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El Camino de Santiago
  • Bron Plaskowski
Sep – Oct 2024

El Camino de Santiago

A 40-day adventure by Bron Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 9, 2024
    Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    There are some really lovely beaches around the town
    2Stansted, it's not even 4am yetWe weren't the only ones walking from the airport, wonder if we'll see him on the Camino?Breakfast in the Barritz market2Not the nicest weather but a lovely little beachA little disconcerting, with people walking by but if you have to go, you have to go!The old harbour where we had dinnerI like her spiritNot a great advert for your boat hire business

    A Very, Very Early Start

    September 9, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The first thing that entered my head as the alarm went off at 02:20 was that perhaps in hindsight going on a boys trip to Puerto Banus for the last 3 days wasn't one of my best ideas.

    However, the plan was to spend a couple of nights in Barritz to recover, before setting out on what is planned to be a 37 day journey on foot from St Jean Pied de Port, in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. That's the plan anyway.

    To say Biarritz is compact is an under statement, from touching down at the airport to arriving at our city centre hotel took 62 mins, including walking the 1.75 miles between the two.

    Despite the recovery plan for today I still managed 23,000 steps exploring this Basque town, which is big on surfing and food.

    The old harbourside restaurant we had dinner in was recommended to us by some random bloke walking his dog, who stopped and gave us a potted history of Barritz, as we stood at a clifftop viewing spot. An example of Basque hospitality or a harbourside restaurant owner, still not a 100% sure!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    England on the tablet, Holland v Germany on the TV, many drinks, perfect prep for a very long walk
    The colourful shutters were really striking.The bus to Bayonne.The old castle.Taking it easy and saving myself for the days to come.Vegetarians look away, though there is some greenery.Bayonne cathedral in the background.Inside the cathedral.Colourful candles, normally they are plain white.A photo shoot to promote the guy on the right's tattoo shop.

    Trip To A Medieval Town

    September 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we took a 40 min bus ride to Bayonne, 8km, but a world away from Barritz. Via a pit stop in Decathlon along the way for an extra pair of hiking socks and a head torch, just in case!

    Biarritz in it's current form is around 250 years old, Bayonne is around 900 years old, so hugely different architecture. A very late breakfast, including beer, sangria, and a board full of meat was followed by several hours wandering the medieval streets and visiting castles, cathedrals and the odd souvenir shop.

    After a recovery nap in the late afternoon, it was out for a happy hour drink and then onto the The Newquay pub for the England game. Where we came across two heavily tattooed blokes with their tops off for some sort of photo shoot, totally random.

    However, regarding the football, there was one issue, Holland were playing Germany tonight and that was the only game they could show. A guy, Max, on the table next to us went back to his hotel to get his tablet for us all to watch the England game. We were joined by a couple from Bournemouth, Caroline and Russ who were proper party people and all of a sudden a couple of quiet drinks watching the football turned into beers, shots and what have we got ourselves into.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    They do like a mural in the streets around the train station.
    2The Basque identity is a huge thing in this region, I always thought it was more northern Spain.I love an overly ornate train station.The Korean guy in the yellow jacket had 3 weeks notice of coming here, I can feel his pain already.2Sporting the new haircut, looking fresh faced and ready to go, let's see in 37 days!The queue for the pilgrim office.Was fairly quick once you got in there though.Church bell tower forming one of the gates into the old town.Pilgrims go to bed early, the streets were almost deserted at 20:30.

    Last Day of Slacking

    September 11, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Because of, or inspite of last night, I slept really well, it must have been the jagerbombs that did the trick.

    A 30 min bus trip back to Bayonne, a stroll around the streets near the station, a haircut so I can save on the amount of Head and Shoulders I use (I've only got a small bottle, travelling light) and before we knew it we were on the 12:35 train to St Jean Pied de Port, from where tomorrow we start the Camino.

    The two large carriages were full on departure and about 80% of the people on there had the same idea as we did. On arrival the first task was to register at the pilgrim office and get our official pilgrim pass, the queue took an hour to get through. Many hostels on the route won't let you in without one and it has to be stamped at your stops along the way.

    The village itself is in the foothills of the Pyrenees and the high street in the old town is so steep it reminded me of the old Hovis advert. The quaint little village has an abundance of accommodation, restaurants, cafes, hiking gear and souvenir shops and it seems to be here purely to service the hords of pilgrims starting their journey.

    The plan for tomorrow is to get out at the crack of dawn, which is about 07:30 in these parts, so not as bad as it sounds. The forecast is for rain, the 3rd day it's rained out of the 4 days we have been here. Living in the UK has been great training!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Just about light at 07:30
    This was the route that Napoleon used during the Peninsular War, though he probably had a horse.I thought we got out early but I one guy I met was out in the dark at 06:30It's not just pilgrims up hereThe point where we left the road, the grass was under water along here.Not only do you have to avoid the cows but also their deposits.It was cold, wet and very windy at the top of the Leopolder pass, not many stopped, even for a photo.The photo doesn't do any justice to how steep and treacherous the decent from the Leopolder pass was.Our accommodation for tonight, despite it's austere facade the volunteer staff were very welcoming.The place is purely to facilitate those in the Camino, no entry without your pilgrims pass.Bunks in blocks of four, we were sharing with a mother and daughter from Heidelberg.The chapel within the convent shortly after the pilgrims mass.

    The Camino Begins

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We were out of our lovely, cosy attic room at 07:30 this morning and were met with rain and cold on the doorstep. Little did we know it was going to continue for the next five and a half hours. I think buying a large bottle of sun screen on Tuesday might have had something to do with this.

