Pacha Mama floating island

We have arranged with Felix, our host, to visit one of Lake Titicaca’s famed floating reed islands. We leave at 7.30am and an hour later arrive at a tiny floating island. It is only 10 metres across and covered in dried totora reeds. It is soft, damp and springy and moves beneath our feet - giving the impression of being a house boat as much as an island. We are seriously taken aback by how small it is.

Eleven people live on the island which is called Pacha Mama or Mother Earth. There are 4 small huts built of reeds around the edge. We are led to a reed bench (cylinder) where one of the locals, Leo, explains to us (in Spanish) about the island and its construction and inhabitants.

The island is one of about 90 and is made by cutting and then tying together lumps of reed peat. Then placing layers of dried reeds on the top (these layers need to be topped up regularly as the island gently rots and sinks). Islands like this have existed since the 10th Century. However each island has a lifespan of around 35 years and this one is just 3 years old.

Food is obtained from fishing, and hunting water fowl - and also by visiting the mainland. There is a floating island school for the kids. The toilet these days includes a septic tank. We are invited to visit one of the huts. It is rectangular and the size of a modest garden shed. 2 adults and 4 kids sleep here. The reed roof is lined with plastic which has holes and does not look like it keeps out the rain. But there is a solar panel and electric light. Cooking is outside.

The families largely live off the lake, but get their cash by allowing tourists like us to visit and by selling woven goods and boat rides. It feels a somewhat strange arrangement and rather touristy for our tastes - but equally it is really an interesting visit and they appear to need the income.

We take a ride through the reeds and around the island in a wide, very stable raft/punt, made (of course) out of reeds. As well as building material for the island, houses and boats, the pith of the reed can be eaten by peeling back the outer layer. We try it - it is bland and innocuous.

It does not take so long to visit a 10m diameter island. Soon Felix returns to take us back to base and we chat as best we can about life on the peninsula.Read more