Italy | FindPenguins

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Trip start
June 3, 2024
Italy
Modena, Carpi and Parma
June 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Arrived in Austria with the flu so had to lay low
Here to see family but that was obviously a no.
We needed plenty of rest and hours of sleep
Before our June itinerary that we had to keep.

Our 16 year old Volkswagen Golf got uncovered
Serviced & the need of a new battery discovered.
Finally departed for our Italian road trip vacation
For Chris to practice his Duolingo conversation.

Five weeks to transverse Italy, shaped like a boot
Hours of research and planning for the best route.
Along with accommodation within our budget to spend
Free parking, a washing machine and beds with no end.

Crossed into Italy via the Brenner Pass bridges
Passing the Dolomites imposing granite ridges.
Overnight stop in the border town of Vipiteno
T’was unseasonably cold with cloud lying low.

Milky green streams gushed and waterfalls overflow
Nourishing orchards & vines passing through Trento.
From the highway glimpses of castle topped mounds
Driving to Modena where it has much flatter ground.

Stopped by our AirBnB to leave luggage in a safe space
Then navigated awhile to find a secure parking place.
Because stealing from cars like the rumours is true
Essential to leave car empty with nothing on view.

Modena is known for it’s Balsamic vinegar worldwide
It’s a small town easily explored minus a tourist guide.
Under decorative portico’s to Piazza Grande square
To Albinelli Food Market known for its local fresh fare.

Stall holders doing business made lively interaction
Sipping chilled Ruby Lambrusco a perfect distraction.
Walked into the bistro Franceshetta 58 on a hunch
Michelin star owners created a perfect tasty lunch.

Strolled along the city streets, seemingly quiet during siesta
Some decorated with umbrellas others preparing for a fiesta.
Drove into Carpi with it’s spacious Piazza long and wide
Bars placing tables and chairs along its awned, shady side.

As church bells toll, it is almost time for aperitivo
We people watched sipping a glass of Prosecco.
Crisps, nuts and olives accompanied our drinks
Could certainly settle into this lifestyle me thinks.

This region is known for Supercars, famously Ferrari
But also includes Lamborghini, Bugatti and Maserati.
The Maranello Ferrari Museum shows cars through the ages
Various speed racing models and their development stages.

Displayed on a farm where they make Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
The Umberto Panini’s private Maserati car collection sure does please.
Extremely impressive how many cars & motorcycles are on show
If you’re ever in this area I definitely recommend you should go.

Called into Parma to relive a most memorable meal
Perusing produce for the best ham and cheese deal.
Prosecco with pizza of Parma ham and Parmigiana
The perfect taste in this region of Emilia-Romagna.Read more
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Italy
Cinque Terre
June 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
For the next 3 nights our bed would be in La Spezia
A port town nestled on the craggy coast of Liguria.
Convenient to visit the infamous Cinque Terre trail
Plus the cliff clinging towns that are not for the frail.

Our check in was disrupted by an inconvenient delay
Navigated the centre with confusing road signs display.
Inadvertently turned into a ZTL, a limited traffic zone
A €100 fine result at which we did remorsefully moan.

Took an early morning train which adhered to the scenic coast
Alighted at Corniglia’s 285 stepped stairway that it does boast.
Negligible, compared to the next 4 kilometres of stairs we took
But the wonderful views were worth it from the highest outlook.

The route was challenging and I struggled to breathe
Awestruck by others who strode past with relative ease.
It’s an uneven, steep, narrow and loose rock trek
Determination empowered me, yet felt a wreck.

Thighs began to shake on the winding descent
Relief at stage completion although utterly spent.
As restaurants opened thankfully collapsed in a chair
Ordering a much anticipated Fettuccine frutti di Mare.

The waterfront of Vernazza is protected by a harbour wall
Heavily pedestrianised, exploration done only at a crawl.
As passengers on-mass clamber from cruise ship tenders
The shops and souvenir sellers try to capture the spenders.

