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El Camino de Santiago

сентября - октября 2024
40-дневное приключение от Bron Читать далее
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  • 41следов
  • 40дней
  • 534фотографий
  • 15лайков
  • 656миль
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Сначала новые
  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 12

    Back on the Road

    20 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Started in the dark this morning, with it getting just light enough as the street lights ended around two miles from the hotel. Today's surfaces were great and although we did just over 430m of climbing most of it was a manageable gradient. It did rain for an hour but that didn't seem to slow us down. We got into Najera just before 1pm, we were amazed how the time seemed to fly by today.

    About 4hrs in, Josh, who we'd met again yesterday afternoon, caught us on his bike and stopped for a chat. He had his left hand and knee bandaged, as less than an hour ago, he tried taking a photo whilst cycling and ended up hitting the deck quite hard. It seems as though there is no special protection for pilgrims! This was the last we will see of him as he will be in Leon in 5 days time, we will be there in 13 days time.

    This seems to be the first place we have stayed in that doesn't have a medieval background. Seems much more modern yet at the same time a bit run down.

    Logroño to Najera
    Distance: 17.61
    Time: 5hrs 54mins
    Speed: 3mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 13

    The Last of the Vineyards

    21 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It rained heavily overnight but by 07:40 it had stopped, leaving a misty, muggy morning. Though I think I prefer that to cold mornings, which are probably coming as we get into October.

    We had probably our last roadside grape breakfast this morning as the vineyards started to give way to larger fields of more traditional crops.

    About 10 miles in, just after the village Cirinuela, we went up a small rise and then suddenly in front of us the whole horizon opened up, a rolling patchwork of different fields, in several shades, at different angles and the Camino stretching out in front of us. It was as surprising as it was breathtaking, again the photos just don't do it justice.

    We got in at 12:15 and luckily our room was ready. So quickly got showered, changed and out to look around the town and something to eat before the heavens opened. The town of Santo Domingo was 1,000 years old in 2019.

    Today we are staying in a parador, which is a former convent or monastery converted into a hotel. We wanted to try one out to see what it was like. There are a number of these along the route and are apparently government owned. Though they are literally 10 times the price of a room in a dormitory, albeit we are only doing 4 dormitories. The first we did to see what it was like, the other three because there was nothing else available.

    Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada
    Distance: 13:58
    Time: 4hrs 24min
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 14

    Leaving La Rioja

    22 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    By 5 miles this morning we were officially out of the wine region of La Rioja and into the province of Burgos. Not only were there no grapes for breakfast but the blackberry bushes and the odd fig tree also seemed to have disappeared.

    We passed through six villages today when normally it's two or three. The advantage is that it breaks up the walk and there is the interest of passing though different places. The disadvantage is that almost every village is built in high ground and you have a climb up to get to them.

    This morning it was Carol's turn for her calf to tighten up, so we had to slow down from the pace we had been setting the last couple of days. However, we still got to our accommodation for 12:00. A quick shower, a tour of Belorado and then a pilgrims lunch, €14 each, for 3 courses and a bottle of wine between us.

    There was an outdoor area outside our accommodation where people were drinking as we returned from our lunch in town at around 15:30. From a distance it sounded rather rowdy, though as we got there we recognised some of the people making all the noise and before we knew it we were introduced to the rest of the group and were there for the next couple of hours.

    My only escape was that I'd booked a massage at 18:00, which probably save me from myself!

    Santo Domingo to Belorado
    Distance: 13.68 miles
    Time: 4hrs 43min
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 15

    A Day on Higher Ground

    23 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Another of those days where we couldn't get accommodation at the guide books suggested finishing point, San Juan. So we had to walk nearly an extra 4 miles to Atapuerca making this our longest walk so far.

    This was our 11th day of walking, so a third of the way to Santiago in days and just over in distance, at around 165 miles.

    First light is now not until 07:40, so got the head torch out for the first time today and set off at 07:00. It felt like the first two miles in the dark we got for free.

    After about 5km we saw an old boy ahead walking with what looked like a granny's shopping trolley attached to his waist, trailing behind him. It looked so awkward, jarring from one side to the other over the rough ground. He was stopping every few hundred metres, how he got up some of today's 20%+ climbs I don't know. I know there is supposed to be an element of suffering, but that is totally self inflicted. You can have your bags taken ahead for you for €7 a day. What he was doing was akin to self-flagellation.

