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Eastern Europe
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Eastern Europe

Travel through Bulgaria, Romania and Poland with short visits to Serbia, Hungary and Slovakia Läs mer
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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    Graduation Tower is salt water cascading over branches to improve respiration.

    Day 70 POLAND Zakopane

    25 maj, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We started the hike and it was so windy with our hayfever playing up, we abandoned the hike and sat at the Graduation Tower. Graduation Tower is made up of a framework of tightly packed blackthorn branches with natural mineral rich brine pumped to the top and trickles down the branches. This creates a fine mineral salt mist that clears the respiratory allergens and obstruction. Sitting there for 45mins despite it being so windy cleared our hayfever.

    We had the first ever experience of going to a spa, sauna, jacuzzi, salt tower and steam room where we had to not use textiles.
    It was weird to begin with. We realised that other patrons were very respectful and would move to a different space to give privacy. We then settled in and it was actually a nice experience in the end. There aren't any photos as the reception collects your phone before you walk into the spa.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    St Florian Gate between ancient Krakow and Florence just outside the gate named by one of the Kings.Massive Breakfast at Gossip CafeThe Churches were also defensive forts as arches could shoot arrows from the different levels.There were so many school groups and and line was too long so we didn't go in.Franciscan monasteryIndian dinner, the serve was so big we took half back to have for breakfast.

    Day 72 POLAND Krakow

    27 maj, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We started our day with a massive breakfast even massive after we shared the one Polish Breakfast. Come to think of it, we usually have 2 meals a day since starting our trip. Most of our meals consisted of shared main and sometimes shared entree or dessert. This is because portions were big except at Japanese establishments.
    Lunch was a shared plate of Pierogi (dumplings stuffed with, meat, cheese, potato, cabbage and mushrooms (our favourite).
    We were supposed to try the pickled Herring but were too full after perogis.

    After breakfast we joined the free walking tour of Old Town. The guide was informative and quite hilarious. He said Poles loved to complain so you never asked a Pole how they were. He added that they end their complains with " it could be worse".

    Krakow was made up of 5 seperate kingdoms that were unified by King Kiasemiesk the Great III. There were allot of Polish Kings called Kiasemiesk, and that confused us.

    The defensive walls were so intimidating that it was only once that the king could not defend Krakow. In that instance, he "invited" the Swedish invaders in 1655 to loot and ravage. As a result, Kraków was not destroyed nor burnt, and survived that invasion intact. It was also intact after the world war because it was chosen as the administrative capital of Nazi General Government. Although Krakow survived the war intact, the Jews and intellectuals were literally wiped out in death camps and the harsh conditions in the ghettos.

    Finished our day with an Indian dinner.    Läs mer

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    Day 73 POLAND Salt Mine and Jewish tour

    28 maj, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    You are charged an extra local dollar when purchasing water in Romania and Poland. You then get 50c for each bottle, if the supermarket has a bottle recycling machine. You can use the use voucher after recycling to purchase items. The recycling machines are only found in big supermarkets like Kaufland, Lidl and Carrefour.

    We visited the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Operated from 1326-1986. The mine is so huge that the visit only took us through 2% of the salt labyrinth. There are 9 levels, 245 km of galleries and is 327m underground at the deepest point.
    26 shafts were struck in Wieliczka and 9 million m³ of post-excavation voids were drilled. King Kiasemiesk the Great amazed his riches in salt. With this wealth, and was said to be the King came to a Poland made of wood and left a Poland made of stone.
    At the end of the Middle Ages, 300–350 people worked in Wieliczka, and the annual production of salt reached 7 000 –8 000 tonnes. Horses that worked in the mine stayed for 25 years underground.
    We then went to the renormous Graduation Tower and sat for 45mins. Really cleared the respiratory system.

    After the salt mine we went to Hana Sushi Michelin Bib restaurant. The food was fine Japanese. Very delicious and fine. It was inexpensive with the total meal of sushi, sashimi and beef tartar bibimbup and a green tea cheesecake costing under $80 aud.

    We then did am evening walking tour of the Jewish Quarter. It was so sad to hear the dehumanization of the Jewish people Their numbers went from 75,000 from 1937 to less than 1700 in 1945. It was not only in the death camps where the Jews were murdered. Executions were done in the streets, and the conditions in the ghettos were appalling. An apartment for 4 persons pre war, would have 16-20 persons. They were given 320 calories of food per person per week.
    He finished with a lovely story about the survivors. A little girl and her dogs, and a boy whose father smuggled him away through the barbed fence. The boy was Roman Polanski.