The jumble of colourful homes are famous in this district
With a myriad of steep alleyways to discover the precinct.
Chris eager to continue the trail but it was hot
So went our separate ways as I would rather not.

Met up in Monterosso al Mare for a refreshing swim
It’s beach lined with umbrellas looking rather grim.
A sugar hit required so searched for gelato
Chris chose tiramisu whilst I had pistachio.Read more
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Italy
Cinque Terre day 2
June 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
A landslide caused Via dell’Amore to be closed
So a more difficult alternative route is proposed.
Chris was again eager to hike some more
I’d pulled a muscle and was feeling too sore.

So he set off from Maranola past the old mill wheel
I sipped a coffee, absorbing the scenery so surreal.
Access to these towns is only by train, foot or boat
Sense of community so strong when living this remote.

Mesmerised by the bobbing boats, secured to the quay
Tasted a slice of the local farinata, made from chickpea.
Liguria is well known for it’s tasty pesto vibrant green
Pesto making classes available for those into cuisine.

Enjoyed solo time before onto Riomaggiore I had to go
When sweat soaked and hungry, Chris finally did show.
A fresh T-shirt required so in the souvenir places shopped
Wood fired pizza devoured before onto a ferry we hopped.

Onto Porto Venere we did gently cruise
Into its enticing harbour town, to peruse.
Colourful homes and bobbing boats make quite a sight
Looked down upon by a church striped black and white.

Picturesque archways perfect to look through
Cliff caves and ocean create a calming view.
Aperitif sipped at a restaurant waterside
Along with a local dish of fish deep fried.

Ambled back to the ferry our pace very slow
Watching fading rays emit a warm amber glow.
Achievement satisfaction on reaching our stop
Feeling contented as finally into bed we did flop.Read more
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Italy
Tuscany
June 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
Tuscany’s full of many attractions that allure
Couldn’t drive past Florence without a detour.
Faced crowded walkways around a huge marquee
Restricting our movements & views unable to see.

Hard to appreciate the city or snap a photo
Entry lines expansive so tours we did forgo.
Shuffled with the throng to glimpse the main sights
Our panini & pizza lunches were a definite highlight.

Marchesi Antinori Vineyard was our next place
Famous for it’s Chianti and a spiral staircase.
Thrilled to experience wines worthy of a sip
All too soon driving to continue our road trip.

To Castelnuovo Berardenga where we laid our heads
On an old working vineyard with converted cowsheds.
Surrounded by vine & olive groves, great for a stroll
Observing sunset with vino was perfect for the soul.

Appreciative of the tranquility and view of our surrounds
Incredulous so much produce sprouts from the ground.
Relaxing in garden loungers as the sky turns red
Absorbing the special atmosphere just before bed.

In Asciano purchasing porchetta we had to wait
Anticipating it’s a flavour with pecorino on a plate.
Wine shops too tempting, a chilled rose had to try
Then Monteriggioni Castle we could not pass by.

Driving next day to the market we heard a clunk
Car halted and looked like our dream was sunk!
Visions of all our itinerary plans to postpone
Investigation discovered in the brakes, a stone.*

Arriving in Siena rode escalators to the main square
Lucky to witness a full parade of a Festa Titolare.
Locals in cultural costumes marched the streets paved
Drum beats reverberated & huge coloured flags waved.

Piazza del Campo is such a welcoming space
Red bricked buildings & a tall tower to embrace.
Water bottles refilled from the Fountain of Joy
In the shade of the Cathedral an aperol to enjoy.

Admiring it’s façade with carvings so intricate
Colourful stained glass and frescoes delicate.
In every corner discover a myth or a story
Do not overlook this great medieval glory.

* car was normal once stone removed.Read more
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Italy
Saturnia
June 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Headed further south over the Grosseto mountain range
The vegetation became lusher as the scenery did change.
Observed many festive flags fluttering in local towns
Piaggios the favoured transport despite hilly ground.

Medieval walled villages clustered high to defend
Only reached by roads with multiple hairpin bends.
Chose to stay a few nights at the base of Manciano hill
At a beautiful B and B with gardens extremely tranquil.

