Kimberley Walkabout

July - August 2018
A 15-day adventure by Alphadog's Travels
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  • On the road again

    July 26, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    On the road again! This time I am travelling with Pop and we are heading up to Broome and then on to the Kimberleys for a 14 day tour of all the sights.

    Today I arrived in Perth ahead of our flight to Broome tomorrow.

    First update comes tomorrow from Broome.
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  • Beautiful Broome

    July 27, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We were in a 7.30 am flight out of Perth to Broome a mere 2 and a bit hours away. The Virgin flight was an A320 and it was pretty full.

    First impressions of Broome: is nice and warm but not hot or humid, it is very green, there are lots of 4 wheel drives and caravans, and it is a very relaxed town. The houses are interesting with many of them having walls of corrugated iron and no gutters on their roofs - this is a cyclone prone area. The central business district of the town is called Chinatown as there were a lot of Chinese here working in the pearling industry many years ago. The airport is located just next to Chinatown so there is a steady stream of planes flying overhead to various locations and helicopters taking workers to the offshore rigs.

    Pop and I did a wander around town and then did the Jetty to Jetty self guided walking tour. The bus service was pretty easy to work out they just did a loop around town and ran every half an hour or so.

    Early Broome was very much based on the pearling industry and there are many big pearl shops and galleries in town. In World War 2 it was attacked 4 times by the Japanese mainly because it has a large sheltered bay, called Roebuck Bay, which is ideal for landing flying boats that were evacuating people from Indonesia ahead of the Japanese advance. Now it still has a pearling industry but also has lots of tourists.

    Thanks to the shape of the continental shelf off the coast the tidal movements here are huge, the 7th largest in the world, so wharves have to be very big and long to get out to deep enough water.

    The famous Cable Beach was the place to be to watch the sun go down over the Indian Ocean, along with a few hundred others ... and some camels!
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  • Easy day

    July 28, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We were up early to check out the lunar eclipse and associated blood moon. Unfortunately the clouds did not cooperate but we managed to get glimpses of the moon and Mars. Watching it happen over Cable Beach was pretty good anyway.

    We caught the bus into town and had an enormous breakfast followed by a trip to the Visitors Centre to book in for the obligatory Cable Beach camel ride this afternoon. We also found that the Court House Markets were on and very popular.

    In the afternoon we went up to Cable Beach again and found our camel team. My noble steed was called Wangi and was a fine specimen. Pop and I each had our own camel to ride and it was a good trip up and down the beach.

    In the evening we met up with our tour group and they took us into town again to the Mangrove Hotel to see the Staircase to the Moon. This is caused by the rising full moon reflecting off the mud flats of Roebuck Bay. Very good to see and most of Broome was there watching.

    There are 17 people on our tour as well as our driver JDub and tour guide Phil Schubert. All our fellow travellers are Australian.

    Today’s trivia. Roebuck Bay was named by William Dampier in 1699 when he was mapping this section of the coast in HMS Roebuck

    Tomorrow our tour begins in earnest and we are travelling north to Cape Leveque.
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  • Cape Leveque

    July 29, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It was an early departure from Broome heading to Cape Leveque. The landscape along the way was scrub with a few small trees. This area is like the Northern Territory in that there are few really large trees as the termites tend to get to them.

    Speaking of termites the termite mounds are different to the ones in the NT, these are flatter and wider than the cathedral or fan type.

    First stop was the town of Beagle Bay, named of course after the ship Charles Darwin was on when he sailed through this area. Beagle Bay is a small aboriginal settlement that was originally settled by a group of German missionaries around 100 years ago. They built the stunning white church that is famous for being decorated with mother of pearl shells. The church is obviously a key part of the community and is very well looked after.

    Next we were on to Cape Leveque. This is the northern most point of the Dampier Peninsula and is a popular camping destination. The area is in a lot of West Australian tourist photos as it has very red rocks and white sands, see the photos below.

    After lunch we went to Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm to learn about how they cultivate and harvest pearls. This area of WA is home to the World’s largest pearl producing oyster 'Pinctada Maxima' and Cygnet Bay Pearls harvest wild oysters as well as breed their own.

    Cygnet Bay produce both cultured and natural pearls with the largest they have found being 22.4mm big and worth about $2 million. The company has been run by the same family for a number of years and has a large operation in King Sound.

    After the pearl farm tour it was back to the Kooljaman Centre at Cape Leveque to take some sunset photos and dinner. Our accommodation was in a tent with an ensuite - the tent was set up on a covered platform with a balcony at one end and a small kitchen and bathroom at the other. Very comfortable!
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  • Horizontal Waterfalls

    July 30, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Dawn at Cape Leveque was almost as impressive as the sunset with the sun reflecting off the red rocks on the east beach. After an early breakfast we backtracked from Cape Leveque to the main highway again and headed towards Derby.