    We enjoyed the Japanese so much, we returned after the walking tour for a light snack.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    It was supposed to be a little snack of potato cakes.Church of PeaceZamek KarpnikiAsparagus soupAsparagus ravioliRed fish with mash potatoStrawberry tart

    Day 74 POLAND Lower Silesia Castles

    29 maj, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left early for our very long drive to our castle stay at Zamek Karpniki.

    On the way we stopped at Zamek Moszna castle. It is built in 3 distinct chronological stages late 1800s to 1900s. It had 99 turrets, 365 rooms built in Baroque, Neo Gothic and Neo Renaissance Style.

    Our next stop was a Lutheran Church of Peace. It is the most ornate Lutheran church we've come across. Not very peaceful though because there was a looped narration in German played over and over. Also lots of wires and musicians setting up. Not a place for quiet contemplation.

    Our castle has a small spa but the steam room was under repair so there was only the Finnish sauna and a thermal spring hot tub. Also included in our package was a 4 course surprise meal. It was surprisingly delicious.

    For 3 days in Krakow, we had Thai, Indian and Japanese. We did not have any Polish food in Krakow except for a snack of perogis (dumplings).  We have found that Polish food had not matched up to what we've gotten used to in Romania. We will give the cuisine here another chance, but it has high standards to meet and huge boots to fill after Romania.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    Breakfast buffet with lots of salads
    We finally had a close encounter with a bearBeef tartarWild garlic soupSalmon with artichokes and cous cousDuck Breast with gnocchiNY cheese cake

    Day 75 POLAND Zamek Karpniki

    30 maj, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This castle was a 14th century Prussian fortress that became the royal residence. It was originally known as Vishbach.
    In 1475, Castellan Henryk von Czirn expanded the early building into a more significant castle structure consisting of a tower and residential wings.
    In 1593 The estate was severely damaged by fire but was quickly rebuilt and expanded into a Renaissance-style residence by the Kanitz family.
    In 1822 Prince Wilhelm von Hohenzollern (brother of Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III) bought the property and made a Neogothic Makeover by renowned royal architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel who helped redesign the castle into a stunning English Neo-Gothic palace. A water moat and stone arch bridge were added to complete the fairytale look. Silesian Elysium created a sprawling English landscape park that connected Karpniki with neighboring royal estates into one vast landscape garden.
    During the 19th century, the castle welcomed prominent elite figures, including Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, King Friedrich Wilhelm IV, and various European aristocrats.
    During World War II, the German administration used Karpniki to hide priceless museum collections and art plundered from occupied territories.
    After 1945, the region became part of Poland. The castle was used for various purposes, including a school, a colonial holiday home, and a hospital. It was eventually abandoned and fell into severe ruin.
    In 2009, a private investor, Jacek Masior purchased the crumbling castle and began a meticulous, multi-year renovation process.

    Our hayfever was so bad, we decided not to venture out of the castle today. This would officially be our first proper rest day.
    We had a buffet breakfast, a spa, then a 5 course degustation dinner.
    Very decadent and restful day. Did only 890 steps today.

    Since I'm in Poland and they complain alot, this castle provides 2 flat rectangular non supportive pillows. When we asked for 4 pillows before we arrived, we were given 2 rectangle and 2 tiny square flat pillows smaller than the average cushion. When we asked for 2 more pillows they said the castle was full and no more pillows available yesterday. However they rang to say 2 pillows had come available today and sent up 2 tiny flat square additional pillows. .... but it could be worse.    Läs mer

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    Tournament programTeardrop shaped towerWe elicited a very loud exclamation from this group after they asked us where we were from.Wild boarMa la soup dinner

    Day 76 POLAND Wroclaw

    31 maj, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had 2 stops before saying goodbye to our car at the Wroclaw airport and catching taxi to our Wroclaw accommodation.

    Our first stop was the Castle Bolkow that was holding a mediaeval tournament. It was interesting to watch the sword fight between knights, listen to mediaeval instrument, and walking around the tear drop tower castle. We were concerned that it'll be too busy, and we'd not be able to see anything. However it was a lovely crowd, enough to be festive but leaving plenty of space to wander and view comfortably.

    The second was the Ksiaz Castle which we only looked at the outside and surrounds but not the inside. The most spectacular exterior is still the Mozsna Castle.

    We just had to drop off the paperwork and the key into a box at the Europcar counter. It was so easy.    Läs mer

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    The artist and his self portraitSour rye with bacon and sorrel soup

    Day 77 POLAND Wroclaw

    1 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A quick visit to the Tagowa Markethall for coffee and breakfast off a shared focaccia sandwich before we joined the free walking tour of the Old Town.
    The guide told us a good way to remember the pronunciation of Wroclaw is "what's love" but with a rrwhatslove.
    The tour was very informative and with good history of Wroclaw. Interestingly enough, Wroclaw had been a German city until 1945. Wroclaw was not part of the second republic of Poland from 1918-1939. There is essentially only 2 generations of Polish people that were moved in after the Germans were moved out.

