Ollantaytambo

After our nice stay in Pisaq, we head for Ollantaytambo, an important Inca site on the way to Machu Pichu. Not all goes well: Alice's Rohloff cable breaks once again... and meanwhile we have lost the necessary tool. Luckily this time, the failure happens in front of half a dozen ferrateria (hardware) shops, so we can buy a new tool set, and borrow a wire cutter. We manage the repair quickly!

Arriving late afternoon in Ollantaytambo, the road turns from tarmac to big cobbles. Presumably this is good for touristic interest, but it is horrible for cyclists!

We have one full day for exploration. As we get to the site, a Quechua lady from the next village, Vianne, proposes to act as a guide for the terraces, the temple on top, the condor and the water fountains.

Vianne explains wonderfully, with a detailed book when needed. The site is at the junction of the sacred valley and another valley that eventually leads to the jungle. The site is set up across two sides of this valley, with terraces and ceremonial buildings on the side having good exposure to the sun. Stores are perched on the other side, which is much less sunny and is well ventilated.

On the sunny valley side, the temple from late 15th century was disfigured by Spaniards, around 1560 (they demolished in particular four sculpted pumas). The traditional symbols of Condor (air, spirit) Puma (earth, human power) and Snake(water, death), which were already used in the second century, are still present in Inca times.

From the temple, we climb to the top of the hill, with a construction for the meditative penitence of badly behaving folks: hands tied, backs to the sun and facing the shady part of the world. Vianne demonstrates and invites us do it too! So now we must be forgiven.

The next morning, we visit the other side of the valley including the guard post and remarkable food stores. This mountain, when viewed from the main site, acted as a calendar to tell the time of year. The buildings are very well preserved (although the steep thatched roofs have gone) and show an architectural perfection that is mind boggling.

We are just in time to catch the train to Machu Picchu!Read more