• Carlea Bauman
  • Carlea Bauman

Zion-Bryce-Grand Canyon

The Bishop Family hits the road Read more
  • Trip start
    June 16, 2024
  • Made it to Vegas

    June 16, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Easy (but long) flight. Followed by what felt like a longer wait for our bags to show up. We are in the cab to pick up our sleeper van. We are fricking starving. Three-ish hour drive to Zion ahead of us.Read more

  • If this is the worst that happens…

    June 17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    *This story has been posted with Isabel’s permission. She said she wants the world to know what a badass she is.*

    As previously detailed, we hiked The Narrows Monday. I told the kids before we started that this would be our physically most demanding day. I had no idea.

    We rented e-bikes in town so we could avoid the lines for the park shuttles (think Disney World at peak). E-bikes rock. I’m a new fan.

    It is about an hour ride to the trailhead and Isabel, the great independent spirit that she is, asked if she could ride ahead of us. 1) She’s a good rider, 2) the only real traffic in the park are shuttles, and when they approach, bikers are required to pull to the side of the road and stop, and 3) it was a single road up to the trailhead. She wouldn’t get lost. I was fine with it. Off she went. A while later, Bodhi and I round a bend and see her off her bike. “Mama, I chipped my tooth.”

    She’d fallen on some loose gravel. Amazingly, AMAZINGLY, she wasn’t scraped up too badly (other than the huge chunk of tooth now gone).

    She was shaken up and we started to turn back. She was afraid to get back on her bike immediately and wanted to walk the bikes at first. This wasn’t going to work though because e-bikes are heavy and it was fricking hot—and we were about seven miles from the start. We had almost reached the trailhead.

    So we found some shade and chilled for a few minutes. And then, again amazingly, she decided she wanted to keep going to The Narrows. So she got back on that bike like the badass she is, finished the ride, and then did the hike.

    The Narrows is a slot canyon through which the Virgin River runs. Hiking it has been described as walking on submerged bowling balls, and I’d say that tracks. To get to the water, there is a 1-mile paved hike that is utter misery in the heat. So it wasn’t an easy time.

    But the kids and I had so much fun. I hoped they would like it but to see them marvel at it was thrilling for me, especially as a mom who sees them usually glued to their screens. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime thing and I’m so grateful we were able to do it and that Isabel persevered through something truly frightening and shocking.

    Her tooth seems to be holding its own. I’ve spoken with my mother-in-law, who is a former dental hygienist, and Izzy’s dentist’s office, and we have a plan in place if things take a turn for the worse. But for now, we forge on and we’ll see the doc the day after we get back.
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  • Have you ever walked behind a waterfall?

    June 18, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We had a much more relaxed day today. We left Zion NP and headed to Bryce Canyon NP, about 2 hours away.

    We stopped for buffalo. Or were they bison? We stopped so I could take a picture of a red rock arch carved around the roadway. We stopped so I could pee. Isabel was ready to leave me on the side of the road and drive herself, zero skills be damned.

    The highlight was the Mossy Cave hike. We didn’t even care about the mossy cave. We were there for the waterfall that we could walk behind.

    The other highlight is the climate change. Halleluyer! Highs in the low 70s, lows in the 30s. What?! We are at a campground basking in the glorious no need for AC for two nights.
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  • Isabel’s kryptonite

    June 19, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    My badass daughter's kryptonite is heights. And I nearly killed her today with a hike from Bryce Point to Inspiration Point in Bryce Canyon NP. It’s a rim trail that has no railings or fences for most of its 1 1/2 miles. A crueler person would have taken a photo of her hunched over, walking like a giant question mark during the especially narrow parts of the trail. Instead you’ll just have to settle for the imagery.

    Bodhi nearly stopped my heart with the notion that he could walk and take pictures at the same time. I quickly put the kibosh on that and told him that when the phone came out, the feet *had* to stop moving.

    But goddam it was gorgeous. Breathtaking. Those spires are called “hoodoos”. When Bodhi was a toddler he used to pronounce yellow as “oo-doo” so that’s what I kept calling them because nothing is cuter than Toddler Bodhi.

    So anyhoo, that was supposed to be the first of two hikes in Bryce today. As you can imagine, the second hike did not occur because I’m not that much of a monster. I’d love to hike the shit out of this park but it’s not going to happen this time around.

    Pic 4 is of a sign that tickled me. Honestly, National Park Service, the thought never fucking entered my mind. But you know they had to put that there because more than two idiots fell to their deaths there.

    Pic 5 is of a guy we were hopscotching with who kept going right up to the edge. Made me nervous.
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  • Simplicity

    June 20, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 41 °F

    The children were completely resistant to my fervent desire to attend the rodeo last night. Selfish.

    Bodhi and I went to dinner while Iz got some alone time at the campsite. Afterward, we wandered around the gift and rock shops that are part of the family-owned tourist conglomerate that operates just outside of Bryce Canyon NP. The joy that kid gets out of shiny stones is a delight.

    We got ice cream, laughed at the “jail” they had for photo ops, and meandered back to our campsite. It reminded me of the road trips I took with my parents and the feeling of nowhere to be and nothing in particular to do but to marvel at the landscape.