    We did the Dwarf and Communist tour in the afternoon. We expected more communist aspect but the dwarfs dominated the tour. Wroclaw has a mascot of dwarfs. The first dwarf commemorated the anti-communism Orange Alternative Movement . The idea took on, and now there are dwarfs for every reason. At the last count, there were over 1300 dwarfs in Wroclaw and now in other European countries and even in Washington DC.

    We finished our day with a wonderful dinner at Ida Kuchnia i wino, a Michelin bib restaurant.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    City council dwarfFiremen and guard for the gates of hellItalian dwarfWiesbaden present to Wroclaw dwarfOne time Mayor of WroclawDrunk dwarfs

    Fraction of the Dwarfs found

    1 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The dwarfs went viral and more and more started appearing. The government tried to stop the spread of dwarfs but in the end they allowed it because there were more and more illegal dwarfs. Tax had to be paid for the dwarfs placed on the ground so people found a loophole in the law and placed them on window sills and on blocks to evade payment.

    Learnt from the guide that Polish schools have Green school in the last 3 weeks of term before summer where the kids are taken on excursions to other Polish cities and then staying in the forest or near mountains.    Läs mer

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    Milk Bar1Milk bar menu boardCathedral of the Holy Cross on Cathedral Island

    Day 78 POLAND Wroclaw

    2 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We had a meal at a Polish Milk Bar. It is a Milk Bar because no alcohol was sold there. It was fortunate that we had instructions from the guide the day before on the process of ordering.
    The menu is in Polish and only Polish speakers in the bar. The menu board has prices next to items that are still available and not sold out. You line up to order your food, pay for it and with the receipt walk over to the bain marie to collect your food after presenting the receipt. Strictly, no receipt, no food. We asked the patrons what dishes they had that looked interesting and asked where on the board it was. Google translate was not helpful. After Ruby had chosen the table, a lady of maturity sat herself in front of Ruby. Never smiled or engaged in conversation and when she had finished uttered several sentences sternly and left.
    I guess it could be worse.....

    Another first for us was watching a lamp lighter on Cathedral Island. He had 102 lamps to light and he started half an hour before sunset and lamps off at half an hour before sunrise.

    We also ate dinner at the oldest city inn, in all Europe, established in 1273 as a brewery and still operating today. Piwnica Świdnicka had survived wars, floods and had served iconic guest like Chopin, Picasso, Goethe and now Ruby and Grace. The dark ale was delicious and on the menu were dishes that were served back in 1273. We had pickled herring and roasted pork knuckle. Delicious!    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    Train station in Wroclaw Glowny
    Town squareMarino Bistrot Italian RestaurantTruffles and artichokesBeef Tatare with deep fried egg and a soft middle. Amazing how this is achieved.Spaghetti Carbonara with trufflesChef Marino came out to speak to the patrons. Lovely man.Best tiramisu, Mascarpone was creamy and velvety.1Complimentary limoncello at the end of the meal.

    Day 79 POLAND Poznan

    3 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We have returned our rental car and travelled on the train from Wroclaw to Poznan. It was chaotic boarding the train as the carriage numbers were not clearly marked and when we got to our seat number after walking through a wall of people and luggages, we found that we were in the wrong carriage with the same numbers. This meant that we had to walk through another wall of people and luggages to find the right carriage with our numbered seat. We had expected to see the carriage numbers in the sectors ( that's what the Poles call it) on the station or at the side of the train at least. But there was none. After we disembarked the train at Poznan was when we found where the carriage numbers were. People were helpful on the train though, offering to help put our luggage up and take it down from the shelf and interpreting and relaying to us what was said by the conductor.

    We have an apartment on the 3rd floor without a lift. This is the second consecutive apartment without a lift, the last one was on the 5th floor. We miss not having the car because the bigger bags could be left in the car and just a small bag for the few days would be all we had to carry up steps.

    We did finish our day with yet another splendid dinner. A Michelin bib Italian restaurant called Marino Bistrot. We had a little chat with with the chef when he came to shave some truffle in our shared spaghetti carbonara. He was from a town near Alba in Italy, and he proudly told us that the finest truffles come from the Piedmont region due to its climate and soil. Poland has quite a number of such fine restaurants at affordable prices, about $80 -$100 in total for the meal. We have decided to take further indulgences in such fine meals as even if Perth offered such quality, we'd not be able to afford. We walked the 1.9km back to our Airbnb in the rain.    Läs mer

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    Painted domePainted columns to look like marbleDressed for Corpus Christi procession.1MuralFromazeriaVictorian Australian gin

    Day 80 POLAND Poznan

    4 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We joined a walking tour of Old Town that took us from Freedom Square to the Old Town Square and finished at the Jesuit Church Basilica Minor and college.

