• Dave Swanson

Desert Southwest 2024

A 19-day adventure by Dave Read more
  • Trip start
    October 22, 2024

    Day 1 - Lawrence to Limon

    October 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Easy travel day, today. Left home at 10 am and arrived at the Comfort Inn in Limon about 4:15 pm with a time zone change. Very uneventful, but a nice day. It got a little bright at the end with the sun so low. Hotel is nice but nothing extraordinary.

    Had dinner at a small local Georgian restaurant. That's the country of Georgia, not the state. Anyway, excellent food and helpful and super friendly staff. I had chicken kebab with a beet and pineapple salad. Cindy has the beef stroganoff with a Greek salad. We didn't manage to finish it, but it was all very tasty. They also make pastries in the kitchen, so we bought a Napoleon and a piece of baklava. Haven't tried them yet, but I'm sure they'll be excellent. If you ever travel through Limon, check out the Alex Taverna. It'll be worth your while!
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  • Day 2 - Limon to Montrose

    October 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 36 °F

    Started the day early traveling across the vast plains of eastern Colorado. Made a stop along our route to Colorado Springs at the Paint Mines Interpretive Park outside the town of Calhan. Just happened to discover this while searching for things to do along the way from Limon to Montrose. Definitely worth the stop and a very interesting introduction to what we'll be seeing later in the trip.
    This is a county park but the well maintained trails made for a nice hike. There are rich yellows and reds in the exposed clay soils that make the formations beautiful.
    We then headed up into the Rockies from Colorado Springs. Had lunch at a pretty little park in Woodland Park, then started the trek through the mountains. Lots of beautiful snow capped mountains and broad valleys dotted with the golden leaves of aspen and cottonwood trees. We crossed the Continental Divide at Monarch Pass, elevation 11,312 feet above sea level. Beautiful and quite serpentine, the road was thankfully not very busy. We then followed along the Gunnison River until we arrived in Montrose.
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  • Day 3 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison

    October 24, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Today we went up into the mountains from Montrose to see Black Canyon National Park. This relatively small park covers both sides of the gorge on the Gunnison River, but we only visited the South Rim as it would have taken many more hours to get to and navigate through the North Rim. Anyway, we traveled up a few thousand feet to get into the park. Once in, there's a single road that stretches around 7 miles to allow access to various viewing points. The narrow canyon offers a nearly vertical drop of over 2000 feet at times. There are spectacular rock formations and amazing bands of color throughout the whole canyon. A truly incredible natural feature that my photography cannot even come close to showing.
    After our return to town, we took a stroll along the river in town (not the Gunnison) where we saw more of the golden Narrow Leaf Cottonwoods. Then dinner at a local brewery called Colorado Boy. Great pizza, pretty good beer, and a laid back vibe.
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  • Day 4 - Montrose to Moab

    October 25, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Set out somewhat early for Moab today. We decided to take the southern route and make a pitstop in Telluride. We had spectacular views of the San Juan mountains, now capped in snow. We doubled back to head into Telluride, a nice winding two lane road along the San Miguel river. We stopped at a county park both coming in and leaving. Initially it was to view the cottonwoods in the river valley, but it was so nice we decided to picnic lunch there later. The town of Telluride, while lovely in its mountain-nestled situation, is a typical old mountain town now defined by expensive, upscale tourism. We walked the main street and browsed the shops, but stores that offered socks for more than I'd pay for a nice meal for two were not that appealing.
    So, we hit the road again and wound our way through canyons and wide valley floors, rolling hills and steep mountain passes. Some really amazing geological formations in both Colorado and Utah. Finally coming into Moab, we could see the beginnings of the Canyonlands National Park as we descended into the Colorado River valley. Looking forward to seeing that tomorrow.
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  • Day 5 - The Canyonlands