Our primary purpose to visit Saturnia’s natural spa
As thermal waters spew from the earth in Maremma.
Due to Jupiter angered by Saturn throwing a thunderbolt
It’s strike supposedly creating this unique geological fault.

Used by many civilisations before our time
Evident by burial sites along meridian lines.
Ventured out to an ancient Entruscan Necropolis
Where tree shaded tombs ensued somber solace.

Arose early at five thirty to avoid the tourist masses
Changed into bathers amongst the tufts of grasses.
Water temperature 35 degrees smelling sulphuric
Wallowed in various sized pools feeling euphoric.

As the steamy waters rushed past the old grain mill
Cascading down and over pools that constantly refill.
Adjusted ourselves to the smell and worms red
Free to enter or pay at a private resort instead.Read more
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Italy
Lazio region, Rome
June 12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Travelling onwards towards Rome decided to take a break
Stopping in the small town of Marta situated by a large lake.
Enjoyed an affogato then noticed a sign for a special race
Further investigation concluded we’d be in the right place.

Navigating the capital’s chaotic traffic, lucky to secure a park
Unpacked in our small apartment plus a quick shop before dark.
Studied landmarks, bus stops and metro routes
A full itinerary planned, requiring walking boots.

Squeezed ourselves onto a commuter bus, holding on tight
Counting down the stop numbers for the correct one to alight.
Hoping our early start the tour buses we would evade
Walking along alleyways, appreciating the cool shade.

At our first point of interest waterways meet numbering three
Where there’s an impressive sculpture & a fountain called Trevi.
Tossed a coin over our shoulders ensuring our return
We will definitely need to as there’s so much to learn.

Onto the domed rotunda of the Pantheon, portico columns tall
Wandered around Campo de’ Fiori multitude of market stalls.
Romulus and Remus myths abound along the Tiber River side
Crossing via Ponte Sisto bridge where the water’s not too wide.

A refreshing drink sipped in the bohemian area of Trastevere
Prior to climbing steep Janiculum Hill to Gianicolo Belvedere.
Via Garibaldi lined with plane trees and statues was pretty
It’s lookout boasts incredible views of this iconic capital city.

A deafening cannon boom signified that it was midday
Strolled a few miles downtown towards Vaticano way.
Lunch at Mama Eats, everything deliciously gluten free
Then by St Angelos Castle rested under a shady tree.Read more
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Italy
Vatican City, Rome
June 13, 2024 in Vatican City ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Ensuring entry to the Vatican a tour you must book
With so many artefacts hard knowing where to look.
Shuffled along with the hoards unable to make a turn
Past intricately carved statues & smooth marbled urns.

Our blue haired guide informing our earphones from the helm
The ostentatiousness of exhibits made me feel overwhelmed.
Privileged to see amazing wall tapestries up so close
But felt quite appalled by so many things grandiose.

Historical relics on show some enhanced with gold leaf
Listening to stories of grotesque pillage in utter disbelief.
Lengthy corridors with ceilings adorned with incredible art
The artist skills truly admired but I just wanted to depart.

Exited out into the infamous Saint Peter’s square
Grateful for the Basilica’s shade and fresh air.
It’s importance to all Catholics I can appreciate
The Vatican City, one of two Italian micro states.

Totally exhausted needed to navigate our way home
Not so simple those underground tunnels in Rome!
Ascending endless stairs finally excited to see
An avenue lined with colourful revving Ferraris.

The Mille Miglia race cars cruising along Via Venito
Resulted in peak hour chaos with areas a no go.
Had to wait for our return bus for over an hour
Relieved to get back for a well deserved shower.Read more
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Italy
Colosseum & Roman Forum, Rome
June 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After a good sleep awoke with renewed gusto
Venturing back out to the maze that’s the metro.
Santa Maria de Maggiore another catholic showpiece
In it’s adjoining piazza, a towering Column of Peace.