    As the Jesuits wanted to make the church opulent and magnificent on a budget, they painted columns and walls to look like marble and the dome was also painted and not a structural one.
    The highlight of the tour was at 12pm, a lone trumperter plays the anthem of Poland and 2 billy goats emerge from the Old Town Hall clock and head butts 12 times. It happened again at 3pm but the goats are only programmed to head butt 12 times.
    There were baskers, Winnie the Pooh, and even ballerina basking in the Old Town Square.

    We then walked to Cathedral Island and at a village over the bridge from Cathedral Island, we saw a mural that had such a 3 dimensional effect that it looked like the building though it was painted on a flat wall.

    We finished with another Michelin bib restaurant Fromazeria. Delicious flavours.    Läs mer

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    Egg drop sandwich with white sausages
    Pistachio eclairA football pitch by an old defensive wall.Restaurant PernicovaChef in the kitchenGingerbread spiced breadTuna tatakiHerringBeetroot Cold SoupChocolate Cherry fondantChef WitkowskiWalking on cobblestone reminds us of hiking on the rocky path.

    Day 81 POLAND Torun

    5 juni, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We had an interesting breakfast called egg drop sandwich, which is fried bread with scrambled eggs, onion chutney and chimichurri sauce.

    We were going to catch an uber to the train station but got the tram instead.
    Our hayfever has been so bad despite dosing up on antihistamines that we welcomed the rain today. It might have been inconvenient as we were catching trams and train Poznan to Torun but we managed.

    Ruby realised that with our car, we needed a carpark so we stayed just outside the Old Town which meant that they were more modern fitted with lifts. Now we are without a car we tend to choose accommodations closer to the Old Town which means that it's much older hence the absence of lifts. In Torun, we are staying in an old 13 th century tower with stairs up 3 floors. Just arrived in Torun. Had to lug luggage up 3 floors of a narrow spiral stairs. Then went to buy water and it was upstairs of the tiny supermarket. At dinner, our table was booked..... upstairs.
    Whatever doesn't kill us will make us stronger.

    We were sat upstairs of the Restaurant Pernicova because we requested to be sat where we could watch the chef as he had an open kitchen. The restaurant building was a mill and mortuary once upon a time. The restaurant is a Michelin bib Polish restaurant. Outstanding taste and use of traditional Polish recipe with his slight creative variation. The chef was very friendly and came out of the kitchen several times to speak with us. We couldn't decide what to have and wanted everything on the menu. So we booked to return tomorrow to try the things we missed today.
    We had bread which had gingerbread spices, tuna tataki, herring with apple and potatoes, prawns in a seafood reduction and lastly cold beetroot soup with mash potato, cucumber sorbet and egg. We finished the meal with a chocolate cherry fondant.
    We were working out at dinner the total number of accommodations for our whole trip. This is what we had came up with.
    Accommodation
    8 in Bulgaria
    1 Serbia
    18 Romania
    1 Hungary
    1 Slovakia
    8 Poland
    1 Singapore
    A grand total of 37 in Europe and 1 in Singapore.    Läs mer

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    Statue of Copernicus
    Mediaeval homeBlack displayed the wealth of the merchant because he could afford the colour pigmentsInstead of the pied piper, they have a violinist who removed frogs into the river using his violinMedieval defensive walls made with different stones for added strength.Windows depicts sacks, as this was a flour storage building.Leaning tower of TorunChurch of St JohnPrisonChurch of St JamesOur tower accommodation. We were on the 3rd floor.Amuse buseGoose gizzardsVenison loinLemon meringue

    Day 82 POLAND Torun

    6 juni, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We joined a walking tour of Old Town today that also took us to the start of New Town. Torun was once guarded by the Teutonic Knights who still exist today. They were the guards of Jerusalem Hospital but when it fell to Muslims, they were invited to settle in Torun doing the same. The city of Torun was never bombed or razed to the ground. They only suffered some destruction from the Swedes who broke defensive walls and looted the town. It is such an intact mediaeval town that it was declared UNESCO World Heritage town. Torun is also sister state to Philadelphia.

    We returned to the Restaurant Pernicova and the chef prepared a special amuse buse for us he called surf and turf. We did have different dishes to the ones last night but had a repeat of the prawns because it was so delicious. We even tried goose gizzards for the first time and needless to say it was delicious.

