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Jocelyn Cooper
Jocelyn Cooper

Jocelyn Cooper

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  • Poland

    Witsbergers Never Give Up!

    16 augusti, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today was a day. After packing up, we had breakfast in and had extra time before our flight so did some final shopping on the streets of Gdańsk before heading back to pick up our bags. We even got in a final stop at Żabka - a popular and ubiquitous store in Poland - sort of like 7-11 and the only available grocery option on Sundays. As we loaded up in our Bolt, we got the first notification that our flight was delayed. After making it through airport security, we had a McD’s lunch and got two more flight delays. We try to avoid connections at all cost but Poland doesn’t have a lot of options to Heathrow and now our connection was set to leave Munich about the same as we were set to arrive. When we got to Munich, we missed our connection by about 12 minutes and were automatically rebooked on flights to Frankfurt and then LHR at 6am tomorrow morning. We knew there were 2 more flights to LHR but, as it turned out, over 1,000 other people also missed their connections and we were told nothing could be done. While Joce joined the queue in one terminal with H, I took G and E and looked for a service desk with a shorter line in another terminal while also trying to rebook through the app while on hold for the Lufthansa hotline. In the end, Joce waited 90 minutes and never got to the front of the line but I was able to get her and H on a 10pm flight to LHR leaving E, G and me to fly to Zurich and then to LHR tomorrow. While awaiting Joce and H to join us from the other terminal, I stalked the gate attendant on a late flight to Frankfurt that connected to Heathrow to see if I could get on standby. It was then that I was informed that there was a 1830 flight direct to LHR with last minute seats for all of us but since it was 1820, I wouldn’t be able to make it. After some frantic begging, the gate agent called over and the 1830 flight was delayed so she told me to run… to another terminal, via a train and through passport security. Fortunately, this is when Jocelyn arrived (as she had all 5 passports) and was slightly puzzled when I started yelling to run. Hauling 5 backpacks and 5 overfilled carryons, we ran up 3 floors, down 2, took a train, cut in front of passport security line, then through the terminal… and made it. It was touch and go while they rebooked us for the 4th time at the gate and then we finally made it through as the last group only to find the door to the gangway closed and locked. We pounded on the door and finally an agent came down and we got on. As it turns out, there were at least 11 empty seats. We were scattered through the plane but, after take-off, all joined up in a fully open row. Certainly a stressful, albeit exciting, end to a wonderful trip. Before we left, we got a lot of questions from friends about ‘why Poland’ but it’s clear that anyone that asks that has never been. It was a beautiful week and a beautiful country. Still, it will be nice to see our own beds and Stevie tonight.Läs mer

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  • Poland
    WW2 Museum

    Last day in Poland

    15 augusti, Polen ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    We continued the lazy morning and breakfast in plan and then headed out for the day. We read that there was a terrific WWII museum here and it did not disappoint. Phenomenal. The building was massive and definitely built for the purpose of what was inside. It was a little tricky to figure out the way inside, but once we did, we were blown away. By this point we all have a deeper understanding of the events between WWI and II (by no means comprehensive, still learning new things at every turn), but this place was next level. Every room was basically like an art exhibition, each room different, and everything was in English which was very helpful. Gdańsk (Danzig) was the starting point for WWII, and we could see Westerplatte from the beach later in the day. We learned so much and I think that the kids really appreciated the difference between the American perspective versus the European perspective, especially from Poland, as they (the Jewish Poles and less so the Poles in general), really suffered the worst horrors it seems. We could have stayed there all day, but had promised to check out another beach Breźezko, that had better swimming conditions today. We Übered down to the beach, grabbed a couple of zapiekankas and found a spot along the crowded sand, luckily with the bleachers from the sand football pitch to shade us. Gideon dug a fantastic sand lounge space with a compartment for his feet and arm rests, and E and I finished our books. We ended the day playing catch/volleyball in the 70 degree water (thankfully only up to my upper thigh even 50m from shore). These moments are the best ones. I love that at dinner tonight, Elliot was asking G what he wanted to talk about rather than be on her phone. I love that Hudson walked home hand in hand with E and G from our last dinner here. I love our crew so much and am so thankful for the time that we get to be away and just focus on each other and learn so many new things. Poland has been better than I had hoped and very good to us. However, we miss our beds and our sweet pup and can’t wait to be home tomorrow!Läs mer

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  • Poland

    Beach Day!

    14 augusti, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We slept in this morning before the boys cooked breakfast. It was going to be another beautiful day. We couldn’t have been much more fortunate with the weather. Upper 70’s and full sun with low humidity and no wind. We did some early day souvenir shopping to get our amber fix and then walked to a nearby mall to pick up some cheap beach towels. After electing to take an Uber to the beach (we didn’t realize it was 25 minutes away from central Gdańsk) as the train was going to take twice as long, we got dropped off in front of a hotel and then walked through to reach the boardwalk. The beach was absolutely packed but we had read on ChatGPT where we could find beach chairs and umbrellas for rent. There were beach restaurants around, and late in the afternoon, we all ate on the sand. The boys (with some help from Elliot) contributed to a big sand hole on the beach. Mom, Dad and E enjoyed reading. The water was cool but quickly adjusted to, especially on a sunny day. After 5 hours, we decided to make our way back and ordered dinner in after everyone showered. It was a great day with no schedule and we all soaked up the sun. Should sleep well tonight.Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Castle Square WarsawNeptune G'dansk

