Astorga-Rabanal del Camino 12 1/2 miles

The sun rises around 8:30 am around here so when I was up and at ‘em before 7 this morning, I knew I’d have a dark walk for a while.

What I soon realized is that it was VERY dark, along a moderate-speed highway frequented by trucks, and I was COMPLETELY alone. I thought to myself, “I’m going to get murdered and Geoff is going to kill me for that.”

After about two miles, I passed a fenced-in dog apparently (I couldn’t see him, only hear him) and about 5 minutes later I heard him barking again so I knew that finally another pilgrim was coming up behind me.

By the time it was light enough to turn off my headlamp, I was being passed by dozens of people and I was so fricking grateful.

Soon thereafter, my new friend Donna from Charlottesville moseyed up behind me and the rest of the day flew by as we gabbed the whole time. We stopped at every town we came to—all adorable—and sat and ate or drank, and rested our feet.

And the rain finally stopped. Apparently the sun DOES shine in Spain. (Your brain is going to want to sing from My Fair Lady now. Just let it. I’ve tried to not let mine go there but it’s useless.)

As we neared Rabanal, our friends Wendy and Bruce caught up to us and we finished the day together.

My albergue was right at the start of town, thank you baby Jesus, so I peeled off first. The woman at the albergue did my laundry for me for 8 Euros—fucking worth it—and I went next door and ate a hamburger and drank a beer. Met pilgrims who were short distancers like me. They started in Léon two days before me and they’re from Tennessee. Forgot their names.

Afterwards I napped, which was glorious, then dinner with my Camino friends.

I’m in a bunk room with at least seven other women tonight. This is, I think, my last bunk room of my Camino. I have a private hotel room the next two nights and then when Laura and I join up, we’ll share a private double.

I wanted the hostel experience because I never did it in college. Now I can say I’ve done it and I’m fine with not doing it anymore. I’d like to lay in bed in my undies and a shirt and not share a bathroom with dozens of others. I’d like a window I can open up and let in fresh air. I’d like a real goddamn shower and a real towel. (I brought a Sham Wow to keep my pack weight down and that thing gets the job done but is entirely unsatisfying.)

By starting where I did, I avoided, purposefully, the least pleasant part of the Camino Frances and now we are moving into higher elevations and prettier views. There was an 1100 foot elevation gain today and it is noticeably cooler. In a few days, we’ll hit the highest point of the Camino.

I’m having so much fun. My feet, knock wood, are holding up okay. So is my back. Physically I feel great. The walking is gorgeous and I’ve met countless people from all over the world. I am so grateful.Read more