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El Camino de Santiago

September - October 2024
A 40-day adventure by Bron Read more

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  • Spain
  • France
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  • 656miles traveled
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  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    22
    Day 1

    A Very, Very Early Start

    September 9, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The first thing that entered my head as the alarm went off at 02:20 was that perhaps in hindsight going on a boys trip to Puerto Banus for the last 3 days wasn't one of my best ideas.

    However, the plan was to spend a couple of nights in Barritz to recover, before setting out on what is planned to be a 37 day journey on foot from St Jean Pied de Port, in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. That's the plan anyway.

    To say Biarritz is compact is an under statement, from touching down at the airport to arriving at our city centre hotel took 62 mins, including walking the 1.75 miles between the two.

    Despite the recovery plan for today I still managed 23,000 steps exploring this Basque town, which is big on surfing and food.

    The old harbourside restaurant we had dinner in was recommended to us by some random bloke walking his dog, who stopped and gave us a potted history of Barritz, as we stood at a clifftop viewing spot. An example of Basque hospitality or a harbourside restaurant owner, still not a 100% sure!    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Day 2

    Trip To A Medieval Town

    September 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we took a 40 min bus ride to Bayonne, 8km, but a world away from Barritz. Via a pit stop in Decathlon along the way for an extra pair of hiking socks and a head torch, just in case!

    Biarritz in it's current form is around 250 years old, Bayonne is around 900 years old, so hugely different architecture. A very late breakfast, including beer, sangria, and a board full of meat was followed by several hours wandering the medieval streets and visiting castles, cathedrals and the odd souvenir shop.

    After a recovery nap in the late afternoon, it was out for a happy hour drink and then onto the The Newquay pub for the England game. Where we came across two heavily tattooed blokes with their tops off for some sort of photo shoot, totally random.

    However, regarding the football, there was one issue, Holland were playing Germany tonight and that was the only game they could show. A guy, Max, on the table next to us went back to his hotel to get his tablet for us all to watch the England game. We were joined by a couple from Bournemouth, Caroline and Russ who were proper party people and all of a sudden a couple of quiet drinks watching the football turned into beers, shots and what have we got ourselves into.    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    22
    Day 3

    Last Day of Slacking

    September 11, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Because of, or inspite of last night, I slept really well, it must have been the jagerbombs that did the trick.

    A 30 min bus trip back to Bayonne, a stroll around the streets near the station, a haircut so I can save on the amount of Head and Shoulders I use (I've only got a small bottle, travelling light) and before we knew it we were on the 12:35 train to St Jean Pied de Port, from where tomorrow we start the Camino.

    The two large carriages were full on departure and about 80% of the people on there had the same idea as we did. On arrival the first task was to register at the pilgrim office and get our official pilgrim pass, the queue took an hour to get through. Many hostels on the route won't let you in without one and it has to be stamped at your stops along the way.

    The village itself is in the foothills of the Pyrenees and the high street in the old town is so steep it reminded me of the old Hovis advert. The quaint little village has an abundance of accommodation, restaurants, cafes, hiking gear and souvenir shops and it seems to be here purely to service the hords of pilgrims starting their journey.

    The plan for tomorrow is to get out at the crack of dawn, which is about 07:30 in these parts, so not as bad as it sounds. The forecast is for rain, the 3rd day it's rained out of the 4 days we have been here. Living in the UK has been great training!    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Day 4

    The Camino Begins

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We were out of our lovely, cosy attic room at 07:30 this morning and were met with rain and cold on the doorstep. Little did we know it was going to continue for the next five and a half hours. I think buying a large bottle of sun screen on Tuesday might have had something to do with this.

    Today's section was just over 15 miles, 12 miles up the Pyrenees to the Lepoeder pass and 3 miles down some treacherous slopes to Roncesvalles, our stop for the night.

    The first half was on a very quiet road which despite being incredibly steep in parts at least had plenty of traction. The 2nd half was less steep but the grassy sections were like quagmires, good job we both had gore-tex shoes.

