• Benni Kircher

A Curiosity Ride

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  • What‘s next after Japan?

    October 25, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    In the last few weeks, I have dealt with the question of what comes next. Should I go back to China and cycle from there to Vietnam? Should I go to South America? Should I go to Europe and spend winter in warm countries? Not sure…
    This cycling trip has been an incredible chapter in my life. I’ve made countless life experiences that nobody ever can take away from me. I am aware that I could experience so much more if I continue. And yet, I think that I have slowly reached the point where I can proudly say: I have enough for now. Certainly, I do not want this journey to become a mindless consumption of visiting countries, like a checklist. It’s time to end this trip here in Japan while I still tour with great relish. For the remaining weeks, I’ll do my best to share further updates with you.
    The timing could then also be not much better. Christmas is slowly coming closer. The thought of being together with my family and friends at the festivities feels so indescribable good. It reminds me of one of those classic Christmas songs “I’m driving home for Christmas, yeah…“. Horrible and cheesy as sh**, I know.
    So, the flight to Frankfurt is booked. From there, my route will lead me to the final destination. The place I look forward to the most. My home, Steißlingen.
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  • Kyushu - Japan‘s 3rd island on my list

    November 3, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I have reached Kyushu, another main island of Japan. To get there, I had to push my bike through a long tunnel below the water. The route through the suburbs afterwards was a bit tiring because of countless traffic lights. On top of that, I had to take a longer break because of an ongoing marathon. It was not too bad, I enjoyed some good views and cheered the runners.
    My first stop was then Fukuoka where I visited a few sights. By coincidence, I ended up at a food festival and Japanese Jazz concert where I treated myself to burger and dumplings.
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  • Aso-Kuju National Park

    November 4, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    My next stop in Kyushu was the Aso-Kuju National Park. Once more, I was surprised by the natural diversity of Japan. After cycling up through dark forests, I had reached a high plateau and was rewarded with stunning views over endless meadows with some higher mountains and volcanos in the background.Read more

  • Hiroshima - A day with an unexpected end

    November 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The historical center of Hiroshima is undoubtedly The Peace Memorial. Large crowds of people flock to the memorial site daily to mourn and learn more about the first atomic bomb on 6th August 1945. Visiting the related Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is a must. Despite a long queue, I did not want to miss out this opportunity. And it was worth waiting for. One could spend hours in there - there are dozens of photographs, animations, artifacts, narratives and drawings by survivors and much more. Particularly the permanent exhibition “Reality of the Atomic Bomb“ was very disturbing. The hallway is dimmed, you see horrible photographs of burned torsos and read through all those stories of victims and survivors (taking photos was allowed). There’s absolute silence except for the few people crying. It is absolutely dreadful to see what mankind is capable of. I think there is not a single soul leaving this museum whose heart is not touched. All in all, the whole experience was very powerful.

    Having digested the museum visit, my stomach was ready to try the local dish Okonomiyaki which Hiroshima is known for. It is basically a Japanese pancake with noodles, cabbage, eggs, onions, cheese and whatever toppings one fancies. Exactly what a hungry cyclist needs. Luckily, I was seated right in front of the chef where I could watch him preparing the food. Behind me, I had dozens of Junior High School students. As so often, I was the only Gaijin - the only non-Japanese - and was thus more or less the center of attention. So, I started a conversation with a few students which was quite amusing.

    It was already dark when I left the restaurant and high time to find a safe place for the night. Google Maps is very convenient in that matter. I found a good spot on the outskirts of Hiroshima. So, I cycled there my last kilometres of the day. I had just passed by the last house and was maybe 50 meters in the woods when I heard loud noises from the side of the road a few meters ahead. Out of the blue, a bear appeared on the road 10-15 meters away from me. The bear was so terrified that he ran off right away back into the woods. I just saw his big butt vanishing between the bushes. I stood there frozen for a moment. When I realized what happened, I instantly turned around my bike and cycled back to the city. Okay, safe heaven. WOW! Now, that was an adrenaline rush. That came so unexpected and certainly I was as terrified as the bear himself. I couldn’t stop laughing for many minutes. Not the kind of bear encounter I was hoping for.
    I calmed down and cycled a few kilometres further to another park. I pitched my tent, read my book and fell asleep. Surprisingly, I slept very well.
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  • Shikoku - Japan‘s last main island on my

    November 9, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    To get to Shikoku, I took the Shimanami Kaido, Japan’s number one cycle route. It is basically a route on several islands which are connected through bridges, like island hopping. It was a welcome change because usually these kind of bridges are closed for cyclists and you have to take a ferry or cycle through a tunnel instead. What’s more, it was the first time that I met quite a few other cyclists in Japan.Read more

  • Two days in Osaka

    Nov 12–14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Cycling in a city like Osaka with dozens of suburbs is a hassle. Especially when your bike makes problems 20 kilometres before the city centre. It was early morning when suddenly my freewheel stopped working. I couldn’t pedal anymore. The first few bike shops were unable to fix it. One bike shop tried to clean it. With that I could at least cycle to Osaka and find a decent bike shop where it can be replaced. But all the bike shops I visited in Osaka was without success. It would take 1-2 weeks to get the replacement part. I don’t have that much time. It’s frustrating when you’re at the birthplace of Shimano, where the headquarters is located, and there is not a single bike shop that can fix it within a few days. I refuse to give up. My other plan was to get a new rear wheel. Even that would take roughly five days. Finally, ten exhausting hours later, I found a bike shop that had a suitable rear wheel at stock. I was too tired to change the wheel myself. And I do not even have the tools required with me. I came back one hour later and found my repaired bike.
    Not the easiest day but I’m glad that everything worked out at the end. And I must say that it was the first serious mechanical defect after so many thousands of kilometres. It was also a great experience because the staff at the bike shops were eager to find a solution for me and even suggested me other bike shops to go.