Became a little lost in Piazza Vittorio, ending in a spat
Met some other Aussies over a cocktail and travel chat.
Revived and managing to portray a sense of decorum
Then another guide to view ruins of the Roman Forum.

There are few remains left therefore so much is surmised
Leading up to the Roman archaeological wonder so prized.
The Colosseum where visitors can imagine fighting of gladiators
Practically hearing crowds roar relishing acts from the tormentors.

Feeling our sore feet, calves and quadriceps
Took a bus to our last stop, the Spanish Steps.
Where folk drank fountain water & took snaps
Whilst the sun faded, did a last peruse of maps.

Trevi fountain revisited experiencing a different time of day
Ate delicious gelato, watching hawkers set up their displays.
Capital cities have to be seen but are just so congested
Absorbed so much info, time for the brain to be rested.Read more
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Italy
Pompeii, Campagna
June 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Our drive continued on south to the Campania region
Avoided a city stay as seeing Pompeii was our reason.
Checked into a typical, homely Nona style AirBnB
To experience Italian life, not the chaos of Almafi.

A trip to the local supermarket for supplies wanting
Became precarious with the traffic quite daunting.
Back streets appeared dirty with rubbish strewn
As to dogs barking! neighbours seemed immune.

Cats are cute & plentiful with so many stray
Sat on the balcony watching kittens at play.
Church bells tolled calling the devout to prayer
BBQs fired up, the smell of grilling filled the air.

From our bedroom window we could see the imposing volcano
But our first local foray was to experience the ruins of Ercalano.
This lesser known excavation site known as the Herculeum
With incredibly detailed old frescoes in its small museum.

To visit Pompeii it’s again necessary to book a tour
Avoiding long lines we joined a guide once more.
Walked along chariot worn streets with kerbs so deep
Into shells of Roman shops and abodes we got to peep.

Remnants and artefacts hint at a privileged livelihood
Grand fountains and mosaics depict homes were good.
An affluent & opulent lifestyle frozen in destruction
During 79 AD after Mount Vesuvius’s major eruption!

As the ground shook & earth’s larva plumed
Countless people died, eternally entombed
Aware of the earthquake but mpossible to make a dash,
Forever fossilised under 20 metres of hot, volcanic ash.Read more
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Italy
Procida Island, Gulf of Naples
June 16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Needing to escape the horrible history awhile
Boarded a ferry over to beautiful Procida Isle.
Not as famous as it’s sister, the Isle of Capri
But often used by producers making movies.

Candy coloured homes tumble down the hill to the foreshore
Restaurant dishes of seafood and lemon is what it’s known for.
Pasta Vongole for lunch accompanied with a glass of wine
Then to the beach with its distinct black sand shoreline.

The clarity of the ocean enticed us in for a dip
Waiting for the return ferry chose an aperol to sip.
With a coffee and tasty snacks t’was the best value
Gulf of Naples cruised, watching the sky change hue.

Chris insisted on a wood fired pizza famous in Naples
Devoured perched on a wall as there were no tables.
While the St. Antonio celebratory fireworks boom
We were happy to retreat with G&Ts in our room.

Trekking in thirty five degree heat I totally dislike
Hence Chris alone did the Mt Vesuvius rim hike.
Later checked out a vineyard on the volcanic slope
But the hospitality and wines were not as we hoped.Read more
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Italy
Matera, Basilicata
June 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
Matera in the Basilicata region was to be our next stop
A few hours drive past acres of harvested wheat crops.
A scorcher of a day reaching temperatures of 39 degrees
Our Spanish farmhouse accommodation didn’t displease.

Such a welcoming oasis set amongst arid fields
Lack of rain resulting in dust & very poor yields.
In the aircon coolness of our room indulged in a nap
Before venturing into Matera armed with google maps.

An ancient city of cave dwellings carved into limestone
Incredulous that people lived in these clustered homes.
Tiny windowless abodes for a family of four or more
The ceiling of one doubles as another home’s floor.

Community respect required allowing general survival
But tempers would flare and suddenly you’re a rival.
The Palombaro Lungo cistern provided water for life
Alongside numerous mosquitoes so disease was rife.

