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The Raining (a journey Home)
  • AliceAlain
  • AliceAlain

The Raining (a journey Home)

Alice is travelling solo, direction UK. Despite booking nice weather it has mostly been wet and grey and cool. One might say it is sun yesterday and sun tomorrow but never sun today… Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 21, 2024
    AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    The morning after (col du sac)
    Col du SacFerns and feetFancy passing the winter here?Descending from the col through the old ski resortThe old tramway. The cafe is open and kindly gives me water.2View from Pont des PierresThe woods and hills of the JuraFinally I find somewhere to spend the night

    Across the Jura

    September 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    And she’s off! Destination UK. Time to try the trip properly and without any nasty aeroplane. This is to be a solo trip.

    The first hill will be the biggest hill of the entire journey as there is 1000m to climb to get over the Jura. Alain is tasked with accompanying me to the top. The luggage feels super heavy and my legs very off-form. Half way up I decide I should trim my load and donate it to Alain to take back. Despite the reduction, its still a struggle to the top. And after a rather tardy afternoon start, it’s practically dark when we get to the col. I give Alain the spare front light as a gesture of good will and he bravely pedals down in dark and chill. I am tucked up asleep before he is home.

     It is very sombre and heavily wooded on the col and about as pitch black as it gets. There are no views what so ever. In the morning I am awoken by the planes crossing low over the Jura en route to the airport.

    Just below the col is a tiny cabin. With a notice explaining how an employee of the electricity company was posted here. If the main lines came down with snow he would telephone the news so they could cut the power and then send help.

    Its a grey damp drizzly day. Although I have not cycled this col before, the next leg is not so far from Bellegarde and is familiar. I pass the old tramway and the impressive bridge of the rocks and then follow a lovely high route with views down to the main valley with railway and motorway - the one that links our corner to the rest of france and which I am happy to avoid. Its raining so no photos.

    I have a plan to camp at Lake Ginan… but when I get there the campsite says its full and only takes annual bookings. I call one or two hotels and they are all full, so its time to seek a discrete spot in the woods. It’s very steep and the woods have dense undergrowth. I am almost out of time and options when finally I find a small stream with benches and a walkway. Phew. I tuck in ready for a very wet evening and night.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Crossing the Ain
    Lunch timeLook hard and you might see the autumn crociiBlue sky in the afternoonTime to descend out of the Jura down to the plain

    Another wet day

    September 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Its another wet day. I pass a dry moment on a bench at the supermarket in Oyonnax whilst the heaviest rain passes through. Then in and out of showers as I bump my way out of the Jura. I cross the Ain (river) and climb another hill or 2 and at last its starting to ease. The sun even makes it out and the climbs are lessening and I have a descent into the plain to look forward to.

    After all that wet I have reserved myself a room for the night. Google somewhat alarmingly routes me across what is essentially a field. I concede it has a point, its a very efficient solution!    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Tournus Abbey
    The plain brings new architectural stylesSaint- AmourThats a threatening sky...Wood framed housesThis is a Sarrasine chimney. There are several signed on the roadsBourgogne (Burghundy)TournusTournus abbeyTournus is right on the edge of many boundaries

    To Tournus

    September 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This morning I will cross the countryside heading for Burgundy, the Saône river and the town of Tournus. The weather is threatening but not raining as yet.

    Saint Amour is a sleepy little town which I gently explore before getting on my way.
    The hills and woods of the Jura are replaced by rolling fields and pretty wood-framed houses. I pass through an area with road directions to various Sarrasine chimneys. Where else are chimneys signed, I ponder?Soon I roll into Tournus and am suddenly back amongst people. There are cyclists on the cycle route following the Saône, a campsite and an Abbey and tourists. Its a lovely place and its dry. I spend the late afternoon exploring the town and abbey and taking it gently.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    EleganceSuch a nice gear lever!This is just a single chain. Different gears pedalling forward to pedalling backward.Two chains each with 3 gears makes for 6 gears.This is how you break the cycling speed record - nearly 205 km/h6There is something very wrong with this bike. I know because I rode it. I will let you figure it out

    The bike museum

    September 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It would be churlish not to visit a bike museum that falls so close to my route. There is plenty to see. So many weird and wonderful mechanical concoctions.

