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Practising in the Alps
  • AliceAlain
July 2025

Practising in the Alps

Our upcoming trip to Peru will take us high and offroad. So to acclimatise a little to cycling, long climbs, off road and sleeping at altitude we set off on a short expedition to the Alps. Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 16, 2025
    AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    Camped in Bonnenuit
    Saint-Michel de Maurienne, l'ArcThe famous TélégrapheOn the way up Col du TélégrapheNot the first one up!We camped close to here in 2020

    Valloire

    July 16 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Here we start for good our "training" for Peru, the purpose being to warm up to big climbs and importantly to learn how to sleep well at high altitude. First stage: Saint Michel de Maurienne, (700m) until the well-named hamlet Bonnenuit (1700m).
    Alain is quite rusty, but Alice waits amicably enough. Gently and patiently, we make it to the col du Telegraph, Valloire, and then up the valley next to the torrent where we pitch the tent.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    We like it spiky
    On the route towards GalibierWe turn off onto an old military roadConcentrationAnd hard workRe supplyingMountain flowersProgress has been madeThat tiny blob is AlainThe Military camp at over 2000m. In the background the three powerful Aiguilles d'ArveFinally the topCamped at 2400m

    The military road

    July 17 in France ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The start of the climb is shared with many many other cyclists who are heading up the col du Galibier - at speed and unladen. This is a col we did in 2020. When we climbed it before we spotted another mountain track that looked intriguing. Its an old military road that heads up to 2500m and we hope that we can then use a footpath over the col to reach a hut and track on the far side (tomorrow).
    The military road is steep and bumpy and its tough to keep going. But we keep at it, round hairpin after hairpin, crossing the odd military truck on our way. After the first pass, there is a secluded military encampment, then more rough track until finally a beautiful high valley with lakes. And lots of flat space for camping. It turns out we are not alone in wanting to camp high. By the time we turn in, there are another dozen tents from walkers and one other set of cyclists beside the lake.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    Packing up
    This passage used to mark the border between France (Dauphiné, Névache) and Italy (Savoie).Its a rocky footpath over the topWe have to descend several slabs of very slippery rock, on or off the bike.Breathing after a nice sommersault into the high grassOccasionally we get to rideThe hut equals success. From here down we have a track along the Clarée valleyMountains, trees, and blue sky.Climbing the vallée étroite (narrow valley) under mount Thabor.View from our tent

    Descent in the wild

    July 18 in France ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The pass to which the military road leads is the Col des Rochilles at around 2500m. It's a wonderful open space for dozens of marmots and bivouacing humans, who spend a fair amount of time observing each other. There are two big lakes at the top, and a smaller one, just a bit lower on the east side, that forms the source of the Clarée torrent. The pass formed a border crossing between Piedmont (Savoye) in the north, and France (Dauphiné) in the south. It must have been a nice road as we can see from big square stones and a nice border mark, but a landslide seems to have closed it a long time ago.

    Traversing with the bicycles is somewhat acrobatic, Alain even ends up doing a spectacular summersault when his bike refuses to follow his wishful orders! Not much harm. The scenery is wild and deserted, the Clarée valley is closed to motor vehicles and exceptionally remote.

    The main town here is the little village of Nevache, near which the traffic resumes. We are now close to another former border between France and Italy, col de l'échelle, and soon turn up in the "Vallée étroite". This is a former Italian territory, acquired by France at the end of WWII. Its rather unclear why, as it communicates well with Italy, the phone numbers and rubbish collection, and most visitors, are Italian -- never mind, it's a delightful small place of the world where we find a good place to pitch the tent.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    Still 900m to go
    The view opens up as we climb beyond the treesLooking back at BardonneciaSerious thunderstorm along the wayWe camp half way up beside a series of waterfallsAlice's new bike showing offWe camped down bottom left at the base of these waterfallsWorking our way up the "lacets"Switchbacks. A lot of themThe last hairpin bend

