• Tige
  • Jocelyn Cooper
august 2025

Poland

Et 10-dags eventyr af Tige & Jocelyn Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    7. august 2025

    Hello Kraków

    7. august, Polen ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Today we were up at 430 to head to the airport for an early flight. Quick flight and stop in Frankfurt (and a couple of legit frankfurters for the boys) and then flight to Krakow. After a very stinky Bolt ride we found our place. Small but really nice apartment that is very walkable to the old town and shops. We picked up supplies for the apartment and then headed to dinner at Mirror Bistro, a spot known for famous pierogis. They hand made the savory and then sweet dumplings along with some super delicious soup- traditional broth and an excellent traditional sour soup with sausage. I think we prefer the Americanized pan fried version over the boiled, but everything was flavorful and the service was great.

    Headed to bed now, but excited to go on a tour and start exploring tomorrow!
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  • Beautiful Kraków

    8. august, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After a good night’s sleep, we had breakfast in our very nice flat before the 10 minute walk to the middle of Old Town Kraków. It was a beautiful morning (leading to a beautiful day) and we met our free tour guide at St. Mary’s Basilica. We joined a group of about 20 and were led around Old Town by a local. We learned about Kraków’s history and enjoyed walking around its streets. We ended at the Wawel Castle and then left via the Dragon’s Den, an underground cave right underneath the castle to find the flame throwing dragon statue at the end. Legend has that a dragon used to haunt the castle but was outsmarted and killed by a shoemaker after all the knights failed. Dragons are sold everywhere in Kraków and, as the former capital, are an important part of Poland’s folklore. After some pics with the dragon and Vistula River, we found some shade before planning our lunch at a milk bar. Unfortunately, we picked a popular one that had a very long line when we arrived so picked a polish place recommended by our guide and had a delicious lunch of soups and kielbasa. We made our way back to the historical large market by the basilica and did some window shopping. We then got tickets to go inside the Basilica. Very colorful inside, it was unique compared to the many churches we have visited. We also enjoyed sitting down and taking a break after a full day. From the basilica, we decided to take the metro to Krakus Mound. The legendary burial place of mythical King Krakus (that founded Krakow), it was essentially a giant hill 6km outside of old town that overlooked the entire city. It was a beautiful view and we were surprised to see that over a 100 people joined us as sunset approached. As the day wore down, Jocelyn found a nearby pizza place (though it was in quite a sketchy area next to the train tracks) and we made our way home for a delicious dinner while watching Clarkson’s Farm on Prime Video (an absolute favorite of the kids). A full and beautiful day in a beautiful city. Tomorrow will be a little more somber.Læs mere

  • Salt and Hard Truths

    9. august, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    If you would have asked us 5 years ago about how much fun we could have in a salt mine we would have both said probably zero. So wrong! After a super fun time in Hallstatt 2 years ago we decided to check out the Wieliczka salt mine just outside of Krakow. It was superb! Not the largest in the world but one of the oldest. We saw about 1% of it and walked for 3 hours and were 130m below the ground. They started mining it in the 1300s and stopped in 1996. Great tour guide and impressive operation. One of the things that made it special was that there was so much art within. Carved into walls and intermixed with old marks from hand tools from a long time ago. There were modern spaces for weddings and events (even football matches played there). The most beautiful part was a chapel/cathedral that was entirely carved from salt. Chandeliers of pure salt, beautiful pictographs of stories of Jesus and of course John Paul II, who was so important here. Copernicus (also Polish) had a beautiful sculpture also. We watched a light show over a salt lake set to Chopin (also Polish). We left the site and tried to grab lunch (burgers). After a bit of a wait we asked to takeaway because we were already late for Auschwitz-Birkenau tour. We did make it in time (more positive reinforcement for a family weakness of perpetual lateness).

    Leading up to this we have been trying to talk to the kids about the Holocaust because we think that it is an important thing to learn about, but also worried about their ages. Elliot and G to a lesser extent have already learned about this in school, but not H.