    Gdańsk

    13 augusti, Polen ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Late morning train after a fab few days in Warsaw. Train was a little late but first class was worth it. We arrived in Gdańsk, which is a gorgeous little town along the Baltic Sea. There is definitely Dutch influence that you can see in the architecture and we were told that they traded through this region. We walked to our flat, which is on Mariaka Street, one on the prettiest streets in town, lined with coffee spots and cute restaurants. There is a huge artisan fair in town until Sunday, so we dropped our bags and went out exploring. Amber is a huge deal here (deposits in the Baltic Sea, historical trading, lots of jewelry amd gifts now). E got some really beautiful butterfly earrings, while the boys chose geodes and obsidian. We ate, saw the famous Neptune statue, and just walked around on a gorgeous night. Back at the flat with music playing outside, movie night inside:)Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Old town square with Royal Castle
    1Electrownia PowisleOld Town Castle SquareNew Town Market SquareWarsaw Uprising MemorialPalace of Culture and ScienceTomb of the Unknown SoliderMermaid symbol of WarsawMain Street where our flat is located

    Chopin and Food Tour in Warszawa

    12 augusti, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We finally got to sleep in this morning but set an alarm for our entry into Chopin’s Museum. We took a Bolt to the museum (we are staying in central Old Town) and got in with no waiting. The museum had many artifacts from Chopin’s life, including his last piano. He was born about an hour outside of Warsaw and trained here before spending much of his later years in France before dying at 39. We got to hear a lot of his music as well and the kids were good. It was a beautiful building. Afterwards, we walked to the nearby Electrownia
    Powisle - a converted power plant that has been turned into a food hall and small mall. We had delicious Mexican food (can’t get it in the UK) before walking back to our flat. After a short break, we headed back out to the nearby Warsaw Uprising Monument (featured in the recent movie, The Big Pain, largely set in and around Warsaw). It was an absolutely gorgeous day (we couldn’t have had much nicer weather on this trip) but after getting some cash (Złotny), we made our way to the downtown of Warsaw for our scheduled (free) food tour. We started at the controversial Palace of Culture and Science - it was beautiful and imposing (and, apparently, the most famous building in Poland) but as it was a ‘gift’ from Stalin after the war, its seen by some as an oppressive symbol in the country. It was a beautiful building though and has a lot of museums and theatres inside with a viewpoint at the top. Unfortunately, we won’t get to go inside but glad we got to see a different part of the city. Our guide (from the Gdansk area, next city on our trip) showed us the first McDonald’s and explained how big of a deal McD’s is to Poles and how special it was the day they opened, with 40k people showing up for the opening. Our first stop was for the Polish street food ‘zapiekanka’ - basically a bagette style pizza sandwich (minus the tomato sauce) - almost like a Chicago hot dog with cheese and full toppings minus the sausage on a toasted bun. It was absolutely delicious (and cost about £3). Lussi’s was apparently the original and most famous stand in the city. We then go to try local pickles, snacks, coffee, a stop at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and a milk bar. The latter is a government subsidized restaurant that serves cheap and fast food (like pierogis and cold beetroot soup - which was surprisingly tasty but enormous and quite the pink color with a strong dill flavor). It was a beautiful night to eat outside and we couldn’t eat the entire $20 meal before moving on to the local chocolate shop and finishing the night with donuts. On our way home, we stopped by the Warsaw mermaid, believed to be the namesake of Warsaw (she being named Sawa and had children with a local fisherman name Wars). After packing our finally dried laundry, we watched the end of the movie Premium Rush before bedtime. We will be sad to leave Warsaw behind so quickly tomorrow. It’s such a beautiful city - given that 90% was destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt in the 50’s, I guess that makes sense - but we didn’t realize how clean and safe it would be.    Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Warsaw BarbicanChopin Monument in Royal Baths ParkSigismund's ColumnArchcathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist

    Heading to Warsaw

    11 augusti, Polen ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Up early for an 821 train to Warsaw. Comfy train with a private car in first class (the only first class these kids see lol) plus one completely silent older polish woman. Made it to Warsaw by 11. Bought tickets for the tram to our place and hopped on with 5 carryons, backpacks and the leftover food we had. Tige turned around to validate the tickets and the conductor was blocking his path. He then proceeds to fine us 78 pounds for not validating our tickets. Nothing that could be done but pay and ride. We stashed our luggage at a hotel arranged by our host and headed to our tour of the Old Town. Our guide was actually a British ex-pat and we were the only family there. It was a great intro to Warsaw. Warsaw was leveled by the Nazis in 1945 at the end of the war after the Warsaw Uprising, and only the Presidential Palace and a fancy hotel survived. They went from a population of 1.3 million to 160k after the war. They rebuilt the city to be a replica of what it was before. As a visitor you don’t know the difference. It is beautiful and clean (like elsewhere in Poland) and vibrant.

    Afterwards we checked into our apartment- 4 bedrooms right off of the castle square and headed to eat (Polish) before venturing out again. We headed to an incredible Park called the Royal Baths, which is about 1/5 the size of Central Park but incredibly beautiful. Solid playground, beautiful gardens and cute red squirrels, one that would come take nuts from the kids. So sweet!

    After exploring the park we headed back, grabbed ice cream and came back to settle in for our first night here. Lots of sweet conversations and snuggles to end the night, which is the best part of holidays.    Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Outside of Schindler's Factory