    And after the visit, the chance to try some novel bikes. There is a modern penny farthing of modest size and a kangaroo bike (yup, you have to jump up and down to make the wheels go around). The third I leave you to admire from the photos :-). As I had not studied the bike before trying it out I was a bit taken by surprise!Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    The main square in Chalon sur Saône
    The SaôneThe tail wind silvers the treesArriving into Chalon sur SaôneNow following the Canal CentraleDinner time!

    Along the Saône

    September 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I am cycling along the Saône on a cycle path. Its dry and easy with a slight tail wind. Its like a different world. There are plenty of other cyclists around and it’s gently pretty.
    By lunchtime its getting overcast once more. I pay a visit to Chalon sur Saône wandering the streets. The cathedral is closed for repair so I skip that. One more leg, this time along the canal and I make it to the campsite just as the rain starts. Luckily there is a sheltered table where I can cook tonight.Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Chateau Sully
    An old railway station on the Voie Vert (cycle route). I wonder how it got this name.Someone has been decorating the cycle route. Mile after mile of it. A linear work of artA wet castle for a wet day

    Dripping in Chateau Sully

    September 26, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Its raining. The forecast is terrible. One of those days. I grit my teeth and get the sodden tent down and packed. This area of Burgundy has loads of cycle routes. Today I will largely be on old railway lines. Alone… its really quiet out (can’t imagine why). Pretty well just me, and a load of slugs.

    I arrive cold and sodden at Chateau Sully, arms in cormorant pose, dripping. The chateau is charmingly surrounded by a moat full of … water. The staff are very kind and find a dry spot for Maisie and a cup of tea for me. The interior tour allows me to dry off a little. Revised status: rather damp instead of dripping. The worst of the rain has passed by time I leave. I pedal on to Autun, a roman town and manage to pitch my tent between showers.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    At least they don't leave holes. But still. Yuck.
    1Roman gate AutunRoman amphitheater in the rain in AutunThe cathedralWith magnificent doorway.Lac settonAfter ratLeaking groundsheet

    Rain, wind, slugs and the rat

    September 27, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    There are slugs everywhere. Big yucky ones. They climb the tent, the water bottles, the pan and the panniers. I find them in my shoes and I can’t figure out how to stop it. Torch now required for inspection each time I exit the tent..

    Its wet and windy and I am fed up. I wait a while until the heavy morning shower is over and get the tent down whilst its just spitting. More showers as I visit the Autun Roman gates and amphitheatre and then the cathedral with its famous carved entrance.

    The ride is wet to damp, quiet wooded hilly and (in retrospect) a bit unmemorable. I finally make it to Lac Setton and pitch my tent in a brief moment of sunshine.

    And my companion for this evening? A small cheeky rat is poking his nose under the edge of the tent and gazing at me. I head up to a communal room with the food to cook dinner and return in the pouring rain to find a hole torn through my tent. The rat has helped himself to my emergency ration raisins. I am definitely not friends with him.

    The forecast had promised it would stop raining mid afternoon. It is still raining as I go to bed and it rains all night. The tent is now pitched in a puddle and the ground sheet declares unequivocally that it is no longer puddle-tight. I have had happier camping nights (to put it mildly)    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Old and new bridge
    A col!Views across MorvanOne of several lakes that I passA charming chateauAlso pretty from the far sideVézelay is now visible in the distance.Morning view from the Vézelay campsite

    Morvan natural park

    September 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I am damp, as is most of everything. But it is no longer raining.

    The route is across wooded hillsides with occasional lakes. It’s gently pretty but not overwhelming. It improves as a few rays of sunshine escape. I enjoy the quietness of the rolling hills and then the villages lower down.

    My objective is the village of Vézelay, one of the “plus beaux villages” of France. It is perched along the ridge of a small hill and is visible from a long way. It does however mean I have a nice little climb to end my day.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    The facade of Vézelay Basiilica
    InsideView from the villageThe main street in townCravant belfryCravant gateCanal du Nivernais (which runs next to the Yonne river)The noise reminds me of the Henley weirs.

    Vézelay

    September 29, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Vézelay is on one of the pilgrimage routes to St Jacques de Compostelo. It has a large basicilica with beautiful carvings over the entrances. The town is quiet at this time of year but has a special feel to it.