    Torun is also famed for gingerbread man. It is apparently better than Nuremberg. The recipe had been the same for over 700 years. Ruby had a gingerbread coffee which was like a chai latte but with gingerbread spices.    Läs mer

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    Sorrow of sorrowsRenoirRodinBotticelliChateaubriandCreme caramel

    Day 83 POLAND Warsaw

    7 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We tried to book the second class train tickets from Torun to Warsaw but it was sold out so for an extra AUD $16, we booked first class seats. It was spacious with luggage space that was easily accessible. We didn't have to lift our big suitcase onto the shelf above our heads. It was a quiet carriage and had large windows to look out of.

    I made a big error last night when I used our Qantas frequent flyer points to book our Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel in Warsaw. When I confirmed the booking, realised I had booked Radisson Blu Lisbon instead with a non refundable option. Ruby immediately wrote to Lisbon, Qantas and Warsaw to try and sort it but only Warsaw replied to say they couldn't help and Lisbon had to refund the points. We found Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel in Warsaw to be very helpful. When we arrived at the hotel, Joanne called Lisbon Radisson and found out that the booking had been cancelled and no fees or points were charged. However, they said that a third party, Expedia had done the booking. I was shocked because I had booked through my Qantas frequent flyer login.
    We still stayed at the Radisson Warsaw but I paid for the room as the points have not yet been reimbursed. We'll wait and see. (Update: We wrote to Qantas again, and I have received a full credit.)

    We had a quick lunch at a milk bar where we had duck pierogi (dumplings) and cold beetroot soup. We are really liking the cold beetroot soup. The duck pierogi filling was a little sweet. Reminded us of a Asian sticky rice dumpling called bak chang.

    We went to the National Museum in Warsaw and spent close to 6 hours there. They had a temporary exhibition from a collector Count Ignancy Korvin-Milewski of art, ceramics, tapestries and furniture.
    The permanent exhibition spanned art from 14th century to 20th century and a collection from the 19 th century Masters. Very expansive collection and lots to see.

    We finished with dinner at another Michelin Bib restaurant, Butchery and Wine Bar. We shared a chateaubriand, salad and a creme caramel. My travel credit card I've been using for our entire trip didn't work after the meal. Thankfully I had a backup card that did work. It was our most expensive dinner by a mile, so I didn't know how many dishes I had to wash or for how many days if my cards did not work.

    Update: My credit card is working. Maybe it was just the restaurant terminal.    Läs mer

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    The museumThe destruction of Warsaw Old TownYoung children helping with the digging. Crude barricades.Stork nestA russian looking churchSpa at Zubrowka Hotel

    Day 84 POLAND War Uprising Museum and Bi

    8 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We went to the War Uprising Museum in Warsaw before we picked up our car rental for the 3½hr drive Bialowieza National Park.

    War Uprising Museum was very heavy, emotionally draining and sad. It was when the people of Warsaw had an uprising against Hitler and were promised help by Stalin and Chamberlain, neither came to their aid. The poor Poles, young children and old, Jews and the educated suffered atrocities beyond comprehension and imagination. We avoided the visit to Auschwitz for this reason, and weren't prepared for this museum to be so very confronting. They had a replica of a bunker and sewer where the untrained and ill equipped, brave young women and men fought the Nazis and lost. Even little kids at 9-15 year old helped in the uprising. It was a very interactive museum with lots to read. We were pleased to see a lot of school groups being exposed to the horror but more surprising for us, was that we saw a few lots of small independent groups of youth patrons.

    It is most disturbing that we have an individual in Australia who is heading in this exact direction. She is using the prejudices and fears of the people to incite more vilification and hatred.  The more such hate speech is heard, radical extreme ideas will be normalised. Individual and collective human conscience will be diluted, silenced, justified. Eventually all good sense and conscience disappear. I cannot believe that we have learnt nothing from history, that such atrocities are still perpetuated in the world.  I do not believe that Australia will be immune from the consequences if we continue in this trajectory. Enough of my opinions and rant.

    After the museum we picked up the car and drove to Bialowieza without lunch because not even we could eat after that experience. Half an hour before arriving at Bialowieza we were stopped by 2 border police. I must add here that Bielowieza is at the border with Belarus. We came here as it has one of the last stands of primeval forest in Europe. The patrol guards took our passports and checked the rental papers of the car. They returned the rental papers but kept our passports and did a thorough check of it. We saw the lady officer thumbing through the passports whilst on  the phone. The large male soldier wielding large rifle came to our car to say something in Polish but Google Translate could not do a proper translation. We managed to find out that it's just a routine check but would take 10 to 15 minutes. We were not too worried as the large soldier clutching the large firearm developed a very amused smile on his face. We took this opportunity to stretch our legs and walked a bit while we waited. We think that they were checking that we were not over staying our schengen visa as they asked for our departure date. They apologised for taking a while as they waved us off with big smiles.