    My plan was to sleep late the next morning. It did not work. My inner clock has its rhythm and so I woke up at 4:30am. The good thing is that I could enjoy the early morning hours with beautiful light. Having arrived downtown, it seemed like bars and clubs had just closed their gates. The streets were mostly empty except for the party animals whose nightlife had come to an end and were now straying around. For the rest of the day, I just explored various corners the city.
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  • A day (in) around Kyoto

    November 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Kyoto is only a stone‘s throw from Osaka. However, I was not in the mood to cycle again through the centre of a major city. Also, because you cannot simply lock your bike wherever you want in a big Japanese city. You have to park your bike at a designated area and pay for it. The problem is that my bike with its panniers is too big for the bicycle stands (While I was writing this update at the river of Kyoto, a kind security guard asked me to park my bike somewhere else. Right at that moment, there appeared a small truck. Two guys threw all bikes into the truck that were not parked at designated bicycle stands. Fun fact, there were no bicycle stands nearby and there was not even a sign that bicycle parking is prohibited). Things like that are tiring.
    So, I spent my time mostly outside of the city. I hiked up to Mount Inari where dozens of shrines and temples are located. I was a bit late in the morning and the crowds had already made their way there.
    What’s more, leaving Japan without visiting a real bamboo forest is a no-go. Japan‘s most popular one Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is right next to Kyoto. A real experience!
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  • Cycling around Lake Biwa

    November 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    With 670 square kilometres, Lake Biwa is Japan‘s largest lake. Compared to Lake of Constance covering 539 square kilometres, Lake Biwa is slightly larger (Wikipedia). The region around Lake Biwa is densely populated with heavy traffic. However, the hilly northern part is fairly quiet and has almost no traffic. It’s been a while since I could enjoy such a smooth ride with some gentle climbs in quiet atmosphere.
    The weather conditions on the first day reminded me a little of those at the Lake of Constance - fog and moisture. The temperatures were still very enjoyable but it will change soon. Higher altitudes like the mountains in Hokkaido have their first snow. It is only a matter of time until the temperatures will drop here too. I think my timing is good to end the cycling season soon.

    That’s not all, I had the pleasure to stay with my Warmshowers Hosts Jacquelyn and Robert for one night. The two are originally from the US but moved to Japan long ago. They live in a Japanese-style house surrounded by rice fields.
    Together, we shared stories on our cycling trips and whatever there is to tell about life. Jacquelyn is still very active, a passionate cyclist and yoga teacher. Robert has quit his cycling career and is now responsible for the garden. He is also an excellent chef, you must know that his chicken is exquisite. What a lovely and inspiring couple the two are.
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  • This and that

    November 20, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I cannot emphasize enough how much I enjoy the last few days on my bike. Cycling through Iga, the Ninja City (there is ninja stuff all around the city and most likely a history behind that) and a few Japanese old towns was a great experience. Surprisingly, there was a cloudburst after three weeks without rain. The first few minutes cycling in rain are always a bit unpleasant. It‘s just a temporary state and not so bad with the right mental attitude. Two hours later, I was sitting in a warm supermarket with a hot ramen. Life is good!Read more

  • Mount Fuji at its finest

    November 22, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ -2 °C

    With an altitude of 3776 metres, Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest mountain and an iconic symbol. The first time I sighted this conically shaped mountain from far away, I had again one of those moments where I just shouted of joy.
    I spent the next two days cycling around Mount Fuji. Once again, the conditions were just magic. Thanks to the recent snowfall in higher altitudes, it’s peak was now covered with snow. Having the opportunity to view this mountain from different angles is just stunning. I mean, it is THE perfectly shaped mountain. So many times did I slow down just to look at it with great amazement.
    I could not resist to visit one of the most popular photo spots for sunset as well as for sunrise. For sunrise, I got up early at 4:30 am. It was one of the coldest nights on my trip and my tent was still frozen.
    And yeah what should I say? I don’t have words for this anymore. It was the last natural beauty on my trip that I wanted to see by all means. My gratitude is endless!
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  • Four days at Megu‘s in Hiratsuka

    Nov 23–27, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    My last Warmshowers stay at Megu’s was truly a fabulous experience. From the moment I arrived, I relished his warm-hearted hospitality. Megu is a bicycle and motor bike mechanic. In his free time, he plays as a guitarist in a band. Together with his friends, we had a fun night with the most delicious home-cooked Japanese food that I have ever had. You must know that one of his friends is a talented sushi chef. We also visited a Japanese restaurant and some bars in the city of Hiratsuka. And I cycled around town, spent some time by the beach, cooked non-Japanese meals for us and just enjoyed doing nothing. It was the perfect preparation for the last two days on my bike to Tokyo.Read more

  • Made it to Tokyo!!!