    From Vézelay I am heading to the small town of Auxerre. Part one is across the countryside and part two follows along the Yonne river and the Nivernais canal. There are several charming little villages on route. Its a dry but chilly day and a relatively easy ride.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Details of carving over church entrance
    Auxerre from the riverAuxerreMain squareThe clock towerDeep and intricately carved church doorThe cloisters

    Auxerre

    September 29, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Auxerre is a very nice town. Big enough to have most of what you could possibly need and small enough to feel accessible. It has an easy going quiet feel with many wonderful old buildings. And I am lucky enough to have a guided tour from my warm showers host.

    Auxerre is a rest day for me. I am using the warm showers scheme - a reciprocal hospitality scheme for cyclists that are on tour. I request if I can stay, they luckily say Yes. I turn up and they put me up. Its free.

    Dominque and Jacques are amazing. I have a room and bathroom for myself with nice view out over the town. The washing machine is soon on. The tent drying on the line. Water proofs, mattress and sleeping bags hung up to air. Dominique cooks all the meals.

    The next day Jacques supervises my bike adjustments and pumps my tyres. He also finds an old piece of plastic that we cut to size in the hope it will alleviate the ground sheet problem. I clean the inner tent and, later, with tips from Dominque, set about darning the rat holes. I am given a guided tour of Auxerre by Dominque and she picks up a few local delicacies to make sure I get the full experience. Its clear that despite often doing this, they do really enjoy having cyclists to stay. As well as giving me needed respite from the wet and a chance to get everything back in order, it is so heartwarming to spend time with such generous and trusting people.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    1After the rain. View over this wonderful church tower
    A low key chateau in the woodsLunchtime sheltering from the rainView from my window. It is raining. I am dry!Seven locks at Rogny les 7 éclusesPont canal heading over the Loire (which can just be seen on right)1The chimera. Cute!Gien on the LoireAn old prioryThe Loire and its embankmentsChateau Sully sur Loire1Inside the chateau

    Heading West

    October 2, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    From Auxerre there is an important choice. Head either clockwise or anticlockwise around Paris on route to the Channel. After much hesitation the choice is made. I will head west.

    The relatively rubbish weather is continuing. It ranges from heavily grey and threatening to raining. Still I am dry more than wet. Lucky me. The terrain is now relatively flat so its not too exhausting.

    I ride out of Auxerre through woods and fields. Its extremely quiet. I pass occasional low key chateaus and that is about it. Alain has spotted a small auberge on route and l arrive early and only modestly wet. It chucks it down until just before sunset. And it’s raining once more in the morning (though not for long).

    Today I join the canal du Briare at Rogny les 7 écluses. 7 disused locks that enabled a connection from the Loire to the Seine over a hill - sadly it used too much water to be sustainable. Eventually a more round about canal route was built. The canal heads towards the Loire before crossing above the river over a sturdy bridge and then joining another canal on the far side of the Loire. I get to cycle across the canal bridge!

    The Loire is huge and looking relatively full. The embankments (used at times by my cycle route) are high and a long way from the river. So much so that a fair bit of the time the river is not even visible. I pass various charming villages and buildings and my day ends at the Chateau of Sully sur Loire. By which time, guess what?, its raining once more.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    1These are onions. I remain baffled as to why they are arranged like this.
    Old railway bridge cycle way over the LoireAnyone got any ideas what is going on here?Canal d'Orleans. The defunct lock is a waterfall. I take a morning break here.The plain. Hidden in the grey is a wind farm.Better with a blue sky!

    Across the plain

    October 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    From the Loire I am heading for Chartres and its Cathedral. I follow the Loire a little further and then cross to meet the canal d’Orléans.

    After that its a huge open plain with lots of fields: sugar beet, maize, onions, a little spinach. I have a headwind and there are very few trees so little shelter. The plain is also used for windfarms, a couple of motorways and several big roads and it feels a bit run down. The day is heavily grey. The ride is very flat and a bit of a chore. As there is not much anywhere, its also hard to find a place to stay and its a bit of a stretch to reach the room I have booked for the night.

    Next morning there is more plain to do. But for the first time this trip the sky is blue and the sun is out in force. It helps a bit with the monotony. Soon the dual spires of the cathedral start to emerge and I am rolling into town.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Chartres cathedral and its flying buttresses.
    Medieval glassThe two towers. The older one is on the right and is a little lowerThe western gateDetails of the sculptures1The choirThe choir (detail)1The LabyrinthStructure of the flying buttressesThe southern gate

    Chartres

    October 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Chartres cathedral is impressive. It has 176 stained glass windows and the most medieval glass anywhere. It is quite overwhelming as each window contains many many tiny scenes. It would take weeks to take it all in. Then there are the sculptures all around the choir showing the lives of Mary and Jesus. Plus there are 3 huge carved entrances. Each with massive triple doorways. And then all the flying buttresses needed to support the walls and allow there to be so many windows.