Inhabited until 1950’s when it was declared Italy’s shame
Government had to respond quickly for they were to blame.
Improvements slowly made watched by the media vulture
Until in 2019 it was deservedly named as a city of culture.Read more
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Italy
Sassi of Matera
June 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
So hard to describe when viewing it for the first time
An enticing architectural jumble formed out of lime.
The two Sassi areas from the lookout totally amaze
Pondering navigation of the stepped, street maze.

Descended towards the centre via narrow alleyways
The old unique rock churches we need to appraise.
Allowed ourselves to get lost, with the flow we went
Appreciating it’s beauty and original carved, wall vents.

Definitely a place like no other, full of incredible assets
Understand it’s lure for many Hollywood movie sets.
Dined in a cave restaurant, delicious food on our plates
Indulged in balcony cocktails whilst for dark we await.

Certainly special as the Sassi glow with electric light
Past horrors hidden, makes for an atmospheric sight.
Returned past highlighted remodelled city structures
Admiring the intricate Andre Roggi tree sculptures.

The following morning we’re slow to rise from our bed
Greeted at breakfast with an unbelievable food spread.
Local, handmade, gluten free, choice products available
A surprising tasty banquet which covered over two tables.

Completely fulfilled and topped up with extra caffeine
Went to the other side of the valley overlooking a ravine.
Uninhabited caves abound waiting for us to explore
The unexpected pleasure of the area left us in awe.Read more
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Italy
Monopoli & Ostuni, Puglia
June 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Moving onto Apulia our journey was short
Along the Adriatic coast and Monopoli port.
Wandered through alleyways to the harbour view
Looked splendid with bobbing boats painted blue.

Admired the area with an apéritif in the main square
Plus a seafood pizza made with the freshest of fare.
Luckily we’d parked in a zone at no cost
As on finding our way back, got rather lost.

Our accommodation was a typical Trulli home
With white stone walls and a roof like a cone.
Completely fitted out despite the rooms being small
Kept shaded and cool due to the thickness of walls.

The trellised patio covered with a sprawling vine
Proved the perfect place to sample the local wine.
As the days heat dissipated along came a breeze
Refreshing the air, rustling through the olive trees.

Cutting down any olive trees you’d be fined
Yet sadly due to disease so many have died.
Drove past endless olive groves for many miles
Farmers planting new ones continuing a lifestyle.

Chance to wash away dust from the last few days
Went to Spiaggio delle Dune for a swim and a laze.
Before visiting Ostuni town which did enthrall
Made famous for it’s painted, instagram wall.Read more
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Italy
Alberobello & Locorotondo, Puglia
June 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
Alberobello’s cluster of Trullis makes a rare sight
For many a tourist stopping here is their highlight.
Though the whitewashed Locorotondo is my pick
With snail like alleyways and stairs more authentic.

Iron fretwork over windows, outside tables and chairs
Flowering plants in pots and cushions line the stairs.
Figs growing wild along with thyme and bay
Amongst cacti watched two kittens at play.

As crowds increased our quaint Trulli did appeal
Returning to calmness, enjoying an evening meal.
Our Australian neighbours came and joined us
Their intensive travel itinerary we got to discuss.

Swapped stories and antidotes late into the night
Next morning gave them a lift to catch their flight.
Further north stopped in Barletta another local town
Enjoyed a fresh seafood lunch before looking around.

500km driven along the coastal highway sixteen
Saw hundreds of flowering oleanders in between.
Stopped by the towns Recanati & Grottammare
To chill out on the beach on a lined up sun chair.Read more
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Italy
San Marino and Rimini
June 27, 2024 in San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Another country within Italy is the Republic of San Marino
With three imposing towers perched high on Mount Titano.
Being just 61 square kilometres it is it’s own micro state
With steep hills the best way to explore is to perambulate.

Along the rugged ridge line known as the Witches Pass
With views for miles across the surrounding land mass.
As far as the eye can see out to the Adriatic Sea
Where there’s the quaint coastal town of Rimini.

