The first pass

Tarapoto is low and steamy. The plan is to take a taxi up the long busy valley to where the mountains start. Despite assurances from the hotel, the lift with bikes (still boxed) is a challenge. A van is arranged but when it turns up it is a taxi and too small. A bigger one is ordered and we just just squeeze in,
Then it is 4 bumpy and alarming hours on the road. Much slowed by motorbikes, tuk tuks and monster lorries. The road signs (no overtaking, 35km/h) are uniformly ignored. The only thing that makes a difference are the ferocious bumps in urban areas- for which everyone slows to almost zero.

Once out of the taxi, we rebuild our bikes ready for tomorrow.

The ride to the pass is heavily forested and 1800m of climb. We really need to make it to the top as there is almost nowhere we would willingly put a tent. And so we push on, hurrying a little as we need to find somewhere before 6pm as darkness falls early here. Luckily just over the pass we find a tiny village with space for a tent. We ask the locals and get the thumbs up. Pitching the tent near the new school and the half built soon to be toilet block (water and sanitation are clearly a big current project in this part of Peru). We are the subject of gentle interest and are very kindly given garden lettuce, carrots and 2 eggs.Læs mere