Las Herrerias-Fonfria 12 miles

By horse: 5 miles
By foot: 7 miles

Our new best friend Victor was waiting for us this morning with our rides, Bonnie and Paola, to take us up the mountain to O Cebreiro. He walked/guided the horses the whole way, never stopping to gasp for air and continuing to carry on conversations with us. Victor is apparently Superman.

The route was gorgeous. We walked through a lush green forest and emerged above the clouds to a bright blue sky. Victor told us it was our destiny to ride today because it has been rainy and cloudy for weeks on end.

After we said adios to the three of them, we headed into charming O Cebreiro for lunch. The tortilla con patata we had today was the best one yet. The woman who prepared it for us told us how to make it and we are both prepared to give it a try when we get home, though it does sound like it will take some trial and error. Will be worth it if we can come remotely close to what we ate today.

The walk into Fonfria was stunning. Green mountains for days and a lovely cool breeze. On our way, we met a truly international couple. He was German, she was Korean, and they live in Japan. Poor guy was telling us he got food poisoning a few days ago but still managed to walk 25 km after throwing up all night. Show off.

There was one killer of a hill about three miles from Fonfria that was a bit of a monster but there was a lovely bar at the top where Laura and I rested and refortified.

Our hotel is dreamy. We were able to do laundry, which was highly necessary. Dinner was a community meal with everyone else staying here.Read more