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Berlin, Corfu Northern GreeceBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
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A 26-day adventure by Carol Read more
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  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 11

    Day 11 Berlin to Corfu

    May 22, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    From a drizzly morning in Berlin to brilliant sunshine and the blue-est ocean in Corfu! And the people are so much more friendly and relaxed.
    Easyjet was smoothe, sat next to the only german extroverts in berlin who said his Australian boss said he had a laugh like an australian native bird. And he did just like a kookaburra.
    Corfu town looked gorgeous so walked round the bay viewing the old fort and the new fort, through the venetian Liston Square, then hit the tourist shops and started to get a bit disallusioned in the search for an authentic ouzo stop.
    Then i stumbled on the Mikro Cafe with outside tables stretching up some steps with a decent greek crowd which was perfect.
    Stuck up conversation with greek (via NY) and italian couple living in Milan. Unbelievably his son owns a B&B in Lecce and a few months ago i booked 3 nights at the very B&B for Sept! Micro cosmos !
    They come to Corfu every year so showed me the best galataboureko shop (also home made risogala) which had been there since 1945. Apparently they usually have a mound of butter on the counter.
    Got terribly lost getting home as i had left in daylight and hadnt got my online maps sorted... anyway back now.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 12

    Day 12 Corfu

    May 23, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Greeks invented the word chaos - the main square in Corfu town where the buses stop defines the word.
    Bought a spanakopita and bougatsa from Thessalonikas Bakery as recommended by Angie and Giorgio then found the island buses leave from a further 15min walk away. Made it to Paleokastritsa with beautiful sandy beach coves and stunning aqua coloured water. Walked to the monastary, then baked and swum. It must be shockingly crowded in high season.
    Not really into the “cave” that I am staying in - the feng shui is all wrong. So spending minimal time there, going out for pre dinner ouzo in Mikro Cafe again.
    Got annoyed at the touristy eating options so had tarama, bread and gigantes.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
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    Day 13

    Day 13 Corfu

    May 24, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Fun day even though the cruise ships were in. Bought 2 excellent small spanakopitas and walked early up to the new fort and the old fort for spectacular views over the town and sea. Decided against bus to Sidari as likely to be as touristy as Paleokastritsa yesterday and I really have not spent much time in Corfu town.
    Walked south to the windmill for an excellent swim off the rocks. Met the local swimmers who are 365 day a year-ers and retired Olympic Airline stewards. Then stopped for what was to be a light lunch and have never tipped nearly 100% of the bill before. Ordered ouzo and fried zucchinis for 6euros total and was also given tzatziki, olives, orange cake, yoghurt and strawberries -Taverna Alexakis will get a good tripadvisor rating from me.
    On the way back I had an afternoon swim just off the corner of where i am staying and was entertained by italian boys being too afraid of the cold water to swim but trying to impress the girls who were already in.
    Angie and Giorgio invited me to their air bnb for ouzo aperitivo so popped downtown and bought a selection of fancy chocolates to take. Just as well as of course aperitivo of course with greek/italians turned into dinner - very pleasant on the steps of the Byzantine Museum with uninterrupted sea and sunset views. Angie’s 90 yo mother Toula joined us - a very fiesty woman who had a strange fixation with Israel and calling us snowmen as we were wrapped in cosy blankets.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
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    Day 14

    Day 14 Corfu to Ioannina

    May 25, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I was glad to leave the cave behind though only scratched the surface of Corfu. It took me the 3 days to work out how not to get lost in the old town - it was a surprisingly big town and with a car the island must have a lot to offer.
    Early start with 8:15 bus from the Green Bus Terminal. Had to buy bus and ferry ticket at bus station but yet they stop at the port for some to get out and buy the ferry ticket. Ferry was uneventful, found the bus again and got stuck with crazy woman who looked terrified the bus would crash, then Ktel at its finest dumped me 5 km out of Ioannina. Lovely greek girl from bus appeared with taxi going to the bus station I was expecting and she offered me a lift - saved!!
    Ioannina bus station was savage - crowded as it is election day tomorrow and many people have to return to their home town to vote. Bought a ticket for Monday and was not thinking much of Ioannina till i reached Its Kale Hotel in the walls of the old castle - mountains with snow in the distance. Half an hour wait for room but they gave me coffee, apple pie, water, wifi and information - does not happen that way in Berlin!
    Great lunch of mushroom, potato, cheese bake and first retsina at the most crowded taverna in the main shopping street. And complimentary salad with unusual greens “from the sea”.
    Dinner at Serios recommended by hotel was ordinary grilled chicken, large bowl of horta and 1/4 kilo white wine.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    11
    Day 15

    Day 15 Ioannina

    May 26, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Ioannina is famous for pies and breakfast at Its Kale Hotel was an excellent example - chicken pie, cheese pie, spinach pie, bougatsa plus cooked to order omelette, rice pudding, meats, cheese, coffee and juice.
    Took the 15min ferry to Nisi Island - extremely peaceful with amazing frescoes in one of the monasteries and hideous live eels from the lake in tanks in tavernas. Ali Pasha museum also.
    Took 5 euro taxi to the impressive Perama Cave. Us 3 english speakers were herded to the front with the majority of the group behind, Guide did both languages. Penny (who went to Beacon Hill High) and Bob drove me back to town and we had a drink at a taverna on the lake.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 16