    The tour started in Auschwitz I and then we took a bus to Birkenau about 3 km away. 1,100,000 people were killed at these death camps alone. Gideon and Elliot grasped it more having studied it and we were worried that Hudson wouldn’t really understand, but he felt it deeply as well. We saw the rooms, gas chambers, and crematoriums. We saw the shoes and glasses and life left behind, and walked the route from the train to the gas chamber at Birkenau. It was a heavy day with a lot of evidence to make you feel the scope of the tragedy, but certainly worth the visit. This place is so beautiful but can’t escape many hard parts of history.

    We came home and picked up a super delicious Indian takeout and watched Clarkson’s Farm, which if you have access you should totally watch. A British gem that was exactly what we needed.
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  • Schindler and Arcade

    10. august, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    After yesterday, we took a small step down and booked a guided tour as Oskar Schindler’s factory. The tour was a little rushed but took us through 3 stories of the factory detailing the start of German occupation of Krakow in 1941 and ending in Schindler’s actual office with details about the end of the war. The ‘liquidation’ of the Krakow ghetto was certainly upsetting but, after yesterday, the kids understood what that meant. It was also interesting to learn how Schindler was a complicated character that started out taking advantage of the Jews that worked for him but ended up risking himself to save nearly 1200. Joce and I haven’t watched the movie in quite a while but will have to revisit it soon. It was a sunny and warm day and we stopped by a very odd outdoor flea market on the way back from the train. It had some interesting items but we decided best not to make any offers. We then made our way to a local Polish restaurant for a late lunch but were turned away for lack of reservation. Instead, we wandered around and stumbled upon a Krakow street food stand and had some delicious (and very cheap) plaki (potato pancakes). At lunch, we told the kids our plan for the rest of the day - an arcade museum. We visited our first one in Berlin a couple years ago and had a blast so we put it on our list when we found out that they had one here. The Krakow Arcade Museum was basically an arcade with ‘free’ games from when we were kids. Pay the entry fee and we could stay as long as we wanted (which turned into 4 hours). It was hot but we all had a lot of fun and relived some childhood memories. After dropping off the rental car, we came home for showers and sandwiches with another episode of Clarkson’s Farm. Our last day in Krakow was certainly a good one and it was a beautiful city. Tomorrow morning we have an early train to our next destination.Læs mere

  • Heading to Warsaw

    11. august, Polen ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Up early for an 821 train to Warsaw. Comfy train with a private car in first class (the only first class these kids see lol) plus one completely silent older polish woman. Made it to Warsaw by 11. Bought tickets for the tram to our place and hopped on with 5 carryons, backpacks and the leftover food we had. Tige turned around to validate the tickets and the conductor was blocking his path. He then proceeds to fine us 78 pounds for not validating our tickets. Nothing that could be done but pay and ride. We stashed our luggage at a hotel arranged by our host and headed to our tour of the Old Town. Our guide was actually a British ex-pat and we were the only family there. It was a great intro to Warsaw. Warsaw was leveled by the Nazis in 1945 at the end of the war after the Warsaw Uprising, and only the Presidential Palace and a fancy hotel survived. They went from a population of 1.3 million to 160k after the war. They rebuilt the city to be a replica of what it was before. As a visitor you don’t know the difference. It is beautiful and clean (like elsewhere in Poland) and vibrant.

    Afterwards we checked into our apartment- 4 bedrooms right off of the castle square and headed to eat (Polish) before venturing out again. We headed to an incredible Park called the Royal Baths, which is about 1/5 the size of Central Park but incredibly beautiful. Solid playground, beautiful gardens and cute red squirrels, one that would come take nuts from the kids. So sweet!

    After exploring the park we headed back, grabbed ice cream and came back to settle in for our first night here. Lots of sweet conversations and snuggles to end the night, which is the best part of holidays.
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  • Chopin and Food Tour in Warszawa