    Today's section was just over 15 miles, 12 miles up the Pyrenees to the Lepoeder pass and 3 miles down some treacherous slopes to Roncesvalles, our stop for the night.

    The first half was on a very quiet road which despite being incredibly steep in parts at least had plenty of traction. The 2nd half was less steep but the grassy sections were like quagmires, good job we both had gore-tex shoes.

    Tonight we are staying in the Colegiata Convent, parts of which date back to the 12th century. There is an overflow dormitory for the summer months, 135 beds in one room!! Fortunately we are in a refurbished block, only 36 beds to a room, result! Just as well we got here early though, they lock the door and lights out at 10pm.

    St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
    Distance: 15.33 miles
    Time: 6hrs 44 mins
    Speed: 2.3mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    2The first view of the village you are finishing in is so exciting.
    People already on the road, in the rain, at 06:50That would keep my woodburner going for a decade.The signage is usually very good, here a street sign and road markings.The foal was actually sleeping.Sometimes it's easier to walk the Camino than to cycle it.The water was actually moving at real pace.Some of what we missed in the clouds and mist yesterday.2The geology made for some treacherous decents, for the 2nd day running.The bar owner has done the Camino 9 times and had plenty of advice!

    A Slightly Easier Day

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    A guy in our dormitory last night snored like a rutting walrus, I've never heard such a guttoral sound. So the first contemplation that the Camino has delivered is that the people who snore the loudest are the best sleepers in the world, because every single time you wake up they are still bloody snoring.

    The novelty of staying in a 12 century convent had soon evaporated, with both of us getting next to no sleep. It was so cold I slept with 4 layers, trousers and socks on inside my sleeping bag liner and was still not warm. Lights on at 6am and the playing of Gregorian chanting for the next hour came as a blessed relief.

    Today we dropped 450m but still managed several stiff climbs and again some dangerous decents, particularly the section into Zubiri. We chatted with some interesting people along the way which help the miles pass so much more quickly.

    The destination today was Zubiri, 13.5 miles from the start but we had to go on to Larisoana, another 3.5 miles, as the whole village was booked up weeks ago. At least that is 3 miles less tomorrow.

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoana
    Distance: 17.20 miles
    Time: 7hrs 3 mins
    Speed: 2.4mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    There was a fiesta on today, the San Fermin festival, though no idea what it was about.
    Sixteen people have died running with the bulls since 1910, I'm surprised it's that few.Now this was an old town.The small town of Arre, looks like they do bull running here too.The urban signage is very good.They spent some money on this cycle signage, there were hundreds of these, literally every 20m.Pamplona cathedral.We earned our breakfast after this morning's walk.Calle Estafeta, one of the streets where they run with the bulls.They must get a bit dizzy in there.

    The Shortest Day

    September 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    A clear sky this morning meant a temperature of 5 degrees at 07:30. It was an hour before the sun came over the mountains and then another half an hour before I felt the first rays on my face. It's amazing how such a simple thing made us smile so much. Later in Pamplona it was off to Decathlon for a beanie and gloves for tomorrow. I thought this was summer!

    Just under 10 miles to Pamplona, the easiest walk so far terrain wise and we arrived at 11:15. It gave us the whole afternoon and early evening to explore the old town. There was a fiesta on which was colourful and lively though we had no idea what was going on. The bars from early afternoon were really busy, but unlike many parts of Spain it was busy with locals rather than tourists, which was quite nice to see.

    Walking around town we bumped into the Korean guy we met on the train, who's father had organised the trip for him and only told him 3 weeks before he was due to leave. He said he came close to giving up and going home on the first day. But he stuck it out and looked in quite good shape considering his lack of training.

    We stayed in a nice hotel today, which did feel a little bit like cheating, but two days of bunk beds and sharing with strangers, as nice as they've been, was probably our limit.

    At 17:30 we met up with Dave and Christine and American couple we met at last nights hostel. Plan was to have an early dinner however this being Spain, the earliest restaurants opened for dinner was 20:00, so had to settle for tapas and a beer.

    Planned to watch MOTD tonight on my phone, using my VPN, but it doesn't start until 23:30 Spanish time. Way too late for an early rising pilgrim!

    Larrasoana to Pamplona
    Distance: 9.70 miles
    Time: 3hrs 48min
    Speed: 2.4mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The top of the ridge with a monument to the Camino pilgrims and Pamplona in the background.
    The morning after the night before, we were out before the street cleaners.2The signage has been something else.The photo barely shows the wind turbines on the ridge but they were very visible to us.A small village on route, but with a motorway services style amenity board.2Loved the mural on someone's house in Muruzabal.2We could do with this for the remaining 29 stages.Tiny church but huge bell tower.1Main church in Puente de la Reina, surprised by the detail in the gilded woodwork behind the alterStone bridge out of Puente del a Reina.

    Best Walk Yet

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Given it was going to take over 2 miles to get out of Pamplona we set off in the dark at 06:50 and took advantage of the street lights. Flat, paved paths meant we were able get a march on, for the first time on the whole trip really.

    From Cizur Menor, 3.5 miles out of Pamplona, we caught our first glimpse of a ridge, lined with wind turbines which was around 6 miles in the distance. This was our one big climb of the day and I really like seeing something far away you can aim for. This certainly helped keep the pace up.

    On the way up I got chatting to an English guy who had a dodgy knee, but was still as quick as we were. I still haven't worked out if it was discouraging or encouraging when he told me he was 79!