    Schindler and Arcade

    10 augusti, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    After yesterday, we took a small step down and booked a guided tour as Oskar Schindler’s factory. The tour was a little rushed but took us through 3 stories of the factory detailing the start of German occupation of Krakow in 1941 and ending in Schindler’s actual office with details about the end of the war. The ‘liquidation’ of the Krakow ghetto was certainly upsetting but, after yesterday, the kids understood what that meant. It was also interesting to learn how Schindler was a complicated character that started out taking advantage of the Jews that worked for him but ended up risking himself to save nearly 1200. Joce and I haven’t watched the movie in quite a while but will have to revisit it soon. It was a sunny and warm day and we stopped by a very odd outdoor flea market on the way back from the train. It had some interesting items but we decided best not to make any offers. We then made our way to a local Polish restaurant for a late lunch but were turned away for lack of reservation. Instead, we wandered around and stumbled upon a Krakow street food stand and had some delicious (and very cheap) plaki (potato pancakes). At lunch, we told the kids our plan for the rest of the day - an arcade museum. We visited our first one in Berlin a couple years ago and had a blast so we put it on our list when we found out that they had one here. The Krakow Arcade Museum was basically an arcade with ‘free’ games from when we were kids. Pay the entry fee and we could stay as long as we wanted (which turned into 4 hours). It was hot but we all had a lot of fun and relived some childhood memories. After dropping off the rental car, we came home for showers and sandwiches with another episode of Clarkson’s Farm. Our last day in Krakow was certainly a good one and it was a beautiful city. Tomorrow morning we have an early train to our next destination.Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Salt chandelier3

    Salt and Hard Truths

    9 augusti, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    If you would have asked us 5 years ago about how much fun we could have in a salt mine we would have both said probably zero. So wrong! After a super fun time in Hallstatt 2 years ago we decided to check out the Wieliczka salt mine just outside of Krakow. It was superb! Not the largest in the world but one of the oldest. We saw about 1% of it and walked for 3 hours and were 130m below the ground. They started mining it in the 1300s and stopped in 1996. Great tour guide and impressive operation. One of the things that made it special was that there was so much art within. Carved into walls and intermixed with old marks from hand tools from a long time ago. There were modern spaces for weddings and events (even football matches played there). The most beautiful part was a chapel/cathedral that was entirely carved from salt. Chandeliers of pure salt, beautiful pictographs of stories of Jesus and of course John Paul II, who was so important here. Copernicus (also Polish) had a beautiful sculpture also. We watched a light show over a salt lake set to Chopin (also Polish). We left the site and tried to grab lunch (burgers). After a bit of a wait we asked to takeaway because we were already late for Auschwitz-Birkenau tour. We did make it in time (more positive reinforcement for a family weakness of perpetual lateness).

    Leading up to this we have been trying to talk to the kids about the Holocaust because we think that it is an important thing to learn about, but also worried about their ages. Elliot and G to a lesser extent have already learned about this in school, but not H.

    The tour started in Auschwitz I and then we took a bus to Birkenau about 3 km away. 1,100,000 people were killed at these death camps alone. Gideon and Elliot grasped it more having studied it and we were worried that Hudson wouldn’t really understand, but he felt it deeply as well. We saw the rooms, gas chambers, and crematoriums. We saw the shoes and glasses and life left behind, and walked the route from the train to the gas chamber at Birkenau. It was a heavy day with a lot of evidence to make you feel the scope of the tragedy, but certainly worth the visit. This place is so beautiful but can’t escape many hard parts of history.

    We came home and picked up a super delicious Indian takeout and watched Clarkson’s Farm, which if you have access you should totally watch. A British gem that was exactly what we needed.    Läs mer

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  • Poland
    Outside St. Mary's Basilica
    Overlooking Vistula RiverInside the Dragon's Den caveSt. Mary's BasilicaTown hall tower with rubber band gunsInside St. Marys1Brothers underneath the warning knife of thievesKrakus Mound

    Beautiful Kraków

    8 augusti, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After a good night’s sleep, we had breakfast in our very nice flat before the 10 minute walk to the middle of Old Town Kraków. It was a beautiful morning (leading to a beautiful day) and we met our free tour guide at St. Mary’s Basilica. We joined a group of about 20 and were led around Old Town by a local. We learned about Kraków’s history and enjoyed walking around its streets. We ended at the Wawel Castle and then left via the Dragon’s Den, an underground cave right underneath the castle to find the flame throwing dragon statue at the end. Legend has that a dragon used to haunt the castle but was outsmarted and killed by a shoemaker after all the knights failed. Dragons are sold everywhere in Kraków and, as the former capital, are an important part of Poland’s folklore. After some pics with the dragon and Vistula River, we found some shade before planning our lunch at a milk bar. Unfortunately, we picked a popular one that had a very long line when we arrived so picked a polish place recommended by our guide and had a delicious lunch of soups and kielbasa. We made our way back to the historical large market by the basilica and did some window shopping. We then got tickets to go inside the Basilica. Very colorful inside, it was unique compared to the many churches we have visited. We also enjoyed sitting down and taking a break after a full day. From the basilica, we decided to take the metro to Krakus Mound. The legendary burial place of mythical King Krakus (that founded Krakow), it was essentially a giant hill 6km outside of old town that overlooked the entire city. It was a beautiful view and we were surprised to see that over a 100 people joined us as sunset approached. As the day wore down, Jocelyn found a nearby pizza place (though it was in quite a sketchy area next to the train tracks) and we made our way home for a delicious dinner while watching Clarkson’s Farm on Prime Video (an absolute favorite of the kids). A full and beautiful day in a beautiful city. Tomorrow will be a little more somber.Läs mer

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  • Poland

    Hello Kraków

    7 augusti, Polen ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Today we were up at 430 to head to the airport for an early flight. Quick flight and stop in Frankfurt (and a couple of legit frankfurters for the boys) and then flight to Krakow. After a very stinky Bolt ride we found our place. Small but really nice apartment that is very walkable to the old town and shops. We picked up supplies for the apartment and then headed to dinner at Mirror Bistro, a spot known for famous pierogis. They hand made the savory and then sweet dumplings along with some super delicious soup- traditional broth and an excellent traditional sour soup with sausage. I think we prefer the Americanized pan fried version over the boiled, but everything was flavorful and the service was great.

    Headed to bed now, but excited to go on a tour and start exploring tomorrow!    Läs mer

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  • Türkiye
    1
    1Love ValleyLove Valley

    Balloon ride of a lifetime!