    October 26, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We started the day visiting the Dead Horse Point State Park. This is an area just east of the national park that offers some great views of the Colorado River Valley. One particular point of interest is a high plateau with a narrow entrance of about 90 feet wide, with sheer drops to either side, that overlooks a horseshoe bend in the river. Pretty spectacular views from 2000 feet up.
    We headed to Canyonlands National Park after that. It's just a short drive,but takes awhile as the speed limit is 35mph. Not for winding roads, but I guess to keep traffic slow. Most people obeyed that rule. Anyway, we stopped at the visitor center then headed to the furthest point South in that segment. Canyonlands is divided into three parts, none of which is accessible to the other except for driving many hours. The popular one is Islands in the Sky, where we were. The deep canyons and gorges of the Colorado and Green Rivers, with no bridges, is the reason for the separation.
    The southern point is called Grand View Point. It overlooks the confluence of the Colorado and Green, which at the area, aren't visible due to being deep in their canyons. But the vast desert of multicolored rock formations is visible for probably hundreds of square miles. The La Sal mountains are prominent on the eastern horizon, and from here they're over 40 miles away.
    From here, we drove to the most western part of the Islands in the Sky, to the Upheaval Dome. We hiked the 1.5 mile round trip, somewhat strenuous, and certainly rugged trail to see two viewpoints of what scientists think is a meteor strike from millions of years ago.
    An ambitious day, but very rewarding.
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  • Day 6 - Arches

    October 27, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We got a late start today, not from sleeping in, but from having a late morning required entry reservation into Arches. It was nice to have the leisurely beginning, as yesterday was a long day, and today had that same potential.
    So, a quick drive to the park entrance got us started on our way to the first of many stops. First up was a two mile round trip hike through what they call Park Avenue. These impressive rock formations, while not containing any of the more famous arches, provided a nice introduction to the park. Mainly walking along a dry creek bed, we descended into amazing views.
    This vast park is not quite what I expected, as, unlike Canyonlands, the famous rock structures are often many miles apart, punctuating an undulating, yet barren landscape. Next we headed to the far end of the park, at the Devil's Garden hiking area. There are more of the famous arches here, and also a lot more people as at least one part of the trail is quite easy to trek.
    We then started making our way back to the entrance. We descended into the Fiery Furnace and then went on to view Utah's chosen icon, the Delicate Arch. We were already a bit tired, so we chose to go to a view point instead of taking the moderately strenuous trail to get there. Later, when we were at the Windows area of the park, I snapped an "above" view from about three miles away, an impressive feat for my camera. (Last photo) The Windows area offers the most arches, often tucked away inside the narrow canyons of the rock formations.
    After about 5 miles of hiking, and seeing at least the major highlights, we returned to the hotel. Later, as the sun was setting, the town experienced a power outage, leaving us in the dark for about 2.5 hours. This could've been great for star gazing, but unlike every other night on this trip, it was overcast.
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  • Day 7 - Moab to Bryce Canyon City

    October 28, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    Today we made the 4.5 hour journey from Moab to Bryce Canyon City. It started out drizzly as we made our way North to I-70. We made a short side trip into a canyon not far off the highway to visit some Anasazi petroglyphs. A couple miles in from Thompson Springs are four separate panels,from varying time periods, of historic paintings and carvings. Of course like all these type things, modern man has chosen to deface them, but they are still impressive.
    Back on the highway, we crossed through Capital Reef, then headed south through the wide Otter Creek valley to Bryce Canyon City. With the weather forecast of much colder temperatures and the potential for up to a foot of snow, we chose to continue driving and see Bryce Canyon at the various overlooks along the 18 mile road along its rim.
    Although mostly viewed from the side or just down into the canyon from these overlooks, the array of oranges and other colors, the size and shapes of the rock formations, and the hugeness of the canyon itself, is awe-inspiring.
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  • Day 8 - Anasazi Ruins