    Derby is a town of about 3000 people and was the site of a large live cattle export operation until about the 1970s when it shifted to Fremantle. It is one of the big cities of the Kimberley as there are only 3 towns with a population over 2000 - Derby, Broome, and Kununurra.

    We stopped at the port for lunch and then headed to Derby Airport for our flight to Talbot Bay and the Horizontal Falls in an amphibious Cessna Caravan.

    There are actually 2 sets of Horizontal Falls in Talbot Bay, the outer falls which are about 12m across and the inner ones which are about 7m across, both are about 40m deep. They are caused by a small gap in the rocks that restricts the tidal flows in and out of the inner and middle bays. The inner falls are the smallest and so the most dangerous with a difference in water height of up to 3 metres, the outer ones are wider and so only get to about 1 metre or so difference. The water past both falls was very rough with lots of whirlpools and waves. In the photos below the dark stain on the rocks shows how high the tide can get, about 11m.

    We landed on the bay and took a fast boat ride through the falls which was loads of fun. They then took the boat on a tour of some of the nearby bays, the rocks in this area are amazing and clearly very old. It is mostly sandstone but there are some areas of limestone as well.

    Our accommodation was on a house boat that was part of a system of pontoons, jetties, helipads, and swimming cages. It was a really well set up. During the wet season they move all the components up into one of the nearby creeks where it is well protected from cyclones.

    There is a large population of Tawny Nurse Sharks in Talbot Bay. These are bottom feeding sharks that don’t mind a free hand out! They do have a lot of small teeth but don’t usually attack humans, provided humans don’t do silly things.

    The photos below are a few of the 300+ I ended up taking during our stay.
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  • Chopper ride!

    July 31, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We were up early as we were booked in for a 6am helicopter ride over the falls and Talbot Bay. My first ever helicopter ride was in a 5 seater Bell and I have to say it was excellent. The bloke flying it was quite young but he flew us around all the sights and back to the pontoon, definitely one of the highlights of the trip, see the photos below.

    After the chopper we had another fast boat ride through the falls before getting back on the sea plane to get back to Derby. This time the inner falls were too high at about a 2m difference so he couldn’t take the boat through but we did a few trips through the lower falls.

    In all our visit to the falls was excellent. They are in a very remote part of the country and yet the whole logistical process of getting us there, showing us the falls, and putting us up for the night was all very professional and well done.

    Once back in Derby we were on the Gibb River Road heading to Mount Hart Wilderness Retreat which is kind of of the home base for the touring company we are using.

    Along the way we stopped at the Prison Boab Tree just outside Derby, Queen Victoria’s Head (a rock outcrop that looks like Queen Victoria’s Head!), Lennard River crossing, and a lookout in the King Leopold Ranges.

    This area is fascinating from a geological perspective. About 100 million years ago it was all underwater and it has been slowly pushed up. Queen Victoria’s Head is actually in the Napier ranges which was once an offshore reef, past that was a shallow sea before the King Leopold Ranges which was the old shore line. The whole area has remained remarkably intact since that time with few major geological changes just the effects of erosion.

    Mount Hart was originally a cattle station but there is a big problem raising cattle in the Kimberley and that is the problem of distance. The cattle do survive and fatten on the land but moving them to Derby involved walking them over very hard terrain for days at a time meaning their condition quickly deteriorated and many died on the way. The land is very rugged and even walking over it is difficult as it is rocky and uneven.

    The Mount Hart homestead is now a tourist retreat with campsites, on site tents, and services for people to stay. Pop and I are sharing a tent with an ensuite bathroom attached, all very comfortable!
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  • Bell Gorge

    August 1, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we went on a drive from Mount Hart to Bell Gorge for a bit of a swim. It was about a 2 hour drive there from the Lodge but well worth the visit. We parked the bus and walked about 1km down to the falls.

    There are a number of gorges and falls in the Kimberley and this one was pretty popular. I know I have said it before but the geology of this area is stunning. The ruggedness of the terrain and amazing rocky outcrops make this area fascinating.

    Originally the landmass that would become Australia was separate to the Kimberley but about 560 million years ago the Kimberley continent crashed into the Australia continent giving rise to the mountains and terrain we can see today.

    Bell Gorge has a swimming pool at the top and you can also walk down to the lower level and swim there as well. It was very refreshing on a hot day.

    After a few hours swimming we made it back up to the bus and back to the lodge for a couple of beers and dinner. A great way to spend a day!
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  • Dolerite Gorge and the Barker River

    August 2, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was a quieter day as we have a long way to go tomorrow. This morning we went to a gorge close to the Mount Hart homestead for a cooling swim. It has been fantastic weather so far with days getting up to about 30 degrees and cooling at night but not getting cold.

    Today’s gorge is called the Dolerite Gorge because it formed in a dolerite plug. The mostly sandstone structure of the Kimberley has a number of these dolerite plugs where molten lava pushed up between cracking and faults in the sandstone. The results are patches of black dolerite rock dotting the landscape where little vegetation grows as the black rock makes it too hot for most plants. The dolerite is harder than the sandstone so it is left behind when the other rock erodes away.