    29 maj, Turkiet ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    We made it! After booking a last minute balloon ride through a third party, we were anxious about the timing being early enough with a 9:45am flight out of an airport an hour from Göreme. We packed up last night and left our bags in reception for our 4:55 pickup. A short drive to the take-off site and we noted balloons already in the air. It was very exciting to know we were a go. We arrived as they were laying out the balloon so we got to see it go up before a hurried boarding process as we started to lift off. We got a basket segment to ourselves (20 total passengers) and had amazing weather as we floated into the skies. I was certainly a little scared in the beginning as we reached upwards of 300m high but it was so smooth and beautiful, it was hard to stop smiling. Our segment stayed aiming forward for almost the entire trip. We went right over the fairy chimney rock formations and we even got to drop down into Love Valley (the phallic stones made the kids giggle) and float just over the rocks. An amazing ride that we will never forget. A smooth touchdown (after making it to the ground, they floated the basket directly onto a trailer before strapping down, pretty cool) and champagne toast later, we were taken directly back to hotel (about 20 minutes away) where our airport van was already loaded and waiting for us. We had time for some coffee before takeoff to Istanbul where we will have some time before our flight to Heathrow. A beautiful and memorable way to end our Türkiye trip.Läs mer

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  • Türkiye
    Uçhisar Kalesi (Castle)
    Uçhisar KalesiFrom Uçhisar Kalesi looking at Rose Valley that we hiked yesterdayTop of Uçhisar KalesiFlaming pottery kebap

    Last night in Cappadocia

    28 maj, Turkiet ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    We found out that our rescheduled balloon ride for today was canceled yesterday at around 4 pm. We slept in but before bed we made a plan to explore a few more places. After breakfast we were talking to the hotel owner and he knew of course that the balloons were canceled. He encouraged us to go for another spot first thing and that he would arrange our airport transfer for no charge bc of slight issues on the drive out. We found one place that could give us 5 spots. After this was arranged, we took a taxi to a nearby village of Uçhisar to see the Uçhisar kalesi (castle). This is the highest spot in Cappadocia and the castle was impressively preserved and incredibly tall. You explore about 8 stories of different rooms and see where water and food were stored. The castle was used as a safe place when invasions occurred.

    We grabbed a Döner kebab and took a taxi to the Göreme open air museum. We shopped a little and then looked at the cave buildings from a distance.

    We had planned to finish on a high with another Hamam visit in light of the balloon letdown and just kept our appointments (which was such an arm twist). We walked back from the museum to Deep Cappadocia, a local Turkish bath/Hamam. We booked a 60 min massage and Hamam (scrub and bubble massage) for everyone. This place wasn’t as fancy as the first, but still received rave reviews. I fear that they re ruined at 8,10,13 and will expect spa life going forward. No more of us going to a spa while the stay at the kids club.

    After that we went to a wood fired bbq restaurant and had a delicious last dinner here. We walked home, packed our suitcases and backpacks, and if all goes well in the am we will have flown in the balloon and have made our flight to Istanbul!    Läs mer

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  • Türkiye
    2The commoner side of the White ChurchBasilica of the White ChurchTige in front of nunnery

    Balloon:( and epic hike

    27 maj, Turkiet ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today was supposed to be our balloon day and is largely the reason to visit this area. We were collected at 350 and drove to the Royal Balloon center for breakfast and sent to our launch site. The federal aviation association makes the final call about whether we take off or not, and despite perfect ground conditions, it was a no go. We were bummed and went back to the hotel and slept for a bit before second breakfast. After we ate we walked to the center of town to meet Mehmet, the guide we had hired for a 7 hour hike for the day. Kids were worried that it would be too long, but it ended up being perfect. Mehmet took us on an amazing, if not quite difficult hike with lots of climbing and exploring. The unusual landscape is made up of volcanic rock shaped by wind and water long ago. The cave houses have changed purposes over the years with most starting as monasteries with incredible chapels and rooms that were hand carved by the monks themselves in the 6th century. The last monks left the cave houses in 1925. The White Church was so beautiful and intricate inside, and one of the small chapels had incredible frescoes from the 11th century. The final building we saw was an 8 story nunnery with special rooms to feed animals and their troughs were even at different heights based on the individual animals. Incredible!Uses changed over time, and also included pigeon houses. The farmers depended on the droppings for fertilizer for crops. He was a fun guide and really engaged the kids and gave many of his own opinions on the world:) we trekked back into town right at 5 pm exhausted, dusty and a little bit sunburned. We rested for an hour and headed out for dinner. We sat out on a terrace and watched the sun set over Göreme. Chilly afterward but worth it. It was a day well spent and like most places like this, the pictures do not do it justice.Läs mer

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  • Türkiye

    Cappadocia

    26 maj, Turkiet ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Up early with our birthday boy for a chocolate croissant and happy birthday candle and then off to catch a car to the airport at 8am. Unfortunately, our van reservation didn’t show but Uber was nearby so only cost us 20 minutes. After getting to the airport, kids got some BK breakfast before our 75 min flight to Kayseri and, after luggage, a 75 minute van ride (with a sleepy driver that made things interesting) before being dropped off at Vineyard Cave Hotel for our 3 day stay in Göreme (a city in the middle of the area called Cappadocia). After 1400 check-in (thankfully the owner let us in early) we got to see our first cave hotel. They are all over the valley and built inside the rock walls. Very cool. We finally got to celebrate Hudson’s birthday with a few gifts brought from home (though most waiting for him in the UK) before meeting the owner and getting recommendations for the area. We then made a small hike through the main area of town and the shops and then up to Sunset Point. Amazing views over the surrounding area and a peek at what we will see tomorrow. Clouds overhead looked menacing but Elliot’s pleas to go back down were ignore as the weather was blowing the other way. After some great pics, apologies were made after the sky opened up and drenched us with pelting cold ice. Wet and cold, we made our way down and found a burger place in town (needed to switch up from Turkish food) and had a yummy dinner. On the way back, we scheduled a hiking tour guide for 7 hours tomorrow and then bought a few small things in the gift shop before buying some groceries for our hike tomorrow. Back home for showers and earlier bedtime as we have to get up at 3:30 tomorrow.Läs mer