    October 29, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Today we're headed east to travel along the western edge of the Grand Staircase - Escalante National Park. We got about a half inch of snow overnight, which wouldn't have kept us from hiking Bryce Canyon, but as it's windy and cold, we made the right decision to do something else today.
    This scenic byway offers some impressive views across wide valleys, and down into steep gorges. In photo 2, while this is an amazing view, what is really cool is that, just barely, you can see the La Sal mountains just over the horizon. These are the same mountains dominating the eastern skyline in Moab. here, they're nearly 100 miles away. In the town of Boulder, we visited the Anasazi State Park Museum. This small attraction has a indoor display that was currently closed for renovations, but the outdoor museum has an interesting excavated pueblo ruins.
    We had lunch in Boulder at the Burr Trail Grill, a simple restaurant offering some very fine food. While they mostly offered sandwich-y type things, it was excellent, probably using fresh meat from the local ranches. While maybe not considered gourmet, it should definitely be on a foodie's stop list.
    Heading back, we were impressed by the golden leaves still remaining on the cottonwoods, even at these elevations. Unfortunately we weren't prepared for shallow river crossings and rock face scrabbling, because there were two trails from one trailhead that took you to a natural bridge and some cliff dwellings. The other trail went up to some petroglyphs. You can see the area from an overlook, (photo4). I did get a close up of the horned sheep petroglyphs, but the Hundred Hands and Shaman drawings aren't clearly visible in that photo (plus you have to know where to look!) A few glimpses of Bryce Canyon from below ended our road trip for the day.
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  • Day 9 - Bryce Canyon Hike

    October 30, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    This morning we headed out to walk into Bryce Canyon. Even at 11 am, it was barely over freezing, but we did it anyway. I won't write much as the pictures really describe the hike better than my words. We hiked over 5 miles into, then out of, the canyon. Amazing!Read more

  • Day 10 - Bryce Canyon City to Kanab

    October 31, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Leaving behind beautiful Bryce Canyon, we headed west and North to take in some more mountain views and then visit a part of Zion National Park that isn't quite as well known as the rest of Zion Canyon.
    The Kolob Canyons is in the northwest corner of the park, without any kind of road connecting the two parts. This high canyonland is punctuated on the east side by 5 high peaks opening onto a wide plateau to the South with views to the mountains on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, over 100 miles away. Beautiful views along an ascending hike offered different glimpses of those different peaks, peering into their box canyons.
    From there, we headed south and then east, skirting Zion's border, and travelling into Northern Arizona, before going north into Kanab. Kanab is an old movie town, and our hotel was host to many Hollywood types from the 30s to the 60s. Home to multiple western movies and tv series of the era, the hotel, while comfortable, has pretty much relied on its quaintness, and probably up until recently, being the only game in town. But there's now a lot of competition with more being built, so I have a feeling they'll need to up their game soon.
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  • Day 11 - Zion National Park

    November 2, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Coming from the east, we entered Zion Canyon through a long road of winding path through sometimes otherworldly terrain. Eventually we got to the hand cut, 1.1 mile long tunnel, that brought us into a side canyon from the main Virgin River canyon. Driving through most of the park is restricted, so we drove to the visitor's center and picked up the bus to the upper end of the park.
    An easy hike from there brought us to a narrow slot with the rock walls rising thousands of feet above us. The sun shone prettily through the golden leaves of the cottonwoods as the river flowed in pristine clearness. Absolutely gorgeous with the background of red cliffs.
    After lunch, we trekked another popular trail to see the middle and upper emerald pools. A 2.5 mile round trip trail took us up and up, through various sandy rocks with various vegetation, including some vast swathes of prickly pear. Tiring, but well worth the work to see both these pools. Heading back, the canyon is so deep and enough time had passed, that where we began in sunshine, we returned in deep shade.
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  • Day 13 - Kanab to Kayenta

