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  • Ely; the Eel Trail, part 1

    July 19, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Ely is a cathedral city based in the Fens and about 14 miles north east of Cambridge; the Fens are a naturally marshy coastal plain in eastern England of which most is only a few metres above sea level - the city is built on an "island" of Kimmeridge Clay making it the highest part of the Fenland area. The River Great Ouse runs through Ely on its way north; the River Cam joins this a little further south at Pope's Corner, Little Thetford. Ely’s name relates to a time when the city was surrounded by marsh and its main trade was in eels - eels are still caught in the River Ouse.

    We follow "The Eel Trail" and start at Oliver Cromwell's House (he lived in Ely between 1638 and 1646); this was formerly St Mary's Vicarage and is now the Tourist Information Centre. We pass St Mary's Church and opposite the Bishop's Palace on Palace Green is the "Cannon on the Green"; this is cannon was captured during the Crimean War at the Siege of Sevastopol and presented to the people of Ely by Queen Victoria in 1860 as a war memorial.

    Just behind the cannon is Ely Cathedral; this has its origins as an Abbey founded in 672 and the present building dates back to 1083. Known as the "ship of the Fens" it is visible over much of local area as this is so flat. There are lovely views as we walk around it and then go inside to enjoy the cathedral itself; there is a contemporary piece of work known as "The Way of Life" (2001) and the nave is magnificent.

    A little up the road is the 14th century Ely Porta or Walpole's Gate; this was once the main entrance to Ely Monastery and is now part of the King's School, housing its library now; King's School is an independent public boarding school founded in 970 AD, making it one of the oldest schools in the world.

    We walk through Ely Park and have a magnificent view of the Cathedral before reaching the lovely Jubilee Gardens; there is a large eel sculpture as well as an 8 metre long eel mosaic made from shards of pottery uncovered by Time Team archaeologists working on the excavations in advance of the creation of the Gardens. The river is directly in front of us as we reach Quayside.
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