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  • Türkiye
    Overlooking Bosphorus
    Hagia Sophia behind usOn Galata Bridge

    Last day in Istanbul

    25 maj, Turkiet ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Today was a much slower day than yesterday. We were beat after walking all day and eating late, so we slept in a little and went out for a late lunch down the street. Good food but chilly on the rooftop terrace. As we were heading down the owner of the restaurant also owned a rug shop (they are everywhere so you need to look a bit off the main streets for cheaper and better quality rugs. I have been looking for a Kilim rug (handwoven flat wool rug with natural dye) after seeing one I liked in the bazaar yesterday. The best made Turkish rugs can last for decades. They clean and repair them. There was one in the store that was 80 years old, which is crazy. We bought 2 sizes and headed out for the day. We took a ferry to Asia for the day. Definitely a sleepier part of the city and we really just wandered in and out of shops. We definitely preferred the liveliness of the European side. We have taken a lot of public transport together, but none have been as confusing as trying to get the ferry tickets back. We thought we had enough and it let G through but none of the rest of us. I left to try to buy more (impossible), then Tige had to leave kids on both sides of turnstiles to try to help (still impossible:). After all of that you could tap in. So frustrating!

    Back to the other side and we had dinner at the Old Ottoman Restaurant and with full bellies went home to shower and pack before our early pickup for the flight to Cappadocia.    Läs mer

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  • Türkiye
    Waiting outside Hippodrome
    Inside Blue MosqueOutside Blue MosqueInside Hagia SofiaHagia SofiaBasilica CisternGrand BazaarOverlooking the Grand BazaarOutside Hagia SofiaOutside Blue Mosque

    Walking tour

    24 maj, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We had another amazing day of weather. It was tough to wake up this morning so we got some pastries around the corner on the way to our private tour guide for the day. Just a 5 minute walk away, we met him in the Hippodrome - which has two Egyptian obelisks that used to sit in the middle of a huge horse track. They were moved by ship and part of one was lost at sea. Next to the Hippodrome was the Blue Mosque - so named because of the blue tiles inside. It was a beautiful mosque and, at the time of its building 500 years ago, it rivalled the most important mosque in the world in Mecca. Domes became very important to Islam and this dome was the largest in the world at the time. Just across from the Blue Mosque was the Haggia Sofia. Now open in the upper levels as a museum (and, so, not free like the Blue Mosque) the HS is a converted cathedral that was built before Islam existed 1500 years ago. It was converted to a mosque in the early 1900s and still had mosaics of Jesus and the Virgin Mary intact. Though less pretty, I thought it was even more special given its age. Also with largest dome of its time, it stood as an example for many later cathedrals like St. Peter’s in the Vatican City. On our way out, we met one of the many, many cats in Istanbul (though he wasn’t keen on being petted). After a stop for some Turkish tea, baclava and Turkish delights, we went to the Basilica Cistern. The largest known cistern in Istanbul, it apparently had enough water for 500,000 for one year - holding water from Roman aqueducts stretching 30 miles. It was enormous. The cool temperatures and lighting made it feel even larger and the Medusa head bases on two of the columns were thought just to be used as filler to hold up the roof. From the cistern, we walked to the Grand Bazaar. At nearly a mile long, over 60 streets, it was overwhelming. Our tour guide took us to a secret spot for some photos overlooking the roof (and some shopping for Jocelyn) but we decided not to buy anything in the Bazaar (and unfortunately it’s closed tomorrow) before we made our way to the new side of town across the Golden Horn. We walked through a hookah bar (or ‘hubbly bubbly’ as our guide called it) and finished with snacks and drinks at local bar. After a full day, we made our way back past the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque and had a delicious and well earned dinner near our stay. After over 10 miles, we all got to shower before bed.Läs mer

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  • Türkiye

    Day 1 in Istanbul

    23 maj, Turkiet ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We arrived in Istanbul at around 1230am this morning and took a car to our apartment in Sultanamet, which is a popular first spot to land on the European side of Istanbul. We had to get cash for the driver and the kids enjoy the stack of 10k Lire that we got for £200! We got our sleepy kiddos into bed, grabbed water (markets open until 3 am here which is crazy when you live in the UK where stores close at 4 p on Sundays. I didn’t fall asleep until 4 and we let everyone sleep in. We headed out to explore around noon and ended up having a delicious lunch at Mavi Döner. Tige and I shared a chicken and beef kebab plates, H had a beef pita and E had a beef wrap called a Durum. G was boring and had chicken and fries. Everything was super flavorful and just what we needed. The city is huge from a footprint and a citizen standpoint, twice the population of NYC and London. We walked through the city for about 40 minutes until we came to the Suleymaniye Mosque which was built in the 16th century- supposed to be one of the most beautiful of the >3000 here in Istanbul. We covered up and went inside. It was so beautiful and a student volunteer sat with us and talked about the mosque and Islam itself. Good for the kids to hear about other cultures and religions. He was super kind and informative. We headed from there about a 20 min walk to our Turkish bath spot called the Zeyrek Çinili Hamam. Fancy and beautiful. Highly recommended if you are ever in Istanbul and they will allow kids also which not all hamams do. The boys went off with Tige to the men’s area and Elliot and I went to the women’s. My bath partner was an absolute treat to hang with! We changed into towels and disposable bikinis and went for the hot treatment- you sit on a hot marble floor and sweat out all of the toxins for 15-20 min and then our lovely guides (2 women) would come and rinse you with water and then did a full body exfoliation. Then we moved to a hot marble platform and they did a super cool bubble treatment and massage. I can’t quite describe the sensation of being covered head to toe in small bubbles, but the whole experience was heaven! Next they rinse you and wash your hair, wrap you up and you chill in a lounge area. 10/10 for all of us. Elliot said it was the best start to a trip ever!

