- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 18
- perjantai 4. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 19.04
- 🌩️ 73 °F
- Korkeus: 485 m
EspanjaPeñarrubia43°14’10” N 4°33’6” W
Cades to Cicera

Packing for the Camino is a science. You pack for necessity, you pack for weight, and some things you pack for convenience. But when you are carrying your backpack over 500 miles, your back, knees, and feet let you know that there is a fine balance between convenience and physical pain.
After every trip, we talk about what we brought that we didn’t need, what we needed and should have brought, and how we might pack differently next time. While we are on the Camino, we keep track of what we have used and what we haven’t. There are a few things I will always carry and just pray I won’t need – extra tips for my walking poles, and an extra bite valve for my water bladder. In both cases, I’ve lost them and had to go without, which was traumatic. They are worth the extra little weight. I also carry emergency toilet paper, cashews, and electrolyte packets. Bonnie carries the emergency peanut M&Ms.
I don't carry a camera, a fan, or a hairdryer due to their weight, but I’d love to have all three of them. Last night, the albergue allowed us to use their hairdryer to dry out our socks, as they didn’t dry out on the line in time before the rain started last night. I do carry a mini elastic clothesline and tiny safety pins, which we use frequently.
I carry three pairs of underwear. Today, this proved to be a great decision. I wore one pair to hike in. The pair I wore yesterday was still damp from the wash, so thankfully, I had a third clean/dry pair to put on after my shower. Now the other two are hanging on hooks near the window in our room as it is getting ready to storm outside again. It is not uncommon to see pilgrims with yesterday’s delicates pinned to the outside of their backpacks so they can continue drying.
One of the last convenience items I removed from my backpack before leaving Boise was a miniature bottle of hot sauce. Sounds silly, but it is true. While I appreciate the protein and carbs in a serving of Spanish tortilla (kind of an egg and potato omelette in the shape of a pie), I find this national dish, that you can find in most any bar or cafe on the Camino, rather bland. I like tortilla and even purchased interlocking pans that make cooking them at home convenient. But when I share servings of them with friends and family, I also offer salsa, hot sauce, and sour cream.
We met a pilgrim from the Boston area. Sarah was talking with us about food on the Camino. After looking around to make sure no one could overhear, I admitted to her that I found tortilla bland.
“Me too!”
“I almost brought hot sauce with me.”
“I did bring some!”
“Are you kidding me?”
“Nope. I pull it out at each bar when necessary.”
This was just the permission I needed. The next time Bonnie and I were in a grocery store, I saw a small bottle of Tabasco sauce that has now been added to my emergency bag. It has even seen some use.
I do like trying the local food. I ate chickpea stew for dinner yesterday and ordered lentil stew today for lunch. I just need hot sauce for my tortilla.
And salt for my french fries. What is the purpose of french fries if they are sans salt? At least they provide salt packets if requested as they have not heard of salt and pepper shakers over here.
P.S. These mountains are majestic!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 19
- lauantai 5. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 22.16
- ☁️ 66 °F
- Korkeus: 301 m
EspanjaPotes43°9’18” N 4°37’13” W
Cicera to Potes, Spain

I don’t have much energy left to write this evening. We are out of juice and need to refuel.
We decided that today resembled the Stations of the Cross. Traditionally these are the stages and stops that Jesus made on his way to the crucifixion. If I did have some energy I’d find 14 vignettes from today and share these little stories with all of the details, that took us up to the Lebaniego Cross at the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana.
But, I don’t.
Let’s just say today wasn't easy:
* We had a lost item.
* A fellow pilgrim was treated very cruelly by our host this morning.
* A walking pole was broken during a fall.
* Bonnie bruised her hand, her shin and according to her, her ego.
* We walked up and up and up, only for the Way to then go down, down, down.
* We then walked up, up, up again.
* We wanted to avoid an alternative route that many pilgrims had commented on a website was dangerous due to exposure and vertigo.
* We found ourselves on that path and stayed very leery, almost in fear of what was around the corner.
* They were all stupid. There was no exposure, safety issues, or concerns. We wasted energy on fear.
* Once back on the main path the Way went back down, down, down again.
* An unsmiling man tried to sell us goat cheese.
* Once we arrived in town we still had to walk another three KM up to the monastery.
* After visiting the monastery we had to walk another three KM down to the town.
We have to walk back up to the monastery tomorrow to start our next stage, which is longer and steeper than today’s.
Today was also redemptive.
* The lost item was found.
* Our Norwegian friend forgave the host of her ill behavior and cruelty.
* We found new hiking poles.
* Bruises heal and Bonnie is tough. I am so glad we are doing this together.
* We are walking the Camino. Of course it is hard.
* Sometimes you can’t avoid hardships, and you shouldn’t always believe what you read from others about them.
* We bought cold electrolyte drinks from the goat cheese man.
* The host and staff of our place tonight have gone out of their way to take care of us.
* The experience at the monastery was more emotional than I expected. I am really glad we walked here.
* Bonnie found a Mexican restaurant and though we didn’t have reservations they found a table for us. We stuffed ourselves.
* Did I mention that we are walking in, over and around the Picos de Europa? These mountains and views are breathtaking. My photos simply do not capture the grandeur we are experiencing.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 19
- lauantai 5. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 22.29
- ☁️ 66 °F
- Korkeus: 301 m
EspanjaPotes43°9’18” N 4°37’12” W
Cicera to Potes, Part 2

- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 20
- sunnuntai 6. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 22.37
- 🌫 61 °F
- Korkeus: 898 m
EspanjaCamaleño43°7’45” N 4°47’12” W
Potes to Espinama

The phrase, “The Fix is In,” implies that an individual has tampered with something so that they can manipulate the outcome or change the results.
We tamper with people all the time. Perhaps we don't have malice in our intentions. We may truly think we have the person's best interests at heart. But do we?
Yesterday, Bonnie fell on a steep, slippery, muddy incline. I was about 15 yards in front of her on a switchback and heard her cry of surprise and then the snap of one of her hiking poles. Thankfully, there was no scream of pain. I came rushing back down the path to find Bonnie back on her feet, rubbing her palm, her shin, and holding her broken pole.
I’m not mechanically minded, but I attempted to magically reconnect the two pieces, but it was limp and lifeless, never to support again.
Bonnie told me to get back climbing and followed behind with her remaining pole.
I love my hiking poles. I have walked over 2000 miles with mine. They save my back on the inclines, my knees on the declines, and help me keep my rhythm on the straightaways. They also keep my hands from swelling, which can happen when you swing your hands below your waist as you walk. Just try to remove your ring after a five-hour hike without poles, and you will understand.
While the views on yesterday’s Camino stage were glorious, the gradients and the terrain were nasty both up and down. Bonnie was in for a difficult day.
I tried finding her another walking stick, showing her one that would have made Gandalf proud.
“No, Dad. I don’t need it. Please put it down.”
I kept checking on her. She said she was okay, just bruised, including her ego.
I asked her if it was more difficult going up. She said she was walking slower because she had to be more careful now. I appreciated that.
I asked her if it was more difficult going down. She responded that she was taking smaller steps and would shift the remaining pole from hand to hand when needed. Later she told me holding it in her left hand hurt because of the bruise.
I moved on ahead of her, getting to the top of a clearing to start strategizing how to get her a new pair of poles. I tried to think which of our upcoming stops would be quickest and easiest to get a delivery. I logged on to Amazon.es to select a pair. Just then Bonnie arrived and said, “I’m trying to find the value in walking with one pole. I think there is a reason for this happening today, and I’m processing it now.”
I closed the browser without saying anything to her and then acted like I was taking photos of the mountains.
I kept checking on her throughout the day. She never complained. In fact, she shared how grateful she was that her pole had done its job. It took the brunt of the fall and broke instead of her. She never once played the victim, nor did she let it affect our day. But I let it affect mine.
After arriving in town, we cleaned up and walked up to the monastery to obtain our final stamp on our Lebaniego credentials, receive our certificates of completion, and visit The Cross in the chapel.
I had an interesting prayer time, sitting in a pew, a few feet away from what the Catholic Church believes to be pieces of the actual cross that Jesus was crucified on. Whether it actually is or isn’t didn’t matter to me at the moment. I found myself deeply moved by sacrifice, empathy, and love.
These days I don’t hold tightly to the same catechisms I was raised with regarding the cross. They hold up about as well as my hiking pants.
Anyways, I came to the cross yesterday with a list of cares, mostly about people I care about. But I didn’t think that either the symbolism of the cross or the literal thing was a fix to these needs. I prayed for presence; I prayed for hope; I prayed for love.
I left feeling heard. I left feeling comforted. I left not feeling alone.
On the walk back to the village, I told Bonnie I wanted to stop in a few of the local shops to see if I could find a replacement scallop shell for the one that had broken on my backpack. While we didn’t find a shell, miracle of miracles, I found hiking poles!
Bonnie wasn’t that interested at first, but with some prodding, she left the store with two new hiking poles. I was relieved.
Today was a longer stage than yesterday, with even more elevation. We had new energy after a great night of sleep. We flew up the inclines through a glorious forest of oak, chestnut, and beech trees. We had quiet times of reflection as well as meaningful discussions.
I was about to praise her for changing her mind about getting the new poles (and in doing so, patting myself on my backpack) when she said something startling. “You know, Dad, I really was fine with just using one pole.”
“Then why did you buy the new ones?”
“I guess it was mostly for you. I knew you weren’t okay with me just having one pole, and you wouldn’t be fully present until it was resolved. I bought poles so that you could move forward.”
Ouch.
This is what got us talking about fixing people, and how often our ‘altruistic motives’ are honestly more about our own comfort than about how others are doing. Our meddling isn’t helping. In reality it could be pushing them away.
We need to let go of our false sense of control and thinking we know best.
Because what they really need is to feel heard, to be comforted, and to not feel alone.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 21
- maanantai 7. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 19.37
- ☁️ 59 °F
- Korkeus: 1 067 m
EspanjaCamaleño43°8’41” N 4°48’38” W
Fuente De!