    The gorge has a few swimming pools and you can walk quite a way up to its source. All up a good morning’s activity.

    After lunch we then went a couple of kilometres in the other direction from the homestead to the Barker River for a very refreshing swim. They tell us there may be a couple of freshwater crocks in the Barker but they are harmless (hope they know that!). Anyway we didn’t see any so no dramas.

    The evening’s dinner was very special. Our tour guide Phil was banging on all day about us going out for dinner and that we had to get dressed up - dunno how we were going to go anywhere it is 50kms over very rough road just to get to the front gate of the homestead. Anyway we hopped on the bus and it took us to the top of a nearby hill where they had a table with lanterns and a bbq. The chef here is excellent and it was a really nice dinner and desert as the sun went down. A very memorable evening.
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  • Gibb River Road

    August 3, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was a big drive. We had to get from Mount Hart Lodge to Home Valley Station and while it isn’t a huge distance, about 450kms, the Gibb River Road is very rough.

    The Road was originally made for cattle transport and while it is still used for that it is also popular with tourists. Most people on the road are grey nomads with their 4 wheel drives there were only a couple of other buses like ours. The Road itself is closed for much of the year due to the wet season floods but during the dry it is graded and then reopened. The bus handled it OK but the corrugations meant it vibrated furiously for most of the trip making it impossible to talk to anyone as it was so noisy.

    We were on our way early and the first stop was at Galvans Gorge to stretch the legs. Today was also the first real cool morning we have had but it soon warmed up. Galvans Gorge is pretty good, not as spectacular as Bell Gorge.

    While the country looks very dry there is actually a lot of water around with rivers and creeks either still flowing or with large pools. We crossed the Durack and a number of other rivers on our trip. There were also loads of wild cattle around which you had to be careful of as they tend to wander onto the road.

    We have seen some local wildlife during our trip, a rock wallaby at Bell Gorge, dingoes around Mount Hart, more wallabies around Mount Hart, and lots of birds. Unfortunately at Home Valley Station we saw our first cane toad.

    Home Valley Station is run by the Government as an indigenous training area and is hugely popular with loads of campers and holiday makers camping or staying in the motel style accommodation. It is located on the Pentecost River flood plain and is a working cattle station. On the road into the Station we stopped to watch the sun set on the Cockburn Ranges which turned red and orange as the sun went below the horizon.

    Dinner was steak (of course) and it was excellent. We were in the motel style accommodation for the night and our room even had its own insect-control officer (a gecko). Tomorrow we are on to Kununurra.
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  • Wyndham and Kununurra

    August 4, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We left Home Valley Station early and stopped at the iconic Pentecost River crossing which is also used in numerous promotional photos for the Kimberleys. Fortunately a couple of 4 wheel drives cooperated and we managed to get a few photos.

    Next stop was El Questro Station which is one of the (very few) luxury accommodation options on the Gibb River Road, Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman stayed there when they were filming the movie Australia and took a helicopter out to the film site each day. We didn’t actually go into the Station accommodation but did go to one of the popular springs on the property: Zebedee Springs.

    These springs are amazing, they are geothermally heated and never run dry. They spring out of the rocks and flow between livistonia palms with a backdrop of stunning red cliffs. The springs are very popular with lots of people visiting when we were there but El Questro Management close the springs to non-guests at 12 noon each day so guests can visit without the plebs.

    After visiting the springs we headed back to the Gibb River Road and something we have all been looking forward to - the end of the gravel and its corrugations! Finally we could hear ourselves think! After a couple of kilometres we reached the end of the Gibb River Road.

    We turned left and headed towards Wyndham for lunch. We drove up to the top of the Bastion Range to the 5 rivers lookout to take in the amazing view. Wyndham is on the Cambridge Gulf and used to be a major port but changes in the cattle and iron ore industry have meant it has lost a lot of its main businesses and so is a shadow of its former glory.

    The 5 rivers lookout gives panoramic views across the flood plains and Cockburn Ranges. The Town actually moved from its original location as it didn’t have enough room so the original town became known as Wyndham Port and the new town was built 3 kms away.

    After lunch we headed into Kununurra to check in to our cabins at the Ivanhoe Caravan Park and to get organised for our afternoon cruise on Lake Kununurra. The Lakes were created in the early 1960s to try and harness the massive amounts of water flowing through the Ord River system during the wet season. The initial attempt at an irrigation system was a bit of a failure as they planted cotton then found there is a local moth that eats cotton so farmers ended up having to spray every 3 days which was of course unviable. Next they tried rice but the bird life here ensured that was not going to work. To their credit they are now trying a genetically modified cotton plus sugar cane and chia which seem to be working a little better. The amount of water going into the ocean each year is staggering so it is a good idea to try and harness it.

    Anyway dinner was excellent and the sunset was fantastic. Another great day in the Kimberley!
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