    Day 16 Ioannina to Kalambaka

    May 27, 2019 in Greece ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a quick breakfast at the lovely Its Kale the rain forced me to take a taxi to the bus station. The EU funded Egnatia Highway has cut tunnels through the Pindos Ranges so it was just over a 2 hour trip via Metsovo (Greece’s ski resort) to Kalambaka. Room not ready so walked to the neighbouring village of Kastraki to the foot of the boulders and the new geological museum. This area used to be a river delta, so rocks are conglomerate. River drained away, some seismic activity and erosion and here we are. The first monastry was built in 1350.
    Luckily the sky cleared in time for the Sunset Tour which also included the 11th century cathedral built on and using stones from the temple of apollo.
    Dinner was in the main square in Pantellino Tavern - roast lamb, briam and aspro krassi. Slept well !    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    12
    Day 17

    Day 17 Meteora

    May 28, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Five hour hiking tour from 8:30 this morning was very good despite two loud canadians from Montreal (their french sounds really odd). Also chatty gay Portugese guys, girl from SFO and delightful chinese family with two daughters from Georgia US. Oh didnt mention the fat Australian woman who tripped and hurt her knee - easy to do on the uneven ground but a five hour hike was always going to be ambitious for her.
    So we walked through oak forests, lots of up and downs, great views, to a restored but uninhabited monastry and ending at Varlaam monastry. Midway on a flat rock with views they handed round excellent walnut and fig slices apparently made in a factory in Athens but tasted very home made and a nice touch.
    Once back in Kalambaka after 2:30 I finally got my first coffee for the day, then back to Totis Rooms, then out for an ouzo before back to same taverna as last night for 1/4kg white wine for 2euro ( thats nearly 3 glasses for $3) from Giogio my friendly greek waiter. Tried the “chicken in the oven”    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 18

    Day 18 Kalambaka - Thessaloniki

    May 29, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Two trains to get to Thessaloniki but what a sensory impact this city has !
    Very byzantine feel, chaotic but get off the main Via Egnatia and its quiet but interesting.
    The Blue Bottle Hotel staff were lovely - free cappuccino, croissant and water for 20 mins while room cleaning was being finished.
    Explored down to the main square onto waterfront and into the street markets. Cafes galore, sweet shops galore.
    Joined the “free” walking tour of the upper town (ano poli) at 6pm meeting at Profit Ilias. Giorgos was a great talker and historian and musican but he didnt really show much. Nevertheless the Profit Ilias was great (why did he not even mention it?) and we walked to the acropolus of the town which i wouldnt have done for great views. Past the church of St David with amazing mosaic as evidenced by the picture he showed us (poor marketing to me). He played us two rembetika songs on bouzouki also. Noted some street signs show distance, minutes to walk and calaries you will burn.
    Long walk home so dinner at Extravaganza - pea risotto with greek rose and yum Samos vin doux.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 19

    Day 19 Thessaloniki to Nikiti

    May 30, 2019 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Nikiti is as expected Little Moscow and/or Bulgaria so my plan was to walk 6kms to the nicer but less touristed beach of Vourvouras. The plan failed as after a few kms the road went through the seaside village of Kastri which felt like a nuclear bomb had zapped everyone. There were villas, domatia, houses but no sign of any life until a yappy white guard poodle ran round the inside of a fence. Next was a track over the headland which felt like gypsy territory so back to Kastri for a quick swim - water was delightful, then started to stride back until a herd of 100+ goats (many with nasty looking horns) blocked the road out..... nothing to do but wait. Ute came along going my direction which parted them so I snuck through on his wake.
    So had a couple of swims at Nikiti main beach, even buying tzatziki to get use of a beach lounge as the sand was scrappy.
    Had dinner at Marina Hotel where I’m staying - nice grilled octopus, horta and retsina.    Read more

  • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
    Day 20

    Day 20 Nikiti

    May 31, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Weather was a bit cloudy and the forecast not great so I had breakfast omelette, toast and jam and nasty filter coffee in the hotel. Lucky Friday is market day in Nikiti back up on the main road. It was rather impressive - vege stalls of course (cherries predominated but also strawbs, apricots and hard peaches), wine stalls, ouzo, olive stalls and loads of italian beachy clothes. Photo shows vine leaves to wrap dolmades, ouzo, wine and samphire grass.
    Sat on beach but darkish clouds came across so found “Plaisir” cafe with modern street front but traditional look greek bakery and sweets out the back. Here I had my first nespresso cappucino in Greece with nice sweet and water, being both the best and the cheapest cappo in Greece at 2.30euro.
    After some rain i walked up to old Nikiti which was really peaceful with just a couple of bars - one i probably should have visited.
    Very nice steamed mussels at hotel.    Read more

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