    We left the bath and walked across the golden horn body of water that divides the European side. We had booked a sunset cruise on the Bosphorus river (connects the Mediterranean to the Black Sea), cruising between Europe and Asia. We ate fresh fruit and had tea, and it was chilly in the end.

    We ubered near home and after a weird initial sit down at what turned out to be a cafeteria, we found our spot at a local small place (3 tables inside, 8 outside) where the delightful owner ran around taking care of everything. We had delicious hummus, kebabs, a meatball dish called kofte, and local pasta:) We finished with tea and baklava (which I mistakenly thought originated in Greece, but it turns out really the Ottomans). 12,000 steps and looking forward to our big walking tour tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates
    Worlds largest hand woven carpetQasr Al Watan palaceQasr Al WatanCorniche Beach

    Last Day in UAE

    19 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Today was our biggest day out in Abu Dhabi. We started out the day with a morning visit to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. It was stunning! The entire mosque was made out of marble and I think we needed sunglasses for the mosque as well as the sun. The detail inside was even more beautiful. There were columns with inlaid marble flowers, beautiful chandeliers and in the women’s prayer hall the walls were covered with marble flowers done in a relief style. Pictures don’t do it justice. There was a huge food hall and we sampled Dubai chocolate (chocolate with pistachios inside, which is a huge thing here) and sat down at a restaurant that I had actually planned to eat at in Dubai, but we ran out of time. We had hot and cold apps that included delicious hummus, labneh, mutabal (basically baba ganoush), tabouleh and a beet salad, wings, calamari and shrimp. After lunch we headed to Qasr al Watan, the presidential palace where the president (leader of UAE and Abu Dhabi) and vice president of UAE and leader of Dubai, and the crown prince all have offices and receive foreign dignitaries. Incredible mosaics, gold and marble everywhere and exhibits about their contributions to science and medicine.

    After the palace we headed to Corniche beach and let the kids play in the sand while we enjoyed our last day of sun for a while. We walked along the boardwalk to the grand souk so that the kids could get last souvenirs. We found a Lebanese/Italian (weird mix) spot for dinner and the owner really spoiled the kids with free desserts. Came back home and packed up for our flight in the am. This has been such a great trip on a new continent, filled with adventures and family time, which is what we really love the most. We definitely recommend a trip to the UAE. The people have been super kind and welcoming and there is so much to do!    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates

    Abu Dhabi, Jubail Mangrove Park

    18 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We had to leave our wonderful Dubai flat this morning and took a 1 hour taxi ride back to Abu Dhabi. We arrived just before lunch and dropped our bags before taking another taxi to the nearby Yas mall. We picked a location close the airport as there is no central area in AD and we ended up on Yas Island. YI is home to many family attractions (Sea World, Warner Brothers and Ferrari World - with the world’s fastest roller coaster at 150 mph) but we didn’t book any of these stops given our previous excursions and limited time. Instead, after lunch and shopping at the mall, we headed to Jubail Mangrove Park for a private electric boat ride. The park was peaceful and quiet and we learned a lot about the ecosystem including AD’s plan to plant a million trees by 2035 to become the greenest city in the world as the mangrove consumes 4-5x more CO2 than regular trees. We had a slight hiccup after we got dropped off and realised E had dropped her phone in the taxi and we didn’t have a way to contact the driver. Fortunately, we had used an app and toward the end of the boat ride, we were able to get his number and arrange for him to come back. Feeling much better with phone in tow, we enjoyed the 2km walk on the mangrove boardwalk. It was cool and started to rain at the end of the walk so we hailed a taxi and headed home for some groceries and cooked in while introducing the boys to Titanic. Up early tomorrow for sightseeing.Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates
    The Storm rollercoaster slideView from Blackout of Burj Khalifa and Burj Al ArabDrop slideBlackoutArabian SeaRoyal resortSeascapes

    Aquaventure and Royal Atlantis

    17 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We paid for staying out too late last night when we got up early today for our trip to Atlantis Aquaventure. Billed as the world’s largest (most slides) waterpark, we couldn’t pass it up. It opened at 915 and it was a 30 minute taxi - we arrived just after opening. After getting our locker, we jumped on the first slide we could which ended up being a water slide roller coaster with ups and downs. It was a great start. A couple rides later, Gid and I got in line for Leap of Faith, a near vertical drop slide while E and H took Mom to the Shark tank that ends in an underwater tunnel surrounded by a tank full of rays and sharks. Both were the most popular rides so took nearly an hour. After some family raft rides, it warmed up a little as the sun finally came out - it was supposed to be mid 80s but felt more like low 70s especially when you were wet. A few slides later and it was already time for lunch and drying off in the sun.

    After lunch, we talked Elliot and Joce into trying the intimidating drop slide before moving on to the 4 person mat racing slide and 3.5m ‘cliff’ jump pool. Gideon and I split up again to tame the fastest slide in the park - Blackout. The biggest vertical drop in the Middle East, it did not disappoint and was definitely the favorite. Shorter lines helped though 10 flights of stairs made us work. After our second time, we got Joce and Elliot to try as well and it ended as the favorite slide of all. Hudson loved the roller coaster like Medusa’s Lair where you also raced the raft next to you. We ended the day with the world’s longest family raft ride (nearly 2 minutes long) which was also a big hit. The park closed at 6 and we stayed till the end (though we were all freezing by then) before lining up in the showers - which took much longer than planned.

