• Benni Kircher

A Curiosity Ride

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  • Good things prevail

    21 agosto 2024, Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Not every beginning is easy. On the first few days in Kyrgyzstan, I felt not welcome - kids threw rocks at me, insisted on money, shouted bad words and tried to take my stuff. Some of their parents who stood next to them did not care. I was surprised and did not know how to deal with it. But as I start pondering, I notice that the majority of kids is kind and delighted to meet a stranger. What’s more, I had pleasant encounters with locals. There was Tim who invited me to a cold drink in front of a supermarket. Tim is eager to learn more about the software I was working with. We had a lively discussion. Another time, I met Daniel. He told me that the soft drink I was having is not good for me and full of sugar (Yes, thanks, you’re right. I have to change my habit to the better again). He went away to buy me water and raspberries.
    Similar to other countries, people greet me cheerfully, give me water and sometimes fruits. The positive experiences together with the natural beauty of Kyrgyzstan outweigh the tiny negative ones by far. These are the memories that I will reminisce one day about my time in Kyrgyzstan. Like with everything else in life. It is the good things that shall be remembered.
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  • Easy-going days

    28–30 ago 2024, Kazakistan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Not much happening these days. I take it easy, do some cycling and just hang around in hostels for some time. Together with Uli, I cycled from Bishkek to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Some parts of the road were under construction with heavy traffic. So we had to take extra care. Nonetheless, the route offered us some charming views.Leggi altro

  • Pleasant time in Kazakhstan

    31 agosto 2024, Kazakistan ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Kazakhstan is my last visiting country in Central Asia. The roads are endless and offer wide views. Sometimes, my progress feels very slow here. And yet, I head further eastwards little by little.
    I have plenty of time and decide to make a little detour to visit the Charyn Canyon. Since there are no people or park rangers around after dark, I cannot resist pitching my camp there. It was a calm night with a special atmosphere.

    The landscape has changed on the next day. It felt like cycling through a savannah with wild horses, camels and cows grazing next to the road. At the end of the day, I found a quiet place in the middle of the woods. I cannot remember the last time I was in the woods. So, I was really looking forward to stay here for the night. I pitched my tent and finished cooking when out of the blue an elderly man approached me. Oh no, is that the sheriff of the woods, I thought!? “Assalamu Alaikum“ he greeted me that I answered with “Wa Alaikum Salaam“. He introduced himself as Batan and started vigorously talking to me in Kazakh. I had no clue what he was talking about. My translator app did not work for whatever reason. To cut a long story short, he told me that there are
    wolves around (Oh wow, how many times I have heard this now on my trip) and demanded that I would stay in his yurt on his farm. Yeah okay, why not. He went back and I finished my instant noodles, packed all my stuff and pushed my bike to his farm. But his two giant shepherd dogs did not let me come close to the farm (one of them looked more like a little bear, he was huge!!!). Oh man, I would prefer having some wolves around my tent at night than dealing with these two barking fellas that were slowly coming towards my direction. Okay, slowly walking backwards. I yelled hoping for the man to come back and call his dogs. Nothing happened. After some time, two men appeared and called their dogs back. It turned out that these were the two sons of Batan. Together, with the now well-behaved dogs we walked to the farm.
    I joined the dining table, where Batan was sitting together with his wife and daughter. There was a big plate of meat, potatoes and bread (let’s call it Gulasch) already waiting for me. It was a culinary delight after all these instant noodles in recent days. Shortly after we finished dinner, they showed me the yurt where I was supposed to sleep. The yurt was lovingly designed with a mattress just for me. I fell asleep quickly with a full stomach and a content feeling.
    The next morning we had breakfast, cruised around the city of Zharkent with their old BMW and Mercedes and fed the animals on their farm. After an abundant lunch, it was time for me to move on to the border of China.
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  • China - another milestone!

    2 settembre 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Visiting China has never really been my plan on this journey. The 15-day visa-free entry to China has enabled me new opportunities to continue my journey further east though. Crossing the border to the autonomous region Xingjiang, which is home to ethnic minority groups such as the Uyghur, went much smoother than expected. After a quick luggage scan and a few basic questions about my stay, I was in China. Unbelievable, now that feels like a real milestone.