    It was a bright sunny day with fantastic visibility from the top of the ridge and great views back to Pamplona. Following a tricky, steep decent over large loose stones we were soon motoring again. Downhill almost all the way into Puente de la Reina, our home for the night. We got in at 12:20, but couldn't check in till 13:00 so had to rehydrate in the bar. Felt like a half day.

    In the afternoon we looked round the small town, found a lovely pub/bar/restaurant, did some more rehydration and received updates from home on the Spurs v Arsenal game. Will have to stay up late tonight to catch MOTD2, based on the result!!

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina
    Distance: 14.84
    Time: 5hrs 26min
    Speed: 2.7mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The village of Cirauqui beyond the vineyard.Cirauqui was rather hilly.Somehow you always have to go down to go up.An aquaduct.Food left out for passing pilgrims, for a donation,For some reason today the bridges were ridiculously steep, but for no practical reason.This is where my shoes are going once I finish.Plaza de los Fueros in Estella, today's stop.Our room, the middle window on the middle floor overlooking the church steps.

    Wear and Tear

    September 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we seemed to set off at the same time as about a dozen other people, who were walking at our place so we seemed to be in and around them for the first couple of hours or so, whether we liked it or not.

    The temperature was only about 19 degrees but walking in the full sun with little shade, for periods of time today felt tough. I can't imagine what it would be like in July / August when the temperatures get into the 30s.

    With around 7 miles to go, out of the blue, my right calf felt like it was really tightening and it was really uncomfortable walking on it. It did ease over time and hopefully it will be manageable until the first rest day on Thursday.

    However, we still managed to finish just after 12:30, but took it easy this aft. Had an early dinner and back to the room to rest up for tomorrow's walk, which will be the longest of the trip so far. Carol developed a large blister on the back of her heel today, so I was on lancing, disinfecting and patching up duties this evening, hopefully it will be a bit more comfortable for her tomorrow.

    Puente la Reina to Estella
    Distance: 14:21
    Time: 5hrs 7mins
    Speed: 2.8mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The wine fountain, fortunately hadn't run dry by the time we got there.
    2It did actually feel quite secure at the top of the viewing platform.2The view from the platform. Interesting how the cloud seemed to just sit above the high ground2Fortunately we didn't have to go to the top of that one.Winding, undulating and very scenicThere were worse places to stop for our break in Los ArcosTorres del Rio, such a welcome sight after a long day's walkThe octagonal church, well more of a chapel, it was tiny inside.2Throughout the accommodation there seemed to be a kind of Knights Templar theme.

    Longest Day So Far

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Just like the 2nd day, there was no room at the inn at today's suggested finish point of Los Arcos. The nearest accommodation we could find when planning the trip was in Torres del Rio, a further 5 miles along the route. No consolation for today but at least tomorrow will be significantly shorter.

    After a mile and a half we reached Irache and the wine fountain. Where from the 10th century, monks have been offering pilgrims wine to ease their journey. However, in the mid eighties the community of monks left due to their own dwindling numbers and a local winery took up the tradition. It's now self service, two taps, one for wine and one for water, not sure the latter gets used much. The wine itself won't win any awards but I have tasted worse. So we took a little with us for later as it wasn't even 8am when we got there.

    Afterwards as we climbed up through a wooden hillside I did comment that the route seemed a lot quieter today only to be told later by someone else, that we weren't on the main route but had taken the alternative scenic route involving more climbing. However, it was worth it for the views and the relative solitude.

    After taking a half hour break in Los Arcos, the fairly flat extra 5 miles seemed to fly by and we were finished by 14:15. My calf was ok until 11 miles and is now more sore than yesterday. It's only 12.5 miles tomorrow and then a day off so hopefully that will help with the recovery.

    Estella to Torres del Rio
    Distance: 17.92
    Time: 6hrs 58mins
    Speed: 2.6mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Our entry point to the old town in Logroño
    They've gone to town in Logroño on directional signs for the CaminoThe Cathedral of Santa Maria de la RedondaA spooky habit worn by Cistercian monks in days gone by.Calle Laurel, where locals and tourists go for the bars and tapasThey never actually look that much when you order them, but they are surprisingly filling.I just loved the irony, a remote control screwed to the wall.

    A Day of Rest

    September 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Regardless of today's rest day, we still woke up around 6am, felt strange rolling over to go back to sleep, but I soon got used to it.

    Even in a big town it's easy to spot off duty pilgrims in the evening. The flip flops or sandals to air their feet, the lightweight hiking trousers, non creasing lightweight t-shirts or long sleeve quarter zip tops and the slow walking or even the tell tale hobble. We also fall into all of those categories.

    Rain is forecast for the next few days so we spent some time hunting out lightweight ponchos, more to keep the rucksacks dry than us.

    We had lunch and spent a few hours with Dave and Christine, as Logroño was as far as they were going on the Camino. They want to come back to finish it off and were a little envious of the fact we were carrying on and we felt a little envious of the fact they were going home!

    Within 50 yards of leaving them we bumped into the two Australian girls we had dinner with on our first night in Roncesvalles. Then another 50 yards after that bumped into an American guy, Josh, we walked with for a few hours on the 2nd day. Which was a surprise as he had picked up a bike in Estella and was cycling to Leon before walking the rest of the journey.