    Tonight we are staying in the Colegiata Convent, parts of which date back to the 12th century. There is an overflow dormitory for the summer months, 135 beds in one room!! Fortunately we are in a refurbished block, only 36 beds to a room, result! Just as well we got here early though, they lock the door and lights out at 10pm.

    St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
    Distance: 15.33 miles
    Time: 6hrs 44 mins
    Speed: 2.3mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    2
    2
    Day 5

    A Slightly Easier Day

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    A guy in our dormitory last night snored like a rutting walrus, I've never heard such a guttoral sound. So the first contemplation that the Camino has delivered is that the people who snore the loudest are the best sleepers in the world, because every single time you wake up they are still bloody snoring.

    The novelty of staying in a 12 century convent had soon evaporated, with both of us getting next to no sleep. It was so cold I slept with 4 layers, trousers and socks on inside my sleeping bag liner and was still not warm. Lights on at 6am and the playing of Gregorian chanting for the next hour came as a blessed relief.

    Today we dropped 450m but still managed several stiff climbs and again some dangerous decents, particularly the section into Zubiri. We chatted with some interesting people along the way which help the miles pass so much more quickly.

    The destination today was Zubiri, 13.5 miles from the start but we had to go on to Larisoana, another 3.5 miles, as the whole village was booked up weeks ago. At least that is 3 miles less tomorrow.

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoana
    Distance: 17.20 miles
    Time: 7hrs 3 mins
    Speed: 2.4mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Day 6

    The Shortest Day

    September 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    A clear sky this morning meant a temperature of 5 degrees at 07:30. It was an hour before the sun came over the mountains and then another half an hour before I felt the first rays on my face. It's amazing how such a simple thing made us smile so much. Later in Pamplona it was off to Decathlon for a beanie and gloves for tomorrow. I thought this was summer!

    Just under 10 miles to Pamplona, the easiest walk so far terrain wise and we arrived at 11:15. It gave us the whole afternoon and early evening to explore the old town. There was a fiesta on which was colourful and lively though we had no idea what was going on. The bars from early afternoon were really busy, but unlike many parts of Spain it was busy with locals rather than tourists, which was quite nice to see.

    Walking around town we bumped into the Korean guy we met on the train, who's father had organised the trip for him and only told him 3 weeks before he was due to leave. He said he came close to giving up and going home on the first day. But he stuck it out and looked in quite good shape considering his lack of training.

    We stayed in a nice hotel today, which did feel a little bit like cheating, but two days of bunk beds and sharing with strangers, as nice as they've been, was probably our limit.

    At 17:30 we met up with Dave and Christine and American couple we met at last nights hostel. Plan was to have an early dinner however this being Spain, the earliest restaurants opened for dinner was 20:00, so had to settle for tapas and a beer.

    Planned to watch MOTD tonight on my phone, using my VPN, but it doesn't start until 23:30 Spanish time. Way too late for an early rising pilgrim!

    Larrasoana to Pamplona
    Distance: 9.70 miles
    Time: 3hrs 48min
    Speed: 2.4mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    2221
    Day 7

    Best Walk Yet

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Given it was going to take over 2 miles to get out of Pamplona we set off in the dark at 06:50 and took advantage of the street lights. Flat, paved paths meant we were able get a march on, for the first time on the whole trip really.

    From Cizur Menor, 3.5 miles out of Pamplona, we caught our first glimpse of a ridge, lined with wind turbines which was around 6 miles in the distance. This was our one big climb of the day and I really like seeing something far away you can aim for. This certainly helped keep the pace up.

    On the way up I got chatting to an English guy who had a dodgy knee, but was still as quick as we were. I still haven't worked out if it was discouraging or encouraging when he told me he was 79!

    It was a bright sunny day with fantastic visibility from the top of the ridge and great views back to Pamplona. Following a tricky, steep decent over large loose stones we were soon motoring again. Downhill almost all the way into Puente de la Reina, our home for the night. We got in at 12:20, but couldn't check in till 13:00 so had to rehydrate in the bar. Felt like a half day.