The Camino Vadiniense leads you right to the foot of the Picos de Europa national park in Spain. It feels like the Idaho Sawtooths on steroids.
We woke up early and walked the five KM to Fuente De at the foot of the mountains. There is a Parador here, which are special state-owned hotels that are typically reconfigured historic buildings. They are used to promote tourism and Spanish heritage. Usually they are very luxurious and expensive. This one is a nice three star hotel and was only $100 a night.
We arrived a little after 8:00 am as we wanted to take the first cable car available up the mountain. We were hoping that the hotel would keep our backpacks for us so that we only had to carry our day packs on our excursion. Amazingly they told us that our room was ready and available and checked us in! It was humorous when the host asked us for our license plate number and we told her we had walked from the French border! Once in our room we quickly took what we needed for the day and headed out to purchase tickets for the gondola.
The ride lasts only four minutes but takes you 753 meters to an altitude of 1823 meters (5000 ft). At the top we took pictures of the glorious mountains that we have been walking towards all week. We were in heaven! We stayed out on the veranda of the cafe enjoying our incredible view. Our plan was to walk a 14 KM path down the mountain back to the Parador, allowing us to enjoy the whole morning in the mountains. As we got up to leave the clouds rolled in and we could no longer see the mountains at all! We were so thankful for our timing.
As we walked down the trail we enjoyed the magical mist that came and went with the wind. It made for dreamy pictures of all of the horses, cattle, sheep, and goats that roam free around the whole park.
The last five KM were back in the forest and we spent the remainder of the day at rest.
Tomorrow we are back on the Camino. We will pass out of the Cantabria region and into the region of Leon. After one more large elevation gain we will meander down into the northern limits of the Mesetta on our way towards the Camino Frances.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 21
- maanantai 7. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 19.44
- ☁️ 59 °F
- Korkeus: 1 070 m
EspanjaCamaleño43°8’40” N 4°48’38” W
Fuente De, part 2

- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 22
- tiistai 8. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 19.32
- ☀️ 70 °F
- Korkeus: 1 221 m
EspanjaBoca de Huérgano43°2’22” N 4°51’0” W
Fuente De to Portilla de la Reina