    Since we had a big lunch, I found a place nearby called Seascapes to get drinks (Muslim country so no alcohol sold anywhere aside from some hotel areas) and snacks. We walked 15 up the road and got caught in a mini rain shower. When we arrived, we realised the restaurant was actually a beachside bar at a brand new 5 star resort called the Royal. We were slightly under-dressed when we walked into the lobby to flames in the walls, elevators surrounded by a waterfall feature and multiple 50 foot tall aquariums with a huge outdoor fountain and jumping water features. It was the most amazing hotel we have ever seen. We hurried through with our wet suits and dirty clothes and, fortunately, down at the beach, we were all alone and got to enjoy sliders, guacamole and drinks by the Arabian Sea. On the way out, I wasn’t too shy to take some pictures. May be a future getaway for Joce and I. After relaxing, we took a cab back to our place to crash after our last day in Dubai.    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates
    1Sky View TowersMuseum of the FutureEmirate Towers

    Towers and Global Village

    16 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We didn’t plan anything for today and everyone got to sleep in. We ate brunch in before deciding to go to the Sky View Towers observatory. It’s a big landmark in Dubai (and can be seen in our Burj Khalifa pics behind the kids) that’s know for an edge walk, glass bottom floor and glass slide. We enjoyed the views of the city though I did not do the walk or the slide. There was no way I was going on that slide (see video from the outside). From the Towers, we made our way to the Museum of the Future - this time we decided not to pay the entry fee and just enjoyed the view from the lobby and outside. Just behind the museum were the Emirate Towers that Gideon built in his Dubai model. We went to the pharmacy inside for some paracetamol for mom’s headache before finding a burger place for a late lunch. It was a delicious food (High Joint) stand on a beautiful high 70s clear day. From there, it was an early afternoon taxi to the Global Village about 25 minutes away. We just discovered it online today and we sure got a surprise.

    Global Village is like Epcot on steroids but with Iraq, Yemen, Palestine and Kuwait, plus tons of other countries, and instead of local rides, there are markets of local goods and foods. Food stalls are everywhere and there are cultural dance shows every half hour on a main stage. Then, of course, there is a carnival with rides and experiences. It was overwhelming. We enjoyed the Africa and Turkey shows but the highlight was a dance show by the Urban Crew from the Philippines that apparently are on America’s Got Talent. Joce and I enjoyed some Mexican food while the kids did a rope course and zipline. We stayed out way too late and got home just before midnight. Early start tomorrow for a busy day at our last Dubai stop.    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates

    Super special birthday!

    15 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Today was such a great day. We were up and out early for a walking tour in the old city section and met our guide Hesham after a 20 min cab ride. He took us on a fantastic tour through the Al Fahidi neighbourhood, the original/old Dubai. He also taught us a lot about Islam and the history of how people lived in this region. Super interesting to learn about their culture from a local’s perspective. They even have naming challenges like we are currently facing (Persian Gulf and Arabian Gulf are the same body of water). We saw everything from modern smart police stations to old houses with courtyards and the souks (markets). We started in the grand souk which had loads of stalls filled with fresh spices and food. We tried samosas and hopped a boat across to the oldest souks. We bought all kinds of local specialties including sandalwood to burn, mango tea and menthol and Iranian saffron (for Kelly and I to share). Finished with camel milk/date/chocolate treats for our coworkers and counterfeit Ronaldo and Lamine Yamal football kits for the boys and sand art for E. We ended in the gold souk, which was insane (but we didn’t buy anything:) I also spoke too soon, camel milk gelato was eaten and honestly was pretty delicious.

    The kids and Tige revealed that they were sending me to the spa in the hotel for a few treatments and we headed home for the sweetest and most thought gifts, handwritten cards and even an original song. Tige enjoyed the rooftop infinity pool with the kids while I was relaxing. After the spa I met them at the pool and we went back to the apartment for a call with Mom and Dad, dinner and snuggles. I couldn’t have wished for a better day.    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates

    Great city and desert day

    14 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Big day planned for today. We left the apartment after breakfast and headed out to walk to the Burj Khalifa. Once we found out the entrance was in the Dubai Mall we jumped in line. We had heard that the lines were long to get in, and were also told that this “was not a busy day” for them. 2 hours later we were in an elevator. 125 floors in 77 seconds. Total height is the building is 2722ft, nearly twice as tall as the sears/willis tower. Super crazy to be up that high. There was an outdoor observation deck and obviously views everywhere. Very special building that Emeratis are very proud of.

    We thought we had planned plenty of time between BK and the desert safari that we had signed up for mid-afternoon, but the driver we hired was very cool about picking us up a bit later and met us at the mall. He drove us about an hour out of town into the desert to our first stop at an adventure center. Though we were initially not going to do it, the kids and I flipped quickly and convinced Tige to ride ATVs. They fitted us with headscarves for the sand and Huddy and I drove together and the big kids each had one (Tige also). Super fun time driving around a sand field with very small sand dunes. Our driver let the air out of his tires and we went dune bashing. The cars are all luxury SUVs with roll cages inside. Mostly fun, a bit scary, but H and I hung in there in the 3rd row. We stopped for some pics and the kids and Tige did some sand sliding before we headed back to the center.

    Next we did a very short camel 🐪 ride. They actually sell camel milk in the grocery store, but we are not that brave lol.

    After camels we jumped back in the SUV (with full air in tires again) and headed took us to the camp where dinner and shows would take place. It was sort of like an Arabian Luau. We sat at a low table on bean bags and ate bbq’d kebabs, veggies and hummus, several different lentil dishes, samosas and dessert. They had fire and belly dancers and 2 guys from Egypt who did a performance where they spun skirts- very unusual, but they were talented for sure. We left the camp and our driver drove us back and we de-sanded and in for the night. Earlier start tomorrow, so need some sleep!    Läs mer

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  • United Arab Emirates
    Landed in Abu DhabiView from our balcony

    Dubai!