    Last but not least there is a Labyrinth laid in the floor of the cathedral. It is cleared of chairs every Friday and open for those who want to take a mediative walk to the centre. Its a Friday so I am lucky and can partake.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    I really love the original and varied church towers
    I think its the gatehouseThe EureLouis XIV tried to build a pretty long canal to bring water to Versailles ... and failedHere is part of it1The school Dovecote1Old sign postsAn Eight-way cross roadsAbbey de TrappesPleasant and greenBack to timbered houses once moreOne castle two styles

    Into Normandy

    October 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    From Chartres the countryside improves. I follow the river Eure out to a very nice warm showers. A retired teacher who worked at the « special » school in the chateau just down the road, which aims to teach struggling youngsters a profession. She has three grown adopted Haitian children.

    The next day I wind my way past fields and small lakes hidden behind huge hedgerows and some very nice woodland. Alain is right. As I move towards Normandy the countryside becomes reminiscent of England. Cows, hedges, green fields, and many small lanes.

    I have found another warm showers for tonight which seems a good plan as its due to rain once more. This time it is a young family with a happy crawling baby. They have bought a large house that was once a coaching inn. It has a huge garden and a lot of potential. They will have their hands full.

    Sure enough the next morning I am off in the drizzle and cloud, observing that there would probably be a good view here or there if only it were visible. By the afternoon it is drier. At some point there is a shift in the architecture changing from only stone houses to a mix of timbered houses and stone houses. I follow a disused railway line for a while. Its easy… but enclosed between huge hedges. I prefer the roads which have more chance of a view. I reach the next accommodation before the next band of rain.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Arriving into Portsmouth: the Spinaker tower
    2An unimpressed seagullCoastal architectureDawn from the boatSunriseThe only cyclist on the ferrySouthsea castle originally built by Henry VIII

    The Channel

    October 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Its really not far to the coast now. I opt for a hillier route and bump my way along, arriving on the coast in time for some lunch. A dry morning :-).

    I have now made it all the way across France!! I am quite chuffed - but somehow the seagulls do not seem overly impressed.

    I have chosen to reach the coast a little bit east of the ferry port. This means I can take in a part of the Normandy coastline before catching the ferry tomorrow. The coast is built up but very deserted and off season. The architecture is quite something.

    I am booked in for another warm showers which I hope will help with the predawn start to get the ferry. Its raining gently once more by the time I arrive.

    Next morning its just a few km down to the boat and I am on my way, waving goodbye to France. I am sailing from Caen to Portsmouth and its an exciting and very nice way to arrive in the UK, especially after all those miles in the saddle.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    !
    Old Winchester HillOld Winchester HillHinton Ampner HouseJust imagine with all the curtains openInlaid tableAn amazing display for October (photo does not do justice)Hinton Ampner churchWatercress bedsThe watercress line

    Home soil

    October 10, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I enjoy a quiet catch up day in Portsmouth, visiting many more bike shops than I wanted to. I think my chain needs to be changed but, rather worryingly, opinions and measurements of wear vary widely. Looks like I will need to start measuring it myself so as to understand what is going on.

    Today I will cross the South Downs national park. After some climbing I divert to visit Old Winchester Hill. People have been present here for at least 4000 years and there are bronze age burial mounds and an iron age hill fort. The smell of the vegetation, the sheep, the quietness and the views are very evoking and I feel so much on home soil. Its a place where I too would want to live.

    Next I head for Hinton Ampner, a National trust property that I could almost imagine living in.

    Tonight I will camp next to the Water Cress Railway line. Its very quiet and cold and I wake to a frost on the tent and on Maisie.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    1Village pond dramas: the Ukrainian crocodile is munching on President Putin
    Halloween has come earlyCarved wooden church roofDouai AbbeyThere are many fords - over full streamsIn the rain with GlennOn the ridgewayDescending chain hill into Wantage1By the out of bank river Thames at New bridge

    Home territory

    October 11, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I am getting close to old haunts. Places within reach of day rides from Woodcote. Tonight I will stay with an old friend Richard who kindly provides all that is required for me to manage to break into his house until he is home. The tent gets dried, the washing is in the machine and I get to chat over a nice dinner.