    Despite the day off we felt as tired as if we'd have walked, so an early night tonight ready for an early start again tomorrow.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    So many vines and so many ripe, sweet grapes.
    Just as the street lights ended, it was light enough to see where you were going.Different towns seem to like to have their own style of directional markers.A pilgrim service station.So much greener than southern Spain.Harvesting the grapes, like we have been doing most mornings😊.Josh is a big lad and if you fall off your bike you go down hard.A shelter from the summer heat of the day or maybe today's rain.Very trusting on two counts, one you pay for what you take and two no-one steals the donations boxYou certainly wouldn't miss this pilgrim hostel.There was a complementary bottle of wine, though the decanter said to me it needed to breathe, a lot.I'm not sure I would want to live in a little house at the bottom of a huge cliff.

    Back on the Road

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Started in the dark this morning, with it getting just light enough as the street lights ended around two miles from the hotel. Today's surfaces were great and although we did just over 430m of climbing most of it was a manageable gradient. It did rain for an hour but that didn't seem to slow us down. We got into Najera just before 1pm, we were amazed how the time seemed to fly by today.

    About 4hrs in, Josh, who we'd met again yesterday afternoon, caught us on his bike and stopped for a chat. He had his left hand and knee bandaged, as less than an hour ago, he tried taking a photo whilst cycling and ended up hitting the deck quite hard. It seems as though there is no special protection for pilgrims! This was the last we will see of him as he will be in Leon in 5 days time, we will be there in 13 days time.

    This seems to be the first place we have stayed in that doesn't have a medieval background. Seems much more modern yet at the same time a bit run down.

    Logroño to Najera
    Distance: 17.61
    Time: 5hrs 54mins
    Speed: 3mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The photo doesn't do it justice, in the moment it was breathtaking.
    The start this morning was grey, damp and muggy.The prettiest house in Azorfa, the first village we went through.As the vineyards disappeared, a golf course sprung up.Outside Pamplona the sunflowers were 3ft tall as it was a windy area, here they're 7ft tall.We are getting there, slowly.The most unusual drinking fountain I have ever seen.It's thirsty work all this walking.The cathedral in Santo DomingoThe parador we are staying in tonightNot quite sure of the meaning of the design but a lovely window nonetheless.

    The Last of the Vineyards

    September 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It rained heavily overnight but by 07:40 it had stopped, leaving a misty, muggy morning. Though I think I prefer that to cold mornings, which are probably coming as we get into October.

    We had probably our last roadside grape breakfast this morning as the vineyards started to give way to larger fields of more traditional crops.

    About 10 miles in, just after the village Cirinuela, we went up a small rise and then suddenly in front of us the whole horizon opened up, a rolling patchwork of different fields, in several shades, at different angles and the Camino stretching out in front of us. It was as surprising as it was breathtaking, again the photos just don't do it justice.

    We got in at 12:15 and luckily our room was ready. So quickly got showered, changed and out to look around the town and something to eat before the heavens opened. The town of Santo Domingo was 1,000 years old in 2019.

    Today we are staying in a parador, which is a former convent or monastery converted into a hotel. We wanted to try one out to see what it was like. There are a number of these along the route and are apparently government owned. Though they are literally 10 times the price of a room in a dormitory, albeit we are only doing 4 dormitories. The first we did to see what it was like, the other three because there was nothing else available.

    Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada
    Distance: 13:58
    Time: 4hrs 24min
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    One constant are the sunflower fields.
    Our hotel looked better in the early morning than in the daylight.The smell from this pig farm carried for a good 10 mins.A church with the shell and directional arrow in stained glass.I bet he's been trying to escape for years.The point at which we left La Rioja, shame about the graffiti.Slimmer versions of me and Carol.A scarecrow for motorists, a sort of scarecar.I'd seen this place in a guide book, thinking you'd never miss that, not knowing we were staying here.Belorado does like a mural.Opposite the first one.Along side the first two.I've felt like that.Interesting how so many towns really take the Camino onboard.The Santa Maria in Belorado.

    Leaving La Rioja

    September 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    By 5 miles this morning we were officially out of the wine region of La Rioja and into the province of Burgos. Not only were there no grapes for breakfast but the blackberry bushes and the odd fig tree also seemed to have disappeared.

    We passed through six villages today when normally it's two or three. The advantage is that it breaks up the walk and there is the interest of passing though different places. The disadvantage is that almost every village is built in high ground and you have a climb up to get to them.

    This morning it was Carol's turn for her calf to tighten up, so we had to slow down from the pace we had been setting the last couple of days. However, we still got to our accommodation for 12:00. A quick shower, a tour of Belorado and then a pilgrims lunch, €14 each, for 3 courses and a bottle of wine between us.

    There was an outdoor area outside our accommodation where people were drinking as we returned from our lunch in town at around 15:30. From a distance it sounded rather rowdy, though as we got there we recognised some of the people making all the noise and before we knew it we were introduced to the rest of the group and were there for the next couple of hours.

    My only escape was that I'd booked a massage at 18:00, which probably save me from myself!

    Santo Domingo to Belorado
    Distance: 13.68 miles
    Time: 4hrs 43min
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    I was surprised how powerful my head torch was.
    I'm sure you don't really need that much stuff.A room with a view.We started down there and this was only halfway up.The forest had seemed such a quiet and tranquil place.Going down only to go back up to the trees on the horizon.An impromptu coffee stop at the top of the mountain.Not sure what this was about.The bells on the church reminds me of Central or South America.Dropping down in to Ages and our stop Atapuerca, a distant spot in the top right-hand corner.Just about every distance marker I've seen has been wrong.These are the first timber framed houses, I've seen on the trip.Apparently the site of the oldest human remains found in Europe.A mini Stonehenge.Might have taken a few more people to get that stone in there.

