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The French Ride
  • Bruce Dimon
  • Bruce Dimon

The French Ride

After a few days in Paris to shake off the jet lag, I'll rent a motorcycle for 15 days and ride through the Alps down to the Riviera and back. Les mer
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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    The Hautes-Alpes
    Mont Blanc is barely visible in this photo. Look just to the right of the middle. It's white.The Savoie: A view you can enjoy again and againRiding up the Savoie sideRiding down the Hautes-Alpes side

    Col du Galibier, Again

    7. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Because the mountain pass closures of the last two days messed up the itineraries, I had to go over the Col du Tèlègraphe and the Col du Galibier again today. But I'm not complaining; they are worth visiting again and again. The interesting thing is that the road was far less scary the second time I traveled it. I guess when you know you can do something, you're more confident about doing it.

    The small parking lot was crowded because there was an amateur bicycle race to the top of the pass. I'm so impressed at the willpower and strength of the French bicyclists. They must like going uphill more than going downhill because I saw several of them loading their bicycles into vans for the ride down. Maybe they think coasting downhill is not enough of a challenge to be interesting.

    From the parking area, I climbed up a hill to the top where you can see a 360° panorama. I was surprised that I could see Mont Blanc, albeit faintly.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Enjoying a Ricard in the warm afternoon sun

    Back at the Lodge

    7. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    I got back to the lodge before 3:00 p.m. a trip to Bardonecchia would be at least three more hours round trip. I may do big miles back in the States, but in Europe these roads slow you down. I rode 125 miles in four and a half hours. Add over two hours of sightseeing and dining to the riding time and it was a six and a half hour trip. Bardonecchia will wait for another trip.

    I have been accused (justifiably) of planning my vacations like a military campaign or a competition. That won't work for a motorcycle trip through the Alps. Don't plan more than 125-150 miles per day.

    Getting to the hotel early has its advantages. Enjoying a Ricard in the warm afternoon sun and writing postcards to my grandson is one. Most Americans do not like the Anise (similar to licorice) flavor of Ricard or Pernod but I always enjoyed it.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Saint-Chaffrey Church

    Mass in Saint-Chaffrey

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Today's Passes:
    Col d'Izoard
    Col de la Platrière
    Col Agnel
    Col de l'Ange Gardien

    I started the day with Mass in a small village near the beginning of the route. I entered ten minutes early while the cantor/choir director practiced that day's hymns with the early congregants.

    Following the order of Mass is not too hard but the sermons can be difficult. The priest had his microphone set low and I was lost. Still, it was beautiful and serene.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Delicious coffee stop
    From the parking lot of the Refuge Napoleon looking down the valley.From the parking lot of the Refuge Napoleon looking up to the Col d'Izoard.

    Coffee at Napoleon's Refuge

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    The rain increased as I church and continued as I climbed to the first pass, Col d'Izoard. Before the top, I stopped for a café crème at the Refuge Napoleon, a 150-year-old stone building claiming an association with Napoleon. They say that Napoleon Bonaparte may have passed by on his comeback tour. I don't know about that, but the Tour de France passes by here frequently. It does not really matter because the coffee was warm and delicious; the emperor would have approved.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Looking down into the valley
    Looking up toward the Col d'Agnel

    Bouchouse Valley near the Col d'Agnel

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    During the last Ice Age, plants and animals characteristic of the arctic zones retreated south before the ice. After the glaciers melted, some species, such as the Rock Ptarmigan, the Mountain Hare and the Arctic Rush, survived by taking refuge in alpine valleys (such as this one). Thanks to the altitude, precipitation and duration of snow cover, they find climatic conditions close to those of the far north.

