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  • Day 4

    Learning About Sevilla’s History

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    On Friday, we had a terrific time visiting Sevilla’s ancient cathedral and the Royal Alcazar palace. Ruling control of Sevilla has changed hands between Christian and Muslim cultures for about a thousand years.

    The cathedral is the third largest in the world (after Rome and London), and it’s construction reflects the changes in ownership. The site had a church, which became a mosque and then a cathedral. New owners tore down much, but not all, of their predecessors work. My biggest impressions were of:
    - The number of dedicated chambers in the cathedral, comprised of meeting rooms and chapels with access limited based on ranks and roles. The place is HUGE. I took the rooftop tour and was fascinated to see the spaces and the structures from above. I’d love to see their structural calculations that confirmed how the flying buttresses work!
    - The paintings which are always skillfully crafted and often huge in scale and number. My favorites are of the immaculate conception through the Christ’s youth. The death and war are depicted with skill, but the effect remains disturbing.
    - The sculptures of silver and marble and wood. Wow!
    That afternoon, we visited the Royal Palaces of the Alcazar. Here, a respect between Christian and Muslim patrons and designers is obvious. We saw elements with Muslim influence that were intentionally integrated by Christian patrons. The results are beautiful tile work, and bas relief writing on the walls (no images of people or animals are integrated into the structure). Here we stood in the very rooms where Ferdinand and Isabella conferred with voyagers like Colombia and Magellan. At the end of the 15th century, Sevilla was one of the world’s very most prominent cities, and it shows.

    And then there’s the food! The city closes around midnight. We would have delicious late dinners of lamb or spinach cannelloni, or fish, followed by enjoying a gelato on the steps of the cathedral. What a fascinating place to visit!
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