This year I could do with a little less winter and a bit more tropical sun, so I decided to spend the holidays in my childhood home. On my way there, however, I made a little pit stop... Baca selengkapnya
  • Jonny Gzlz

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  • Spanyol Spanyol
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  • First Impressions of Barcelona

    7 Desember 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We approached Barcelona from the sea and as the plane circled over the city, I could make out the infamous Montjuic on one side and the Sagrada Familia on the other. In the haze below, the church resembled the crowned head of a creature emerging from the depths of the earth - it's organic structure challenging the dead-straight lines of the grid that was the city surrounding it. I later learned this part of town was called the "Ensanche" and that Antoni Gaudí thought very little of it. To him, the "misuse of straight lines in urban planning led to a checkered pattern of disheartening monotony".

    If the city could convey such a contrast from the air alone, what contrasts would expect me on the ground? As much as I looked forward to finding the answer to that, when I got to my accommodation I was in such desperate need of sleep that I decided to take a long afternoon nap.

    In the evening, followed the southernmost segment of the Ramblas (Rambla de Santa Mónica) all the way to the Ramblas del Mar - a continuation of the promenade on the sea. It offered quite a few entertainment options, such as restaurants, bars, a movie theater and an aquarium. I was in luck, as today was the last night of the Christmas fair along the port, with food stands, light installations and happy Barcelonians, seemingly without a single worry in the world.
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  • Catalan Christmas Traditions

    9 Desember 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I was surprised to find various Christmas markets around the city and two strange wares in particular caught my eye:

    The figure of man in traditional Catalan garb... with pants around his knees doing his business and a log with a somewhat cartoonish smile wearing a red scarf and a pointy hat.

    Intrigued, I approached one of the market stalls to find out more. Framed by the smiling faces of the logs stacked on the counter in front of her and to her sides, the saleslady was happy to explain:

    The logs are known as "el tío" (which can be translated to uncle or dude) that is placed in the family home a few days before Christmas. Children feed them the day's leftovers every evening before going to bed. When the 24th comes around, the whole family gathers around the log and starts beating it with a stick to stimulate the log's bowel movements, which appear in the form of gifts and sweets. Now, the beating doesn't happen haphazardly of course, but to the rhythm of a song quite straightforwardly asking the tío to poop nougat confections (turrones) and other goodies.

    "Caga tió
    Caga torrons
    avellanes i pinyons
    no caguis arengades
    que són massa salades
    caga torrons
    fartons i pinyons."

    As to the figurine of the man depositing a gift of his own, he is known as the "Caganer" and is usually placed somewhere in the nativity scene, mostly tucked away in a corner, behind a bush or somewhere else deemed appropriate for attending nature's call. Apparently, hiding a Caganer somewhere in the nativity scene ensures fertile farming soil for the year to come and is definitely a fun detail to look for.

    The traditional variant is that of a Catalan peasant dressed in red, black and white - but nowadays all kinds of celebrities, stars, political and religious personages can be found doing their business in some inconspicuous corner of a nativity scene.
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  • Casa Lleòn - not Gaudí
    Detail Casa LleóCasa Batlló - GaudiCasa Millá - GaudíDo these look familiar? Maybe like storm troopers?View from one of the towers of the Sagrada FamiliaInside the Sagrada Familia

    Scratching the Surface of Modernism

    9 Desember 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Since I ended up with my nose in a book in a warm (and dry) tapas bar instead of making it all about Gaudí the day I went to Parc Güell, I decided to give it another try today in the hopes that the weather forecast was accurate.

    This time I joined a free walking tour (de facto pay-what-you-want) on Modernism starting at Plaza Catalunya, making stops at Casa Batllò, Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Monet and Casa Millá to get an overview of the Modernist movement in Barcelona before heading to the Sagrada Familia. The tour didn't include entry to the church, but I had tickets to go in later that week.

    Even if you're bored of western European churches (since so many of them are so similar), the Sagrada Familia definitely is one you shouldn't miss out on.

    Stepping into the church, it truly felt like stepping into a forest of fossilized prehistoric trees, the pillars transitioning into a canopy of palm leaves and light in unreachable heights. Luckily, I went relatively early in the off-season, meaning I was able to take everything in without having to deal with massive, loud crowds dripping sweat from the singeing Barcelona sun. This also meant there was an awed, hushed silence - with only soft whispers that might just as well be the wind moving softly through the leaves.

    There are so many details to discover, it's well worth while staying for a bit - even if it just to sit on the benches and see how the color changes with the light of day.
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  • The Sempere bookstore - which is actually a glove shopNow just imagine this packed to the ceiling with books instead of gloves 😅El Qatr Gats - where the literary society would meet.Cable car from the beach to Montjuic - also an important scene in the books.Gloomy, wet and atmospheric. Perfect for today's explorations.The inconspicuous archway...And the alleyway leading away from Las Ramblas.

    Chasing the Shadow of the Wind

    10 Desember 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Ever since devouring Carlos Ruiz Zafón's cycle of four novels revolving around the Cemetery of Forgotten Books, I've wanted to make a tour of the locations. Years ago, I had purchased a small guide book with several routes and finally the day had come to put it to use.

    My hostel was in the Gothic Quarter and thus the perfect starting point to immerse myself in the world of Daniel Sempere and Julián Carax. The gloomy and wet weather actually helped set the right mood as I roamed the city searching for the Sempere bookstore (in reality a glove shop) and the infamous 4 Gats Restaurant.

    Was that Fermín lurking in the shadows under the Pont de Bisbe? Did I catch a glimpse of Nuria Monfort behind one of the curtained windows of Plaza de San Felipe Neri? (Fun detail: the name was actually corrected to Plaza Nuria Monfort by a grafitti artist - unfortunately this photo was lost in the Great Cellphone Malfunctioning and couldn't be recovered).

    Finally, the book guided me through an inconspicuous archway off the Ramblas, through a sketchy alley to a barren lot surrounded by houses with crumbling facades. Feeling a bit uneasy, I was about to turn on my heel to skedaddle right back to the lively main street where Moroccans were celebrating their victory in today's World Cup Soccer match with a parade of fireworks, music and dancing.

    But then a group of people turned the corner, planted itself right at the fence of the barren lot and as the sounds of the celebration seemed to fade further into the silence of this gloomy neighborhood, one of them opened a book, reading the passage where Daniel Sempere was guided by his father through that very same archway and sketchy alley to the Cemetery of Forgotten Books:

    "Las calles aún languidecían entre neblinas y serenos cuando salimos al portal. Las
    farolas de las Ramblas dibujaban una avenida de vapor, parpadeando al tiempo que la
    ciudad se desperezaba y se desprendía de su disfraz de acuarela. Al llegar a la calle Arco
    del Teatro nos aventuramos camino del Raval bajo la arcada que prometía una bóveda de
    bruma azul. Seguí a mi padre a través de aquel camino angosto, más cicatriz que calle,
    hasta que el reluz de la Rambla se perdió a nuestras espaldas. La claridad del amanecer se filtraba desde balcones y cornisas en soplos de luz sesgada que no llegaban a rozar el suelo.
    Finalmente, mi padre se detuvo frente a un portón de madera labrada ennegrecido por el tiempo y la humedad. Frente a nosotros se alzaba lo que me pareció el cadáver abandonado de un palacio, o un museo de ecos y sombras."
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