    When we're focused on bagging another mountain pass, we might forget to look around and see why these mountains are special.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Both sides equally beautiful but who has the better coffee?
    We are one in a thousandI love they set up a second board just for the stickersItaly covered in rain and fogFamous bicycle racer memorial

    Col d'Agnel

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    The Col d'Agnel is the highest road pass connecting two countries. At 9003 feet, it is the second highest road pass in the French Alps behind the Col de l'Iseran (9088 ft) and the second highest road pass in the Italian Alps behind the Col du Stelvio (9045 ft)

    A lot of the passes used in the Tour de France have statues or memorials for famous bicyclists like this guy.

    The rain was getting harder, and the mist was getting thicker, so I decided not to go down into the valley to see the lake. I turned around here and headed back into France.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    The Gorge de Guil

    The Gorge de Guil

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    The Gorge de Guil is pretty here but more spectacular views were further on. Too bad there was no place to stop and click a photo. The gorge gets so steep and narrow that the road is cut out of the sheer rock cliff. You have a rock roof over the road. It's what the French call a balcony road.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    My balcony
    GuillestreThe narrower the street, the older the street.I like the bright colors in GuillestreSomebody is living in this ruinI expect Belle to walk through this square reading a bookThe church in GuillestreA fountain with rose marble paving

    Guillestre

    8.–9. sep. 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I arrived at the hotel wet and cold. Well not too wet. My feet were getting a little damp and my gloves were soaked but the rest of me was okay. My rain gear leaked in the one spot where rain gear always leaks.

    About an hour before I arrived, the TomTom GPS touch screen stopped responding. I took it into the hotel and asked where I could buy rice. The hotel clerk reminded me that it was Sunday and the stores were closed. Kindly, she brought a bag of rice from the kitchen. Tomorrow I will see if it will work again. I already have a plan B, the Connected Ride app.

    I hung up my gloves to dry and walked into town to explore. I found a fountain, a church, and some shops. What more can you ask for in a little French village? I saw what seemed to be a ruin until I looked closer. There are modern elements to that Old Stone Tower. I think somebody's living there.

    Appropriately, they built a fountain dedicated to the man who built the aqueduct that brought the town's water. The plaza is decorated with the "local pink marble." I had to laugh because how many towns have a local marble quarry?    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Pumpkin soup with lamb meatballs
    Slow cooked lamb with pine nutsCheese plate because I am in FranceMillefeuille work marron cream and caramel

    Best Dinner of the Trip, So Far

    8. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    La Bolée restaurant by chef Benoît Bernard served me one of the best meals of my life. The menu had a full page listing who supplied their food. The meat came from this local farm. They got their fish from local aquaculture. They got the wine from certain domaines. It was incredible. I've never seen a restaurant list their suppliers.

    I started off with a pumpkin soup with lamb meatballs. An amazing combination of flavors. Then I had slow cooked lamb with pine nuts. Succulent, falling off the bone tender, so flavorful. Of course, there was a cheese course. For dessert, I had the millefeuille (thousand leaves) with marron cream and caramel. Everything was just perfect. I stopped by about an hour before they opened for dinner to make my reservation. It's a good thing I did because I saw somebody get turned away. If you're in the area of Guillestre, you have to eat here.

    One of the best meals I've ever had in my life. And it only cost €52 including two glasses of wine.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Vallée de Vars
    Vallée de VarsVars may be a small by French standard but it would be big in America

    Vallée de Vars

    9. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    From a sunny start in Guillestre, i headed up the Vallée de Vars. Typical of this region of France, skiing and agriculture are the basis of the economy. It has 115 miles of trails but here it is just another ski resort. In the States, it would be big and famous.

    Today's mountain passes:
    Col de Var
    Col de Larche
    Col de la Lombarde
    Col de la Couillole    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Wonder who lives up there?
    Luigi's fountain

    Luigi's Fountain

    9. september 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    The Italian roads to the Col de la Lombarde are the narrowest I have yet encountered. Frequently with a steep drop right at the pavement's edge. There are beautiful views to ease the terror.