    A Day on Higher Ground

    September 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Another of those days where we couldn't get accommodation at the guide books suggested finishing point, San Juan. So we had to walk nearly an extra 4 miles to Atapuerca making this our longest walk so far.

    This was our 11th day of walking, so a third of the way to Santiago in days and just over in distance, at around 165 miles.

    First light is now not until 07:40, so got the head torch out for the first time today and set off at 07:00. It felt like the first two miles in the dark we got for free.

    After about 5km we saw an old boy ahead walking with what looked like a granny's shopping trolley attached to his waist, trailing behind him. It looked so awkward, jarring from one side to the other over the rough ground. He was stopping every few hundred metres, how he got up some of today's 20%+ climbs I don't know. I know there is supposed to be an element of suffering, but that is totally self inflicted. You can have your bags taken ahead for you for €7 a day. What he was doing was akin to self-flagellation.

    I knew we were staying in a hostel tonight but didn't realise we were in a room of 4. The other two were a Japanese bloke who didn't speak a word of English and an American woman. In fact there are only 4 nights out of 37 where we are sharing and this is the 3rd one. We had the communal 3 course evening meal, soup, pasta with slices of meat and then a custard dessert, it was all lovely.

    There were a dozen people round a large table, at our end were the American woman who was in our room, an Irish bloke and an English guy. As people drifted away after the meal the 5 of us hoovered up the remaining part bottles of wine, then opened a new one that was on the side and continued chatting till it was all gone. It was now 21:30, lights out is 22:00 in these places and I still had stuff to do like finish today's post!! Which I have now done with 5 mins to spare.

    Belorado to Atapuerca
    Distance: 19.43 miles
    Time: 6hrs 45min
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The top of this morning's 167m climb.
    Flowerpot men and women, seem to be a thing in this area.Seen new train lines, new roads being built, planning must be a bit simpler here.The city gate leading to the cathedral square.The Santa Maria cathedral square.The queue for the free tickets to the cathedral, we came back 40 mins later, no queue at all.Even the wheels looked like they were made of silver.Seriously ornate.That must have took some time to paint.I hope this was an advert not the actual accommodation, but for €5 a room it might be!Courtyard within the cathedral groundsBird houses and directions, very useful trees.

    A Very Impressive Entrance

    September 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The extra miles we did yesterday meant we only had about 13 miles to do today, hardly worth lacing our boots up!

    Since the first day we haven't been lower than around 400m above sea level. Though, since Logroño we have been steadily climbing each day. Yesterday we topped out at 1,150m and the start of today's walk was about 960m. So despite today's warm forecast it was jacket, hat and gloves for the first couple of hours or so.

    After a sharp climb over the first mile the rest of the day was a gentle downhill into Burgos. We walked part of the way with David, the English guy we had dinner with last night and then also an American couple for the last few miles.

    We took a slightly longer but more scenic route into Burgos, following the river Arlanzon through woods and parkland. The entrance into the old town was through a stunning city gate which brought you into a large square with the hugely impressive Santa Maria cathedral in front of you.

    I was impressed by the gate and the cathedral in 2024, so how must pilgrims in the middle ages have reacted. I can only imagine that witnessing such a sight for the first time would have strengthened their faith and their resolve to reach Santiago.

    We have a lovely little apartment for the next two nights, with washing machine! So after lunch, apart from a visit to the cathedral, free entry 16:30 - 18:30, only on Tuesdays, result. It was a quick wander around the local area, followed by 3 loads of washing. Not that we have that many clothes but we were governed by the number of radiators that we had to dry them on.

    Atapuerca to Burgos
    Distance: 13.07 miles
    Time: 4hrs 29mins
    Speed: 2.9 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    I liked the two images in one.
    Apparently, from the castle you can see for miles.This is the 2nd Camino dog I've seen, the first dog about the same size, was wearing saddle bags.This is how I'm starting to feel, in fact I quite fancy taking up knitting, instead.In retrospect I should have done the Camino from Plymouth, by boat!Most pilgrims do have more clothes on than this chapAt first I thought the walls of this pool were made from skulls.The yellow building on the right is definitely bowed.Not sure of the significance of the lion on the kings back, but it looks good.Another of the city gates, not quite as ornate though as yesterday's one we first came through.They do like a bull in Spain.Fortification for tomorrow.

    A Day Off in Burgos

    September 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We woke up about 9am this morning and as I laid there I felt like I could continue to do so for the rest of the day. It's really interesting how if you keep going you can keep going, but the moment you stop you wonder how on earth you managed it. Need to make the most of today's opportunity to recharge the batteries as the next one will be in Leon, in eight days time.

    The weather this morning was murky and drizzley. So we left it until 11am when it brightened a little before heading out to explore a little more of Burgos. We walked up to Burgos castle, which Wellington failed to take from the French, despite a 35 day siege, during the Peninsular War in 1812. However, it was shut for a refurb. There was a lovely panoramic view from there over the city. Though we never saw it because of the misty drizzle.

    With the weather taking a turn for the worse, we bought some food, cider and spent afternoon resting up in the apartment and watching some mindless stuff on amazon prime.

    By early evening it had dried and warmed up, so we found a lovely lounge bar, with comfy seats, easy music, good food and drinks. Then it was an early night for our first of eight early starts.