    12. august, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We finally got to sleep in this morning but set an alarm for our entry into Chopin’s Museum. We took a Bolt to the museum (we are staying in central Old Town) and got in with no waiting. The museum had many artifacts from Chopin’s life, including his last piano. He was born about an hour outside of Warsaw and trained here before spending much of his later years in France before dying at 39. We got to hear a lot of his music as well and the kids were good. It was a beautiful building. Afterwards, we walked to the nearby Electrownia
    Powisle - a converted power plant that has been turned into a food hall and small mall. We had delicious Mexican food (can’t get it in the UK) before walking back to our flat. After a short break, we headed back out to the nearby Warsaw Uprising Monument (featured in the recent movie, The Big Pain, largely set in and around Warsaw). It was an absolutely gorgeous day (we couldn’t have had much nicer weather on this trip) but after getting some cash (Złotny), we made our way to the downtown of Warsaw for our scheduled (free) food tour. We started at the controversial Palace of Culture and Science - it was beautiful and imposing (and, apparently, the most famous building in Poland) but as it was a ‘gift’ from Stalin after the war, its seen by some as an oppressive symbol in the country. It was a beautiful building though and has a lot of museums and theatres inside with a viewpoint at the top. Unfortunately, we won’t get to go inside but glad we got to see a different part of the city. Our guide (from the Gdansk area, next city on our trip) showed us the first McDonald’s and explained how big of a deal McD’s is to Poles and how special it was the day they opened, with 40k people showing up for the opening. Our first stop was for the Polish street food ‘zapiekanka’ - basically a bagette style pizza sandwich (minus the tomato sauce) - almost like a Chicago hot dog with cheese and full toppings minus the sausage on a toasted bun. It was absolutely delicious (and cost about £3). Lussi’s was apparently the original and most famous stand in the city. We then go to try local pickles, snacks, coffee, a stop at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and a milk bar. The latter is a government subsidized restaurant that serves cheap and fast food (like pierogis and cold beetroot soup - which was surprisingly tasty but enormous and quite the pink color with a strong dill flavor). It was a beautiful night to eat outside and we couldn’t eat the entire $20 meal before moving on to the local chocolate shop and finishing the night with donuts. On our way home, we stopped by the Warsaw mermaid, believed to be the namesake of Warsaw (she being named Sawa and had children with a local fisherman name Wars). After packing our finally dried laundry, we watched the end of the movie Premium Rush before bedtime. We will be sad to leave Warsaw behind so quickly tomorrow. It’s such a beautiful city - given that 90% was destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt in the 50’s, I guess that makes sense - but we didn’t realize how clean and safe it would be.
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  • Gdańsk

    13. august, Polen ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Late morning train after a fab few days in Warsaw. Train was a little late but first class was worth it. We arrived in Gdańsk, which is a gorgeous little town along the Baltic Sea. There is definitely Dutch influence that you can see in the architecture and we were told that they traded through this region. We walked to our flat, which is on Mariaka Street, one on the prettiest streets in town, lined with coffee spots and cute restaurants. There is a huge artisan fair in town until Sunday, so we dropped our bags and went out exploring. Amber is a huge deal here (deposits in the Baltic Sea, historical trading, lots of jewelry amd gifts now). E got some really beautiful butterfly earrings, while the boys chose geodes and obsidian. We ate, saw the famous Neptune statue, and just walked around on a gorgeous night. Back at the flat with music playing outside, movie night inside:)Læs mere

  • Beach Day!

    14. august, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We slept in this morning before the boys cooked breakfast. It was going to be another beautiful day. We couldn’t have been much more fortunate with the weather. Upper 70’s and full sun with low humidity and no wind. We did some early day souvenir shopping to get our amber fix and then walked to a nearby mall to pick up some cheap beach towels. After electing to take an Uber to the beach (we didn’t realize it was 25 minutes away from central Gdańsk) as the train was going to take twice as long, we got dropped off in front of a hotel and then walked through to reach the boardwalk. The beach was absolutely packed but we had read on ChatGPT where we could find beach chairs and umbrellas for rent. There were beach restaurants around, and late in the afternoon, we all ate on the sand. The boys (with some help from Elliot) contributed to a big sand hole on the beach. Mom, Dad and E enjoyed reading. The water was cool but quickly adjusted to, especially on a sunny day. After 5 hours, we decided to make our way back and ordered dinner in after everyone showered. It was a great day with no schedule and we all soaked up the sun. Should sleep well tonight.Læs mere