    After the day we had, we finished our day at the relaxing spa of our hotel to wind down.    Läs mer

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    Zebra Zubry Bialowieza Hiking trail
    Mega floraChicken mushroomOyster mushroomsMonumental tree that fell 7 years ago.Chicken mushroom because it taste like chicken.

    Day 85 POLAND Bialowieza

    9 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had a very energetic day. We woke at 430am and couldn't get back to sleep so we got up to do a hike in the Bialowieza forest on the Zebra Zubry trail.

    After breakfast we went to the spa to use the steam room to aid the hayfever. Then got bicycles from the hotel and cycled into town. Most of the places were closed except for St Teresa's Church.

    We found a cafe that was open for a light lunch of soup. Despite the hayfever, we sat outside because there were about 20 little kids in the cafe and the noise was like a cacophony of galahs after red cordial.

    The primeval pocket of Bialowieza forest is declared Strict Reserve and entry is restricted in numbers and only with a guide. We met our guide Joao from Totem Tours to enter the restricted part of Bialowieza forest. It's one of the few primeval forest left in the world. Even more rare that it is on flat lowlands with excellent water source. Such land would historically be used for farming. A primeval forest is undisturbed naturally regenerated eco system untouched by human activity.
    Joao was an excellent guide. He is from Portugal and his childhood dream was to visit this forest since he first read about it in a magazine when he was 9 years old. He is now living his dream. He explained about how to spot water areas by looking at where the alder trees grow at they need part of their root system in water. The forest creates it's own microclimate to keep itself in balance. Interestingly enough he said the the fauna was in balance too. The bison tended to eat bushes and leaves off trees while wild horses grazed and ate grass. With the eradication of wild horses, the only human interference was having to cut the grass in the meadows leading to the forest.
    The fallen leaves and trees, fungi, mycilliums, moss and licen all work to provide organic matter for the forest. There is an equal loss and accumulation of organic matter each year. I expected many more large trees, but Joaoo explained that the trees here have short lifespans. He showed us how a fallen log creates an exposed area where the animals do not feel safe to stop and graze. As a result, small trees can grow and develop to replace the fallen tree. Quite astounding how Mother Nature keeps everything in harmony.

    Managing the numbers who can enter this Strict Reserve meant that we had the forest to ourselves most of the time. We passed 2 other small groups heading in different directions. We spent 4 hours walking through the forest and did not want to leave. I could imagine fairies and elves living there. Ruby said she could walk another 4 hours through the forest again. It was simply magical.

    We went to Carska restaurant housed inside the historic Białowieża Towarowa railway station, which was originally built in 1903 for Tsar Nicholas II. The station was constructed as a private terminal for Russian Tsars visiting their vast hunting estates in the Białowieża Primeval Forest. It allowed royalty and their guests to arrive in maximum comfort from St. Petersburg. We had sturgeon and Polish lobster which was a tiny marron and delicious Pavlova/ Meringue dessert.    Läs mer

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    Polish lobster entree.
    Sturgeon fish mainPavalova dessert

    Day 86 POLAND Warsaw

    10 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We hadn't booked our accommodation as we weren't sure if we'd extend our stay in Bialowieza, but due to bad hayfever we decided to drive back to Warsaw.

    We looked for accommodations and most of the ones we wanted were booked out. I never realised the importance of pre-booking accommodations with free cancellations until today. Besides the stress of finding the accommodation, it was very time consuming as well.
    We finally found an Airbnb in Warsaw only 150m from the last accommodation for this trip. So trundling our luggage won't be an issue.

    We went to the spa one last time and headed for Warsaw.

    No photos for today. We will put the photos from our dinner at Carska last night.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    Palace of Culture
    St Teresa's ChurchSome special mass and procession on the way to dinnerLe Braci RestaurantAsparagus and artichokes salad with truffleCacio e pepe spaghetti with white trufflesLamb polpetteTiramisu with coffee granitaLimoncello with green tea

    Day 87 POLAND Warsaw

    11 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We had another sort of rest day. We had to move accommodation in Warsaw. Fortunately it was only 150m away. The 2 accommodation hosts were most unhelpful. One of them said in a message that she didn't like our assertiveness when we told her that our bags are on wheels and will be easy for the cleaner to move around. In order to have a late check-out, we had to pay AUD $20 more for the accommodation whilst the check-in accommodation wouldn't let us checkin any earlier than 3pm. This host said that we were not to flush toilet paper and had to be thrown in the bin. I wrote a message to say it was unhygienic and she finally relented to say that we could flush normal amounts of toilet paper but not a lot that would clog the toilet. I don't know how much she expected us to flush down the bowl.

