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- Day 26
- Saturday, July 12, 2025 at 10:22 PM
- ☁️ 68 °F
- Altitude: 852 m
SpainValdefresno42°33’59” N 5°30’11” W
Gradefes to Arcahueja

We have a lot to be thankful for. Here is a small list, in no particular order or value:
We are only 8 KM outside of León. We will sleep in tomorrow and not leave until the cafe downstairs turns on the espresso machine at 8 AM. Today we walked over a half marathon before any coffee was available. That should have been our last, long stretch without caffeine service, now that we are on the Frances.
Our first cafe con leche was at Cafe Frida, and they had a great mural of Frida Kahlo. We wish the owner had a stamp for our credential that resembled the Mexican painter, but alas, he had none. We settled for getting our first sello of the day at the Casablanca Bar. Unfortunately, the stamp didn’t feature Ingrid or Bogey.
We are grateful for Gronze, the Spanish website that helped us plan our Camino, as well as their app that guided us when there were no arrows available, which on the Vadiniense was quite often. That last Camino was badass. We are a little cooler having completed it.
I’m thankful for the hotel owner in Potes who gave me a book about the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana. For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how to tell him, “No gracias,” that I couldn’t really carry a book with me the rest of my Camino. But I am. I’d like to put together a breakout session for the next American Pilgrims on the Camino gathering that covers the Lebaniego Camino as well as the walk into the Picos National Park. More people should get to experience this incredible pilgrimage.
A big shout out to Lainey and Swawn (YouTube.com/@dayswespend) who walked this route last summer and inspired Bonnie and me to journey over the Picos de Europa. Their Camino videos are full of great information and they are both so positive and fun!
We are thankful for every step we didn’t have to take on pavement or cobblestones.
We love the storks, their poses, their bill-knocking, and nest building.
Bonnie is especially happy for the mountains and the mountains and the mountains.
We are so thankful for the family and friends that love us and support us on these trips.
I am grateful for workmates and bosses at Doctor’s Hospice of Idaho that understand that I need respite time. I know it is inconvenient, but I am a better chaplain and human for it.
I’m thankful for my walking companion and daughter Bonnie. She is tough, resilient, loving, and present.
I’m writing. Each day. I’m taking photos. Each day. This is really, really good for me. It may not be good writing or great photography, but that doesn’t matter. I’m creating, and that is really healthy for me.
Thank you friends for checking in online and following our Camino progress; whether it is because you have purposed to do so, or read an update when the algorithm gods put us in your feed, or you have looked us up when God puts us on your hearts.
As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we are on the outskirts of León. We will arrive before lunch and start to unwind. Our bodies are tired, and they need a break. Our clothes need to be laundered. Some need to be tossed. I’ve been seriously considering going to Decathlon to purchase the next smaller size in these hiking pants. But I made a decision tonight that I’d rather eat my way back into these in the next couple of days in León.
Speaking of eating in León, there wasn’t much in terms of food out where we were staying, so Bonnie and I took a taxi ride into the city (which was very weird to be moving that fast). We found an Indian restaurant with great reviews, and it ended up being owned by the same family of the one we ate at in Lugo last year. Such great food! All those Indian spices just make us happy.
It started raining as we walked back by the cathedral to the agreed-upon pick-up spot for our return taxi. We noted that in the past 3.5 weeks we only had one day of rain on the Camino. We have been blessed with merciful weather. Today was a blue skies and puffy white cloud day (thank you for your good weather vibes, @Nancy).
Sunflowers!
Ultreia et Suseia!Read more
TravelerYou are an excellent writer and your photography is gorgeous! Thank you for posting. I am living vicariously through your adventures! Buen Camino!
TravelerThank you!