  • Last day in Poland

    15. august, Polen ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    We continued the lazy morning and breakfast in plan and then headed out for the day. We read that there was a terrific WWII museum here and it did not disappoint. Phenomenal. The building was massive and definitely built for the purpose of what was inside. It was a little tricky to figure out the way inside, but once we did, we were blown away. By this point we all have a deeper understanding of the events between WWI and II (by no means comprehensive, still learning new things at every turn), but this place was next level. Every room was basically like an art exhibition, each room different, and everything was in English which was very helpful. Gdańsk (Danzig) was the starting point for WWII, and we could see Westerplatte from the beach later in the day. We learned so much and I think that the kids really appreciated the difference between the American perspective versus the European perspective, especially from Poland, as they (the Jewish Poles and less so the Poles in general), really suffered the worst horrors it seems. We could have stayed there all day, but had promised to check out another beach Breźezko, that had better swimming conditions today. We Übered down to the beach, grabbed a couple of zapiekankas and found a spot along the crowded sand, luckily with the bleachers from the sand football pitch to shade us. Gideon dug a fantastic sand lounge space with a compartment for his feet and arm rests, and E and I finished our books. We ended the day playing catch/volleyball in the 70 degree water (thankfully only up to my upper thigh even 50m from shore). These moments are the best ones. I love that at dinner tonight, Elliot was asking G what he wanted to talk about rather than be on her phone. I love that Hudson walked home hand in hand with E and G from our last dinner here. I love our crew so much and am so thankful for the time that we get to be away and just focus on each other and learn so many new things. Poland has been better than I had hoped and very good to us. However, we miss our beds and our sweet pup and can’t wait to be home tomorrow!Læs mere

  • Witsbergers Never Give Up!

    16. august, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today was a day. After packing up, we had breakfast in and had extra time before our flight so did some final shopping on the streets of Gdańsk before heading back to pick up our bags. We even got in a final stop at Żabka - a popular and ubiquitous store in Poland - sort of like 7-11 and the only available grocery option on Sundays. As we loaded up in our Bolt, we got the first notification that our flight was delayed. After making it through airport security, we had a McD’s lunch and got two more flight delays. We try to avoid connections at all cost but Poland doesn’t have a lot of options to Heathrow and now our connection was set to leave Munich about the same as we were set to arrive. When we got to Munich, we missed our connection by about 12 minutes and were automatically rebooked on flights to Frankfurt and then LHR at 6am tomorrow morning. We knew there were 2 more flights to LHR but, as it turned out, over 1,000 other people also missed their connections and we were told nothing could be done. While Joce joined the queue in one terminal with H, I took G and E and looked for a service desk with a shorter line in another terminal while also trying to rebook through the app while on hold for the Lufthansa hotline. In the end, Joce waited 90 minutes and never got to the front of the line but I was able to get her and H on a 10pm flight to LHR leaving E, G and me to fly to Zurich and then to LHR tomorrow. While awaiting Joce and H to join us from the other terminal, I stalked the gate attendant on a late flight to Frankfurt that connected to Heathrow to see if I could get on standby. It was then that I was informed that there was a 1830 flight direct to LHR with last minute seats for all of us but since it was 1820, I wouldn’t be able to make it. After some frantic begging, the gate agent called over and the 1830 flight was delayed so she told me to run… to another terminal, via a train and through passport security. Fortunately, this is when Jocelyn arrived (as she had all 5 passports) and was slightly puzzled when I started yelling to run. Hauling 5 backpacks and 5 overfilled carryons, we ran up 3 floors, down 2, took a train, cut in front of passport security line, then through the terminal… and made it. It was touch and go while they rebooked us for the 4th time at the gate and then we finally made it through as the last group only to find the door to the gangway closed and locked. We pounded on the door and finally an agent came down and we got on. As it turns out, there were at least 11 empty seats. We were scattered through the plane but, after take-off, all joined up in a fully open row. Certainly a stressful, albeit exciting, end to a wonderful trip. Before we left, we got a lot of questions from friends about ‘why Poland’ but it’s clear that anyone that asks that has never been. It was a beautiful week and a beautiful country. Still, it will be nice to see our own beds and Stevie tonight.Læs mere

    Slut på rejsen
    16. august 2025