There are no towns or services between the Parador, where we were staying in Fuente Dé, and the town of Portilla de la Reina, some 23 KM away. This is a long stretch without food and an even longer one without coffee. We opted to stay at the hotel for breakfast before heading out.
Breakfast in Spain can be hit or miss. You may get toast and a glass of OJ. You may get coffee and a pastry. And sometimes you get a full buffet, which is what the Parador offered. We had discussed eating a heartier breakfast today, knowing there would be no other food than the snacks we carried. We brought back plates full of toast, fruit, yogurt, pastries, sliced meats, cheeses, and little jars of jams and applesauce. They brought coffee to our table as well as the bill.
“Sign here, please, sir.”
I signed. It was €20, about twice what Bonnie and I have been paying for breakfasts together. This is a Parador, so I signed without complaining. Bonnie and I kept chowing down.
“Look, Dad. This sign says that they will also make us scrambled eggs or an omelet if we want!”
We both laugh, wondering how anyone could want more food than what is already on the buffet.
“Excuse me, sir. We only charged you for one breakfast. Would you please sign here on this adjusted bill?”
Our send-off breakfast was now €40.
I swallow hard, and then look up at Bonnie, who raised her eyebrows at me.
“Of course,” I say, as I sign. “And could you please prepare two jamon and queso omelets to go?”
-----
Yesterday we took a cable car 700 meters up into the Picos Mountains and then strolled down. Today we walked 700 meters in elevation in the opposite direction in a little over 8 KM. It took us to a marvelous viewpoint of where we had traversed since leaving the ocean. Today we had cloudless skies. Mount Horcada de Valcavao sits at nearly 1800 meters. This is 500 meters higher than the village of O Cebreiro and 300-350 meters higher than the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) and Mt. Col de Lepoeder, the highest points on the Camino Frances. A cyclist, the only other person we saw all morning, arrived at the top just before we did, and we took photos for each other.
While strenuous, this last week has been magnificent. “I’m going to miss the climbs, Dad. I love these mountains. I don’t know why more people don’t walk this stretch. I find it personally more meaningful than any man-made church or cathedral.”
While we may be in the second stage of the Vadiniense Camino, today felt like a closing of a chapter as the remainder of this route goes down to, and then across, the Meseta. The few pilgrims we walked with this week are either going back to the Norte or taking other stages. We met one other pilgrim today when we checked into our albergue. He is from Spain and will walk further than us tomorrow. If he can’t find a place to stay, he will taxi to Leon. Almost half a million pilgrims completed Caminos last year in Santiago. It is kind of amazing to think that there are only three of us at this stage on this route right now. This is a quieter, lonelier Camino.
The last five KMs in the Picos were equally as stunning on this side of the pass. We found new Camino markers for this area and walked by an old shepherd’s hut. The remaining 10 KMs of this stage were on pavement, which made us miss the dirt path from earlier today. We found a couple of arrows that indicated an alternative route, but it hadn't been kept up and looked impassable. Since we had no cell service, we decided to play it safe and stick to the side of the road.
The albergue we are staying at is known for its hamburgers. We may not have had anything to eat since our big breakfast (we didn’t really take omelets to go), but I couldn’t finish the whole burger. The young couple who own and run this little inn are so cute and are great hosts. They also have a cute dog and a great swinging chair in their garden.
Our hearts and stomachs are full. We will miss our ups, but we will move forward.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 23
- keskiviikko 9. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 19.36
- ☀️ 77 °F
- Korkeus: 1 146 m
EspanjaRiaño42°58’33” N 5°0’19” W
Portilla de la Reina to Riano

Portilla de la Reina - 73
Barniedo - 60
Boca de Huergano - 140
Riaño - 490
It isn’t just the number of pilgrims that is lower on this Camino. The population of these small towns is on the lower side too.
Today, we didn’t leave until 9 AM so that we could have breakfast at the albergue where we stayed. We weren’t sure that we would find anything else open along the Way.
If we find an open cafe, we feel blessed. The first two were closed. The third was open and full of half the town.
We found a pharmacy in Boca de Huergano. We asked if they had Kinesiology Tape. We pre-tape potential hotspots on our feet each morning, and our roll is running low. When she tried to charge us €21 for a €6 roll of tape, we experienced highway robbery. We laughed and told her, "No, gracias." She laughed and put it back on her shelf.
Most of the distance today was along the N-621 highway. There wasn’t much of a shoulder. We found gratitude for the few kilometers that were on a dirt path. We also found peace that the majority of the day was alongside a river and a reservoir.
The last eight kilometers were under construction, and the road was limited to one-way traffic. It smelled like fresh asphalt. It wasn’t what we expected or wanted, but Bonnie pointed out that it was safer having the lane next to us shut down. One of the construction workers wished us a “Buen Camino” as we passed. It was the only one we heard today, and it made our hearts glad.
It is hot today, but our clothes are drying quicker.
We thought today could be sceneless. There are still beautiful mountains in front of us.
We found another pharmacy in Riaño. He charged us €6 for a roll of pink Kinesiology Tape.
We have 99.6 KM left to get to Leon. That is a lot of steps for finding gratitude.Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 24
- torstai 10. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 18.57
- ☀️ 86 °F
- Korkeus: 950 m
EspanjaCrémenes42°52’33” N 5°9’36” W
Riano to Valdore