    The next day I am heading up onto the Ridgeway. Glenn braves the rain and the hill and meets me at the top so he can join me for much of the day. Its great to have company after all those solo miles. From the Ridgeway, we descend chain hill and then cross the Thames plain. After the rain, the sun breaks through and we have afternoon tea by the Thames. Then its time to say goodbye. Leaving Glenn to pedal back home, I continue on to Witney on the edge of the Cotswolds.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Minster Lovell
    Minster Lovell Old HallAutumn berriesGreat TewAbout to descend from the CotswoldsThe stone gets more golden further north

    The Cotswolds

    October 13, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    The Cotswolds are such a beautiful part of the world. Golden coloured cottages, pretty villages, clear streams, rolling countryside.

    Somehow my route choice, trying to see the Cotswolds and yet make it to Leamington Spa by end of day is not the best. I visit Minster Lovell and then aim for Great Tew, a tiny pretty village. Disappointingly it is overwhelmed with visitors and parked cars. It’s a Sunday and there is a fair bit of traffic, even on the tiniest of roads - I regularly have to stop to let the traffic pass. By lunchtime its getting a bit grey and its quite chilly. I soon drop out of the Cotswolds and over less interesting flatter terrain and into Leamington.Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Carsington water. Built since Annabel’s map was printed - the last UK reservoir built (1991).
    Nigel and AnnabelThey are a bear loving familyKenilworth castleHS2 (the new highspeed railway line)Damp and greyAlmost a viewLunch in the bus stop

    The Midlands

    October 14, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I pass a quiet day of rest with dancing friends Annabel and Nigel. It is over 20 years since I last visited and a shockingly long time since I last saw them. Aside from the family that has arrived and grown up, not so much has changed. I am lent a pair of dancing shoes and spend a happy evening out Scottish dancing.

    There is a chunk of the UK to be crossed which is relatively built up and (ex)industrial between Birmingham, Coventry and Derby. There are many large conurbations to avoid and big A roads and motorways to cross. I manage to find relatively small roads to wend my way through. There are old colliery villages and quarries and chimneys. Many of them now greenified.

    Its not the most exciting territory and its grey and drizzly and not exciting. I camp as I can’t find anywhere else to stay. The kind and chatty campsite lady labels me as “A crazy mad cyclist”, I think she is probably right. Its suddenly surprisingly warm!

    Day 2 of the midlands is drizzly fog. The car headlights emerge from the grey. I find a noisy bus shelter for lunch and say hi in sympathy to the equally bedraggled sheep - those that are close enough for me to see them.

    Enough is enough, I head for the next campsite. Its next to the Pub. “I’d like to camp.” I say. “Really?” comes the surprised reply. “Well I assume all your rooms are full?” I say. “Yes” he says. “Well then…” and out I go to pitch in the sogg. The good bit is that there is a warm dry place to spend the evening. And I manage to sit at the same table as another solo traveler. So I get a little pleasant company too.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    I made it up! With Mam Tor behind
    Youlgreave old hostelLooking over the southern peaksWinnats pass. Its 20%Coming down into Hayfield where I camp

    The Peak District

    October 17, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    At last the SUN. ☀️ 🌞 ☀️. What a relief after all the grey. And a view. Lots of wondeful beautiful views everywhere. What a difference it makes. I am in the southern Peak District, one of the UK’s national parks.

    First call is Youlgreave. I stayed in Youlgreave hostel when I was a student. It’s in an old shop and each of the dormitories was labelled after one of the shop departments. The warden amused himself by having the women sleep in “Mens Underwear”. One of the most memorable dorm names ever. Its now a private hostel and was not open.

    Next up is Bakewell. The Peak District is hilly and steep so serious work is required. I arrive and indulge in a slice of Bakewell tart :-). Bakewell is a very touristy town these days.

    Then its up and over to Castleton and the Winnats pass. On my way, I am joined by a friendly cyclist who slows to chat beside me. How nice. The first time on my whole trip. Winnats pass goes under and past Mam Tor and is graded at a serious 20%. There is a fair bit of traffic and I am not sure whether I can make it (so no stopping for photos as I may not manage to restart) - but slowly and surely Maisie and I hang in there.