    P. S. The comfy seats are now a must, as with the weight I've lost so far I'm finding sitting on hard wooden or metal seats rather uncomfortable!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The backdrop was almost like the northern lights for my best Rocky pose.
    Leaving Burgos there were numerous figures in this style.Carol liked like Harry Potter in the 20mph+ windsIt was a good day for flying a flag.A tiny village but they had gone to the effort and expense of a number of canvas wall coverings.Down the hill, through the town and straight back up the other hill, pretty easy way finding.The wind literally ripped through her rain cape.This was the sum total of San Bol.A cosy 10 bunk room and one loo for the whole place, fortunately there were only 4 of us.You wouldn't believe it was the same day.Written on the side of the hostel.The total population of San Bol for tonight.Didn't quite see the sunset but the sky was amazing.Reminded me of Tottenham Hotspur.Our cosy home for the night.Pretty breezy on the Maseta plateau, at about 950m.

    Population Zero

    September 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Laying in bed this morning I could hear the wind blowing hard. The forecast was for 20mph+ winds and rain from 8am, unfortunately the forecast was correct. It rained more on than off and the wind was pretty constant. The first time we saw the sun all day was the moment we arrived at the hostel.

    We had left at 7am as we had an extra 3.5 miles today, as again there was no room at the suggested stop, Hornillos, a one horse town with a population of 70 people. So we spent the evening in San Bol, in the middle of the Maseta, population 0. The place consisted of one building, the municipal hostel, run by a lady who comes in at 2pm, books people in, cooks the communal meal, goes home and in the morning comes back and cleans, goes home then comes back in the afternoon and does it all again. The instruction before she left in the evening was for the last person leaving in the morning to lock up and put the key in the post box. A rather trusting set up.

    Only two other people decided to spend the night here, a 25 year old American lad and a 30ish year old Dutch girl. They knew each other having met at a previous hostel, she definitely had a thing for him though he seemed to play it pretty cool. So in lieu of much else to do, with no signal or WiFi, we spent the afternoon until dinner at 7pm drinking a few beers and getting to know each other, just like you used to do before the days of mobile phones.

    After dinner we climbed up the hillside to catch the sunset but the point at which you could see it just seemed to get further and further away. So we just took some photos from there against the backdrop of the setting sun, the light was amazing.

    Burgos to San Bol
    Distance: 16.5 miles
    Time: 5hrs 48min
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    The ceiling of this disused church is used as a backdrop for a film on the origins of the Camino.
    First time we dropped into a village and didn't have to take the steep path leading up to the ridge.There are a surprising number of Koreans doing the Camino.It was 11 degrees but felt colder.Every Spaniard's house actually is his castle.The ruins of the 14th century convent of San AntonThere was also a hostel within the ruins, in summer they allow people to sleep under the stars.A sliver of a view of some fantastic countryside.The cross is depicted like this in this area and the Castrojeriz castle ruins above.There's always another hill to climbEven San Miguel are cashing in on the Camino.For when one altar isn't enough.

    A Very Short Day

    September 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    With no mobile reception or WiFi, we had to resort to the old fashioned method of weather forecasting, sticking your head out the window. The wind has dropped significantly and there was broken cloud, so better than hoped for as originally it was supposed to be two days of high winds and rain.

    The two youngsters we shared the albergue with last night both have a very different approach to our scheduled days and our pre-booked accommodation. They tend to decide on the day how far they want to walk, where they want to stay, if they don't like the look of a village they just move on. They spend each night in dorms trying to keep the costs to a minimum. Sounds quite free and liberating, however, the certainty of a bed in a private room each night sounds more appealing to me.

    There were 4 places where we couldn't do that. Yesterday was our last night in a dorm and our best experience as there were only 4 of us in there. We were told that the previous night there were 11 people in that room and the hostel only has one toilet. I'm still shuddering at the thought of that.

    Today was our shortest walk for the whole trip, so even with a late start of 08:25 we were still done before 11:15. So we had a wander around town, visited a disused church where they showed a video projected onto the ceiling and had other videos and info about the Camino in medieval times. Entry for pilgrims was one euro and that was for both of us!

    So after a long, late lunch we had a couple of drinks back at our accommodation, a small beer and a red wine was 3 euros. I couldn't believe the price so had to have another round to make sure. We then just relaxed in our room, no chasing sunsets tonight.

    San Bol to Castrojeriz
    Distance: 8.21 miles
    Time: 2hrs 49mins
    Speed; 2.9 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Pretty flat after a pretty steep decent.
    Yesterday's accommodation had an interesting way of storing walking poles that people had forgotten.Of course we had to climb up the hill, but it was the only real one of the day.The view from the top of the hill, we stayed the other side of that hill in the middle last night.That boot is done walking.The border between Burgos provence and Palencia province.The last bit of uphill today.One way of cooling off your blisters.A cruise on the canal looked quite enticing as the extra mile just went on and on.Maybe it was a loch once, but doesn't look like one anymore.You even get shells on your bed.The view from our bed, one of the town's 3 churches.

    A Solo Walk

    September 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    There was a huge drop in the wind today but also in the temperature, it was 3 degrees at 8am. I know it isn't southern Spain but certainly wasn't expecting these temperatures in September. Though by 9am it had shot up to 4 degrees. Although it was 5 degrees colder today it felt 10 degrees warmer with no wind and walking in the sun.

    This morning Carol wasn't feel well at all, so rather than setting off and then feeling even worse in the middle of nowhere we decided it would be better for her not to walk today. So at 10am which was check out time she took a ride to Formista.

    I left earlier at 08:30 to walk this leg on my own. Though in many ways I wasn't on my own, as I was soon passing lots of people we have met along the way. The one thing that was annoying was the distance for today in the guide book was almost a mile shorter than the actual distance. Not a lot really but when you've got your mind set on a certain distance that extra mile goes on for ages.