    I knew we were staying in a hostel tonight but didn't realise we were in a room of 4. The other two were a Japanese bloke who didn't speak a word of English and an American woman. In fact there are only 4 nights out of 37 where we are sharing and this is the 3rd one. We had the communal 3 course evening meal, soup, pasta with slices of meat and then a custard dessert, it was all lovely.

    There were a dozen people round a large table, at our end were the American woman who was in our room, an Irish bloke and an English guy. As people drifted away after the meal the 5 of us hoovered up the remaining part bottles of wine, then opened a new one that was on the side and continued chatting till it was all gone. It was now 21:30, lights out is 22:00 in these places and I still had stuff to do like finish today's post!! Which I have now done with 5 mins to spare.

    Belorado to Atapuerca
    Distance: 19.43 miles
    Time: 6hrs 45min
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 16

    A Very Impressive Entrance

    24 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The extra miles we did yesterday meant we only had about 13 miles to do today, hardly worth lacing our boots up!

    Since the first day we haven't been lower than around 400m above sea level. Though, since Logroño we have been steadily climbing each day. Yesterday we topped out at 1,150m and the start of today's walk was about 960m. So despite today's warm forecast it was jacket, hat and gloves for the first couple of hours or so.

    After a sharp climb over the first mile the rest of the day was a gentle downhill into Burgos. We walked part of the way with David, the English guy we had dinner with last night and then also an American couple for the last few miles.

    We took a slightly longer but more scenic route into Burgos, following the river Arlanzon through woods and parkland. The entrance into the old town was through a stunning city gate which brought you into a large square with the hugely impressive Santa Maria cathedral in front of you.

    I was impressed by the gate and the cathedral in 2024, so how must pilgrims in the middle ages have reacted. I can only imagine that witnessing such a sight for the first time would have strengthened their faith and their resolve to reach Santiago.

    We have a lovely little apartment for the next two nights, with washing machine! So after lunch, apart from a visit to the cathedral, free entry 16:30 - 18:30, only on Tuesdays, result. It was a quick wander around the local area, followed by 3 loads of washing. Not that we have that many clothes but we were governed by the number of radiators that we had to dry them on.

    Atapuerca to Burgos
    Distance: 13.07 miles
    Time: 4hrs 29mins
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 17

    A Day Off in Burgos

    25 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We woke up about 9am this morning and as I laid there I felt like I could continue to do so for the rest of the day. It's really interesting how if you keep going you can keep going, but the moment you stop you wonder how on earth you managed it. Need to make the most of today's opportunity to recharge the batteries as the next one will be in Leon, in eight days time.

    The weather this morning was murky and drizzley. So we left it until 11am when it brightened a little before heading out to explore a little more of Burgos. We walked up to Burgos castle, which Wellington failed to take from the French, despite a 35 day siege, during the Peninsular War in 1812. However, it was shut for a refurb. There was a lovely panoramic view from there over the city. Though we never saw it because of the misty drizzle.

    With the weather taking a turn for the worse, we bought some food, cider and spent afternoon resting up in the apartment and watching some mindless stuff on amazon prime.

    By early evening it had dried and warmed up, so we found a lovely lounge bar, with comfy seats, easy music, good food and drinks. Then it was an early night for our first of eight early starts.

    P. S. The comfy seats are now a must, as with the weight I've lost so far I'm finding sitting on hard wooden or metal seats rather uncomfortable!    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 18

    Population Zero

    26 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Laying in bed this morning I could hear the wind blowing hard. The forecast was for 20mph+ winds and rain from 8am, unfortunately the forecast was correct. It rained more on than off and the wind was pretty constant. The first time we saw the sun all day was the moment we arrived at the hostel.

    We had left at 7am as we had an extra 3.5 miles today, as again there was no room at the suggested stop, Hornillos, a one horse town with a population of 70 people. So we spent the evening in San Bol, in the middle of the Maseta, population 0. The place consisted of one building, the municipal hostel, run by a lady who comes in at 2pm, books people in, cooks the communal meal, goes home and in the morning comes back and cleans, goes home then comes back in the afternoon and does it all again. The instruction before she left in the evening was for the last person leaving in the morning to lock up and put the key in the post box. A rather trusting set up.