    There was no visible sign on the motorway access that cycling was forbidden. Let’s give it a try! Navigating here is easy and the progress is fast. It took maybe five minutes until the police stopped me. Completely surprised, I played the naive tourist not knowing what I did wrong. The officer took a picture of me and my passport and politely showed me the road I was allowed to take. I bowed, apologized several times and continued. Ten minutes later, I arrived at a police checkpoint. The officer complained that I was not cycling on the designated motorway. Oh come on, it’s not happening. Kindly, I explained him the earlier situation with the other police officer. He nodded with a smile, took a photo of my passport and let me pass.

    Many kilometers later, I was followed and stopped by a random car. My first thought was it is the police again. Not quite right, it was just a man who got out of his car and approached me with two cans. He passed me one of the cans and said “cheers“ (It looked like a soft drink but the taste was like beer with milk. Later, I found out that milk beer is quite a thing here in China). What a terrific welcome I thought! Slightly tipsy and fully energized, I cycled towards Yining with a few more stopovers to take photos with locals.

    But what pleases me most of all is the fact that people give you a smile. No matter where you go and who it is - the cashier at the supermarket, the security guard at the train station or a random person on the road. I missed that recently!
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  • Three nights in Yining

    2–5 set 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had a good time in the charming city of Yining. The old town offers colorful buildings and a variety of food stalls. It is also known as a hotspot for photo shootings with traditional clothing attracting dozens of tourists. And yet, it seems that I was the only westerner far and wide which did not bother me at all.Leggi altro

  • Train ride across China

    5–7 set 2024, Cina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Embarking on a 48 hour train ride across China from the western mountainous regions to the densely populated eastern cities gave me a glimpse of this vast and diverse country. It was unfortunate that all sleeper cabins were sold out quickly after the sale had started. Hard seat it was! My butt is used to a lot of sitting after all this cycling.
    Not only did I enjoy impressive views out of the window but also good company of some locals. Besides, it was a unique opportunity being on a booked out train with only Chinese for such a long time. The cultural customs and manners differ from ours after all. And that was an experience itself.
    Finally, I am thrilled that I made it to the third largest city on this planet - Shanghai.
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  • Special time with my host Luke

    7–11 set 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    In Shanghai, I stayed with my Warmshowers host Luke. He has been living there for many years together with his partner Alena, dog named Husky alias Chicken and cat.
    Luke has been an enthusiastic cyclist for decades. He has turned his passion for cycling into a business creating high quality gear for the bikepacking industry. One can really sense that he is doing it with so much love.
    Luke made my stay in Shanghai extremely comfortable. He showed me around, introduced me to the local cuisine and his friends, gave me a haircut and supported me with everything where needed.
    After spending four days in Shanghai and preparing everything for the flight to Japan, it was time to say goodbye. Hope to see you soon on the road buddy!
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  • The Modern Shanghai Part I

    8 settembre 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Every junction I reach in this enormous city holds something new. It is remarkable and I truly relish strolling through the streets. Unlike all the other cities I have recently visited, Shanghai is fairly quiet. Electric vehicles dominate the streets and hooting is forbidden (except for some scooters doing it occasionally).Leggi altro

  • The Traditional Shanghai

    9 settembre 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    At least to what I have seen, there’s not much of an old town left in Shanghai. There are certainly a few districts and many temples still existing for which I did not have enough time. There is just too much to explore. And yet, I found this traditional Chinese architecture and narrow alleys with plenty of food stalls delightful.Leggi altro

  • Shanghai by night

    9 settembre 2024, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Shanghai awakens when the daylight fades away. Walking through the city by night is a completely different experience. Stunning light shows and advertising catch everyone’s eyes - even mine!

  • Alternative programme in Japan

    11–15 set 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Me and my bike arrived safely to Nagoya, Japan. The first days in Japan could not have started better. I had a great time with my host Albert and his lovely family. Albert is a passionate cyclist himself who cycled all over Japan. His advice for my upcoming plans here in Japan are of great value for me.
    Albert picked me up at the train station where I assembled my bike. Together we cycled along the coast to his home. That was a magnificent ride at sunset!
    The remaining days, we cycled around town and the coast where he introduced me to some of his friends. There was for example Daichi who is building a skate park in his yard. He gave us a quick show on his BMX. We ate in different restaurants, visited a Reggae concert at the beach and went to a local bike shop to get my bike ready for cycling Japan. Watching the sunset on a SUP was one of my favourite moments.
    What’s more, I was invited to Albert‘s Junior High School where I gave a talk on my journey. At the same time, I had the pleasure to meet a few of his teaching colleagues from school. Overall, it was an amazing experience for which I am Albert and his family deeply thankful.
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  • Back on my bike

    15 settembre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was time to get back on my bike again after a 12-day break. The break was essential not only to enjoy other activities but also to recharge my batteries.
    I left Tokoname heading towards the mountains. Planning the route was not easy because of Japan’s extensive road network. The options are endless and require some research. And oh dear, the climbs are steep. On top of that comes the brutal humidity. But luckily my body adapts quickly.