    Now we have moved from the softer southern area into the Dark Peak. The higher wilder moors. I have great views all afternoon. Its absolutely wonderful. A kind elderly camper offers me a cup of tea when I arrive on the campsite that evening. Even better is a chair to sit in whilst I drink the tea. Its so noticeable how small kindnesses have increased as I head North. And it does really help.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Well on my way up the climb
    First hill of the dayI am about to cross the central spine of the Pennines (the horizon)The highest point of my UK journeyI made itCommemorating King Charles coronation. I can see a very long wayA very memorable way to cross the M621My hilliest and steepest day of the whole trip. The red and black sections hurt.

    Over the Pennines

    October 18, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It promises to be a glorious day. Today I will cross the Pennines, the range of hills that form the central spine of the north of england and into southern scotland. The tops are wild moorland, below this stone walled fields. Often sheep farms.

    I have a lot of climbing to do today, with several really steep parts. First is to cross the pennines from west to east. After that I will head north following the moor edge where I can. This avoids the busy roads in the valleys but requires a lot of climbing.

    The scenery and landscape is devastatingly beautiful in the sunshine. Of course I am biased. But still, after all those trips to far places, this one strikes home in a deep way.

    The M62 is the motorway that crosses the Pennines from Leeds to Manchester. It is a motorway like no other passing high across the moors. At one point the two sides of the motorway separate, with a sheep farm in between. There is a cycle route that passes under the motorway on the moor. It requires cycling along the reservoir dam wall, sandwiched between the water and the motorway.

    The last few miles, I am really feeling the climbs. The sun has now gone and the campsite is at the top of the hill. I take the final left, encouragingly labelled as “steep lane” and crawl into the campsite as the rain starts.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Warley reservoir (fancy sailing here?)
    Climbing up to Warley moorHaworthNearly there- Ilkley moorFrom Ilkley moorpicnicking on the topAutumn colours as I head across towards Otley

    Yorkshire

    October 19, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Let me tell you a little about Yorkshire. The yorkshire folk are hardy no-nonsense people. If you want to head up the hill, well you head straight up, even if its steep. No messing around with hairpin bends and the like. It can be well aired in Yorkshire. So a good hill gets the blood running. And what do you call such a road? Steep lane or hill road seems a good plan. And if you are going up, well not to worry if the road suddenly goes steeply down for a bit - gives a bit of breathing space after all. Also characteristic is the warmth, friendliness and kindness that is evident. Its very noticeable that I receive more kindness and have more conversations and contact here.

    I wake to rain, mist and cloud and not the promised sunshine. I am hopeful it will soon clear, and by late morning it is once more a nice day. This will be another day of hills. First I climb onto the moor above Keithley and rather surprisingly find that the reservoir on the moor is used for the Halifax Sailing Club. Then its down again and I pause in Haworth. Home of the Brönte sisters - who wrote some of my favourite novels. Its a steep cobbled town, full of tea shops and tourists.

    Next up onto Ilkley moor. Now I am in childhood territory. Its not so far from Leeds where I grew up. Its a wonderful day to be up in this beautiful place. Luckily its getting a little easier as I head down through Otley and then over to Harrogate for the night where I lodge with another cyclist.    Read more

  • AliceAlainThe Raining (a journey Home)Traveler
    Drying in the sun
    Mum and Dad

    The wild Home Coming

    October 20, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    This will be the last leg of my trip. I will finish when I reach my parents in York. With the end of season weather, the increasingly cold, early and long nights, and the imminent seasonal closure of the remaining campsites, it is clear that it is time to put the tent away.

    After a trip which has, on the whole, had relatively challenging damp/wet/grey weather it somehow seems fitting to end on a wild and wet note. Storm Ashley is on its way and I have wind and rain to look forward to.

    I study the rain and wind forecasts carefully and adjust my route in case the wind is too bad (leaving a downwind railway station exit option). The planning pays off. I get the headwind part over first thing, and by the time the wind worsens it is at my back for the final few miles. The rain is scattered so I am wet but not drowned.

    I roll into York before noon into the warmth and dry of my parents house. Wet luggage is safely stowed in the bath. It is time to rest and enjoy being safe, warm, still and cared for at Home.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 20, 2024
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