We woke up early to the sunrise on the reservoir through our window. Neither of us felt like getting out of our shells, but this would be a long, hot day, so we pushed forward. Our first option after crossing the long bridge was to walk along the highway or take an alternative route that went up over the mountain pass. It wasn’t really an option. Though it would take us longer, we took the right-hand turn that led us into an enchanted pine forest. I made sure Bonnie was also seeing the faces in the trees, and I wasn't imagining them.
At the top of the high pass, I heard some rustling. I knew we had a rancher’s gate to pass through, and we had been spotting cattle and hearing their bells. I expected a bull, but instead, we met a Portuguese Pilgrim! Jose is also doing the Lebaniego and Vadiniense Caminos, but in reverse. He started in Leon and will walk up to the Norte and then come down the Primitivo from Oviedo (which Bonnie and I did last year). We had a nice time chatting and promised that we would look for each other in Santiago, as we may be finishing around the same time despite our clockwise and his counter-clockwise path.
Once the variant was over, we were forced back onto the highway until we hit the reservoir. At that point, we traveled through a long tunnel that then diverted down to a path on the east side of the river, which included sections of an old Roman Road. We found ruts that had been cut into the stone to make it easier for the Roman carts and wagons. While this route has not been very well marked and Bonnie and I decided it should not be a pilgrim's first Camino, we are so happy we are on this adventure.
Though we tried to shop for breakfast the night before, we didn’t come up with anything other than juice and pastries. It simply wasn’t enough fuel. We stopped for a snack break after getting through the tunnel, but Snickers’ satisfaction is temporary at best. The one bar/cafe that we counted on being open wasn’t. We could either wait a half hour or push on. Since we felt we were racing the heat, we kept moving.
By the time we had walked five hours, we were spent. Bonnie said, “Dad, do you know what I am going to tell people when they ask me about going on the Camino with my dad?”
“No. What?”
“Well, if it was based on this moment, I would tell them it was child abuse.”
Thankfully, the next town had a restaurant. It appeared to be open. We prayed they were serving lunch.
We greeted the bartender when we entered and put our backpacks and poles in the corner before collapsing at a table.
“Dos café con leche, y dos agua con gas, por favor,” I requested, ordering our first two coffees and chasers for the day.
“Sí.”
Then I asked him if we could have a menu and motioned with my hand to my mouth that we would like to eat. He spent the next three minutes telling me a story in Spanish, while gesturing back to the kitchen, that I didn’t understand, but it didn't sound promising.
All I could think to reply was, “Feed me, Seymour.”
He stopped talking and left the bar. I assumed it was to call the policia. Instead, he returned with our coffees, our waters, and a few minutes later both Bonnie and I were staring at full plates of steak, eggs, and fries. This Camino Angel even handed us a salt shaker! We devoured the food like we had marched on an overgrown Roman Road all morning. We sopped up the remaining eggs and grease with the basket of bread he also brought to the table.
We sighed in contentment.
He smiled in satisfaction.
We were refueled for the last stretch of the walk through the historic forest. We stopped to take pictures of poems that have been left on the trail so we could translate them later in our room. Poetry belongs in forests. I would like to see more of this trend.
This was a long stage today, actually one and a third. Tomorrow morning, we will walk 11 KM to a larger town where we have already identified a cafe and a grocery store where we can have breakfast and stock up for lunch. After that, we have another full stage to walk, about 20 KM.
Unfortunately, the hospitality we experienced at lunch isn’t always to be found on the Camino. When we arrived at the mid-stage, roadside hotel/restaurant where we would end our day, one of the ladies behind the bar told us, “No. No,” and went to get another woman. When she arrived, she told us the bad news.
“Completo.”
Which means full capacity. No rooms in the inn.
Jesus, Mary, and Joseph.
“But I have a reservation.”
This stopped her in her tracks.
“Oh… What name?”
She found our reservation in her book and reluctantly pushed a key to us.
There are 22 rooms here. It is almost 7:00 pm. We appear to be some of the only guests. It isn’t that there wasn’t room; there just wasn’t room for us. If we weren’t so tired and it wasn’t so hot, we might have pushed on to Cistierna. We are happy we used Booking.com to make reservations and didn’t have to specify that we were smelly pilgrims.
I’ve learned a lot about hospitality on the Camino. Thankfully, most of it has been really positive. It makes me want to be a better person, one who will take care of the tired and hungry.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 25
- perjantai 11. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 21.29
- ☁️ 75 °F
- Korkeus: 857 m
EspanjaGradefes42°37’18” N 5°13’52” W
Valdore to Gradefes