    Before I went to Japan, I was told a few times that Japanese are reserved and won’t talk to me at all. Well, I thought I will make my own experience like anywhere else. I can make the first step too! Anyway, the people do not seem to be reserved at all. Sometimes they just talk to me and other times they just stop to give me snacks or water. For me, it is a great feeling to be so welcomed. I am thrilled to explore this beautiful country with its rich culture, diverse traditions and pristine landscapes.
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  • Mountains and forests

    22 settembre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I spend these days mostly in the mountains and remote forests. It is an outstanding cycling experience not only because of nature but also the so-called Rindo forest roads. These are old mountain pass roads that are mostly car-free and thus seldom used. Occasionally, I meet other cyclists. The pavement is still in great condition and the endless steep turns are hell of a fun. These roads often lead me to abandoned and tranquil places. I love it!

    With a typhoon that recently whirled over Japan including heavy rainfalls and strong winds, the days and particularly nights have become much cooler. I think autumn has arrived. Cycling is much more pleasant without the intense humidity and hot temperatures. It is now just a matter of time until the golden autumn changes the forests into golden yellow colours.
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  • Sights and other things

    26 settembre 2024, Giappone ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I’m heading further up north and notice that the days are getting shorter. Weather can be extremely variable in some places and the forecast cannot be trusted. At least I can get my warmer clothes and rain slicker out again which I haven’t used in a while.
    Apart from cycling, I visit some sights such as the Temples and Shrines of Nikko or the Castle of Aizuwakamatsu. The architecture of these buildings and the history behind is quite spectacular.

    By the way, today I have been on the road for half a year. It’s absurd how time flies and what I have experienced since the start of my journey. I am grateful for all the unforgettable memories and in particular the people who helped me along the way. That neither my knees nor neck made any problems is still unimaginable for me. Thanks body!
    How much longer my journey will continue I don’t know. I have a good time here in Japan and figure out my further plans whenever I think it’s time. Happy cycling in the meantime!
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  • Hi ocean!

    26 settembre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I have arrived at the open ocean. Long time no see. I could just sit there for hours, relish the breeze and listen to the sound of the waves. The temperatures are mild and still perfect to go for a swim. So far, I did not cycle through any small fishing villages but rather towns with big factories and fish farms. Sooner or later this will surely change too.Leggi altro

  • Rest day at Waichi San‘s

    28–30 set 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I took a rest day in a tiny village called Sanriku. The village was stricken by the tsunami and earthquake disaster in 2011 and had to be rebuilt from scratch. The place where I stayed belongs to Waichi San. Together with other locals involved, Waichi San reconstructed the playful yellow house under the motto “Let’s go hand in hand“. Not only has it become a memorial to remember the catastrophe but also a place where travelers like me can rest for a few days. It is open non-stop for everyone - just show up and feel like a home.
    Waichi San and I spent some time together. In the morning, he showed me his secret place in the mountains. Up there, a spectacular view can be enjoyed in absolute tranquility. I was happy that I was being chauffeured to the top of the mountain in his jeep. My bike took a day off too and stayed in the village. Later in the afternoon, we visited his house by the sea where his friends live. The location is absolutely breathtaking. Far from civilisation and probably a nightmare in snowy winter. There is only a steep gravel road going to this remote place.
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  • Made it to Hokkaido

    3 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    I was a little hung-over when I took the ferry from Honshu to Hokkaido. It was one of those unexpected events the nights before. At a free campsite in Oma, I met two other cyclists, Tadas from Lithuania and Hendrik from Sweden. A Japanese from Osaka whose name I cannot remember, joined us and shared lots of food and booze with us. It was a lovely night with a bunch of stories and interesting recommendations about Japan. Having these kind of social interactions are crucial for me and I missed it lately.

    The weather forecast for the first two days on Hokkaido was not very promising - heavy rainfall and low temperatures. Seems like it’s high time to spend another day in an Onsen. Onsen are hot springs and can be found all over Japan. They are an important part of the Japanese culture and are thus top attractions not only among locals but also tourists. Perfect for a cyclist like me.
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  • Lovely Hokkaido

    6 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Autumn has arrived on Hokkaido. The colours are gorgeous and cycling feels so incredibly good. The appreciation for the sun coming out on after the rainy days is endless.
    Hokkaido is such a flourishing island with countless flowers, farmland and golden forests. It is by far not as mountainous as I had expected. That’s opportune timing!

    Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido, is the first city that I really enjoy. The vibes are good and it feels authentic. I stroll through the city, visit a few popular places and spend some time in a park. Here and there, I have chats with some locals.

    I had left Sapporo and was now cycling on a more remote mountain road. Out of the sudden, I saw a police officer running at a nearby parking lot towards my direction. I knew that he would stop me for whatever reason, random passport controls are very unlikely here. Anyway, he just wanted to warn me that I was entering brown bear territory (The black bear lives on Honshu and the brown bear on Hokkaido). Awwwr, so kind! That’s typical Japanese caring which I appreciate so much. I thanked him, bowed and continued my way. I had a smile on my face and deep inside I was hoping to spot a brown bear. Don’t get me wrong, I certainly do not want to have a brown bear close to my tent but seeing one at day time from the distance would be a highlight for me as it is one of my most favourite animals. Chances are little and as I had anticipated, I did see nothing. Maybe another time, as my time in Hokkaido is by far not over.
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  • Northern Hokkaido

    9 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    And suddenly, I have reached the northernmost point of Japan - Cape Soya. The temperatures dropped day by day and the nights have become chill above all. 43 kilometers further north from Cape Soya lie the Kuril Islands that belong to Russia. On a clear day, it would have been possible to view their southern end. But not today.
    Heading south now. How far I don’t know, let’s find out!
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  • Sayonara Hokkaido!

    13 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    My time on Hokkaido is over and I must say that it was brilliant. Getting up between 04:00 - 05:00 am every day allowed me to witness the most spectacular sunrises. Cycling was magic so early in the mornings and also very cold.
    While the coast in the north is mostly flat, the south is rather hilly with lots of cliffs. My route has thus led me through numerous tunnels. It did not bother as there was little traffic and no sidewind.
    The ferry will take me back to Aomori where I continue cycling south.
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  • Typically Japanese

    18 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Back on Honshu, I eyed Mount Iwaki as my next mountain climb because of its endless serpentines leading to the top. So much was I looking forward to this. I was both, a bit scared and delighted, when I first saw this beauty from a far distance. Having arrived at the start of the serpentines, I hid my panniers behind a tree. There is only one way up, so I can get them later again when I ride downhill. After the first turn, I had a toll gate in front of me. The manager immediately signalled that bicycles are forbidden, only cars are allowed. What on earth!!?? I still don’t know the reason for it. And I did not want to bother the kind man, he is just doing his job. Maybe because it’s too dangerous or they cannot charge cyclists. Not the first time that there is some non-sense rule I came across. Whatever, I am certain that there will be many more mountains that I can cycle. And instead I enjoyed some calm and remote jungle roads that I had nearly for myself.

    By the way, did I mention how much I love Japanese supermarkets? They have a great variety of freshly prepared meals, microwaves, power sockets, wifi, a place to eat and sometimes even tea for free and a TV. It’s just perfect to rest for a while and recharge not only my batteries but also of electronics devices. Fun fact, I am often the youngest one sitting between all these elderly Japanese people. I love it!
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  • One thing leads to another…

    20 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    In recent times, I had quite a few obstacles and dead ends which were sometimes frustrating. But this one was indeed very painful. I had just climbed a mountain on a nasty gravel road when I encountered a gate saying „Construction workers only“. I did not notice anything before. Well, I could cycle either all the way back or lift my bike over it. I took off my panniers and climbed over the gate with my bike. The road worsened but at least it was going downhill as of now. A few kilometres later, the road was in perfect condition and I spotted a few diggers, trucks and scooters. But something felt strange! It was awkwardly silent and I did not meet a single soul in this valley since this morning. It felt like after a zombie apocalypse. My instinct told me to turn around but I continued. And suddenly I eyed two more scooters standing on the road. No no no, please no! Now everything makes sense why I did not meet a single soul. The road ahead was gone. A landslide has washed away everything. Okay, stay calm. I climbed to a wall beside of it and walked on the other side to see if I could somehow continue. I knew that the next town, Murakami, is roughly 10 kilometres away. But there was a second landslide and it was impossible to get my bike around this one. To the left was the river and to the right the ascent. I walked back and balanced over the wall. There was now only one option left. Cycling all the way up back to the mountain and lifting my bike over the gate again to get out of this valley asap. I must frankly say, I was a little scared. Why? I didn’t know, there was no particular reason. Maybe because of all the monkeys, bear poo I spotted on the road, knowing that I am this time really far from civilisation (Murakami felt far away as I couldn’t get there by bike and of course I had no signal) or that it was soon getting dark. By no means, I wanted to spend the night here. But hey, I was just outside of my comfort zone. It is like in our everyday‘s life when we encounter situations which we don’t feel comfortable with. We don’t know the reason. Anyways, I drank and snacked something and then cycled all the way back. It took quite a while and it was getting real cold. At twilight, I arrived in Tsuruoka where I went straight to the supermarket. I treated myself to delicious food and a cold beer. At least I made it, spotted lots of funny monkeys and remained calm. Okay, lesson learned - do not climb over gates! Cheers and good night!