    Climbing

    July 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our mission is to climb the col de Sommeiller. It is a dirt road that climbs to 3000m. Which will be the highest we have ever been on bikes. Its too much for just one day, so after stocking up in Bardonnecia we climb to 2100m and find a quiet place to camp beside a series of waterfalls. We hope that the marmot does not mind using a spare entrance as the tent is rather close to his front door.
    The next morning it is more climbing. It is somewhat marred by the significant sunday traffic. Its very popular with motorbikes and 4 wheel drives- which is a pain for us- noisy, smelly and challenging when the road is so rough and narrow. We head past zillions of flowers, then into more barren scree as we near the top.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    The bikes shelter beside the bivouac /refugeThe tail end of a glacierUnfortunately its a popular motor bike destinationLooks better with out the motorbikes and 4WDAmazing alpine flowersThe other side of the pass (France)The glacierLooking back at the refugeIts quite precipitous hereIbex/bouquetinView from the refuge tableCooking out of the windNext morning, after a dusting of snow, the sun shines!

    3000m - col de sommeiller

    July 20 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    With all this effort, we end up at the Col de Sommeiller by 14:00. The Bardonecchia website claims, "The highest road in Europe is 27 km long and crosses the Rochemolles Valley from 1300 m in Bardonecchia to 3009m at the Sommeiller Col". So here we are, quite a bit earlier than we thought we would, at 3000m. The impact of altitude is not too serious yet.

    While we had contemplated the possibility of crossing over directly to the Maurienne Valley, some sources suggest the route is not advised for bicycles- and we are heavily laden. We do however meet two cyclists who are planning to make the crossing.

    At the top, a gorgeous lake and a superb refuge. We have time for a venture by foot over the french side of the border. This immense valley was until recently home to a great glacier. Its very barren and full of scree. A group of 20 bouquetins (Ibex) are grazing on the rocks below the glacier. Although there is rock everywhere we find an amazing collection of alpine flowers tucked into the crannies. The weather is overcast, so no Mt Blanc view! Back at the top, a lonely bouquetin kindly poses for us.

    The target is to sleep at altitude, and yes, by 18:00 or so, it is all quiet up there. After dinner, we lay our sleeping bags in the dining room of the refuge, with a nice view, and undertake sleeping successfully. Bummer, around 21:00 a very polite German leading a group of several 4×4 trucks, comes to request that we move to a dormitory, as his crowd is hungry and plans to eat and sleep here. Not only eat, we realize, as they bring a few six-packs along. Oh well... It was not the best of nights.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    Lac du mont cenis
    1Looking back down towards SusaGood to know where we areMeasuring gauges

    Mont cenis

    July 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After our descent from Bardonnecia and several nights out in the wild we spend a night in a bed and breakfast. The shower is much appreciated.
    The next day is a long but pleasant climb towards the lac du mont cenis and France. Its a climb we have done before. And like last time we plan to pitch the tent up by the reservoir.Read more

  • AliceAlainPractising in the AlpsTraveler
    The glaciers of the VanoiseWe make it to the top just as the rain arrivesAfter the rainCamped by the refuge

    La Vanoise

    July 23 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our last day before coming home.... we have chosen to descend from Montcenis to climb to the refuge de plan du lac, 2476m, at the heart of the Vanoise. This a solid climb with views on the region of the French-Italian border that we visited a few days ago (Sommeiller, etc.). It takes us in front of the Vanoise glacier and the highest point in the massif, La Grande Casse. Neither of these great features are visible from our usual places of observation in the Jura, so it's all new to us to admire.

    We bivouac next to the refuge, and have dinner there, thus enjoying a bit of refuge life. The guardian is a smily and bossy lady, and generally the feeling is that of a French grammar school. At the large table we meet new people, coming from different lives and targets. Good fun. The views from the tent are superb, clouds permitting.

    Altogether, with several climbs of over 1300 m and up to 3000, and several nights above 2000m, we are itching to climb even higher in South America    Read more

    Trip end
    July 24, 2025
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