We’ve known what has been coming for a while: the plains of the Mesetta. But each time we thought we had left the mountains, we turned the corner to find another spectacular scene before us. Early this morning, we started walking alongside and then through the middle of wheat and corn fields. We startled a deer before sunrise and stopped to watch him bound away. We strolled next to a roaring river and passed by a kayakers park that would have been fun to have seen in use.
Before Cistierna, we trekked through an abandoned mining town that was abandoned decades ago. The only occupants now are cows, lots and lots of cows.
At Cistierna, we stopped for breakfast at a cafe, went shopping at a supermercado for our picnic lunch, and ended our time in the town with a second breakfast at the cafe on the other end of the street.
After that first 12 KM, we still had 23 left to get to Gradefes. We now noticed that the mountains were fading into the background as we walked steadily into the plains.
When we finally reached this little town where we will crash in the local albergue for the night, we went first to the bar, because that is where you pick up the key in exchange for €5 a person. We weren’t even charged extra for the use of the washing machine. Everyone in the bar greeted us and we felt welcome in this town. Since there are no restaurants, and the bar doesn't serve food, (there is a restaurant about a mile from us that starts serving dinner at 9 pm), we went to the retirement center to see if they had food left over after feeding their residents. They had already cleaned up the kitchen but eagerly opened it back up for us and made us to-go containers of more food than we could eat, for half of what we would have spent in the restaurant. They even threw in extra servings of rice pudding. We then went to the monastery, not only to see inside but to get our second stamp in our credential for today. A pleasant nun conversed with us through a window as we obtained our ink.
We were glad to get back to the albergue and get off our feet as we walked for over seven hours today. Though hard, it was great to accomplish together knowing it was our last really long day on this Camino.
The second stage of this three-tiered pilgrimage is coming to an end. The last stage will be really different. Not only will our friend Christie be joining us, which changes the dynamics, but our purpose is changing too. Once we leave Leon Tuesday morning, we will be in full strategy mode, putting together next year’s guided pilgrimage for ten women who have gone through breast cancer.
But these last three and a half weeks have been for Bonnie and me. This year our Camino trip hasn’t been about walking to a cathedral, grieving the loss of a friend, or adjusting to a major change of life. We have done those pilgrimages before. This year was about continued, personal growth - putting ourselves in a place to process, to breathe, and to see what comes up with time and forward motion (with a lot of distance and elevation). Today we spent a good portion of our time together talking about those things that have come up, the adjustments we have made during the pilgrimage, and what our strategy is for applying this growth back home.
Bonnie is a good listener and it is easy to be vulnerable with her. It was good to verbalize what I was thinking and feeling and have her process it with me, and, I believe, vice versa. It made me really grateful that I wasn’t walking alone this year. I don't feel undone or afraid. I just feel incredibly privileged to have this time to walk across a country, surrounded by natural beauty and in the company of someone I love.
We also talked about tattoos.Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 25
- perjantai 11. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 21.34
- ☁️ 73 °F
- Korkeus: 857 m
EspanjaGradefes42°37’18” N 5°13’52” W
Valdore to Gradefes, part 2

- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 26
- lauantai 12. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 22.22
- ☁️ 68 °F
- Korkeus: 852 m
EspanjaValdefresno42°33’59” N 5°30’11” W
Gradefes to Arcahueja