    In the afternoon we looked round the small town, found a lovely pub/bar/restaurant, did some more rehydration and received updates from home on the Spurs v Arsenal game. Will have to stay up late tonight to catch MOTD2, based on the result!!

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina
    Distance: 14.84
    Time: 5hrs 26min
    Speed: 2.7mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Day 8

    Wear and Tear

    September 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we seemed to set off at the same time as about a dozen other people, who were walking at our place so we seemed to be in and around them for the first couple of hours or so, whether we liked it or not.

    The temperature was only about 19 degrees but walking in the full sun with little shade, for periods of time today felt tough. I can't imagine what it would be like in July / August when the temperatures get into the 30s.

    With around 7 miles to go, out of the blue, my right calf felt like it was really tightening and it was really uncomfortable walking on it. It did ease over time and hopefully it will be manageable until the first rest day on Thursday.

    However, we still managed to finish just after 12:30, but took it easy this aft. Had an early dinner and back to the room to rest up for tomorrow's walk, which will be the longest of the trip so far. Carol developed a large blister on the back of her heel today, so I was on lancing, disinfecting and patching up duties this evening, hopefully it will be a bit more comfortable for her tomorrow.

    Puente la Reina to Estella
    Distance: 14:21
    Time: 5hrs 7mins
    Speed: 2.8mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    2222
    Day 9

    Longest Day So Far

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Just like the 2nd day, there was no room at the inn at today's suggested finish point of Los Arcos. The nearest accommodation we could find when planning the trip was in Torres del Rio, a further 5 miles along the route. No consolation for today but at least tomorrow will be significantly shorter.

    After a mile and a half we reached Irache and the wine fountain. Where from the 10th century, monks have been offering pilgrims wine to ease their journey. However, in the mid eighties the community of monks left due to their own dwindling numbers and a local winery took up the tradition. It's now self service, two taps, one for wine and one for water, not sure the latter gets used much. The wine itself won't win any awards but I have tasted worse. So we took a little with us for later as it wasn't even 8am when we got there.

    Afterwards as we climbed up through a wooden hillside I did comment that the route seemed a lot quieter today only to be told later by someone else, that we weren't on the main route but had taken the alternative scenic route involving more climbing. However, it was worth it for the views and the relative solitude.

    After taking a half hour break in Los Arcos, the fairly flat extra 5 miles seemed to fly by and we were finished by 14:15. My calf was ok until 11 miles and is now more sore than yesterday. It's only 12.5 miles tomorrow and then a day off so hopefully that will help with the recovery.

    Estella to Torres del Rio
    Distance: 17.92
    Time: 6hrs 58mins
    Speed: 2.6mph    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Day 11

    A Day of Rest

    September 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Regardless of today's rest day, we still woke up around 6am, felt strange rolling over to go back to sleep, but I soon got used to it.

    Even in a big town it's easy to spot off duty pilgrims in the evening. The flip flops or sandals to air their feet, the lightweight hiking trousers, non creasing lightweight t-shirts or long sleeve quarter zip tops and the slow walking or even the tell tale hobble. We also fall into all of those categories.

    Rain is forecast for the next few days so we spent some time hunting out lightweight ponchos, more to keep the rucksacks dry than us.

    We had lunch and spent a few hours with Dave and Christine, as Logroño was as far as they were going on the Camino. They want to come back to finish it off and were a little envious of the fact we were carrying on and we felt a little envious of the fact they were going home!

    Within 50 yards of leaving them we bumped into the two Australian girls we had dinner with on our first night in Roncesvalles. Then another 50 yards after that bumped into an American guy, Josh, we walked with for a few hours on the 2nd day. Which was a surprise as he had picked up a bike in Estella and was cycling to Leon before walking the rest of the journey.

    Despite the day off we felt as tired as if we'd have walked, so an early night tonight ready for an early start again tomorrow.    Read more

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