    Only two other people decided to spend the night here, a 25 year old American lad and a 30ish year old Dutch girl. They knew each other having met at a previous hostel, she definitely had a thing for him though he seemed to play it pretty cool. So in lieu of much else to do, with no signal or WiFi, we spent the afternoon until dinner at 7pm drinking a few beers and getting to know each other, just like you used to do before the days of mobile phones.

    After dinner we climbed up the hillside to catch the sunset but the point at which you could see it just seemed to get further and further away. So we just took some photos from there against the backdrop of the setting sun, the light was amazing.

    Burgos to San Bol
    Distance: 16.5 miles
    Time: 5hrs 48min
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 19

    A Very Short Day

    27 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    With no mobile reception or WiFi, we had to resort to the old fashioned method of weather forecasting, sticking your head out the window. The wind has dropped significantly and there was broken cloud, so better than hoped for as originally it was supposed to be two days of high winds and rain.

    The two youngsters we shared the albergue with last night both have a very different approach to our scheduled days and our pre-booked accommodation. They tend to decide on the day how far they want to walk, where they want to stay, if they don't like the look of a village they just move on. They spend each night in dorms trying to keep the costs to a minimum. Sounds quite free and liberating, however, the certainty of a bed in a private room each night sounds more appealing to me.

    There were 4 places where we couldn't do that. Yesterday was our last night in a dorm and our best experience as there were only 4 of us in there. We were told that the previous night there were 11 people in that room and the hostel only has one toilet. I'm still shuddering at the thought of that.

    Today was our shortest walk for the whole trip, so even with a late start of 08:25 we were still done before 11:15. So we had a wander around town, visited a disused church where they showed a video projected onto the ceiling and had other videos and info about the Camino in medieval times. Entry for pilgrims was one euro and that was for both of us!

    So after a long, late lunch we had a couple of drinks back at our accommodation, a small beer and a red wine was 3 euros. I couldn't believe the price so had to have another round to make sure. We then just relaxed in our room, no chasing sunsets tonight.

    San Bol to Castrojeriz
    Distance: 8.21 miles
    Time: 2hrs 49mins
    Speed; 2.9 mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 20

    A Solo Walk

    28 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    There was a huge drop in the wind today but also in the temperature, it was 3 degrees at 8am. I know it isn't southern Spain but certainly wasn't expecting these temperatures in September. Though by 9am it had shot up to 4 degrees. Although it was 5 degrees colder today it felt 10 degrees warmer with no wind and walking in the sun.

    This morning Carol wasn't feel well at all, so rather than setting off and then feeling even worse in the middle of nowhere we decided it would be better for her not to walk today. So at 10am which was check out time she took a ride to Formista.

    I left earlier at 08:30 to walk this leg on my own. Though in many ways I wasn't on my own, as I was soon passing lots of people we have met along the way. The one thing that was annoying was the distance for today in the guide book was almost a mile shorter than the actual distance. Not a lot really but when you've got your mind set on a certain distance that extra mile goes on for ages.

    Carol was feeling a lot better when I met up with her just before 1pm. However, as a precaution. we spent the rest of the day in the room relaxing.

    Castrojeriz to Fromista
    Distance: 16.44 miles
    Time: 4hrs 24mins
    Speed: 3.7mph    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникEl Camino de Santiago
    День 21

    Back on the Road Again

    29 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After an afternoon and evening of resting, hydrating and carbing up Carol felt a lot better this morning . With it being a shorter and flatter walk today she was keen to give it a go.

    Before we knew it we were back up to normal pace which was great and after a couple of miles were joined by a young German bloke, Nico, for the next 8 miles. The conversation was a great distraction for her and the miles just took care of themselves.

    It was a very unusual stage today, about 95% of the route was on a path alongside the road to Carrion. Which wasn't too bad as it was Sunday morning and I think the Spanish do like a lay in. There was an alternative greener route, but it was longer, so didn't fancy that today.

    After checking in just after 1pm we had a wander round a lively town centre, had lunch, did some laundry and then spent the rest of the day in the room for some more rest and recuperation.

    Fromista to Carrion de la Condes
    Distance: 11.66 miles
    Time: 3hrs 47mins
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Читать далее

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