    The next morning, I took the alternative route to Murakami along the coast. It was a pleasant 80 kilometer ride with some nice views. Awr, it could have been so easy from the beginning! Happens!
    I had just finished lunch and left Murakami, when I saw a lady waving with chocolate in her hand at the side of the road. I stopped. She handed me the chocolate and got out her translator in the meantime. Tei Souma was her name and she asked me to come to her home so that she could pray to the Buddha for me. Ahhmmm? Sure, why not. You must know that she was a very trusting and smiling person. She just said with a big smile “oh happy happy, thank you“ which I replied also with a smile “I’m happy too, thank you!“
    I parked my bike at the convenience store and hopped in her car. While Tei Souma was driving, she watched the baseball news, talked to me, used her translator and looked for something in her pockets. I was only thinking “oh madam please also pay attention to the traffic“. She got out money of her pocket and gave it to me. She also gave me a serious look and said “No“, which obviously meant that I should not even dare to refuse it. I had to promise that I would spend it on food. Alright, lady!
    We arrived at her house where she introduced me to her husband Takasi Souma and friend Tei Itagaki. I was treated with ice cream, tea and other snacks. Then we went upstairs where the two ladies started the prayer. I could sense that this whole ritual was really powerful and of great importance. I shall never forget it! Once it was over, they thanked me several times with “happy happy, Japan wonderful, thank you“. We walked back down again. After saying goodbye to her husband and friend, Tei Souma drove me back to the convenience store where I had left my bike. She immediately when into the store and came back with more bags. Food and drinks for me. Oh please, I cannot accept this I thought. We took a selfie, said goodbye with thousand thank you‘s and how happy we are. Off she was leaving the parking lot with full speed.
    Okay what just happened!? This whole thing from picking me up and dropping me off at the convenience store took maybe one hour. I packed all the snacks and drinks and started cycling again. I couldn’t hold it and just started laughing out loud for several minutes. Tei Souma is just such a happy person and her positives vibes and emotions are contagious. It took me a while until I processed this happening. She gave me so much energy, I felt strong like Lance Armstrong, Jan Ullrich and Tadej Pogačar together (Okay no, I was still slow like a snail on my heavy touring bike but at least it gave me a push for the rest of the day).
    Dear Tei Souma, thank you so much for this wonderful encounter! At any time, I would gladly cycle those painful 150 kilometres for you from the day before just to meet you again. As so often in life, one thing leads to another…
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  • Ainokura Village & Old Town of Kanazawa

    24 ottobre 2024, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today, I cycled back to the mountains to visit the traditional mountain village Ainokura which is located on a high plateau. The village is inscribed on the World Heritage List because of its unique gassho-style. For those of you who are further interested, here’s the citation of the description board: “The Gassho-style house is defined as one which has a thatched gable roof, with a truss-like structure and a roof slope steep enough to proyide adequate space for active use inside the roof volume. This type of farmhouse is very unique and not found in any other part of Japan. The large steeply-sloped roof is constructed to bear heavy snow loads as well as to provide several interior attic levels which could be utilized for sericulture. The Gassho-style house is the most rationally designed farmhouse type in Japan.“ Nowadays, the village is still inhabited and lies between some modern Japanese houses where local handicraft is made.

    I left the village right at the moment when the rain started. A few tunnels through the mountains allowed me good speed and kept me mostly dry. Since the day was still young, I decided to cycle until Kanazawa. There, I visited the old town. It was the first city where I met lots of other tourists and actually strolled through a lovely pedestrian zone. Dozens of craft shops and Japanese restaurants enrich the lovely district.
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