Here the Ponte di Tibero across the river does span
This ancient five arched bridge built by the Romans.
Cute shops and backstreets enticing the visitor
Rewarded with colourful frescos full of character.Read more
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Italy
Ravenna
June 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Ravenna is a place that wasn’t originally on our list
Once read about it decided it shouldn’t be missed.
Previously a capital now home to 8 UNESCO sites
Bland façade buildings containing mosaic delights.

Enter the Basilica of San Vitale via an imposing door
Millions of tiny coloured tiles form images that awe.
Almost like a painted picture with detail so intricate
Extreme patience required producing art so delicate.

Smooth marble stone and alabaster columns uphold
Cherished scenes depicted in mosaics of blue & gold.
Even the vast floors are inlaid with miniature tiles
Each building varying differently in it’s design style.

With the region being flatter it is easy to walk around
Discovering yet another surprise in this unique town.
Unassumingly in a shaded corner, almost tucked away
Lies the tomb of the poet Dante, just a simple display.

We lunched at Ca’de Ven known for it’s piadina
“The bread of Romagna” is famous here in Ravenna.
Our choice probably not the best, as it was rather plain
But happy for the experience and so very glad we came.Read more
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Italy
Bologna
June 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Bologna always conjures up visions of food
Arriving to find a vibe of an expectant mood.
As the Tour de France would inaugurally pass this town
The impending event disrupting our ability to walk around.

Chris embarked on a food tour including many pastas
Made by nimble fingers of Nonna’s who are the masters.
Unappealing for me as it involves too much wheat flour
Strolled the Maggiore Piazza with the two leaning towers.

Now closed to the public as too dangerous to ascend
Wandered endless shady porticos with hardly a bend.
Columned & arched differently all designed to stay cool
A plethora of businesses and gelato to make you drool.

62 kilometres of arcades enables so much to view
Partook of lasagne for lunch with Bolognian ragout.
Stumbled across a graffitied window in disguise
Opening to view a canal, was certainly a surprise.

As the day’s humidity rose we headed to the ME train
A short ride to our accommodation, functional but plain.
Chosen for proximity to watch Tour de France riders pass by
Anticipation grew excitement, disappeared in a blink of an eye.

Beautiful San Luca Sanctuary is perched high on a hill
To climb up under 666 porticos you would get your fill!
Architecturally well built with a calm serene atmosphere
Quietly appreciated, before we had to move on from here.Read more
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Italy
Lake Como
July 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Navigated around Milan as another city we did not seek
Whilst rain drizzled down, the first we’ve seen in 4 weeks.
Through Lecco and mountain tunnels arriving at Dervio
A quiet town nestled on the eastern shore of Lake Como.

Awoke early for our visit to well known Varenna
Parking secure before hoards land at the marina.
Lengthy boardwalks that follow the lakes contours tight
Plus multiple stairs to Monstero garden’s infamous sight.

Amongst lush vegetation manicured pathways meander
Surreal panoramas from wide stone columned verandas.
Every corner presents opportunity for a stunning view
Posing for photos like the many instagrammers do.

Up steep streets and along back alleys we strode
Forgoing Bellagio as the ferry passengers unload.
Chose to move along into Bellano that proved ideal
To stroll unhindered & enjoy a local lunchtime meal.

It’s unique gondola boats rested aside the quay
As we perused local market stalls open that day.
Then visited the Santa Maria di Piona monastery
Its aged frescoes and silent cloisters felt solitary.

Our final stop in Italy was by the double Fraggia Waterfall
Driving into Switzerland via twisting Maloja Pass at a crawl.
Beautiful vistas of mountains still snow capped in July
Aside Lake Silversee then Saint Moritz continued on by.

Entered Austria again and overnight in Wiesing did rest
Our five week road trip of Italy has surely been the best.
Memories and knowledge gained definitely recommendable
Gold medal awards to Chris and our VW Golf, so dependable.Read more
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Trip end
July 5, 2024