    We have heard lots of French, German, Italian, and Chinese so far, and seen many families from India. I particularly enjoyed an exchange I witnessed between an Indian diner and an employee at a restaurant that touted its “Cowboy buffet” on what items were vegetarian. If that employee hadn’t yet understood how small the world has gotten, he better get there quick.
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  • Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

    June 20, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Take two activities that kids love—going to the beach and sledding—and combine the worst of them—trudging through sand and walking to the top of the sledding hill—and you’ve got today’s, “Well, at least we can say we tried it,” outing.

    Let’s add that it was hot (though we went early so not as hot as it can get) and, well, it was a bit of a bust. And it completely drained us for the day.

    I fear we will be finding pink sand in our nether regions for weeks.

    Tonight we are in Kanab, Utah, which is an adorable town with lots of cute stores and art and restaurants. And legit grocery stores, something we haven’t seen since we left Las Vegas.
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  • WTF, Page, AZ?

    June 21, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Today we toured a “secret” portion of Antelope Canyon and accessed a private viewing spot of Horseshoe Bend.

    It cost a pretty penny but it was worth it not having to deal with, you know, people. There were seven people in our group and I could see hundreds over yonder at the public Horseshoe Bend spot.

    Plus our tour came with a guide who played a Navajo flute in the canyon so we could appreciate the gorgeous acoustics.

    AND we got to ride in a nifty open air jeep to get there. So much fun.

    AND the company is Native owned because fuck the U.S. government and its genocidal campaign against the indigenous people of North America.

    5/5 would tour again.

    Antelope Canyon was stunning and the kids were gobsmacked once again. I fricking love seeing their reactions. Their world is being utterly rocked and I LOVE IT.

    Horseshoe Bend is enormous, which of course it is, but still hard to really comprehend until you’re standing above it. As we were there, a thunderstorm was approaching. See pic #6 for what that did to me.

    HOWEVER. The whole thing took place in Page, AZ, which is in a “time zone island” as the woman in the tour company’s office called it. We needed to be there at 11 am. Page is an hour behind where we are staying (in Kanab, UT) which is also a little over an hour away. Do you know how much this fucked with my lady brain? The pretzels I was twisting in to make sure we arrived when we were supposed to? Ermagerd. It caused me physical pain.

    Worth it.
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  • Special guest appearance!

    June 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Geoff and I managed to shock the kids. He flew into Vegas yesterday and met us at the Grand Canyon today. We kept it a secret from the kids and the reveal was so much fun!

    He returns to Vegas Monday and then home Tuesday. We plan to live it up while we’re together.Read more

  • “I’m happy”

    June 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We are staying in a cabin at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

    We had dinner at the North Rim Lodge restaurant, with its unbelievable views, followed by a short walk around the area. (I’m going to need some new words for this trip because I am relying on the same couple of adjectives and they just don’t serve their purpose properly.)

    Later, Geoff and Iz were playing guitar and singing and Bodhi and I were laying down in the other room, with the view of the setting sun reflecting in the canyon outside our window. And my boy, who inherited my anxiety gene, who tends to catastrophize just like I do, said, “I’m happy.”

    And scene. ❤️
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  • Tomorrow our butts will hurt

    June 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 82 °F

    We rode Ike, Gus, Susie-Q and Nellie into the Grand Canyon today. They are mules. We started at the North Kaibab Trailhead, descended 2000 ft to the Supai Tunnel and then those poor mules had to haul our asses back up.

    Later, Geoff and I did a 3 mile out and back on the Transept Trail. Three quiet (and hot) miles where we got to hear the wind whistle through the pines.

    Currently, I’m sitting on the patio of the lodge with Geoff and Bodhi (Iz is sleeping in the cabin) and my heart is so full of gratitude I want to yell it out into the canyon.
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  • Winding down

    June 25, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 106 °F

    We left the Grand Canyon yesterday morning. The kids and I headed back to Zion, trying to stretch out the peace and beauty just a little longer, and Geoff headed to Vegas for some work meetings before flying home today.

    When we arrived in Springdale, our room wasn’t ready yet so we decided to take the shuttle around Zion to kill some time. It wasn’t fricking air conditioned. OMG. So that became an hour long slog through hell.

    It was too hot to do anything. Bodhi and I walked to dinner but the heat combined with the fact that our trip is winding down resulted in a blanket of melancholy settling over me.

    But then. This morning I woke up a little after 5 and headed out to do The Watchman hike before the sun broke over the cliffs of Zion and rendered everything lava-esque. A lovely, peaceful, solo hike is just the emotional reset I needed.

    Now we are in Las Vegas. Gross, garish Las Vegas. Ugh.

    Before we checked into our hotel (a Marriott, of course) we went to a crazy place called Omega Mart. Hard to describe but here goes: Interactive art installation that infuses mystery, music, fantasy, and, of course, black lights in a very large space with many rooms to explore. The kids used words like crazy, stimulating, weird, and digital. It was fun. Very different from the past 9 days.

    Tomorrow, home. We miss our kittehs very much.
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    Trip end
    June 26, 2024