    It was also cold and rainy so we stayed in both accommodations until our Michelin bib restaurant dinner time. We went to Le Braci, an Italian restaurant. It was delicious and had my fill of truffles, white truffles. Food was outstanding but the tiramisu was so exceptional. It had a coffee sorbet and amaretto biscuits at the base instead of sponge fingers. We finished off dinner with complimentary limoncello. We even got a topup when we finished our first glass. I don't know what it is about Ruby regularly getting offered alcohol. Unusual limoncello too because it had green tea in the limoncello. Very tasty.    Läs mer

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    Bristol Hotel where we had breakfast, an original buildingPresidential PalaceChurch of St Joseph's and the guide.Old Town Square completely rebuilt.Shows the various add on over the centuriesNew SquareFish soup at N31 restaurantSea buckthorn sorbertTiramisuLittle kids choirTeenagers joined in.Ladies choirAlla Polloca and Joshua Haberman

    Day 88 POLAND Warsaw

    12 juni, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We must be travel weary coming to the end of our trip. Ruby has come down with a cold. She volunteered to come back to the apartment for a rest before our concert tonight instead of exploring further. That is when I know Ruby is actually unwell. I am very pleased with the less doing and walking, and catching more buses and trams instead of walking everywhere. I am writing this whilst Ruby is taking a nap, something she does only when she's really unwell.

    We caught a bus to breakfast at Cafe Bristol, one of the few original buildings left standing after the annihlation of Warsaw by the Nazis. Very posh cafe with premium breakfast and coffee at a price to match.

    After breakfast we joined the Old Town walking tour. The guide on the walking tour had very dry sense of humour but he was very informative. He gave a good outline of Polish, especially Warsaw history from 1200s through the partitions, the Nazi occupation, communist times to present day. He highlighted all the 4 buildings still left standing after the war and we learnt the enormous human cost in all the various uprisings and wars.

    Lunch was at N31 restaurant. This restaurant is a Michelin bib restaurant that had a lunch special, 3 course meal with water, bread and coffee for AUD $34 each. Made up for my expensive coffee.

    We are going for a chorale recital at Teatr Wielki this evening. So will write about it when I get back.

    The chorale performance started with little kids choir, then the teenagers joined and lastly the ladies choir sang the second half of the concert. The ladies choir had a guest conductor Joshua Haberman from the US. They sung in Polish, Latin and English in great harmony. The acoustics in the hall we were in was simply amazing.    Läs mer

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    Amuse Bouche at WYRAJ of goose liver pate with wild berriesFrom left to right, mushrooms, trout on prawn crackers and venison tongue with horse radish & gravyCod fish with parsnip mash and pickled cabbageCake with parsnip crisp with horse radish sauce.A complimentary herbal digestive at the end.

    Day 89 POLAND Warsaw

    13 juni, Polen ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Today was to explore Praga, a suburb of Warsaw that was not bombed much and retained much if it's pre war architecture. It's was described as a hip bohemian area with an arsty culture. On the way to the tram stop, we saw marquees being set up with a strong police presence, and trucks that were decorated parked up the street. Ruby found on Google that it was for a parade at 2pm for Equality. (We call it Pride in Australia). Not totally trusting google, we confirmed with a bored looking police officer that the parade was indeed at 2pm. We decided that we would be back for that as it was passing right infront of our apartment window.

    We took a tram to Praga for breakfast.
    A lovely waiter from TOAST called Patrick offered free coffee or dessert when he found out that it was my birthday. Unfortunately we had already had dessert and coffee, and could not eat anymore. It started to rain intermittently during breakfast and continued so till early afternoon.

    In between rainfalls, we visited 2 churches and on the way to the market square, we found a graduation tower. That is the tower stuffed with twigs that drips salty brine which we sit beside, inhale the salt vapours and is magic for clearing our allergies. It was so good to sit there for about 15 mins to clear the hayfever and Ruby's cold. I think the markets were scaled down because of the rain, only a few craft stands for kids to make crafts were there. This was our only day for shopping for souvenirs and we found none. The shops we wanted to visit were all rather far apart, and we decided to not risk getting too wet especially as Ruby was still getting over her cold. The only thing we bought was an asparagus pastry and a strawberry croissant for lunch back at the apartment whilst we watched the parade.