    November 3, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    After a day long break in Kanab, resting and recuperating from miles of car travel and walking, we set out toward Kayenta, a small town just south of Monument Valley. On the way, we made a brief stop at the Grand Staircase- Escalante visitor's center, where they had an interesting dinosaur display. Then we crossed over the Colorado River at Glen Canyon toward Page, where we were meeting our tour for the Antelope Slot Canyon. The group ended up being five small buses, with our crazy but excellent driver who took us along the deep sand creek bed from the highway three miles into the canyon entrance. She went as fast as she could, dipping and sliding through all the sand. It was a ride to remember.
    Then we toured the famous slot canyon, which is only about 660 feet long. Pretty fantastic sites along this narrow pathway.
    After this, we got on the road toward our destination. This brought us up and up, and as a weather system moved in, it changed from rainy sprinkles to large flake snow. Visibility was low, but we made it. We tried going to the Navajo National Monument, but we just couldn't see through the blowing snow.
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  • Day 14 - Kayenta to Tuba City

    November 4, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 50 °F

    Another early, and cold, morning as we set out for a 3.5 hour tour of Monument Valley. I was not expecting the thoroughness of the tour, with our Navajo guide taking the time to explain his beliefs, a bit of language, show us some culture, and even sing a blessing for us. This tour of only four of us, the other young couple being from Australia, was really one of the best I've ever been on. Of course we saw the monuments and heard about the movie making, too. The scenery is amazing, but going off road through the back country, we saw petroglyphs and the traditional Navajo home, the hogan (ho-gahn).
    Departing there, we headed toward Tuba City. This included a bit of back tracking, and as it was a lovely clear day, we were able to visit the Navajo National Monument. It's about 8 miles off the road up into the mountains. After a brief hike down into the side of the canyon, we were able to view the ancient cliff dwelling hidden there. These pueblos are from the 13th century, although they figure people lived in this canyon for thousands of years.
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  • Day 15 - Tuba City to Santa Fe

    November 5, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Today we drove some lesser traveled roads on the way to Santa Fe. A lovely, but cold day brought us through Cindy's old stomping ground when she taught on the Navajo Reservation. Alternating between the Navajo and Hopi Reservations, we saw the ancient homelands of the indigenous people, then stopped in Keams Canyon for a snack and to check out the Native Arts store. We drove through Cindy's school in Jeddito. It's changed a bit since then, more housing, athletic fields, a paved road, and an actual bit of a town.
    Then we stopped at the Hubbel Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado. This is a park dedicated to the Hubbel family setting up and successfully running a trading post. The buildings are all still there, and it remains an active trading post for local artists, as well as having a general store. We started at the visitor's center where we were greeted by a Navajo Park Ranger who was fantastic with information and explanations. Apparently the Hubbels relied on treating their clientele fairly, and this particular location became popular with all sides of the trading of goods. What a concept! The actual store is full of native arts and crafts of the highest quality. A really nice quick stop that enhanced our knowledge of the local area.
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  • Santa Fe Day 1

    November 6, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 32 °F

    A cold beginning to what would turn into a bad weather day. We walked to downtown Santa Fe from our hotel and took in some of the architecture as well as looking in some stores and the cathedral. Yet another beautiful, yet highly overpriced, town. The drizzle and cold halted our in town adventures, so we hopped in the car and headed out to see some indigenous sites.
    By the time we arrived at the Tsankawi Prehistoric Sites, a part of the Bandelier National Monument, it was snowing and the wind was rather cold. Needless to say, we didn't spend long there, and didn't get to see the actual ancient pueblo village or petroglyphs, only about a half mile in. However, the ladder in the photo is part of the trail.
    We didn't bring any kind of snow and ice removal equipment, so we headed into the nearest town, Los Alamos. As we were heading into town, traffic leaving town was quite heavy. Apparently the National Laboratory released everyone early due to the weather. So we made our stop, got some lunch to go, and headed back down the mountains and into Santa Fe.
    The snow kept accumulating.
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    Trip end
    November 9, 2024