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  • Day 195

    30.03 Day 195 . . . End Of The Island

    March 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    As normal we didn’t wake or get up too early. Once ready and our the door we had decided to head to the very north end of the island which comes under Saint-Denis d’Oléron but is even further north than that. We started off hugging the west side of the island, but due to some road works we were forced back to travel the main route, effectively up the centre of the island and finally along the D734.
    We finally parked up at our destination which we knew had a lighthouse as it centre piece. Once out of Rox and walking to the coastal path about 75m away we saw the views - truly breath taking. We had a fab day for it, but even in foul weather these views of the rough Atlantic must be spectacular. We walked along the north east side of the peninsula and then down some steps to a rocky beach area. Due to the time of year there was hardly anyone about which made this place even more special - in summer we guessed it is probably manic busy.
    Having taken untold photos we returned unto the footpath and along to the general area of the lighthouse Phare de Chassiron. There were a couple of interesting artefacts near to the lighthouse - an example of a fish trap still in use around the island and also a cross on a plinth made from iron chain.
    The lighthouse first commenced as a first fire tower, at 33m high, was built in 1685 on the orders of Colbert in order to mark the entrance to the Pertuis d'Antioche and thus guide the ships which joined the Charente estuary to join the military arsenal. of Rochefort. The increase in maritime traffic, the modernization of beaconing and the retreat of the cliff led to the construction of a new lighthouse between 1834 and 1836. Its strategic position and its height of 46m allows the Chassiron lighthouse to effectively warn sailors of the approach to the coast and the dangerous rock banks of the Pertuis d'Antioche.
    Originally entirely white, the lighthouse covered its black bands in 1926 in order to increase its visibility distance and limit confusion with its gray neighbor, the Whales lighthouse. The optic, made up of eight lenticular panels, was electrified in 1930 and today operates with a 250 W metal halide bulb.
    The departure of the last keeper dates back to 1998. Since then, the lighthouse has been fully automated and controlled by the Lighthouses and Beacons office.
    After walking around the lighthouse and viewing the gardens that surrounded it we entered a small shop that is onsite and purchased some salt - Set de Mer d’Oléron . . . lovely white Sea Salt made locally - oh, and a salt pot and spoon.
    All the other small shops and the restaurant were closed, again we were thankful as next week and onwards it is likely to be packed with tourists.
    We drove from the lighthouse and down to Saint-Denis looking for a restaurant - we didn’t even stop, there was nothing really to be had. We continued down and decided to stop at Saint-Pierre as there was likely to be a lot more choice.
    Arriving at Saint-Pierre we parked up on street and found a restaurant called Le Zing which we entered and ordered a plat du jour of cold plateau de charcuterie (meat board) for starter and bavette steak for the main. Both stuffed we rolled out of the restaurant and walked to the shop with the earrings that Tre had spotted yesterday. We knew it would be closed as it wasn’t 3pm so we stopped and had a soft drink in a bar sitting in the sunshine.
    At 3pm we walked to the shop - it was shut!! For what reason we know not as the shop door sign indicated it should be open.
    We walked some of the other shops and waddled into another shop called Detour de Plage - which was lovely, in fact better than the one we had been heading to. I happened to see a pair of earrings that I thought Tre would like and I wasn’t wrong. Firmly in our grasp we toured the rest of the shop before buying the earrings and a keyring for me.
    From Saint-Pierre we toddled along in Rox and found our way to an Intermarché - just to buy some nibbles for this evening as neither of us were in the mood for eating out tonight . . . still stuffed.
    Back at the hotel we collapsed. Balcony doors open although a little windy it was still sunny. We spent the remainder of the late afternoon chatting and lazing around. I did consider another visit to the pool but it was over 20m away down the corridor!
    We agreed on a relatively early night as tomorrow was our last day, which we wanted to make the most of as well as driving home.
    On our return to the hotel in the afternoon Tre had happened upon an update from the weekends demonstrations at Sainte Soline . . .
    France launches investigation after man gravely injured at water protest
    French prosecutors said Wednesday they were probing the case of a man seriously wounded at a demonstration over access to water, after his family filed a criminal complaint.
    The 32-year-old has been fighting for his life in a coma since Saturday's thousands-strong environmental protest against a new "mega-basin" gathering water for irrigation in the western Deux-Sèvres region. The probe was prompted by his parents, who filed a complaint alleging attempted murder as well as the prevention of access by first responders.
    Protest organisers said Tuesday that the man, from the southwestern city Toulouse, was seriously wounded when he was struck in the head by a tear gas grenade fired by police. "People close to him are determined to bear witness and uncover the truth about what happened," they added.
    The case is being investigated by military prosecutors in the western city of Rennes who have jurisdiction over France's gendarmes – police officers belonging to the armed forces.
    Warlike scenes of Saturday's clashes between around 5,000 protesters and 3,200 police in the open fields made headlines over the weekend.
    Fielding helicopters, armoured vehicles and water cannon, security forces fired thousands of tear gas grenades and dozens of other projectiles in a response the DGGN police authority described as "proportionate to the level of threat".
    Authorities say officers were faced with "an unprecedented explosion of violence" and targeted with Molotov cocktails and fireworks.
    But Human Rights League (LDH) observers on the scene said police made "unrestrained and indiscriminate use of force" against all the demonstrators, rather than targeting violent groups or individuals.
    AFP journalists saw police begin using tear gas as soon as the marchers arrived.
    Prosecutors in nearby Niort counted 47 wounded police and seven demonstrators requiring medical aid, including two in danger for their lives – one of whose condition has since improved.
    Protest organisers complained of 200 wounded, 40 seriously including one person who lost an eye.
    In an audio recording published by daily Le Monde, a member of the ambulance service told the LDH that "commanders on the ground" were holding them back from the scene, without identifying individuals.
    The service said on Twitter Tuesday that "sending an ambulance with oxygen into an area with clashes is not recommended given the risk of explosion".
    Deux-Sèvres' prefect – the top government official in the region – wrote in a Tuesday report to the interior ministry that it was "very difficult" for ambulances to reach wounded demonstrators as "the clashes had not stopped or were starting again".
    Interior Minister Gerald Darmanin has responded to the clashes by vowing to ban one of the associations that organised the protests.
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