuki, whom I met on Day 1 at my albergue in France!! How serendipitous to be walking into Santiago on the last day together, too! 🙌

The stretch through the city felt like it would never end... I've walked a lot of km's, but those 5 were the longest!!

Karen got a bit sad when she looked at the map and realised that the yellow line we had been following all this time had suddenly stopped!!

Coming into the Plaza de Obradoiro was pretty awesome ...1st of all, there was a musician playing the bag pipes, and then we saw the majestic Catedral de Santiago de Compestela!! What a stunning piece of architecture! 👌

No one we knew was there at 1st, but then Mo (from week 1) and Theresa showed up to greet us and then Denise & Doug! So hugs were in full swing with lots n lots of pics!

I didn't shed a tear like many do, and to be honest, I still (12 hours later) haven't really processed what I've just done?! It's like an emptiness - since the journey has come to an end. I really wish I had my family here because I'm pretty sure they would help me to celebrate this way more than I'm able to right now... I miss them heaps!

Tomorrow, I'm planning to take some time to sit in the Plaza and soak it all in. It will all make sense when it's meant to, I guess ...all in good time! 💚

Karen will continue walking to Finisterre & Muxia, which will take her another 5 days or so we will farewell each other tomorrow. I plan to catch a bus to visit 'the end of the world' as it was referred to back in the day!

My hotel for 3 nights is very cute (Casa Celsa-Bebantes) and is only 50mtrs from the Plaza where all the Pilgrims come in! Yes, it's loud, but I'm really liking it!

I'm pretty shattered. It's been a long day, and I have no idea how I'm still awake! BUT who cares....cos I can sleep in tomorrow!! Wooo hooooo!!Read more
TravelerWoohoo! 🎉🎉🎉 Congratulations, what an amazing achievement! Xx
7/1/24Reply
TravelerThanks Sal! Ok...what's next?! The Bib?! 🤣
7/2/24Reply
Traveler👍🏻 let’s plan it! X
7/3/24Reply
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Shantelle's Camino50 Traveler
2
2 1 1 1 2
Day 42 - Sight seeing in Santiago
July 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
I farewelled Karen this morning as she set off on foot for Finisterre & Muxia - around 115kms over another 5 days. I was relieved not to be walking but at the same time envious to be hiking again back out into nature!

Karen was there for me back in the beginning, helping me when I was sick as a dog! It's been an incredible journey & I'm very grateful that our paths have crossed! We've taught each other many lessons too! - I'm thinking we may pop in for a visit next year when we're in Italy since Switzerland is just over the border! 🤞

As I headed back to the hotel room, I noticed a man with a huge cart and a dog. He was holding a sign saying 'free hugs' ... actually, I saw him yesterday too, but I didn't even consider doing what I did next.... I went up and gave him a hug! 💚 I made the comment to him ... 'nobody is stopping for you'
and he said...
'It's not about the ones who don't stop. It's about the ones that do!' Cue the 'sweaty eyes' 😭

I talked to him for quite some time, patted his dog Pauline 🐾 and found out he's german and on his way to Rome. He counts the hugs he gets every day (he said to keep his mind active), and his goal is 10,000! I asked him his name and lo & behold it was 'Kai' 🫶

I met my friend Jacinda from Maine, USA, for lunch, and we had lots of laughs over a couple of gin & tonics at this amazing Cafe right across from the Cathedral. It was such a memorable afternoon! Then we went for a little shop (probs not a good idea when you're tipsy 🤪) and I bought an Amber ring, a turquoise bracelet & this cool piece of wooden pilgrim art (🤞 for customs!)

I then treated myself to a delightful 90min massage and then later caught up with some aussie & kiwi friends for a wee bit before hitting the hay!

The photos are a bit light on today, but I'm going to 'the end of the world tomorrow' on the bus, so I will surely make up for it!Read more
Traveler Aww 🥹
7/2/24Reply
Traveler 🧡
7/2/24Reply
TravelerIt has been a joy joining you on your special journey, can’t wait to catch up when you are home xx
7/2/24Reply
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