    Carol was feeling a lot better when I met up with her just before 1pm. However, as a precaution. we spent the rest of the day in the room relaxing.

    Castrojeriz to Fromista
    Distance: 16.44 miles
    Time: 4hrs 24mins
    Speed: 3.7mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    All this walking is making us taller.
    Directional arrows come in all forms.Some form of irrigation system.Rather random.Must mean something to someone.Sarria is 100km from Santiago, and the minimum distance to qualify for having done a pilgrimage.Rehydration after today's walk, this was the first day you could sit out in t-shirt and shorts.The entrance to our accommodation today.One of the 5 churches for a population of around 2,200.A 2nd one.We are definitely getting closer, was 778km at the start.I know the feeling.This town's bespoke signage.

    Back on the Road Again

    September 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After an afternoon and evening of resting, hydrating and carbing up Carol felt a lot better this morning . With it being a shorter and flatter walk today she was keen to give it a go.

    Before we knew it we were back up to normal pace which was great and after a couple of miles were joined by a young German bloke, Nico, for the next 8 miles. The conversation was a great distraction for her and the miles just took care of themselves.

    It was a very unusual stage today, about 95% of the route was on a path alongside the road to Carrion. Which wasn't too bad as it was Sunday morning and I think the Spanish do like a lay in. There was an alternative greener route, but it was longer, so didn't fancy that today.

    After checking in just after 1pm we had a wander round a lively town centre, had lunch, did some laundry and then spent the rest of the day in the room for some more rest and recuperation.

    Fromista to Carrion de la Condes
    Distance: 11.66 miles
    Time: 3hrs 47mins
    Speed: 3.1 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Very random, coming across this American cyclist singing under a tree.
    Last view of Carrion.We were out of town for 8am.The terrain was flat and almost featureless.Need to be eagle eyed to spot this sign.Someone must have been having a hard day.The albergue we were staying at.The tapas just about kept us going until the pizza arrived.One of a number of abandoned houses.Mud bricks before being plastered over with more mud and straw.Rustic construction.A functional door.The streets were very quiet.Reminded me of Coronation Street.2What bird needs a nest this big?Would quite like to watch the game being played.

    A Really Rural Village

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    In days, we are now over halfway. Today we completed our 17th walking day and there are 16 walking days left. In terms of distance we have completed 247 miles, with 237 miles to go.

    Today's route was flat, featureless farm land, with little shade and a 60m rise over the last mile. The first town we came across was 10.5miles in, so an enterprising person had set up a food truck about 5 miles in. The lack of shade is fine at the end of September, but I certainly wouldn't fancy it July or August with temperatures getting over 30 degrees.

    Today we stayed in a small farming village, I'm not convinced it would still be here if the Camino didn't go through it. A number of the properties were built using mud bricks, made of mud, straw and stones. The place looked deserted, there were no shops, or bars or restaurants, only a couple of hostels. So I was very pleasantly surprised to find that the place we were staying in was really nice and we had quite a modern room.

    Having a beer outside the hostel, in the afternoon sun, we met Matt, an American bloke we had met on the road on our 2nd day and 4 other people we had dinner with in Atapuerca. It's a small world if you follow the guide book.

    Carrion to Ledigos
    Distance: 14.63
    Time: 5hrs 8mins
    Speed: 2.8 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    It was proper dark when we set off today.
    Missed the best of the sunrise as we soon dropped into a dip.Now that's what you call a garage.They seem to struggle to build a flat wall round here.The deserted N120 and the new motorway they have built beside it.The church originates from 1174.The monument claiming that this is the geographical midpoint of the Camino.Reminded me of Simon Templar, unfortunately I'm old enough to remember.Caught in the act twice, he is even filming himself doing it.I wonder if this is the work of the same bloke in the previous photo.And this one, all quite close together in Sahagun.Very important to take the route to the left, the other bypasses our albergue for tonight.Almost completely deserted road, lined with shade that went on for 3 miles. Saw more bikes than cars.I don't know what it is but it's winking at me!When I saw this, especially with another 4 miles to go, I wished we were staying here.They've gone to town on their garden fence.Drinks at our non bar bar.Everything on the table, for 6 euros, this is my sort of place.Forecast for tomorrow is 50% chance of rain over the morning, looking menacing already.Home for the night, probably sharing with more truckers than pilgrims!

    The Longest Day

    October 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Almost as if to celebrate reaching halfway, today's walk was to be the longest one of the whole trip. Yesterday we stopped 2 miles short of the suggested town and today we had to go 4.5 miles further than the suggested town, as we couldn't book accommodation in either.

    Leaving at 07:15 now means a good 30 mins of walking in the dark with the head torch. Initially there were two different routes you could follow which came together after 5 miles. A more rural route or one following the N120 which in this area is almost deserted as they have built a dual carriageway parallel with it (I wonder where that money came from!). We took the road route and soon gave up on the path beside it and walked on the hard shoulder as it was much more comfortable and there was next to no traffic.

    Now I'm a little confused, as 8 miles in we came across a little monument saying that this was the geographical mid point of the Camino. However, we had at this point walked 255 miles, meaning we would be walking 510 miles instead of 484 miles. My only hope is that they've drawn a straight line between St Jean and Santiago, or that the route on the first half goes round the houses and the 2nd half is much more direct, fingers crossed.

    We had a break in Bercianos for 30 mins at 16 miles and then finished off the last 4.7 miles in decent time. Got in for 15:15, I was already showered, had a pizza and had a couple of beers by that time yesterday!

