Machu Picchu

MP is arguably the biggest tourist attraction in Latin America and notoriously difficult and expensive to visit. Not liking over-hyped, crowded places, I wasn't sure if it'd be worth it - I'm glad to say it was!

Everywhere advises that you should book train and entrance fees way in advance as there is limited capacity and it's high season. Trouble is the official website is impossible to get onto and all the American ones charge a huge fee (you can't buy on the door). We didn't as we were lazy and didn't know exact dates. We had hoped to be able to sort it in Ollantaytambo but couldn't see anywhere obvious so we spent a fretful night - do we risk the train fare if we're not guaranteed entry?? We decided to pack a toothbrush in case we needed to wait a day and wing it. Luckily it all went well.

Anna was up at 5:30am pacing / faffing! We got up and walked down to the train station just before 7am - no queue, phew, and got our tickets for 7:20am train (Inca Rail, 60 US each way!!! and that was cheapest option!). The hour and a half train ride was beautiful, travelling along a river through a valley - my tip to anyone wanting to avoid the exorbitant train fare is to get a canoe, and watch out for the rocks!. For my complimentary drink I had a lovely ginger ale, lemon juice and star anise drink. We chatted to the family next to us and helped the girl prep for her English exam.

Arriving in Aguas Calientes (now officially called MP pueblo / town) we legged it to the ticket office but again no queue, no worries. Entry was 126S which is less than half of what US websites charge. After waiting ages for the ATM to be loaded we got our bus tickets (24 US, really?! To be fair the bus service was extremely good and there are tons so you never wait long but someone is making a very big profit!!)

The bus ride took 25 mins up a zigzag path - pretty hairy at times, especially when passing another bus on the very narrow roads with no / little barriers at the sides!

On arrival, we went in and got the special MP stamp in our passports, and then started climbing the steps - there is a rough route to walk round.

Early on we came to a fork and chose to go to the Sun Gate, thinking it was close by...it wasn't! In melting heat, and still puffing from the altitude (2,600m; nope, still not adjusted) we walked uphill on the uneven stone path, with frequent breaks in the shade. After half an hour we reached some stone structures but no that wasn't it according to a couple of kids with far too much energy. Having come this far we had to keep going so we plodded on upwards for another 25 mins and finally arrived - the view of MP from afar was well worth it but they could have done with an ice cream stand up there!!

Walking back down was much quicker but we had drunk all our water so went out the park and shared a huge brownie and fanta at ridiculously inflated prices (28S) and picked up some more water.

Revived, we wandered around the main site for a few hours. It is an amazing place - the stonework is fascinating but mainly it's the location as you do feel on top of the world. There is a slight sense of vertigo as the sides are so steep. It didn't feel too busy either as I'd feared - there was the odd big tour group but a lot of the time it was just us wandering around the old Incan headquarters.

With aching legs (there are a lot of steps!) we headed back down in the bus and had a late lunch / dinner at Fortaleza, overlooking the train tracks, which run through the town, and the river. I had veg burritos and Anna had pieces of very yummy steak and huge chips - pricey, but very good (90S). We played a few games of pool on the worn out table with half the balls missing and metal sticks - Anna thrashed me.

After, we headed to the thermal springs the town was originally named after (10S). There are about 7 small, tiled pools, which are tepid at best. However, we found out if you stand by the pipe inlet it's actually quite toasty so we shoved some young, local lads out the way who were hogging it and enjoyed the warmth for a bit before giving it back. The location up the river, in the forest makes it a lovely setting to unwind.

Then it was time for the 7pm train - we seemed to have a free upgrade to a posher train with plusher seats and windows in the ceiling (no idea why, you couldn't see any stars). I had a lovely hot caramelised almond drink and dozed most of the way. We went to bed exhausted!Okumaya devam et