    All over France and Italy are public water fountains from the old times. I took a drink from Luigi's fountain because he's such a famous plumber.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    A new sticker
    The road from Italy. I can't believe the truck going down that road.Looking into France

    Col de la Lombarde

    9. september 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The narrow, scary Italian road transforms into a wider, smoother French road at the Col de la Lombarde. I saw a truck driver pull over to admire the view. His box truck was pointed into Italy and I wondered how comfortable he would be driving his truck over the road that had just scared this motorcyclist. The French road was wider and had better pavement. I enjoyed it more although the Italian side had better scenery.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Flags of many nations, including the Stars and Stripes
    The town hall and a bar.Two of The Village churchesThe church

    Isola

    9. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Isola 2000 is a massive and famous ski area. At the bottom of the mountain, in the valley, is its namesake in the town of Isola. I made a pit stop here and stretched my legs by wandering a few of its streets. Like most French towns, it's pretty. Sometime during the 19th century, there was definitely an effort to make villages look good.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Do I recognize that sticker?
    Another bicycle monument

    Col de la Couillole

    9. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The road up to this mountain pass is another one of those narrow, twisting roads where you have a drop-off on one side and a rock wall in the other. This road had more traffic than the others and several times I had to move closer to the edge than I was comfortable with or so close to the rock wall that I was worried about scraping the saddlebags against the rock.

    This area is in the Mercantour National Park. It's one of the most biodiverse places in France. Many of the following days will be in this park

    Of course, there's a bicycle monument on top. This pass is another famous one on the Tour de France. You know you're on a road that's used in the tour by the painting on the road surface, graffiti really. People would write words of encouragement for their favorite rider or team. I hope they used high traction road paint. The other way you can tell it's on the tour is there's going to be a monument on top, either to a famous cyclist or to bicycling in general.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Notice the Monaco license plate on the Porsche
    The view from my room windowApéro spritz with Compari sparkling in the late afternoon sunAppetizer of terrine and head cheeseTrout sauteed in oil.Ice cream with GénépiAn espresso came with three digestifs

    Beuil

    9. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I arrived at the hotel before 3:00 p.m. Maybe I should be stopping for long lunches. I figured it had to be a pretty fancy hotel because I parked behind a Porsche with Monaco license plates. The driver and his much younger girlfriend were having a drink on the patio.

    I love the view out the window of my room. France really is beautiful. I sat on the same patio as the rich Monégasque and enjoyed an apéro spritz with Compari.

    I had dinner at the hotel and they surprised me. The appetizer was a selection of cold meats. There was a terrine, similar to a meat loaf. Sliced head cheese was delicious with the spicy mustard. In the jar, sliced mushrooms. You took as much as you pleased.

    For my plat, I enjoyed the trout sauteed in oil. I'm not sure when I last used a fish knife. It may have been fifty years ago when I was last in Paris. After a couple of mistakes, it came back to me and I think I was successful. It was served with pureed squash and a salad.

    For dessert, I enjoyed ice cream with Génépi, alpine gin. I ordered an espresso which included 3 digestifs: green melon, green apple, and I cannot remember the third after tasting them all.

    The French know that food is not just for the body, but the spirit too. I become philosophical after a few drinks.    Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Beuil
    Beuil from the L'Escapade hotel

    The Second Half of the Trip

    10. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    I had a wonderful night's sleep and I'm now ready to start the second half of the trip. It's half over and it already seems like I've had a full vacation experience. I guess that's because American vacations are so short. The weather is so gorgeous today. The sky has no clouds except for a few small high ones.Les mer

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Shoulders? Who needs road shoulders?
    I'm riding in the skyClimbing towards the Col de la BonnetteThe ruins of Camp des Fourches

    Camp des Fourches

    10. september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    The Camp des Fourches is a high mountain military barracks built on a strategic point on the road to the Col de la Bonette. It didn't work: the tourists invaded anyway.

    Riding from South to North means I'm riding on the uphill side of the road most of the time. When I ride on the cliff side of the road, I fight my fear of heights.Les mer

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