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  • Day 22

    Temples

    December 30, 2017 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The temple is the most important institution on Bali and the center of religious activities. Though Bali is renowned as the "Land of Ten Thousand Temples," there are actually at least 50,000 scattered over the island. Large or small, simple or elaborately carved, they're everywhere-in houses, courtyards, marketplaces, cemeteries, and rice paddies; on beaches, barren rocks offshore, deserted hilltops, and mountain heights; deep inside caves; within the tangled roots of banyan trees. At most intersections and other dangerous places temples are erected to prevent mishaps. Even in the middle of jungle crossroads, incense burns at small shrines brightened with flowers, wrapped leaves, and gaily colored cloth.

    Each village has its own shrines for community worship, and public temples may be used by anyone to pray to Sanghyang Widhi or any of his manifestations. There are mountain temples (pura bukit), sea temples (pura segara), genealogical temples, temples for the deities of markets and seeds (pura melanting), lake temples, cave temples, hospital temples, bathing temples, temples dedicated to spirits in springs, lakes, trees, and rocks. There are also private temples for those of noble descent, royal "state" temples, and temples for clans (pura dadia) who share a common geneology. Some temples commemorate the deeds of royalty. Numerous important temples-Gunung Kawi, Pura Penulisan-are actually memorial shrines to ancient rulers and their families. 

    Balinese temples are not dedicated to a specific god but to a collection of spirits, both good and bad, who reside in the various shrines. No one knows which spirits are visiting which shrines, so to make sure that only their beneficent aspects appear offerings are placed in all shrines. 

    Unlike the austere, restricted temples of other countries in Asia, the Balinese temple is open and friendly, with children, tourists, and even dogs wandering in and out. During festivals the temple grounds serve as a stage where the worshippers become actors, the priests directors, and the gods and demons invisible but critical spectators. 

    Once every six months in the Balinese calendar, each temple holds an odalan or anniversary celebration. Since there are tens of thousands of temples on the island, an odalan is in progress almost every day somewhere. On the occasion ancestral personages descend from heaven and the temples are alive with fervent activity. For the really big religious ceremonies and rites, temple pavilions are sometimes completely wrapped in cloths and umbel-umbel banners, studded with ceremonial umbrellas. Foods are placed on altars under the eyes of the stone deities, the gods occupying small gold, bronze, or gilded wood figurines (pratima). 

    During festivals the temple courtyard is literally covered in gifts to the gods, with seething throngs of people beneath high tapering white and saffron-colored flags, the air thick with smoke and the clanging of gamelan. Everyone arrives beautifully dressed, presenting the deities with prayer, devotions, food, and music to amuse them during their visit to Earth.

    After one to three days, thoroughly entertained and surfeited with food, the deities return to heaven.
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