    Carol booked all the accommodation online before we left home. Today's was about 600m outside the town, called Hotel Castillo El Burgo. Sounded very nice, though when we got here it turned out to be a motorway services!! At least we can get food and a beer 24hrs a day.

    After a shower, rest and getting 10kg off my back I actually felt quite good so at around 17:00 we walked into the village. No bars or restaurants but we stopped at a shop that had beers in the fridge and a few tables outside in the sun. So we had a couple of beers, a few cuts of meat and cheese, then a few more and each time they gave us some extra bits as well. It was the best non bar bar I've ever been too!

    Ledigos to El Burgo Ranero
    Distance: 20.74 miles
    Time: 7hrs 48mins
    Speed: 2.7 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    Could have been worse, might not have been in matching rain capes! You do look like a hunchback though.
    Maybe could introduce this into high streets in London.The shade of the trees is slightly less important today.A dead baby snake, only about 6 inches long, there were also a few dead frogs along the way today.Couldn't stop humming the tune after seeing this.The only village we passed through today, none the wiser about the tomato even with a google search.The road did go somewhere once.What remains of Mansilla's 12th century gated entrance.Most towns seemed to have commissioned monuments to the Camino.

    A Rather Damp Day

    October 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    So after sitting in the late afternoon sun in t-shirt and shorts, eating and drinking at our new favourite non bar, bar, this morning it was raining. Which was good news for Carol as she's got to try out her new rain cape, as her old one was destroyed by the wind on the first day out of Burgos.

    Despite the rain and the wind getting up later in the morning, the terrain was pretty flat so we still made good progress. In fact it was probably wanting to get out of the rain that pushed us along to getting finished for about 12:15.

    It continued raining all afternoon which meant that apart from a brief, wet walk, we spent the rest of the afternoon in the room and the hostel bar. I don't mind getting soaked while I'm out walking but once I'm showered, dressed and warm, the thought of going back out in the rain doesn't appeal at all.

    So just 14 days of walking left now and it's starting to feel like this is going to be over before we know it.

    El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
    Distance: 12.33 miles
    Time: 4hrs 9mins
    Speed: 3 mph    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    As hard as it tried the sun couldn't quite make its way through the mist.
    Corn on the cob for breakfast doesn't sound as appetising as a bunch of grapes off the vine.Looks like they've stuck a new road deck on an old bridge.What else do you keep on your front seat but half an engine.An ex church stripped of it's bells, turned into a cultural centre.Our apartment today is slightly more comfortable than yesterday's room.The medieval marketProperties built into the city walls.I think you'd admit to anything having sat on that chair for long enough.I understand the nuts but the haribos!The perfect setting for a medieval market.The first time I've heard of a doner kabab referred to as artisanal.Bagpipes get everywhere.I was very tempted to have a go

    Back in The City

    October 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We set off this morning to a cool, misty but more importantly dry morning. Currently the forecast is for 3 dry days and then almost a week of 50-50 chance of rain each day.

    For the last couple of days the path had been along side almost deserted country roads, which I've walked along rather than the stony path. Today is the same, except it was a busy road which turned into a dual carriageway on the outskirts of Leon and the countryside gave way to sporadic light industrial buildings and some retail for a couple of miles. Until we could see Leon in the distance under some very low cloud.

    On arriving in Leon we were able access the apartment just after midday. So a couple of washing machine loads later we headed out to explore Leon. Currently there is the San Froilan festival going on, which last 10 days. There was a medieval market with some remarkablely 21st century products on sale.

    Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
    Distance: 11.19 miles
    Time: 3 hrs 36 mins
    Speed: 3.1 miles    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerEl Camino de Santiago
    One of the most striking murals I've seen.
    Pretty much all our clothes, washed and ready for our next stint.A side street off the cathedral square.The square was the grain market dating back to the 10th century, the church is from the 12th centuryA hostel run by Benedictine nuns.A rather cryptic inscription, 'For those who were, are and will be'Not sure why the balloons are there, maybe to do with the food truck festival.There seems to be more old double decker buses abroad than there are at home.Part of a food truck festival.Part of the original Roman city walls.I seriously think I could have done better myselfThe actual Kings of LeonLeon's city symbol, created by drones.Firework display to round off the day's festival activities.Traditional dancing from the region.The band dressed in their medieval gear played a number of songs and then moved on.

    A Day Exploring Leon

    October 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The stretch between Burgos and Leon always felt like it would be make or break. In Burgos it was 13 days down and still 20 days to go. Now in Leon it's 20 days down and 13 days to go. Psychologically a huge turnaround, Santiago does actually feel so much closer now.

    This morning we went out to explore more of the back streets, squares and buildings around the city. After some tapas and a drink we went back to the apartment to relax and get our stuff together for tomorrow.

    Just after 7pm we went back out to watch some traditional dancing, part of the San Froilan festival, then on for a drink and then on for something to eat. In the street on the way to the restaurant, two women called out and came running over two us. It took a few moments to realise, it was the German mother and daughter who we shared our 4 bunk space with on the very first night in Roncesvalles. Was so lovely to see them and have a quick catch up on what they had been up to. We are a day ahead of them as they had arrived today, but it would be really nice to bump into them again in Santiago.

    After eating we headed over to the river to catch the last 15 mins of a concert and then to watch a 10 min drone show followed by 15 mins of fireworks to round off the night. It was 00:20 by the time we got back to the apartment. Our latest evening on a school night, very late for early rising pilgrims!    Read more

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