    We had somehow always missed the Pride Parade back home in Perth, so it was a treat to watch the one in Warsaw from the box seat at the window of our apartment. The participants here did not seem as lavishly costumed and floats were not as decorated as those in Australia. However, there was still quite a large crowd and was it was great to see so much support for the Equality Parade in what we thought was a conservative Catholic country.

    My birthday dinner was at WYRAJ, another Michelin Bib restaurant with traditional Slavic cuisine. When we walked in, there was a goth looking DJ playing what sounded to us like acoustic goth music. It was all very atmospheric and rather delightful. Everytime a new customer came in, our DJ would don his mask and perform a Slavic cleansing ritual with a sage smudge stick, waving the bowl around the restaurant, table to table. He cleansed the guest but the staff were super stressed out. Take away containers from an open shelf fell on the chef in the half open kitchen. Coffee that was made and sat at the bar for 7 minutes not served. Wait staff were being told off for something. Then an order that was plated then put into takeaway boxes after a lot of blah blah and gesticulation amongst the boss lady and her staff, and these boxes taken to the back of the restaurant. It was all very entertaining, and we had premium seats for this show. Food was wonderful too.    Läs mer

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  • AwesomesEastern EuropeResenär
    Warsaw obliteratedConstitution SquareCommunist mosaicMeeting place for members of the resistanceAgricultural management building.Map of Poland before World War IIMonument to remember Free speechMenu at OMADumpling soupMinced meat ballGinger and sea buckthorn teaStrawberry filled Dumpling with a runny custard and crumblePIEROGANIAFried assorted pierogi. Duck, meat and cabbage and lentil

    Day 90 POLAND Warsaw

    14 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was forecasted to rain all day and we had a walking tour booked at 10am. After our dinner last night, we decided to skip breakfast and just have a quick coffee before the tour. The tour was of The Cold War and Spy Secrets. The guide was a young man who had no real interest in the subject but needed a job, so learnt all the information recently, and delivered it very well.

    The Polish secret police was the puppet of communist Russia. They cleverly infiltrated the resistance group by very quietly killing some leading participants of the resistance group, and continuing the communications as the said participants, feeding misinformation whilst gaining intelligence from the resistance like planned strategies. The secret police got away with this because meetings were not done in person, but through the radio or written communications.
    The secret police targeted even the clergy who gave sermons that were deemed anti communist. They bugged churches, the homes of the priest, and even the confessional. They used intimidation to make the priest comply, like getting into the homes of the priests and just moving furniture around. Pictures of how martyrs died were also left for the priests to find.

    Lots more spy stories were told and the guide took us to the buildings where secret meetings were held and pointed out the headquarters of the secret police. We really enjoyed the tour also because it was a small group of 5.

    We then went to Oma for lunch. It's a quaint little restaurant that served Polish comfort food. The tiny restaurant had a correspondingly sized small menu but the food was very fine. We had the lunch special of soup and mains for AUD$20. For once in this entire trip, we ordered the same dishes of dumpling soup and a minced meat giant meatball with roasted beetroot and mash potatoes. We usually order different items and share, so we can sample a wider variety. We were very full after the 2 courses but we had to try the traditional dumpling dessert. We have been wanting to try a sweet pierogi dish and as this was our last day, we could not pass up the opportunity especially in a restaurant that promises to do it well. They delivered and we polished off a shared large serve which could have been a meal in itself. Fortunately the rain subsided and we could walk back to the accommodation for a restful afternoon, to cut hair and pack.

    We found another pierogi restaurant about 700m from our accommodation that served fried pierogi. Not having been able to sample that dish yet, we walked for a shared plate of fried pierogi. Much as it was very delicious, we prefer the boiled version.

    It's the last day of this epic 91 day trip and we are quite ready to leave as we are missing our daughter. We are not homesick but daughter sick.    Läs mer

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    Day 91 Exit POLAND TO SINGAPORE

    15 juni, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We got a taxi from booking.com to the airport as we had to get to the airport by 445am. It was very good, the taxi was waiting by 420am. Glad we got to the airport early as it was chaotic. We found the counter to check-in but there was a long queue and the counters were closed. Ruby queued while I tried to find a Polish air official. He told me the counters would open in 10mins and when I asked if we join the long queue, her shrugged and said queue if you like. Couldn't get clarification from him due to language I think. Then some people broke away from them line and queued at a different counter. We followed but it was the bag drop counter when you self check-in. Luckily our counter opened next to the bag drop counter. We checked-in then joined a line with about 100 people queuing for security check. When we got to the end of that queue we were told that the machines were temporary out of order and to walk to another security check point.

    We are finally settled in the gate awaiting boarding. We fly to Munich then Singapore. Good bye Poland.    Läs mer

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