    Nov 28–Dec 6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    248 days, 20030 kilometres and 176530 metres of total ascent later, I have arrived safe and sound in the heart of Tokyo. I was warmly welcomed by my friend David. The feeling is indescribable at the moment. My sincere gratitude goes out to all the people who supported me along my way.

    With over 37 million inhabitants, Tokyo is the most populous city in the world. I cannot wait to explore different corners of this megacity. But for now, I will just enjoy my arrival with good food and drinks together with David. Let’s see what the nightlife of Tokyo has to offer. More updates to come!

    PS: Here are just a few impressions of my last two days cycling along the coast to Tokyo.
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  • Tokyo: Day 1-4

    Nov 28–Dec 2, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The past weekend together with David was a real stunner. During daytime, we just strolled around and visited a few districts. We treated ourselves to all kinds of delicious food and refreshing drinks. Especially the so-called izakayas (a typical Japanese pub with barbecue and drinks) were our first choice for dinner. The atmosphere was lively and we were mostly surrounded by Japanese. Of course, we could not simply end the evening afterwards. So, we went to a few real authentic Japanese karaoke bars. Oh, it was a hell of fun.Read more

  • Tokyo: Day 5 & 6

    Dec 2–6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It was time to leave David alone as he had to return to work on Monday. Thanks my friend for having me!
    So, I changed the location to a cute little hostel named Little Japan. My first priority there was to pack my bike and luggage as I want to enjoy my remaining days in Tokyo without any duties. I was lucky enough to find a suitable bike box in a nearby bike shop. The packing itself went quite smooth.
    My highlight on these two days was undoubtedly the Tokyo Skytree. With a total height of 634 metres, it is the tallest tower in the world. Two observation decks at a height of 350 metres and 450 metres allow stunning views over the city. I felt incredibly lucky to view Mount Fuji one last time at golden hour. Spending four hours up there was absolutely worth it!
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  • Tokyo: Day 7 & 8

    December 4, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The last two days in Tokyo were fairly quiet compared to the previous ones. I visited sights such as the Tokyo Tower, Tsukiji Outer Market and the Shibuya Crossing. The latter mentioned was of particular interest for me. I wanted to view this spectacle from different angles. The Shibuya Crossing is known to be the busiest crossing in the world with roughly 2.4 million pedestrians crossing every single day. 2.4 million, that’s nuts! During rush hour, up to 3,000 people cross Shibuya at a time. I can guarantee you that there’s much going on around this place. No doubt, advertising comes at a high price.
    Spending more than one week in such a massive city with millions of people is overwhelming after a couple of days. And yet, I must say that the time I spent Tokyo was absolutely fantastic.
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  • Arigatō and sayonara Japan!

    December 6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Who would have thought that I would spend over one-third of my travel time in Japan. I had the privilege of visiting the most wonderful places on all four main islands. Cycling all over Japan was fairly easy compared to some other countries I have been to before. The infrastructure is well-developed, potable water is available pretty much everywhere for free, the cities and roads are clean and the traffic was in most cases considerate. It is certainly a little mecca for all enthusiastic cyclists out there.
    My time here is over and I can only bow to Japan and all the people who showed nothing but kindness and generosity. There are certainly a few exemplary manners that we could learn from the Japanese culture.
    Arigatō Nihon!
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  • Home sweet home

    December 9, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    I made it home. The conditions for cycling from Frankfurt to Steißlingen were everything else but pleasant. Who cares, I was chuffed to see again my friends Roman in Mannheim and Frank & Jenny in Stuttgart. There was so much we had to tell each other. All the fancy food we ate like Döner, Brezeln, Fleischkäse and Glühwein was a great reward for the hard work in the last months. 

The journey is over and my heart is filled with gratefulness. What remains are the memories. Some days were easy, some were not. Nature is unpredictable and beautiful in every sense - wind, rain, cold and heat made it both, demanding and encouraging. Reckless traffic, however, was the toughest challenge of all. With that being said, it made me leave my comfort zone from time to time. And yet, it was the greatest pleasure to test my physical and mental limits.
    Though this ride was not only about me. It was about the people, the lessons learned and our beautiful planet earth. Even in some poor regions, I experienced nothing but generosity, warmth and trustfulness. It will take some time, if ever, before I can grasp all the good things that happened to me. For now, I just hope that I was able to expose how good-natured our world can be.

    Finally, I can only repeat and express my special thanks to all the people out there who helped and encouraged me from the near and far. I appreciate your feedback and messages in the last 259 days very much. If there is still something you would like to share with me, I would be thrilled to hear from you.
    Stay curious and happy cycling!
    Happy to see you soon,
    Benni, Ben, Benji and whatever you called me on the road.
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    Trip end
    December 9, 2024