Be Speedy Miss González!

The free walking tour’s first stop after the introduction at the gates was the ruins of Tenochtitlan—or more specifically, the Templo Mayor, the most important edifice of the Mexica (later called the Aztecs). For a brief period, this symbol of indigenous power stood just a few steps diagonally across from the colonial Cathedral before being destroyed by the Spanish. We learned that the ancient city was originally built on an island in Lake Texcoco, surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. Early European chroniclers nicknamed it “the Venice of the Americas” because of its canals and causeways. Like Venice, it was partially built on stakes driven into the lakebed, and instead of streets, it had waterways.

When the Spaniards subdued the Mexica—with the help of rival indigenous armies—they began draining the lakes to build their own city. The last remnants of water were drained as late as the 1970s. As a result, modern Mexico City sits on swampy ground, causing many buildings to sink at rates of up to 10 cm per year.

Among the ruins, you can still see the famous Coyolxauhqui Stone, a massive circular carving discovered in 1978. It depicts the dismembered moon goddess Coyolxauhqui, slain by her brother Huitzilopochtli, symbolizing the triumph of the sun over the moon. Her image was even featured on a commemorative 50‑peso coin in the 1980s, making it one of the most recognizable Aztec motifs.

The best view of the ruins is from a rooftop café perched on top of a long, white, slightly lopsided building right across the street. To get there, you enter through the Porrua library on the ground floor and take the elevator up to the terrace, where the café section of El Mayor awaits with coffee, snacks, and full meals at reasonable prices. From above, you can sip a drink while looking straight down at the excavated remains of the Templo Mayor, with the Cathedral looming just behind—a perspective that really drives home the collision of ancient and colonial worlds.Read more