    13 februari, Förenade arabemiraten ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    We hurried home from work on a Wednesday to finish packing for our 930pm flight to Abu Dhabi. Heathrow was a ghost town and we had no troubles. We didn’t expect dinner to be served at midnight so it left us little time to sleep on the 7 hour overnight flight. We arrived at 830 am local time (430 am body clock time) on 2-3 hours of sleep and found a taxi service for the one hour drive to our Airbnb (hotel) in Dubai. Since we arrived so early, we couldn’t check in for an hour so we got some light lunch at the hotel. We got to check in at noon and immediately went to sleep. A one hour planned nap turned into 3.5 hours but we still had time to see the town. Our Airbnb is a hotel residence with an amazing balcony view of the Burj Khalifa. We had a 15 minute walk to the Dubai Mall (first or second largest mall in the world) where the kids begged to go ice skating and we found an old favorite restaurant from back home. After some window shopping, we made our way to see the Dubai Fountain show (like the Bellagio fountains in Vegas). The weather is amazing with full sun and a high in the mid 80s (a relief from rain and 40s for the last 4 months). We finally sat down for food and had a delicious meal at the Social House. We walked around the base of the Burj Khalifa before getting some groceries on the way home. Dubai is so clean and beautiful and tall buildings abound. Kids are wondering where the desert is. Back at home, we went up to the rooftop infinity pool (which just closed, much to the kids disappointment) before showers and tucking in to bed. Big day planned tomorrow so hoping our internal clocks can reset quickly. So strange to be using air con!Läs mer

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  • Wales

    Friday & Saturday

    21 december 2024, Wales ⋅ 🌬 41 °F

    This is intentionally a lazy, no iPad trip and we have all been relaxing and sleeping in. We had a good breakfast on Friday, followed by a full Liverpool game & lunch (Mom won). Afterward, we went hiking near the house through local footpaths, and then quickly out in the surrounding fields. We first went through a horse field, with what must be the most aggressive horses that I have ever seen. Three of them came over to us and then followed us around (likely because of Stevie). She snapped a twig and one of them reared up too close for my comfort from Gid's face. Once out from there, we walked through sheep fields with increasing elevation, enjoying views. The kids love sheep (for some reason) and we heard a lot of cooking up plans about their future sheep farm, which was so sweet. We hiked back down, safely navigating the horses, with muddy clothes (the only one who didn't slip and at least partially fall was Gid), and the dirtiest, happiest pup ever. Not bad for her first 3-mile hike! After the hike, we headed into the village to a little shop called the Walnut Tree. We grabbed more cards and supplies for dinner and walked back. Everyone had a bath and then dinner in tonight.

    Today we were up earlier and enjoyed having coffee and hanging out. We played cards and took Stevie for long walks and then headed out for a hike. We drove to Talybont-on-Usk, which was about 10 minutes away on very single-lane UK roads. Tige had to back up for about half a mile when a Tesco truck met us head-on. We parked and hiked uphill for about a mile and a half and ended up in a hilltop field. Once we were over a few stiles and back to a road we had a private lane walk back to our starting point. 4 pretty challenging miles in all and Stevie again impressing us with her stamina. So excited to have a pup who can hike with us! Back home to chill for about an hour, play some cards and then pub dinner around the corner. Nowhere nearly as good as the first night, unfortunately, but home for movie night (The Matrix). Sad to pack up in the morning - this Air BNB has been perfect and the time together just what we needed. This week was just what we needed and we will definitely be back to Wales - it is gorgeous.    Läs mer

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  • Wales

    Wales

    18 december 2024, Wales ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    With a new dog in tow, we decided to stay 'local' this year and booked a cottage in a remote town in Wales called Llangynidr in Powys (we cannot pronounce either - Welsh is a mouthful). After a pit stop for Stevie, we made it in just over three hours and checked in just as the sun was setting at 1600. It was already raining and muddy but I was able to back down the single track road just barely scraping by the stone walls to unload. The cottage is cozy but plenty of family room and bedrooms for all as well as a fireplace. After unloading, we walked to the local pub but found it was open for drinks only so back in the car to drive into the nearby town (Bwlch - yes, that’s how it is spelled). Drinks only at that pub too (guess Wednesdays aren't a popular dinner night) but they opened the kitchen just for us and we had a wonderful meal including a Welsh beef pie, burger, bangers and local venison lasagna. We also noticed a rope necklace made with a wooden sign with the letters W and N carved on them. When the kids pointed it out, one of the locals told us the story of the 'Welsh Not' - a sign hung around school children's necks if they were caught speaking Welsh. At the end of the day, they would receive a beating as they attempted to remove the language from the country. Crazy.

    Thursday morning we got up to cook breakfast in and play some games before bundling up and driving to Crickhowell nearby. The popular Crickhowell Bridge over the River Usk made for a good picture. We also got to see the remains of Crickhowell Castle (originally built over 1000 years ago) in the center of town. It was cold and windy so after pics, we found a Co-op and picked up groceries for the next few days and then headed home. We tried for an early dinner at the local pub but, again, closed for food - this time until 1830, not the entire night - so we drove to the next closest pub. Unfortunately, this one wasn't as good and H apparently got food poisoning as he left his dinner on the ground just outside the front door. Gave us a scare that we would all get sick but by the time we got home, he was already hungry again and is normal this morning. Thankfully he perked up because we got to introduce the kids to Liverpool rummy for the first time and it was a big hit. Kept us up late into the night pausing at round 5 but to be continued today. After breakfast in, we are about to bundle up for exploration today. The wind and rain are intimidating but Stevie loves it so we will have to take her along.    Läs mer

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