We have a lot to be thankful for. Here is a small list, in no particular order or value:
We are only 8 KM outside of León. We will sleep in tomorrow and not leave until the cafe downstairs turns on the espresso machine at 8 AM. Today we walked over a half marathon before any coffee was available. That should have been our last, long stretch without caffeine service, now that we are on the Frances.
Our first cafe con leche was at Cafe Frida, and they had a great mural of Frida Kahlo. We wish the owner had a stamp for our credential that resembled the Mexican painter, but alas, he had none. We settled for getting our first sello of the day at the Casablanca Bar. Unfortunately, the stamp didn’t feature Ingrid or Bogey.
We are grateful for Gronze, the Spanish website that helped us plan our Camino, as well as their app that guided us when there were no arrows available, which on the Vadiniense was quite often. That last Camino was badass. We are a little cooler having completed it.
I’m thankful for the hotel owner in Potes who gave me a book about the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana. For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how to tell him, “No gracias,” that I couldn’t really carry a book with me the rest of my Camino. But I am. I’d like to put together a breakout session for the next American Pilgrims on the Camino gathering that covers the Lebaniego Camino as well as the walk into the Picos National Park. More people should get to experience this incredible pilgrimage.
A big shout out to Lainey and Swawn (YouTube.com/@dayswespend) who walked this route last summer and inspired Bonnie and me to journey over the Picos de Europa. Their Camino videos are full of great information and they are both so positive and fun!
We are thankful for every step we didn’t have to take on pavement or cobblestones.
We love the storks, their poses, their bill-knocking, and nest building.
Bonnie is especially happy for the mountains and the mountains and the mountains.
We are so thankful for the family and friends that love us and support us on these trips.
I am grateful for workmates and bosses at Doctor’s Hospice of Idaho that understand that I need respite time. I know it is inconvenient, but I am a better chaplain and human for it.
I’m thankful for my walking companion and daughter Bonnie. She is tough, resilient, loving, and present.
I’m writing. Each day. I’m taking photos. Each day. This is really, really good for me. It may not be good writing or great photography, but that doesn’t matter. I’m creating, and that is really healthy for me.
Thank you friends for checking in online and following our Camino progress; whether it is because you have purposed to do so, or read an update when the algorithm gods put us in your feed, or you have looked us up when God puts us on your hearts.
As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we are on the outskirts of León. We will arrive before lunch and start to unwind. Our bodies are tired, and they need a break. Our clothes need to be laundered. Some need to be tossed. I’ve been seriously considering going to Decathlon to purchase the next smaller size in these hiking pants. But I made a decision tonight that I’d rather eat my way back into these in the next couple of days in León.
Speaking of eating in León, there wasn’t much in terms of food out where we were staying, so Bonnie and I took a taxi ride into the city (which was very weird to be moving that fast). We found an Indian restaurant with great reviews, and it ended up being owned by the same family of the one we ate at in Lugo last year. Such great food! All those Indian spices just make us happy.
It started raining as we walked back by the cathedral to the agreed-upon pick-up spot for our return taxi. We noted that in the past 3.5 weeks we only had one day of rain on the Camino. We have been blessed with merciful weather. Today was a blue skies and puffy white cloud day (thank you for your good weather vibes, @Nancy).
Sunflowers!
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää
- Näytä matka
- Lisää toivelistallePoista toivelistalta
- Jaa
- Päivä 27
- sunnuntai 13. heinäkuuta 2025 klo 20.17
- ☀️ 79 °F
- Korkeus: 847 m
EspanjaLeón42°35’47” N 5°34’4” W
Arcahueja to Leon

It is Sunday in León.
We walked the last nine kilometers into the city with barely a car on the road. Everything is closed. Everybody is at rest, which is exactly what our plan is today too.
Our hostel is above the famous Barrio Húmedo (wet neighborhood) in León’s historic center, packed with 100 bars and restaurants. When we arrived, it was deserted. At lunch, it was packed. During siesta, it was back to being quiet. We are expecting the crowds again at eight.
There is evidence of the old Roman walls, but they have homes and newer buildings right up next to them.
We found an open cafe for breakfast with wonderful eggs Benedict and double espresso lattes. We will be back again tomorrow.
At lunch, I treated Bonnie to an Asian restaurant called Kamado that I visited on my last trip to this city. They must have remembered me because today they brought me a bib. We loved the food! After those two meals, I don’t think we will want, or need, dinner.
All our clothes are laundered, clean, and smell better. So do we. We met another pilgrim family in the lavandería. They smelled okay too. We will see what happens later this week when the temperature is back in the 90s.
We saved the Gaudí exhibit and the Cathedral tour until tomorrow when Christie is with us. I’ve seen all the stained glass in the morning light, so we plan to visit the Cathedral in the afternoon as it will be lit differently. Bonnie and I did visit the Contemporary Art Museum and enjoyed the exhibits. I looked up the hours to the Museum of León, but they were closed today. They had great reviews, including one about their photography exhibit. I looked closer. It was my review from two years ago.
I’m enjoying watching all the people and sneaking a few photos when I can. This city makes me miss my camera.
We talked to Jamie on the phone. This makes me miss home.
Ultreia et Suseia!Lue lisää